THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

SANTA  BARBARA 

COLLEGE  OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 


MR. AND  MRS.    R.W.    VAUGHAN 


RUWENZORI 


THE  TRANSLATION  FEOM    THE  ITALIAN   HAS  BEEN    MADE  BY 
CAROLINE  DE  FILIPPL   nk'  FITZGERALD. 


THE    ILLUSTRATIONS    ARE    FROM    PHOTOGRAPHS    TAKEN    BY 
VITTORIO  SELLA,   MEMBER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


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RUWENZORI 


AN    ACCOUNT    OF    THE    EXPEDITION 


OF 


H.R.H. 
PRINCE   LUIGI    AMEDEO    OF   SAVOY 

DUKE     OF     THE     ABRUZZI 


FILIPPO    DE    FILIPPE    F.R.G.S. 

With  a    Prekace    ev 

H.R.H. 
THE    DUKE    OF    THE    ABRUZZI 


NEW    YORK 

E.     P.     BUTTON     AND     COMPANY 

29  West   23RD   Street 

190S 


Ill  the  spelling  of  the  native  names  the  usage  established  by  the  Eoyal 
Geographical  Society  has  been  followed. 

The  royalties  on  the  sale  of  this  book  will  be  given  to  a  Fimd  for  the 
Relief  of  Italian  Emigrants. 


C5^  -r-  o .    UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

^T  S^TA  BARBARA  COLLEGE  LIBRARY 


2)  c  b  i  c  a  t  c  t) 

BV  PEBMISSIOX 

TO     HER     MAJESTY 

THE    QUEEN    DOWAGER    OF    ITALY 

MAEaHERITA    DI    SAVOIA. 


P  R  E  F  A  C  E. 


This  book  contains  a  detailed  account 
of  the  expedition  which  I  led  from 
April  to  September  of  1906,  to 
explore  the  snow  range  of  Ruwen- 
zori,  upon  tlie  borders  of  Congo 
and  Uganda,  in  the  centre  of 
Equatorial  Africa. 

The  book  includes  the  data  of 
observations,  and  all  the  facts 
upon  which  the  geographical  and 
scientific  results  of  the  expedition 
are  based.  These  results  I  have 
ali'eady  given  in  outline  in  my  lectures  before  the  Italian 
Geographical  Society  and  the  Royal  Geographical  Society, 
which  were  subsequently  published  in  the  "  Bollettino "  and 
"  The  Geographical  Journal." 

I  had  not  at  my  disposal  the  time  requisite  for  writing 
myself  a  full  account  of  this  joiu'ney.  My  companions  were, 
for  various  reasons,  equally  luiable  to  undertake  the  task. 
Cav.  Filippo  De  Filippi  had  already  published  an  accurate  and 
painstaking  account  of  a  previous  exploration,  in  which  he  had 
been  one  of  my  companions.  It,  therefore,  occurred  to  me  to 
request  him  to  write  the  story  of  the  Ruwenzori  Expedition 
from  oiu"  notes  and  jouinals. 


Preface. 

The  task  was  difficult,  even  with  the  help  of  Cav.  UfF. 
Vittorio  Sella's  splendid  photographs,  which,  in  a  measure, 
filled  out  the  bare  outlines  of  our  diaries.  I,  therefore,  take 
this  opportunity  of  expressing  my  deep  sense  of  obligation  to 
Cav.  Filippo  De  Filippi,  and  of  recording  the  pleasure  given 
me  by  his  acceptance  of  my  proposal. 

To  this  volume,  which  contains  a  narrative  of  the  journey 
and  of  the  actual  exploration  work  of  the  expedition,  together 
with  the  meteorological  and  astronomical  notes,  will  be  added 
a  second  volume,*  containing  the  geological  and  mineralogical 
report  of  Dr.  A.  Roccati,  together  with  reports  upon  the 
zoological  and  botanical  specimens  brought  back  by  us. 

I  must  here  tender  my  thanks  to  all  the  distinguished 
men  of  science  who  have  collaborated  in  the  study  and 
illustration  of  our  collections. 


c^ 


Rome, 

April,   1908. 


*  Published  in  Italian  only — U.  Hoepli,  Milan, 
viii 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

CHAPTER  I. 
The  Discovery  and  previous  Explorations  of  RmvENZORi.         .        1 


CHAPTER  II. 

Preparation  and    Departure  of  the  Expedition    from  Italy. 

From  Naples  to  Entebbe 2.5 

CHAPTER  III. 
Erom  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal 57 

CHAPTER  lY. 
From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — Mobuku  Valley    .        .        .100 

CHAPTER  V. 
Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobuku  Valley 138 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Peaks  of  the  Central  Group •.     165 

CHAPTER  VII. 

FORSLiTION    AND    GENERAL  FEATURES    OF   THE   RlTVENZORI   RANGE       .       193 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
Exploration  of  ISIt.  Speke  and  Mt.  Emin 231 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Further  Ascents  on  Mts.  Stanley,  Luigi  di  Savoia  and  Baker. 

Work  at  Bujongolo 2-1-1 

CHAPTER  X. 

Exploration  of  the  Bujuku  Valley  and  of  Mt.  Gessi.    Return 

OF  THE  Expedition 260 


IX 


Contents. 


APPENDIX  A. 

PAGE 

The   Mountains  of  the  Moon  of  Ptolemy's  Geography  and  the 

KuwENZORi   Range 287 


APPENDIX  B. 

Astronomic,  Geodetic  and  Meteorological  Observations     .  303 

I. — Report  on  Astronomic  Observations       ....     307 

II. — Geodetic  Observations 353 

III. — Report    on   Meteorological   and    Altimetric    Observa- 
tions     361 

APPENDIX  G. 

Contains  a  Summary  of  the  Geological,  Petrographic,  and 
Mineralogical  Observations  which  were  made  by  II.R.H. 
the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi's  Ruwenzori  Expedition,  together 
WITH  A  List  of  the  New  Zoological  and  Botanical  Genera 
AND  Species  collected  in  the  Ruwenzori  Regions  .        .        .     381 

Summary  of  the  Geological  Observations  made  in 
Uganda  and  in  the  Ruwenzori  Range  during  the 
Expedition  of   H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi       .     382 

I.— Uganda 382 

II. — Ruwenzori  Ran(;e 388 

Alphabetic  List  of  the  Minerals  collected  in  the  Ruwenzori 

Range 394 

Zoology,  New   Genera,  Species    and    Sub-species    collected   by 

the  Expedition  of  H.R.II.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  .        .     394 

Summary  of  the  Plants  collected  by  the  Expedition  of  the 

Duke  of  the  Abruzzi   on  the  Ruwenzori  Range  .        .        .     397 

Magnetic  Observations 403 

Ind^x 40& 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Tusks  Confiscated  bj-  the  Government,  Uganda 

Native  Hut  in   Uganda. 

Caravan  on  the  March  . 

Native  Porters,  Uganda 

Porters'  Hut,  Uganda    . 

A    Camp         .... 

Native  Chief  with  his  Family,  Uganda. 

A  Chief's  Daughters  of  Bahima  Stock . 

Native  Market  in  Uganda     . 

Incense  Tree  (?)    • 

Mombasa — Port  Kilindini 

Mombasa — Portuguese  Fort  . 

The  Uganda  Railway    .... 

Sugar-Cane  Vendors       .... 

At  a  Railway  Station   .... 

Port  Florence         ..... 

The   Winifred  alongside  the  Pier  in  Port  Florence 
Natives  going  to  Market,  Kisumu 
A  Shed  in  the  Market  Place,  Kisumu 
Kavirondo  Women         ..... 

Kisumu  Market      ...... 

Kisumu  Market     ...... 

'Within  the  Enclosure  of  the  ^Market,  Kisumu 
Banana  Sellers,  Kisumu         .... 

08'  Rusinga  Island         ..... 

Native  Canoe  with  the  Prow  of  Peace 
Among  the  Sesse  Islands       .... 

Napoleon  Bay,  Lake  Victoria 

Shores  of  Lake  Victoria,  near  Kampala 

Botanical  Gardens,  Entebbe  .... 

Governor's  House,  Entebbe    .... 

xi 


PAGir 

.3 

5 

7 

9 
12 
14 
16 
18 
22 
23 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
37 
38 
39 
41 
42 
43 
45 
46 
48 
49 
51 


Illustrations. 


Market,  Entebbe    ...... 

Market,  Entebbe 

In  the  Coiirt3'ard  of  the  Equatorial  Hotel,  Entebbe 
Native  Huts  and  Plantains   .... 
General  View  of  Entebbe      .... 
Shed  in  the  Market,  Entebbe 

Native  Huts,  Entebbe 

The  Kampala  Eoad,  Entebbe 

Hanging  Nests  on  the  Leaves  of  a  Palm 

A  Road  in  Uganda 

Native  Hut    . 

A  Hilly  Bit  of  Road     . 

Across  the  Marshes 

Papyri  and  Water  Lilies 

Elephant  Grass 

The  Native  Path  . 

In  the  Tropical  Forest 

Between  Swamp  and  Forest 

Plantain  Groves     . 

Baganda  Women  . 

Baganda         ... 

Baganda  Women  . 

Pawpaw  Tree 

Porters'  Huts 

Building  a  Hut 

Visit  of  a  Chief  with  his  Court,  bringing  Presents 

Dancing  in  the  Porter's  Camp 

Wrestling  Match  among  the  Porters     . 

Native  Band  ...... 

Between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal 

Camp  at  Bujongo  ..... 

Camp  at  Katende  ...... 

Ruwenzori  seen  from  Butiti  .... 

Near  Butiti,  with  Ruwenzori  in  the  background 
Forest  between  Butiti  and  Fort  Portal 
The  Caravan  on  the  March  .... 


PAGE 

52 
53 
54 
55 
58 
59 
60 
61 
62 
63 
64 
66 
67 
68 
69 
70 
71 
72 
73 
75 
76 
77 
78 
79 
80 
82 
83 
84 
85 
87 
88 
89 
91 
92 
95 
98 


xn 


Illustrations. 


om  the  Hinia  Valley 
seen  from  the  Low 


On  the  Puljlic  Square,  Fort  Portal 

Native  Hut 

Market,  Fort  Portal      . 
Hills  near  Fort  Portal  . 

Fort  Portal 

King  Kasagama  and  his  Court 

Near  Fort  Portal  .... 

Women  at  Camp  Duwona     . 

Acacias  on  the  Road  between  Duwona  and  Kasongo 

Between  Duwona  and  Kasongo 

Ford  of  Wimi  River 

The  Snow  Peaks  of  Ruwenzori,  seen  fr 

Mt.  Speke   (the  Duwoni  of   Johnston) 

Valley     . 
Ford  of  Mobuku  River 
Ford  of  Mobuku  River 
Ibanda    .... 

The  Portal  Peaks  on  the  way  up  to  Bihunga 
Building   Sheds,    Ibanda 
Hillside,  below   Bihunga 
Bihunga 

Forest  above  Bihunga    . 
Forest  at  the  Mouth  of  the  Mahoma 
Tree-Ferns 
Kichuchu 

Lobelias  in  the  Heath  Forest 
The  Heath  Forest 
Waterfall  at  Buamba     . 
Bujongolo 

The  Kiyanja  of  Johnston  from  Bujongolo 
Upper  Gorge  of  the  Mobuku  Valley    . 
Eastern  Peaks  of  Mt.  Baker,  seen  from  Edward  Peak 
Mt.  Stanley  and  j\lt.  Baker,  taken  from  the  Stairs  Peak  of  Mt. 

di  Savoia 

The  Highest  Peaks  and  Lake  Bujuku,  seen  from  Grauer's  Rock 
Mt.  Baker  (the  Kiyanja  of  Johnston)  seen  from  the  West 


er   Mobuku 


Luis 


PAGE 

101 
103 
103 
104 
105 
107 

loa 

110 
111 
112 
114 
11.5 

116 

117 

118 

120- 

121 

122 

123 

125 

126 

127 

128 

130 

131 

133 

135 

139 

141 

143 

147 

149 
151 
1.53 


Illustrations. 


Bujongolo      .......... 

Heath  Forest  below  Bujongolo 

Mt.  Cagni  seen  from  Bujongolo 

Mt.  Stanley  seen  from  Freshfield's  Col  .... 

Lake  to  the  West  of  Mt.  Baker — Charred  Senecios 

The  Upper  Lake  in  the  Valley  to  the  West  of  Mt.  Baker . 

Head  of  the  Valley  to  the  West  of  Mt.  Baker    . 

Camp  IV — Close  to  the  Elena  Glacier  ..... 

Alexandra  and  Margherita  Peaks  from  the   Stanley  Plateau 

Climbing  the  South-east  Ridge  of  Alexandra  Peak 

Climbing  Alexandra  Peak 

Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks  as  seen  from  the  Stanley  Glacier  . 
Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks  from  the  Ridge  above  Camp  IV    . 

Camp  near  Scott  Elliot's  Pass 

Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  seen  from  the  South  Ridge  of  Edward  Peak 
Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  seen  from  the  South  Ridge  of  Edward  Peak 
Mt.  Stanley  from  the  Edward  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker 

North-west  Shoulder  of  JMargherita  Peak 

Mt.  Stanley  from  the  West,  from  a  photograph  taken  in  the   Butagu 

Valley  by  Dr.  F.  Stuhlmann 

Western  Side  of  Alexandra  Peak 

Moebius  Peak  from  the  West 

The   Foot   of   the  Glaciers  flowing   West   of   Alexandra   and  Moebius 

Peaks     .......... 

Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  seen  from  the  Upper  Butagu  Valley    . 

Savoia  Peak  taken  from  Alexandra  Peak ;  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  in  the 

Background    ......... 

The  Chain  of  Ruwenzori  seen  from  Butiti  after  a  Tele-photograph  by 

V.  Sella 

Senecio  and  Helichrysum  in  the  Upper  Butagu  Valley 
Lobelia  Deckeni,  Senecio  and  Tree-Heaths    .... 

Lobelia  in  Flower 

Senecio  and  Lobelia  Stuhlmanni   .         .         .    »     . 

Camp  IV — Close  to  the  Elena  Glacier 

Mt.  Speke  seen  from  the  Senecio  Forest  at  the  root  of  Scott  Elliot's  Col 
Mt.  Speke  from  the  Stanley  Plateau 


PAGE 

156 
157 
161 
167 
169 
173 
176 
177 
179 
180 
181 
183 
187 
188 
190 
191 
200 
201 

206 

207 

208 

209 
210 

211 

213 
222 

224 
226 
228 
232 
235 
238 


Illustrations. 


Mt.  Emiii  seen  from  the  lolanda  Glacier 
Climbing  the  Alexandra  Peak 
Moebitis  Peak  from  the  South-east  Ridge  of  the 
Savoia,  Elena  and  Moebius  Peaks,  and  Mt.  Liiigi 

the  South-east  Ridge  of  the  Alexandra  Peak 
Fresh  Snow  on  Freshfield's  Pass   . 
Mt.  Stanley  from  Freshfield's  Col 
Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  from  Freshfield's  Col     . 
The  South  Ridge    of    Edward    Peak    and    the    Camp    close 

field's  Pass      ...... 

Porters  in  Camp  at  Ibanda  .... 

The  Bujuku  Valley       ..... 

Camp  IX,  Bujuku  Valley      .... 

Mt.  Gessi  from  the  Edward  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker 
The  Bujuku  Torrent      ..... 

Giant  Tree  in  the  Lower  Bujuku  Valley 
Ibanda  ........ 

Baganda  Village     ...... 

Crater  Lake  Kaitabaroga,  near  Fort  Portal    . 
Back  again  on  the  Shores  of  Lake  Victoria 
Ripon  Falls    ....... 

Head  of  the  Victoria  Nile     .... 


Alexandra  Peak 
di  Savoia  seen  from 


to   Fresh- 


PAGE 

241 
245 
246 

248 
249 
250 
251 

252 
262 
265 
267 
269 
271 
273 
274 
275 
276 
277 
283 
285 


LIST    OF    PLATES. 

Sunset  on  Victoria  Nyanza.     Coloured  Plate,  from  the 

painting  by  A.  Fitzgerald 
Banana  Plantation  and  Hut  near  Fort  Portal. 

The  Tropical  Forest 

From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal.     (Section) 
Wooded  Valley  between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal 
View  between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal.     Panorama 
Papyrus  Swamp  between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal 
View  of  Ruwenzori  from  a  hill  near  Kaibo     . 
Tropical  Forest  near  Fort  Portal    .... 
Nakitawa       ........ 


Frontispiece. 
To  face  page  65 
69 
71 
81 
85 
87 
93 
97 
121 


List  of  Plates. 


The  Heath  Forest 

The  .Mobukii  Kiver  in  the  Heath  Forest 
Flowers  on  the  Terrace  of  IJuamba 

Bakoiijo  Porters 

Panorama  taken  from  Grauer's  Rock,  Mt.  Baker  . 
Ujjper  end  of  the  Molniku  Valley  .... 
Panorama  taken  from  Stairs  Peak,  Ut.  Luigi  di  Savoia 
Bujongolo  .....•■• 
Valley  to  the  West  of  Mt.  Baker  .... 
Valley  to  the  West  of  Mt.  Baker   .... 

The  Highest  Peaks 

Alexandra  Peak  from  the  South,  showing  the  South-East 

Ridge 

Margherita  Peak  from  Alexandra  Peak  . 

Mt.  Stanley 

In  the  Seneeio  Forest     ...... 

Senecio  Forest  to  the  West  of  Freshfield's  Col. 

Mt.  Speke  from  Edward  Peak,  Mt.  Baker 

Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  taken  from  King  Edward's  Peak, 

Mt.  Baker       .... 

Mt.  Cagni 

Lake  Bujuku  and  Mt.  Stanley 
Panorama  taken  from  lolanda  Peak,  Mt, 
Bujuku  Valley        .... 


Gessi 


PAGE 

To  face  page 

125 

)) 

129 

»> 

133 

5> 

141 

1) 

143 

yj 

147 

»» 

153 

j» 

159 

)) 

167 

)) 

171 

)) 

177 

)) 

181 

)) 

185 

K 

201 

)» 

229 

ff 

235 

)> 

239 

n 

247 

J> 

257 

5> 

265 

J> 

269 

)J 

273 

MAPS. 

The  Valley  System  of  the  Ruwenzori  Range  . 
Map  of  Angles  measured  in  the  Ruwenzori  Chain  . 
Route  of  the  Expedition  from  Mombasa  to  Ruwenzori 
The  Peaks,  Passes  and  Glaciers  of  Ruwenzori 
Geological  Map  of  the  Central  Group  of  Ruwenzori 


To  face  page     203 
355 
End  of  Vol. 


CHAPTER    I. 


^< 


The  Discovery  and  previous  Explorations  of  Ruwenzori. 

i 

Stanley's  first  sight  of  the  Snow-peaks — Ruwenzori  and  the  "  Mountains  of  the 
Moon "  of  Ptolemy — Discussions  and  Dissensions  between  Geographers — 
Exploration  of  Stairs,  Stuhlmann  and  Scott  Elliot — Moore  discovers  the 
Glaciers  at  the  head  of  the  Mobuku  Valley — Repeated  attempts  to  climb  the 
Mountains  from  the  Mobuku  Valley — ^Ascent  made  by  David  upon  the 
western  slope — British  Museum  Expedition — First  peaks  ascended — What 
was  known  about  Ruwenzori  in  the  beginning  of  1906. 


On  the  24th  of  May,  1888, 
Henry  Stanley,  in  the  midst  of 
his  longest  and  most  venturesome 
African  journey,  vrhile  crossing  the 
narrow  strip  of  coast  which  forms 
the  south-west  bank  of  La  ke  Albert 
Nyanza,  between  Nsabe  and 
Badzwa,  beheld  for  the  first  time 
the  snowy  peaks  of  Ruwenzori  : 
"  When  about  five  miles  from 
Nsabe  camp,  while  looking  to  the 
south-east  and  meditating  upon 
the  events  of  the  last  month,  my 
eyes  were  attracted  by  a  boy  to  a  mountain,  said  to  be  covered 
with  salt,  and  I  saw  a  peculiar-shaped  cloud  of  a  most  beautiful 
silver  colour  which  assumed  the  proportions  and  appearance  of  a 

1  B 


Chapter  I. 

vast  mountain  covered  ^\'ith  snow.  Following  Its  form  downward, 
I  became  struck  with  the  deep  blue-black  colour  of  its  base,  and 
wondered  if  it  portended  another  tornado  ;  then,  as  the  sight 
descended  to  the  gap  between  the  eastern  and  western  plateaux, 
I  became  for  the  first  time  conscious  that  what  I  gazed  upon  was 
not  the  image  or  semblance  of  a  vast  mountain,  but  the  solid 
substance  of  a  real  one,  with  its  sununit  covered  witli  snow." 

"Ruwenzori"  is  the  one  among  many  native  names  by  which, 
in  Stanley's  opinion,  the  mountain  is  most  widely  known  in  the 
surrounding  region. 

Of  all  tlie  explorers  who  in  the  preceding  twenty  years  had 
travelled  through  these  regions  and  sailed  upon  the  waters  of 
the  lakes  at  the  foot  of  the  chain,  not  one  liad  suspected  the 
near  presence  of  vast  tracts  of  eternal  ice  and  snow  hidden  from 
all  eyes  in  the  impenetrable  cloak  of  cknid  and  mist. 

In  1864,  Sir  Samuel  Baker  had  given  the  name  of  "Blue 
Mountains "  to  the  \ast  shapes  faintly  seen  looming  through  the 
mists  of  tlie  plain  to  the  south  of  the  Albert  Nyanza.  He  did 
not,  however,  form  anv  adec[uate  conception  of  their  real 
proportions. 

Stanlev  himself,  in  the  Deceml)er  of  1875,  when  actually 
encamped  upon  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  chain,  relates,  but 
without  comment,  the  descriptions  given  by  the  natives  of  the 
shining  white  coloiu-  and  intense  cold  of  peaks  which  he  could 
not  see  but  which  were  said  to  be  towering  above  him. 

Sir  Harry  Johnston  mentions  certain  private  letters  written 
in  1876  bv  Romolo  Gessi  during  his  first  complete  exploration  of 
the  shores  of  the  Albert  Nyanza.  In  these  letters  mention  is 
made  of  a  strange  vision  which  the  writer  saw  in  the  sky,  as  if 
of  mountains  covered  with  snow.  Possibly  he  ascribed  this 
vision  to  an  hallucination.      The  fact  remains  that  the  discovery 

2 


The  Discovery  of  liuwenzori. 

of  E.uwenzoi'1  was  reserved  neither  for  liiiii,  noi-  for  Emin  Pasha, 

or  Mason,  Ijoth  of  whom  subsequently  visited  tlie  lake. 


TUSKS   CONFISCATED    BY   THE    GOVERNMENT,    UGANDA. 

Stanley  is  probablv  right  in  attiihuting'  the  extraordinary 
lack  of  atmospheric  ti-ansparency,  which  renders  these  moun- 
tains invisiljle  even  in  fair  weather,  to  vapours  exhaled 
from  the  surrounding  plains  and  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the 
tropical  sun.  Occasionally  a  hreeze  sweeps  away  these  vapours. 
At  such  times,  as  if  by  magic,  the  snow-clad  ranges  loom  into 
sight  only  to  vanish  again  and  leave  the  onlooker  in  doubt  and 
uncertainty  as  to  the  actual  reality  of  the  magnificent  vision 
vouchsafed  to  him. 

The  discovery  of  this  vast  system  of  snow  mountains 
sheddine;  tlieir  watei's  into  lakes,  wlience  one  of  the  greatest 
Nile  ])ranches  takes  its  origin,  finally  brought  to  an  end  that 
quest  after  the  sources  of  tlie  classic  river  whicli  had  played 
so    large  a  part  in   the    liistory  of   geographical    investigation. 

3  B  2 


Chapter  I. 

After  a  lapse  oi'  tweuty-tbiir  centuries  tlie  verse  of  Aeschylus — 
"  Egypt  nurtured  l)v  the  snow  " — once  more  receives  its  literal 
signification.  The  "  ^fountain  of  Silver"  [apyvpow  opos),  the 
source  of  the  Nile,  according  to  Aristotle,  is  at  last  revealed. 
Stranire  indeed  are  the  vicissitudes  of  hmuan  knowledg-e. 

This  classical  traditicni  of  the  Nile  issuing  from  vast  lakes 
fed  by  snowy  mountains  was  tenaciously  preserved  through 
subsequent  history.  We  find  it  repeated  in  the  description 
of  the  "  Mountains  of  the  Moon "  taken  by  Ptolemy,  with 
modifications  of  his  own,  from  the  writings  of  Maiinus  of  Tyre. 
The  same  story  recurs  in  the  writings  and  maps  of  Arab 
geogi'aphers  in  the  Middle  Ages  ;  and  again  in  the  works  of 
Western  European  compilators,  such  as  the  Prior  of  Neuville 
les  Dames  and  Alphonse  de  Saintorge.  In  fact,  notwith- 
standing the  absolute  lack  of  any  confirmation  of  their 
existence,  these  mountains  and  lakes,  indicated  with  imcertain 
forms  and  doubtfid  and  varying  geographical  situation,  never 
wholly  disappeared  from  our  maps  of  Africa  up  to  the  time 
ot  their  actual  discovery. 

The  belief  in  snow-clad  mountains  at  the  sources  of  the  Nile 
had  persisted  with  peculiar  tenacity  among  the  natives  of  the 
East  Coast.  Possibly  it  received  fresh  confirmation  from  time 
to  time  through  news  gathered  from  the  caravans  which  brought 
ivory  and  slaves  from  the  interior.  Burton,  Speke  and  Baker 
heard  it  again  and  again,  and  with  positive  affirmation,  both 
from  the  Arabs  and  from  the  natives  of  Zanzibar. 

The  discovery  of  Mt.  Kenya  and  Mt.  Kilimandjaro  by  the 
German  missionaries  Krapf  and  Rebmann  in  1848-49  seemed 
for  the  time  to  settle  the  question.  These  mountains,  how- 
ever, are  connected  neither  with  the  lakes  nor  with  the  Nile. 
In  18G1  Speke  believed  that  he  had  discovered  the  "  Momitains 

4 


The  Discovery  of  Ruwenzori. 

of  the  Moon"  in  the  volcanic  chain  wliich  stretches  between 
Lake  Kivu  and  Lake  Albert  Edward,  more  especialh'  in 
the     highest     of    the    volcanic     peaks,     Mt.     Nfumbiro ;     hnt 


NATIVE    HUT   IN    UGANDA. 

none  of  these  inonntains  are  covered  with  snow.  Stanley 
had  certainly  far  stronger  grounds  for  liis  opinion  that  the 
"Mountains  of  tlie  Moon"  of  Ptolemy  are  to  lie  identified 
with  Ruwenzori,  which  alone  answers  in  all  essential  points  to 
the  descriptions  of  the  ancient  geograpliers.  It  consists  of  a 
vast  mountain  ranjre  covered  with  everlastiny,'  ice  and  snow  and 
shedding  its  waters  into  the  basin  of  the  Upper  Nile  from 
all  its  slopes.     Rising,  as  it  does,  out  of  the  midst  of  a  tropical 

5 


Chapter  I. 

landscape,  it  forms  a  spectacle  at  once  so  imposing  and  so  un- 
expected as  to  strike  the  imagination  of  those  who  behold  it 
more  forcibly  than  any  other  featiire  of  the  whole  region,  and 
so  impresses  itself  upon  their  memory  as  not  to  he  effaced  by 
any  subsequent  vicissitude  or  experience  of  their  journey. 

The  opinion  of  Stanley,  however,  met  with  numerous 
opponents,  including  a  nmnber  of  competent  geographers. 

The  German  explorer,  Dr.  O.  Baumann,  discovered  the 
sources  of  the  Kagera,  the  greatest  tributary  of  the  Victoria 
Nvanza,  in  the  mountains  of  Mlssossi  ya  Mwesi,  in  Urimdi,  a 
district  situated  to  the  north-east  of  Lake  Tanganika.  These 
he  considered  to  be  the  mountains  mentioned  by  Ptolemy  : 
Misso.ssi  va  Mwesi  does,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  mean  literally 
"  Mountains  of  the  Moon."  The  surrounding  country  is  called 
Charo  cha  Mwesi,  which  means  "  Land  of  the  Moon."  At  the 
same  time  the  Kagera,  \\hich  had  been  called  by  Stanley  the 
AIexandi"a  Nile,  may  certainly  be  comited  as  the  southernmost 
and  one  of  the  principal  sources  of  the  Eastern  Nile. 

In  England  the  theory  of  Dr.  Baumann,  in  its  general 
outline,  has  been  accepted  by  Sir  Clements  Markham.  Neither, 
indeed,  has  failed  to  recognize  the  objection  tliat  the  small 
importance  and  low  altitude  of  the  Missossi  ya  Mwesi  scarcely 
justify  so  far-reaching  a  celebrity.  The  natives  of  the  Unyamwesi 
are  certainly  unconscious  of  the  existence  of  the  "  Mountains 
of  the  Moon  "  in  their  country.  Years  ago,  in  fact,  Speke  heard 
from  them  a  tale  of  a  marvellous  mountain  situated  to  the 
north  of  Kasagwe,  a  region  to  the  west  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza. 
This  mountain  was  said  to  be  so  high  anrl  so  steep  that  no 
one  could  ever  possibly  ascend  it,  and  to  be  rarely  visible 
because  it  soared  up  into  the  clouds  from  which  a  pure  white 
substance  was  wont  to  fall  upon  it. 


The  Discovery  of  Ruwenzori. 

Other  geographers,  such  as  Hans  Meyer  and  Kavensteiu, 
attempted  to  prove  that  Ptolemy  meant  to  indicate  the 
mountains  which  form  and  encircle  tlie  Abyssinian  tableland. 
In  the  "  Proceedings  of  the  Pi,oval  Geographical  Society"  for 
11)01  (p.  513),  may  be  found  an  interesting  discussion  which 
followed  the  lecture  of  H.  Schlichter  on  this  subject. 

The  Italian  geographer  Prof  L.  Hugues  has  contributed  a 
note*  on  tliis  question.  He  has  attempted  to  bring  the  limited 
knowledge  which  was  attainable  in  the  days  of  Ptolemy  as  to 
the  geographical  position  of  both  the  lakes  and  the  mountains 
into  harmonv  with  the  more  precise  information  at  our 
command  at  the  present  day,  by  taking  into  account  errors  in 
the  mensuration  of  longitude  and  latitude  inevitable  at  the 
earlier  period.  The  conclusions  at  which  he  arrives  are 
entirely  in  favour  of  Stanley's  view. 


CAK.W'AN    ox    THE   MARCH. 


*  See  Appendix  A. 

7 


Chapter  I. 

Stuhlmanii,  Scott  Elliot,  Moore,  Johnston  and,  in  fact,  all 
the  others  who  have  visited  and  explored  the  range  of 
Ruwenzori  after  Stanley,  have  accepted  his  interpretation  of 
Ptolemv's  text.  Indeed,  unless  we  admit  that  the  ancient 
geographers  nuist  have  had  in  one  way  or  another  some 
concealed  source  of  information  as  to  tlie  facts,  we  find  our- 
selves under  the  necessitv  of  reoardin^  tliem  as  gifted  with 
prophetic  jjowers.  Be  that  as  it  niay,  the  legend  of  the 
"Mountains  of  the  Moon"  is  a  tale  of  tlie  past,  and 
Ruwenzori,  established  at  last  in  its  own  exact  place  on  the 
map,  known  in  all  the  details  of  its  structure,  measured  in 
every  dimension,  no  longer  runs  the  risk  of  being  lost  from 
the  memoi'v  of  man. 

We  will  now  return  to  the  story  of  its  exploration. 

On  the  1st  of  June,  1888,  after  his  first  sight  of  the  snow-clad 
summits  of  Ruwenzori,  Henry  Stanley  was  forced  to  return  on 
his  track,  and,  re-crossing  the  vast  forest  of  the  Congo,  to  join 
his  rear-guard  camp,  where  one  of  the  ghastliest  tragedies 
recorded  in  the  historv  of  African  ex})loration  had  taken  jilace 
in  his  absence. 

He  did  not  return  to  Ruwenzori  mitil  tlie  next  year,  1889, 
when  he  skirted  the  whole  Avestern  slope  of  the  range.  He 
then  traversed  the  plain  ])etween  Lake  Albert  Edward  and  the 
mountains,  and,  turning  northwards,  followed  their  eastern  slopes 
as  far  as  the  head  of  Lake  Ruisamba.  He  thus  spent  more  than 
three  months,  from  April  to  Julv,  in  the  innnediate  neighbourhood 
of  the  range,  and  saw  the  snowy  peaks  again  and  again. 
Wishino-  to  o-ather  more  accurate  knowledge  of  the  shape  and 
structure  of  these  mountains,  he  dis])atc]ied  Lieutenant 
W.  G.  Stairs  on  a  joiuney  of  exjaloration  among  them. 

Lieutenant  Stairs  left  the  camp  of  Bakokoro,  3,860  feet  above 


The  Discovery  of  Ruwenzoii. 

the  sea-level,  aljout  the  beginning  of  June.  He  followed  one  of 
the  north-western  vallevs  of  the  chain  for  two  days,  steering  for 
two  rockv  peaks  of  a  striking  conical  shape  (Twin  Cones)  wliieh 
had  been  marked  from  a  distance  on  tlie  north-west  extremity  of 
the  range.  He  readied  an  altitude  of  10,677  feet,  about 
1,500  feet  below  the  rocky  peaks.  Here  he  came  in  sight  of  a 
snowv  peak  which  he  estimated  at  10,600  feet,  but  which  was 
not  the  highest  point. 

Lieutenant  Stairs  had  not  an  equipment  sutticient  to 
enable  him  to  remain  several  days  in  the  mountains.  He  was 
therefore  obliged  to  cut  his  exploration  short  and  descend  to 
the  plain.  From  the  appearance  and  shape  of  these  mountains 
lie  thought  it  possible  to  maintain  their  origin  to  be  volcanic. 


XATIVF    1'I)I:TF.T;S,    ITiAXnA. 


Chapter  I. 

Ill  the  mouth  of  December,  1899,  Stiuiley  at  last  finished  liis 
venturesome  journey  and  readied  Zanzibar  with  Emin  Pasha  and 
his  followers.  A  few  months  later,  Emin  Pasha,  at  the  head  of 
a  German  expedition,  set  forth  again  to  return  to  the  etjuatorial 
lakes.  About  the  beginning  of  June,  1891,  he  found  himself  once 
more  on  the  western  slope  of  Kuwenzori,  encamped  at  Karevia, 
near  the  southern  course  of  the  Semliki  (Issango)  i-iver. 

It  was  from  this  encampment,  4,364  feet  of  altitude,  that 
Dr.  F.  Stuhlmann,  one  of  the  members  of  the  expedition,  made  a 
five  days'  excui'sion  up  the  valley  of  Butagu,  one  of  the  largest 
of  the  western  valleys  of  the  chain.  He  reached  an  altitude  of 
13,32G  feet,  not  very  far  from  the  snow,  in  sight  of  two  snowy 
mountains. 

He  was  obliged  to  return,  owing  to  liis  limited  means  of 
transport  and  to  the  sufferings  of  the  natives  from  cold.  A  good 
naturalist,  a  first-rate  explorer  and  a  painstaking  observer, 
Stuhlmann  was  the  first  to  give  an  accurate  description  of  the 
successive  zones  of  vegetation  in  its  varying  forms  at  different 
altitudes.  He  proved  clearly  that  Ruwenzori  is  not  a  single 
mountain,  but  a  real  range.  He  distinguished  four  principal 
groups  to  which  he  gave,  proceeding  from  north  to  south,  the 
names  Kraepelin,  Moebius  (the  highest  peak  called  Kanjangungwe 
by  the  natives).  Semper  (Ngem\vinil)i  of  tlie  natives),  and 
Weismann.  He  was  able  to  photograph  two  of  these  groups 
from  the  upper  Butagu  Valley.  He  also  showed  that  Stairs' 
suggestion  of  a  volcanic  origin  for  the  range  is  without 
foundation.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  he  failed  to  recognize  the 
presence  of  true  glaciers,  but  was  rather  inclined  to  regard  them 
as  mere  accumulations  of  snow. 

Stuhlmann  was  succeeded  in  the  exploration  of  Ruwenzori 
by  the  naturalist  G.  F.  Scott  Elliot  in  the  years  1894-95.      He 

10 


The  Discovery  of  Iiinvenzori. 

made  five  expeditions  bv  various  routes  towards  the  summits, 
through  the  Yeria,  Wimi,  Mobuku,  and  Xyamwamba  Valleys  on 
the  eastern  slope,  and  through  the  Butagu  Valley  on  tlie  western 
slope.  He  pushed  liis  way  up  to  the  lieads  of  the  Yeria  and 
Wimi  Valleys,  and  reached  his  greatest  altitude  (13,000  feet)  in 
the  Butao-u  Vallev. 

Stricken  with  malarial  fever,  lacking  means  of  transport, 
Scott  Elliot  gave  proof  of  admirable  tenacity,  but  was  unaltle 
to  gather  any  data  regarding  the  region  of  the  snows.  His 
most  interesting  observations  are  with  regard  to  traces  of 
ancient  o-lacier  action  in  tlie  valleys  of  Mobuku,  Nvamwamba, 
and  Butagu,  which  prove  tliat  tliey  were  at  one  period 
filled  by  vast  glaciers.  Like  Stuhlmann,  he  excludes  all 
possibilitv  of  a  volcanic  origin  for  these  mountains.  The  most 
important  results  of  Scott  Elliot's  exploration  are  botanical. 

After  Scott  Elliot  we  have  no  finther  record  of  Ruwenznri 
for  five  years,  although  the  period  of  exploration  had  been 
succeeded  in  Uganda  by  the  period  of  European  occupation. 
The  whole  time  and  tlie  entire  energies  of  the  English  military 
and  civil  services  were  required  to  deal  \\ith  serious  difficulties, 
and  with  the  necessity  of  facing  dangerous  complications  which 
seemed  at  times  to  menace  the  very  existence  of  the  newly 
established  Protectorate.  It  was  necessary  to  depose  kings,  and 
to  i)ut  down  revolts  with  such  means,  slender  and  insufficient  at 
best,  as  were  available  from  a  coast  several  months'  journey 
distant. 

Thus  we  reach  1900  without  any  furtlier  addition  to  o\u' 
knowledo-e  of  the  rano-e.  In  the  spring  of  this  vear  C  S.  Moore, 
at  the  head  of  a  scientific  expedition  for  the  purpose  of  studying 
the  fauna  of  the  great  lakes,  reached  the  eastern  slopes  of 
Ruwenzori  with  the  intention  of  attempting  the  ascent. 

11 


Chapter  T. 

He  had  }HU]K>se(l  to  go  up  V)y  tlie  Nyannvaiuba  Valley, 
which,  however,  he  failed  to  reach  owing  to  the  impossibility  of 
fording  the  River  Mohukii,  at   tliat  time  swollen  by  heavy  rains 

and  ([uite  impassable. 


PORTERS     HIT,    UGANDA. 


As  early  as  1894  Captain  (now  General  Sir  Frederick) 
Lugard  had  pointed  ont  to  Scott  Elliot  tlie  Mobuku  Valley  as 
the  best  route  l)v  which  to  reach  the  snow.  C  S.  Moore  now 
started  up  by  this  route,  taking  with  him  a  small  number  of 
Suahili  porters  besides  a  few  natives  of  the  valley.  In  spite  of 
imfavourable  weather,  he  was  able  to  ascend  the  valley  as  far  as 
its  head,  and  discovered  for  the  tirst  time  the  glaciers  which 
encii'cle  its  upper  end.  He  went  up  one  of  these  and  reached 
the  edge  of  the  terminal  ridge,  14,900  feet  above  sea-level. 

C.  S.  Moore  thus  gave  us  the  first  irrefutable  proof  of  the 
existence  of  genuine    glaciers    upon    Ruwenzori.      He    further- 

12 


The  Discovery  of  Ruweiizori. 

more  confirmed  Stiililniauu's  clescrlption  of  the  range,  recognizing 
from  the  east  side  the  same  distribntion  of  the  peaks  Into  four 
principal  groups. 

Some  tiiree  weeks  kiter,  Fergussou,  who  had  left  England 
with  Moore  but  had  been  delayed  by  fever  at  Fort  Gerry  (now 
Fort  Portal),  proceeded  up  the  Mobuku  Valley  and  ascended 
the  a:lacler  to  the  heio-ht  of  14,600  feet. 

Shortlv  after  Fergusson,  Bagge,  who  was  employed  in  the 
Civil  Service  of  the  Toro  district  and  had  already  made  an 
excursion  u|)  the  valley  of  the  Nyamwamba  as  far  as  the  bamboo 
zone,  pushed  up  the  Mol)nku  Valley  and  reached  the  glacier. 
Bagge  had  a  rough  path  cut  by  the  natives  up  the  valley, 
wliich  proved  a  useful  guide  to  subsequent  explorers. 

Sir  Harry  Johnston,  High  Commissioner  of  the  Protectorate, 
accompanied  by  Me.ssrs.  Doggett  and  Vale,  followed  this 
track  in  September  of  the  same  year.  His  choice  of  this 
route  was  determined  partly  by  the  relative  facility  with  which 
explorers  since  Moore  seemed  to  liave  reached  the  glaciers,  and 
partly  by  his  conviction  tliat  tlie  principal  groups  of  the  range 
were  in  the  immediate  neighbnurliood  of  tlie  head  of  the 
Mobuku  Valley.  Sir  Harry  Johnston's  expedition  reached  the 
glacier  and  ascended  to  a  height  of  14,828  feet,  but  was  luiable 
to  reach  the  ridge. 

Johnston  rebaptized  the  peaks  under  the  names  given  them 
by  the  natives  of  those  valleys,  which  were,  of  course,  totally 
different  from  the  names  reported  by  Stuhlmann  from  the  west 
of  the  chain.  Thus,  the  Ngemwindji,  or  Semper  of  Stuhlmann, 
became  Kiyanja,  while  another  peak  visible  from  the  Molniku 
Valley  received  the  name  of  Duwoni.  Johnston  succeeded  in 
taking  good  photographs  of  the  valley,  of  the  Mobuku  Glacier 
and  of  some  peaks.      He  gave  us  also  a  detailed  description  of 

13 


Chapter  I. 

till'  Hora  anil  fauna  of  tlir  nioimtaiu  district.  Like  Scott  Elliot, 
he  noted  traces  of  glacial  action  in  the  Mobuku  Valley,  about 
3,000  feet  below  the  point  where  is  now  the  snout  of  the 
glacier.  Like  all  his  predecessors,  he  complains  of  an  extra- 
ordinary persistence  of  l)a(l  weather. 


A   C.VMP. 


Thus  in  the  year  1900  alone  the  Molniku  Valley  had  been 
explored  by  four  separate  parties. 

Li  August  of  the  following  year,  W.  H.  Wylde  and  Ward 
went  up  the  valley  and  appear  to  have  reached  the  ridge  on  the 
top  of  the  glacier  at  the  same  altitude  which  was  reached  by 
Moore,  about  15,000  feet.  During  the  two  following  years 
we  have  no  further  reports  of  the  Mobxiku  Valley  until  the 
expedition  of  the  Rev.  A.  B.  Fisher,  who,  with  liis  wife,  in 
January,  1903,  arrived  at  the  point  wliich  had  been  reached  by 
Sir  Harry  Johnston. 


14 


The  Discovery  of  Ruwenzori. 

The  geographical  periodical  "Globus,"  published,  in  1904, 
a  brief  notice  of  an  ascent  on  the  chain  of  Ruwenzori  made  in 
April  of  that  year  by  Dr.  J.  J.  David.  He  was  reported  to 
have  reached  an  altitude  of  about  16,400  feet.  Two  years  later 
the  "BoUettino"  of  the  Italian  Geographical  Society  published 
an  article  by  Revelli  on  Dr.  David's  expedition  based  upon  liis 
own  notes.  David  had  chosen  the  route  of  the  Butagu  Valley 
to  the  west  of  the  chain  which  had  not  Ijeen  explored  since 
Scott  Elliot.  Ascending  a  tributary  valley  he  reached  the 
glaciers  in  seven  days.  Through  the  glaciers  he  reached  a  col, 
covered  with  ice,  upon  which  was  a  small  rocky  peak  of  gneiss 
about  150  feet  high.  From  here  he  was  able  to  see  the  valleys 
descending  on  the  opposite  slope  towards  Uganda.  He  was 
stopped  here  by  the  evident  danger  of  proceeding  alone  upon 
the  glacier.  The  altitude  of  the  pass  which  he  had  reached 
{16,400  feet)  seems  to  have  been  ascertained  bv  triangulation. 
The  absolute  Lick  of  more  precise  data  and  of  any  detailed 
account  of  the  loute  which  lie  followed  prevents  us  from 
identifying  the  peak  which  he  ascended.  Probably  David 
might  have  been  able  to  point  out  his  route  upon  one  of  the 
photographs  taken  by  Stuhlmann  in  the  liigher  Butagu  Valley, 
and  reproduced  in  his  book.* 

In  the  course  of  the  same  year.  1904,  M.  T.  Dawe  made  an 
important  botanical  expedition  up  the  Mobuku  Vallev.  This 
exjiedition  was,  however,  without  results  from  the  point  of  view 
of  the  momitaineer. 

During  the  time  wliich  had  now  elapsed  since  the  occupation, 
a  railway  line  had  Ijeen  opened  lietween  Mombasa,  on  the  coast 

*  There  is  the  possibility  that  Da-sad  may  have  reached  the  saddle  between 
the  Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks  of  Mt.  Stanley  (about  15,750  feet),  where  a  rocky 
tooth  would  seem  to  correspond  to  his  description. 

15 


Chapter  I. 

of  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  Port  Florence,  on  the  eastern  l)ank  of 
tlie  Victoria  Nvanza.  Port  Florence  was  in  its  turn  connected 
with  Entebbe,  the  ca])ital  of  Uganda,  by  a  regular  service  of 
steamers.  It  had  tlius  become  possible  to  reach  the  centre  of 
the  Ah'ican  continent  without  ditKcidty,  at  small  expense,  and 
with  an  immense  saving  of  time.  The  country  was  henceforward 
in  a  state  of  peace  and  secm'ity. 


NATIVE   CHIEF   MITH    HIS    FAMILY,    VCANDA. 

After  the  expedition  of  David,  no  explorer  availed  himself  of 
these  favoura])le  conditions  until  the  end  of  the  year  1905,  when 
interest  in  Iluwenzori  seemed  suddenly  to  reawaken.  Thus  it 
happened  that  at  the  very  moment  when  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of 
the  Abruzzi  was  forming  his  plan  for  an  expedition  in  this 
reeion,   and   in  the  beoinnlntr   of  lOOG,    when  he  had  actually 

16 


The  Discovery  of  Ruwenzori. 

taken  sucli  measures  for  carrying  it  into  eftect,  as  collecting' 
material  and  preparing  details  of  equipment,  tlie  range  was 
already  being  attacked  by  determined  mountain  climl^ers  ))ent 
upon  rending  the  veil  of  nivsterv  whicli  liad  so  long  shrouded 
its  secret. 

In  Novemljer,  I'JOo,  for  tlie  first  time  in  the  history  of 
Kuwenzori,  a  party  of  expert  mountaineers,  Douglas  W. 
Freshfield  and  A.  L.  Mumm  with  the  guide  Moritz  Inderbinnen 
of  Zermatt,  arrived  in  tlie  Mobuku  Valley.  They  found  the 
season  especially  unfavom-ai)le.  After  waiting  for  a  long  time 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  they  were  forced,  l)y  iminter- 
ru])ted  rains,  to  abandon  the  undertaking.  Thev  had  succeeded 
in  making  one  attempt,  in  the  course  of  whicli  Mumm  had 
ascended  the  glacier,  but  without  reaching  the  ridge. 

In  January,  1906,  the  Rev.  A.  B.  Fisher,  with  his  courageous 
wife,  went  up  the  Mobuku  Glacier  for  the  second  time.  In 
the  same  year  an  Austrian  mountaineer,  R.  Grauer,  with  two 
English  missionaries,  H.  E.  Maddo.x  and  the  Rev.  H.  W.  Tegart, 
who  during  tlie  preceding  year  had  attained  to  an  altitude 
of  14,000  feet  on  the  Mobuku  Glacier,  climbed  the  high 
terminal  ridge  of  the  \allpv  which  had  not  been  readied  since 
1!)()1.  Thev  ascended  to  the  summit  of  a  small  rockv  |)eak  whicli 
rises  on  a  depression  m  tlie  I'idge  to  a  height  of  15,000  feet 
above  tlie  sea.      This  peak  Grauer  named  after  King  Edward. 

Finally,  in  ( )ctobtn-,  U)()5,  a  scientific  expedition,  sent  out 
by  the  British  Museum  to  study  the  fauna  and  flora  ot 
Ruwenzori,  started  from  London  under  the  direction  of 
H.  B.  Woosnam.  The  other  members  of  this  expedition  were 
G.  Legge,  R.  E.  Dent,  M.  Carruthers  and  A.  F.  R.  Wollaston, 
a  member  of  tlie  Aljiine  (Jlub.  This  expedition  spent  several 
weeks  in  the  Mohiiku  Valley  to  collect  scientific  material,  and 

17  c 


Chapter  I. 

in  the  interval  made  expeilitioiis  up  tlie  <;-laciers  at  tlie  head 
of  the  valley. 

First  Woosnain  alone,  tlien  a  ])artv  consisting  of  Wollaston, 
Woosnani  and  Dent  reached,  in  Febinarv,  of  1906,  the  spur 
of  rock  (Ml  the  lidoe  where  Grauer,  Maddox  and  Teiiart  had 
ffone  in  Jannarv. 

A  few  days  later  Wollaston  and  Woosnani  attempted  to 
scale  the  peak  Axhich  rises  above  the  western  slopes  of  the 
valley  (the  Kiyanja  of  Johnston),  hnt  owing  to  the  dense  fog 
they  were  stopped  on  a  knoh  of  the  ridge  at  an  altitude  of 
1G,125  feet,  a  little  l)el()W  the  actual  peak. 


A  chief's  daughters  of  bahima  stock;. 


18 


The  Disco\ery  of  Ruweuzori. 

( )ii  the  Ist  of  April,  AVuUastDii.  Wonsiiam  and  C'aniitliers, 
still  ])iir.sued  by  bad  weather,  ascended  the  rocks  beside  the 
Mobuku  Glacier  and  reached  a  rockv  i)eak  15,898  feet  high, 
which  rises  to  the  north-east  of  the  valley,  and  which  they 
believed  to  be  the  Dnwnni  of  .Ii>hnst()n. 

Two  days  later,  the  same  party  repeated  the  ascent  of  the 
rocky  knol)  on  the  ridge  of  Kivanja,  and  the  reading  of  the 
boiling-])oint  thermometer  gave  them  this  time  a  somewliat 
higher  altitude  (16,379  feet). 

The  Jjersistent  bad  weather  which  ]iam})ered  them  on  all 
these  expeditions  barely  allo\\'pd  them  to  perceive  tliat  other 
peaks  of  the  chain  rose  np  towards  the  north-Avest,  and  that 
they  seemed  higher  than  those  which  tliev  had  themselves 
ascended. 

Before  the  departure  of  the  Italian  expedition,  onlv 
vague  and  inaccurate  reports  of  these  ascents  had  come 
from  Uganda.  Nor  had  any  precise  and  direct  intelligence 
been  received  from  the  mendjers  of  the  British  Museum 
Expedition. 

To  ensure  a  clear  imderstanding  of  the  facts.  I  have  made 
out  a  tal)le  of  all  the  explorations  of  Iluwenzori.  whicli  preceded 
the  expedition  of  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi.  In  this 
table  I  have  given  the  altitudes  as  reported  by  each  writer. 
They  are  to  be  taken  as  approximate  only,  becaiise  none 
of  them  are  drawn  from  a  series  of  observations  caixied 
out  \\ith  the  precautions  and  tiie  corrections  necessary  to  an 
exact  result.  It  is  possible  that,  in  addition  to  the  expeditions 
which  I  have  recoriled,  others  mriv  have  been  made  by  English 
residents  in  the  protectorate.  (.)f  any  such  1  am  ignorant,  as 
no  account   of  them    has   been   published. 

19  c  2 


Chapter  T. 


EXI'LORATIONS    OF   THE    RuWEXZORI    EaNGE   FROM    ITS    DiSCOVEIlY, 

1888,  rp  TO  Ai'KiL,  1906. 


Date. 


June,  1889 

1891 
„      1895 


Mar., 
April, 
May, 
Sept., 


1900 


Explorers. 

Koitte  followed. 

Point  readied. 

Height, 
feet. 

W.  G.  Stnir.s 

1 

;  Russirnhi  (?) 
Valley 

— 

10,677 

F.  Stnliliii.'iini 

Butagu  \'. 

— 

l.S,.32G 

G.  F.  Scott  Elliot 

Yeria  V. 

_ 

_ 

Wimi  V. 

— 

— 

Mobuku  V. 



— 

Nyamwaiiiha  V. 

— 

— 

Butagu  V. 

— 

13,000 

Stephen  Baggc     ... 

Nyamwanilia  V. 

Bamboo  Zone  ... 

— 

C.  S.  Moore 

MohnkiiV.       ... 

Terminal  crest... 

U,900 

Fergusson 

S.  Bagge  ... 

Sir  H.  Johnston, 
W.  G.  Goggett, 
and  Wallis^ale 


1901 


W.  H.  Wvlrte,  and 
Ward 


Aug., 
Jan., 
Ai)iil,  1 904  I  J.  J.  David 


1 90:? 


Kev.  A.  B.  Fisher, 
and  Mrs.  Fisher 


Mobnku  (ilacier      14,600 


14,828 


W.  T.  Dawe 


l'.)0.j    H.  P:.  Maddo.x-.and 
Rev.      H.      W. 

Tetrart 


Piutaiiu  Y. 


.^^)lmku  Y. 


Nov.,  190.^)    1).  AY.    Fre.shfield,  '  Moln.kn  Y. 
and  A.  L.  Munini 


Terminal  crest.. 


Mobuku  Glacier 


Col  on  the  top 
of  the  water- 
slied  (?) 

Base  of  the  Mo- 
buku Glacier 

Mobnku  Glacier 


14,900 


ir,,400(?) 


14,000 


20 


The  Discovery  of  Ruwenzori. 


Date. 

Kxploiers. 

Route  followed. 

Point  reached. 

neii;ht, 
feet. 

Jan.,    1906 

Rev.  A.  B.  Fisher, 
and  ^Irs.  Fisher 

.Mnliuku  Valley 

iMdliiikii  Glacier 

— 

„      1906 

R.  Cirauer,   H.    E. 
Maddox,        and 
H.  W.  Tegart 

)j 

Terminal     ridge 
(King     Ed- 
ward's Rock) 

15,000 

Ffb..    1906    H.  B.  AVoosuam  ... 

)) 

») 

)) 

>:            »» 

A.  F.K.Wollaston, 
H.  B.  A\'oosnam, 
and  R.  E.  Dent 

n 

)) 

)) 

?»            M 

A.    F.    Wollaston, 
and  H.  B.  Woos- 
nam 

?) 

Knoll      on      the 
ridge    of    Ki- 
yanja 

16,125 

April,  1906 

The     same,      with 
M.  Carruthers 

?) 

Peak     on    N.E. 
side     of     the 
valley  believed 
to       be      the 
Duwoni        of 
Johnston 

15,893 

The  same  party    ... 

)j 

Knob     on     the 
ridge    of    Ki- 
yanja 

16,379 

As  may  be  seen  hy  this  table,  the  Mobuku  Valley  was  the 
route  chosen  bv  the  greatest  iiuinbfr  dt"  tlie  expeditious.  By 
this  route  the  liiuh  terminal  ridii-e  had  been  reached  three  times. 
By  this  route  Wollaston  and  his  companions  had  succeeded  in 
ascending  two  peaks  of  the  chain,  (ine  of  which  was  estimated 
at  over  16,000  feet  high.  It  would  appear  that  Dr.  David  must 
have  reached  a  still  higher  point  by  the  western  slopes  ;  but  as 
I  liave  already  menti(.ined,  tlie  accounts  of  iiis  expedition,  which 
aie  at  our  disposal,  are  so  vague  as  to  render  it  impossible  to 
identifv  the  col  whlcli  he  ascended. 


21 


('liaj)ter  I. 


XATIYK    MAilKET    IN    VCANIiA. 

Certainly  no  one  of  the  forermmeis  of  the  Dvike  of  the 
Ahruzzi  had  succeeded  in  actually  expl(irin<;-  the  chain,  tliat  is  to 
say,  in  obtaining  the  comprehensive  kntrodedge  requisite  in 
order  to  describe  the  general  formation  of  the  line  of  watershed, 
the  con  figuration  of  the  mountains,  the  relative  heiii'ht  of  the 
(litferent  peaks,  their  connection  witli  the  several  valleys,  and 
the  extent  and  piosition  of  the  glaciers. 

The  chief  explorers  had  obseryed  that  the  snow-peaks  fall 
into  four  distinct  groups.  It  was  not  known.  howe\"er.  wliether 
these  groups  were  coiniected  l)y  high  ridges  or  (li\'ided  by  deep 
^•alleys. 

In  the  absence  of  systematic  exploration  it  was  impossible  to 
bring  into  relation  to  one  another  the  different  descriptions  of 
peaks  as  seen  from  diyerse  points.  The  confusion  between  the 
several  names  given  to  them  increased  the  difficulty  of  comparing 
the  dit!'erent  reports.      In  addition  to  all  tliis,  it  liad  been  given 

•2-2 


The  Discovery  of  IJuwenzori. 

to  only  a  verv  few,  on  rare  occasions  and  t'rom  a  great  distance, 
actuallv  to  liave  sight  of  the  whole  eliain. 


IXCEXSE   TREE  (?) 


Under  these  circumstances,  tlie  \ie\\s  of  travellers  as  to  the 
height  of  tlie  principal  peaks,  tlie  e.xtension  of  the  glaciers,  and 
the.  general  features  of  the  range  were  widely  divergent  and 
hased  upon  scant v  foinidations.  These  vie\\'s  were  either 
derived  fi\)ni  a  fleeting  visi(jn  of  far-off  mountains  in  great  part 
hidden  hv  lower  buttresses  of  the  cham.  or  else  based  upon 
knowledge  of  one  single  valley  whose  surrounding  barrier  of 
ridges  hid  from  sight  all  the  greater  and  more  important  features 


of  the  range. 


23 


Chapter  I. 

Tims  it  came  alxmt  that  tlie  estimated  altitude  of  the 
hiij-hest  peaks  varied  hetweeii  15,000  and  ahove  18,000  feet. 
The  only  tnistworthv  measurement  was  that  derixed  tVdm 
triangulatiou  applied  to  the  peak  which  appeared  to  l)e  the 
highest.  The  triangulatiou  was  taken  from  various  points  to 
the  south-east  of  this  peak  by  Lieutenant  Behrens  of  the  Auglo- 
Gei-man  Boundary  Conunission.  The  calculations  based  upon 
this  triangulatiou  gave  a  height  of  16,757  feet.  Colonel  C. 
Delme  Badclirte,  however,  who  was  at  the  head  of  this  Com- 
mission, noted  the  po.ssibility  of  higher  peaks  existing  further 
northward  and  not  visible  from  the  point  of  observation. 

The  chain  of  Ruwenzori,  without  doubt  the  most  important 
grovip  of  mountanis  and  glaciers  in  Africa,  and  the  one  mystery 
still  unexplored  with  regard  to  the  question  of  the  sources  of 
the  Nile,  promised  a  fertile  tield  for  research.  The  arduous 
character  of  the  undertaking  and  the  imcertaintv  as  to  what 
obstacles  might  be  encountered  were  calculated  rather  to 
attract  than  to  dissuade  so  ardent  an  explorer  and  so  keen  a 
climber  as  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi. 


24 


CHAPTER   IT. 

Preparation  and  Departure  of  the  Expedition  from  Italy. 
From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 


Choice  of  Season — Objects  of  the  Expedition — Organization  of  the  Expedi- 
tion— Departure  from  Naples — Mombasa — Lieutenant  E.  AVinspeare  falls  ill — 
The  Uganda  Railway — The  Tableland  of  Athi — Kift  Valley — Port  Florence — 
Kisumu  Market — On  the  Winifred — The  Gulf  of  Kavirondo — Smiset  on 
Lake  Victoria — Steaming  upon  the  Equator — The  Islands — Sleeping  Sickness — 
The  Archipelago  of  Sesse — Arrival  at  Entebbe. 


Of   all    the    difficulties    with    which 

most    of    the    predecessors    of    the 

Duke    of    the     Ahruzzl     had      had 

to    contend    in    the    exploration    of 

Kuwenzori,   the    gravest    had    heen 

tlie    obstinate    bad     weather,     the 

nearly    incessant    rain,    and,    in    the 

brief     intervals,     the     dense     mist 

which    shrouded    the   whole  region. 

These  untoward    conditions  gave   the   utmost    importance  to 

the    decision    as    to    which    season    seemed    likely    to    be    the 

least  unfavourable.       Judging  indeed  by  the  reports  of  former 

expeditions  which  had   set  forth    in   nearly  every  month   of  the 

25 


Chapter  11. 

VL'ur,  it  seemed  that   one  .siug'lt'   rainy  season    reiyuetl  supreme 
amomr  the  mountains  without  auv  hi^eak  of  fair  weather. 


MOMBASA — I'dKT    Kn.lMUM. 


The  fact  is  that  the  great  mountain  range,  rising  like  an 
island  from  the  vast  marshy  plains  of  Uganda  and  the 
boundless  forest  of  the  Congo,  l)ecomes  a  centre  of  attraction 
ft)r  the  mass  of  vapours  sucked  up  by  the  tropical  sun,  which, 
condensing  around  the  frozen  peaks,  form  a  permanent  veil  of  fog 
and  cloutl.  Thus  it  lias  come  ai)Out  that  many  a  traveller  has 
sjient  months  and  months  in  the  immediate  neighlxiurliood 
of  the  chain  without  once  having  sight  nf  the  peaks,  or,  at 
best,  fugitive  glimpses  oidy. 

Stairs  and  Stuhlmann  in  June,  and  David  in  April  apj)ear  to 
have  found  climatic  conditions  slightly  more  toleral)le  than  the 
other  explorers.  Wollaston,  however,  had  very  l)ad  luck  in 
April.      Sir  Heniy  Stanley  writes  in  May  that  he  saw  the  snow 

26 


From  Xaples  to  Entebbe. 

peaks  uncovered  "  fVequentlv,  almost  dailv.'  <  >ii  t\iv  otlier  hand, 
Sir  Harry  Johnston  cites  the  local  residents  to  tlie  effect  that 
the  hest  months  ai'e  November  and  I)t^'eeml)er.  Freshfield,  on 
tlie  contraiy,  encoinitered  tlie  verv  worst  weather  in  these 
months. 

Accoinits  iiiven  hv  tlie  missionaries  residinti'  in  tlie  district 
of  Toro.  at  the  foot  of  the  cliain.  ajipeaivd  to  concur  with 
Sir  William  Garstin's  report  on  the  basin  of  the  Upper  Nile  in 
admitting  the  rains  to  be  somewhat  less  fre(|nent  in  Januarv  and 
February,  and  in  .June  and  .July,  althonnh  the  atmosphere  upon 
the  mountains  remained  gloomy  e\e'n  ihniiii;'  those  months.      The 


MOMBASA — PORTVGUESE   FORT. 

t'Xperiences  rep()rted  by  pioneers  were  not  in  agreement  with 
these  forecasts  which,  however,  it  seemed  better  to  accept,  as 
formino-   the   only    l)asis    for   a    decision.       The    Duke    therefore 


Chapter  11. 

arranged  to    leave  Italy    in   the   spring  iu    order    to    reach    tin- 
mountains  by  the  beginning  of  June. 

The  expedition  was  accordingly  eipiipped  in  the  early  nidnths 
of  190().  Care  was  taken  to  enable  it  to  reap  the  utmost  iirntit 
from  the  exceptional  opportunities  for  scientitic  investigation 
offered  bv  a  journev  among  mountains  still  almnst  \niknM\\n.  and 


THE    UG.VXDA    r>AILWAY. 

situated  in  peculiar  conditions  in  the  centre  of  a  continent  where 
much  still  remains  to  be  discovered. 

The  main  object  of  the  expedition  was  of  couise  geogra])hical 
in  tlie  strict  sense  of  the  word  ;  that  is,  to  clear  up  the 
topography  of  the  chain  and  ascertain  the  heights  of  the 
moimtains.  This  work  was  to  be  com])leted  l)y  observations 
on  ])hysical  geography,  meteorology  and  magnetism. 

In  connection  with  these  aims  it  was  important  to  illustrate 

28 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

iunjilv  bv  })li(>togi-aphy  the  regions  traversed.  Next  in  nrder 
came  theological  and  (jlfxciological  research,  inclndino-  niineraloov. 
Lastly,  there  was  every  reason  to  expect  that  in  the  vet  unex- 
ploi-ed  valleys  and  nioiuitain  slopes  interesting  additions  would 
he  tuund  to  our  knowledge  of  the  fauna  and  flora  of"  Ruwenzori. 
Witli  a  view  to  carrying  out  this  plan  of  research,  the 
L)uke  of  the  Al)ruzzl  selected  as  companions  on  this  occasion 
Commander  Umberto  (_'agni,  who  had  taken  part  in  botli  of 
his  previous  expeditions,  and  liis  aide-de-camp.  Lieutenant 
Edoardo  Winspeare,  to  assist  in  the  topographical  work  and 
tlie  observations  connected  with  pliysical  geography.  The 
photography  was  entrusted  to  Cav.  Uff.  Vittorio  Sella,  wlio 
hail  already  accompanied  H.K.H.  in  the  ascent  of  Mt.  St.  Elias. 
I)r.  Achille  Cavalli  Molinelli,  R.N.,  who  had  taken  part  in  the 
Duke's  Arctic  Expedition  of  1900,  was  once  more  chcseu  as 
medical  attendant  to  the  party,  and  was  also  to  assist 
Dr.    Alessandro    Roccati    in    the    collection    of    zoological    and 


SUGAlt-CANE   VENDORS. 


botanical  specimens.       Dr.  Roccati    was   furthermore    specially 
entrusted  with  the  ffeoloo-ical  and  mineralog-ical  researches. 

29 


Cha])tev  11. 

It  would  l)i>  a  waste  of  Axords  to  discuss  the  neeessitv  i>t 
taking"  Alpine  guides  on  an  expedition  of  which  chnihini;' 
was  to  form  the  essential  feature.  Furthermore,  as  there 
was    every    reason     to    expect     that,     in     the     conrse     of    the 


AT   A    r.AU.WAY   STATIOX. 


exploration  of  a  niomitain  ranye  whose  sunnnits  had  lieen 
estimated  hv  previt)vis  travellers  at  heights  varying  from 
16,000  to  over  20,000  feet,  prolonged  sojourns  above  the  snow- 
limit  would  he  necessary,  the  expedition  had  to  he  fm-nished 
with  the  needful  ecjuipment  for  glacier  camps,  more  or  less 
on  the  lines  followed  in  tlie  ascent  of  ^It.  St.  Ellas  in  Alaska. 
This  involved  the  necessity  of  taking  out  European  jiorters  as 
well  as  guides,  for  it  was  impossible  to  count  upon  the 
services  of  the  natives  beyond  tlie  foot  of  tlie  glaciers. 

The  guides  chosen  for  the  expedition  w^ere  Joseph  Petigax, 
the  intelligent  and  devoted  companion  of  the  Duke  in  the  Alps, 
in  Alaska,  and  on  the  Polar  Expedition,  and  Cesar  ( )llier. 
Both  of  these  guides,  as  well  as  the  porters,  Joseph  Brocherel 
and  Laurent  Petigax,  were   from   Courmayeur,   in    the    Valley 

30 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

of  Aosta.  Oilier  and  Bioclierel  liad  alreadv  o'liided  the 
Mackiuder-Haiisburg  Expedition  to  Mount  Kenya  (East  Africa) 
in  1899.  There  was  also  Enninio  Botta,  of  Blella,  the  assistant 
photographer  of  Sella,  who  had  had  experience  of  rouoh  life 
and  exploration  in  the  Caucasus,  in  Alaska  and  in  tlie  Hiinalava. 
L-astly  there  was  the  cook,  Igino  Igini,  of  Acquapendente,  \v\n> 
had  passed  an  Arctic  winter  in  tlie  Dukes  service  in  the  Bay 
of  Teplitz. 

I  will  not  describe  at  length  tlie  preparation  nf  the 
equipment,  to  wliich  tlie  Prince  attended  with  tlie  same 
scnipuLms  care  for  detail  which  liad  so  mueli  contributed  to 
the  success  of  his  former  undertakings.  It  was  especially 
ditKcult  and  complicated  on  this  occasion,  owing  to  the 
necessity  of   meeting  the   letjuirements   liotb  of   a  long  march 


I'l  iKT    FLOKENX'E. 


across  trt)pical  regions,  and  of  a  prolonged  sojourn  among  ice 
and  snow. 

Everything  was  ready  liy  the  beginning  of  April,  and  on  tlie 

31 


Chapter  II. 

evening  of  the    IGtli   tlie  whole   party  set  out   from  Naples  on 
board  the  German  liner  Biirgermeister  Ijounil  for  East   Africa. 


THK    "WINIFRED       ALONGSIDE   THE    PIEK    IN    roi;T    Fl.UltE.NCE. 


Tiie  distance  from  Naples  to  Mombasa,  situated  on  tlie  East 
Coast  a  little  over  four  degrees  south  of  the  Equatoi-,  is  about 
4,100  miles.  The  steamers  usually  take  seventeen  days  on  the 
voyage,  with  brief  stops  at  Port  Said,  Suez,  Aden,  and  Jibuti. 

Africa  as  seen  from  the  Red  Sea  i.s  far  from  attractive.  The 
coast  is  low  and  sandv.  ilat  or  bounded  by  dunes.  The  hills  are 
barren  and  naked,  the  comitrv  baked  bv  tlie  sun,  desolate  and 
sterile.  The  i)orts  upon  the  liigli  road  of  the  great  trade  lines, 
present  a  profoundly  depressing  spectacle.  Arabs,  Turks,  and 
negroes  in  rags  and  squaloi-,  \\itli  swarms  of  crippled,  diseased, 
and  leprous  })eggars  combine  to  form  a  population  of  countless 
races,  poisoned  and  deteriorated  jjhysically  and  morallv  bv 
sudden  contact  Avith  a  civilization  too  widely  dilierent  from  their 
own.  The  wliite  mans  highly  complicated  and  subtle  civil 
organization,  tlie  growtli  of  an  immeasm-ablv  long  period, 
(hning  wliicii  individual  development  has  kept  pace  with  the 
evolution   of  tlie   liody   politic,   has   lieen  .suddenly   thrust    with 

32 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

disastrous  results  upon  races  undeveloped  and  unprepared  for  its 
reception. 

The  voyage  was  most  prosperous,  with  calm  sea  and  fine 
weather  which  changed  onlv  toward  the  end.  Professor  Koch 
was  among  the  passengers,  and  the  monotony  of  the  voyage  was 
thus  pleasantly  broken  for  the  Duke  and  his  companions  by  talk 
al)out  Equatorial  Africa,  whither  Koch  was  returning  to  proceed 
with  his  studies  on  the  sleeping  sickness,  that  gliastlv  scourge 
whicli  has  in  a  few  years  nearly  depopulated  vast  districts 
around  the  great  lakes. 

The  last  days  of  the  jovu-ney  were  clouded  l)v  the  illness 
of  Lieutenant  Winspeare.  High  fever  developed  and  it  soon 
became     manifest     tliat     it     would     be     impossi])le    for    him    to 


NATIVES    GOING   TO   MARKET,    KISUMU. 


accompany  the  expedition  across  the  unhealthy  region  between 
the  coast  and  the  mountains,  which  is  often  fatal  even  to  those 
who  undertake  the  journey  in  a  perfect  condition  of  health. 


33 


Chapter  II. 

Mombasa  is  situated  upon  an  island  surnnuided  by  a  steep 
coast  of  coral  formation,  and  covered  with  palms.  This  island 
lies   in   a    bav   forming-   two   sheltered    channels,    of  which    the 


r'^ 

•  ■''afi!fc\^5'!^ 

up 

ife  WBI^'*" 

^'^ 

™  f^» 

A    SHED    IN    THE   MAr>KET    PLACE,    KISL'MU. 

easternmost,  known  as  Port  Mombasa,  is  narrow  and  difficult 
of  navigation,  and  suited  onlv  to  the  small  craft  which 
trade  along  the  coast,  while  the  other,  known  as  Port  Kilindini, 
is  capacious  and  convenient,  and  here  the  English,  French, 
German,  and  Austrian  liners  ride  at  anchor.  The  Biiiycrmeister 
entered  tliis  port  on  the  morning  of  3rd  May. 

Concessions  made  by  the  British  authorities  with  regard  to 
customs  and  transport,  and  their  courteous  assistance,  togetlier 
with  that  of  the  few  Italian  residents,  facilitated  the  landing  of 
tlie  etpiipment. 

Mombasa,  like  the  other  cities  of  this  coast,  was  founded 
about  the  year  1000  by  Arabs  and  Persians.  Coins,  inscriptions, 
and  architectural  fragments  record  their  occupation. 

34 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

The  island  upon  wliicli  the  city  is  built  is  known  in  tlie 
native  language  as  Kisiwa  niwita,  or  "  Island  of  War,"  a  name 
which  agrees  with  its  history,  wliicli  is  entirely  made  up  of 
warlike  vicissitudes.  Mombasa  is  the  best  port  on  the  whole 
east  coast  of  Africa,  and  was  a  valuable  station  on  the  old 
trade  route  for  India  before  the  Suez  Canal.  For  these  reasons 
it  was  for  centuries  one  of  the  most  eagerly  sought  positions 
and  one  of  those  most  persistently  disputed  between  the  Arabs, 
Portuguese,  and  Turks,  who  lield  it  alternately.  When  tlie 
Portuguese  domination  came  to  an  end  in   172'J,  Mombasa  was 


KAVIKUNDi)    WOMEN'. 

governed  for  over  a  century  by  Ai'abs  of  the  family  of  Mazrui. 
under  the  nominal  suzerainty  of  the  Imans  of  ( Jman.  When 
the  latter   transported   their  capital  from  Maskat   to   Zanzibar, 

35  T)  -2 


Chapter  II. 

they  drove  out   the   Maznil   from   Mombasa   and   re-established 
their  own  elective  domination  tliere  In  1837. 

The  Portuguese  domination  is  recorded  by  the  ancient  fort, 
a  massive  edifice  Ijuilt  ttiwanls  the  end  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  several  times  dismantled,  but  which  still  stands  and 
bears  cut  in  the  stone  the  Christian  symbol  "  I.H.S.,"  together 
witli  the  eai^des  of  the  Austro-Spanisji  dynasty  which  governed 
Portugal  in  1635,  when  the  fort  was  restored.  Tt  now  contains 
the  prisons  and  a  military  store-house. 

After  1848,  English  and  German  geographical  exploring 
expeditions  followed  one  another.  In  their  wake  were  formed 
colonial  trading  companies,  which  established  themselves  on  the 
coast  and  penetrated  the  country  little  by  little,  gradually 
obtaininsf  concessions  from  tlie  Sultanate  of  Zanzibar  or  throuirh 
treatv  with  native  chiefs.  Anglican  and  Catholic  missionaries 
next  made  their  way  still  further  into  the  interior,  where  they 
had  been  preceded  by  the  Mohammedans.  In  consequence, 
religious  wars  lacerated  Uganda  for  many  years.  In  1890, 
Germany  and  England  established  by  treaty  their  respective 
zones  of  influence.  Three  years  later,  the  Imperial  Government 
of  Great  Britain  took  over  the  protectorate,  and  since  then  has 
])ushed  the  occupation  up  to  the  boundaries  of  the  Congo 
State. 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  May,  Lieutenant  Winspeare 
was  carried  to  the  hospital,  which  stands  on  a  healthy,  airy, 
and  |ileasant  site  overlooking  the  ocean  and  the  picturesque 
Portuguese  fort.  The  grey  sky  and  fine  rain  seemed  to  fit  the 
depression  which  all  felt  at  having  to  leave  a  comrade  behind 
at  the  very  outset  of  the  undertaking.  Lieutenant  Winspeare 
recovered  sufficiently  to  leave  Mombasa  to  retm-n  to  Europe  on 
the  12th  of  May. 

36 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

As  Is  well  known,  Momljasa  is  now  connected  with  Lake 
Victoria  by  a  railway  whicli  runs  uorth-w'est  from  the  coast  in  a 
direction    nearly  ])arallel  to  tiie  Ano-lo-Gennan  boundary,    and 


KISUMU    MARKET. 


touches  the  lake  at  Port  Florence  at  the  head  of  tlie  Bay  of 
Kavirondo,  almost  upon  tlie  equator. 

At  eleven  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  May,  the 
Italian  expedition  left  Mombasa  by  the  railway,  which  traverses 
regions  completely  unknown  less  than  thirty  years  ago. 

The  distance  from  the  east  coast  to  Lake  Victoria  is 
584  miles.  At  the  present  day  this  (hstance  is  covered  in  a 
couple  of  days  without  the  least  fatigue,  comfortably  seated  in 
the  little  narrow-gauge  railway  carriages  which  are  arranged 
inside  like  those  on  oiu*  own  Sardinian  railways.  Only  a  few 
years  ago  several  months  of  difficult  and  dangerous  travel 
among  warlike  tribes,  over  wretched  tracks,  in  an  unfavourable 
climate  and  with  all  the  complications,   obstacles  and  expense 

37 


Chapter  II. 

of  ;i  numerous  car;ivan  of  poiteis  were  required  to  eo\er   this 
ground. 

The  construction  of  this  railway  was  a  truly  great  work, 
owini^-  t()  the  serious  obstacles  which  liad  to  be  overcome.  It 
stands  as  a  witness  to  splendid  perseverance  and  resolution  in 
an  incessant  struggle  for  si.x;  years  against  the  gravest  difficulties. 
Vast  tracts  of  tlie  countrv  are  absolutely  lacking  in  water  or 
I'esources,  and,  in  fact,  practically  a  desert.  A  great  part  of  the 
way  passes  over  mountains  wliere  the  line  rises  to  a  height 
of  7,700  feet,  descends  to  G,000,  and  mounts  again  to  8, ."500, 
only  to  drop  down  to  3,700  on  the  shore  of  the  lake. 


KlSUjrU    MARKET. 


No  help  was  iorthcoming  iiom  the  natives,  mere  naked 
savages,  devoid  of  industry  or  skill,  incapable  of  work  in  any 
shape   whatsoever.      It  was  necessary  to  transport  an  armv  of 

38 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

20,00U  labuurers  and  ui-tisans  from  India,  tu  feed,  lodge  and 
clothe  them,  and  to  supply  them  with  the  necessary  implements. 
Evervthing  had  to  bf  brought  out  either  from  England  or  from 
India,  thus  necessitating  as  great  forethought  and  as  complete 
organization  as  are  required  for  a  military  campaign.  In  addition 
to  all  this,  owing  to  the  enormous  difficulty  of  tran-sport  in 
a  countrv  where  the  tsetse-fly  makes  the  use  of  beasts  of 
burden  impossible,  the  work  of  cutting  and  preparing  the  line 
could  only  proceed  a  very  short  distance  in  advance  of  that 
of  laying  the  rails.  Some  of  the  districts  traversed  were 
unhealthy.  At  times  epidemics  prevailed.  The  men  were 
tormented  Ijy  divers  kinds  of  parasitic  insects.  Lions  made 
numerous  victims  and  struck  terror  into  tlie  workmen. 

The    vmdertakina:    was    commenced     in     1895,    before    the 
completion  of  the    contpiest    of   Uganda.      In    the    very   midst 


WITHIN    THE   E.NXLOSURE   OF   THE   M.VKKET,    KISUMU. 

of  the  work  in  1897,  the  colony  ran  a  serious  risk  through 
mutiny  among  the  Sudanese  troops  and  the  rebellion  of  the 
Kings  of  Uganda  and  Unyoro,  instigated  by  the  Mohammedan 

39 


Chapter  IT. 

party.      Yet     in    tlit-    tliiicl     year     after     its     iiiaiiguratioii,    the 
Uganda  RaihAay  counted  179,000  passengers. 

A  European,  landed  for  the  first  time  in  Africa,  must 
experience  a  strange  sensation  on  finding  himself  suddenly 
transported  hv  railway  into  the  very  midst  of  a  landscape, 
where  every  featm-e,  people,  animals  and  })lants  unite  to  form  the 
picture  which  he  had  so  often  attempted  to  create  by  imagination. 

Immediately  after  crossing  the  bridge  that  joins  Mombasa 
to  the  continent,  the  railway  begins  its  ascent  to  the  tableland, 
passing  first  through  fields  of  mango,  cocoaiiut,  banana  and  all 
the  ])eautiful  vegetation  of  the  coast  zone  ;  next,  through  the 
midulating  and  bare  plains  of  the  Tarn  desert,  where  thorny 
bushes  and  a  few  euphorbias  are  the  only  plants  ;  then  once 
more  through  a  fertile  country  among  flowering  fields  and 
woodlands. 

The  stations,  placed  at  intervals  of  20  miles  from  one 
another,  consist  each  of  a  little  wooden  hut,  beside  a  shed 
standing  alone  in  the  wilderness.  Every  100  miles  is  a  central 
station.  Here  the  natives  collect  in  numbers  from  the 
neighboiu'ing  villages  to  sell  sugar-cane  and  bananas  to  the 
third-class  passengers. 

The  train  continues  to  climb  ])y  a  tjentle  grade,  and  the 
snowy  peaks  of  Kilimandjaro  become  visible  to  the  south.  The 
landscape  is  monotonous,  and  the  coimtrv  infested  by  the 
tsetse-fl.y.  A  little  further  on,  for  reasons  imknown  to  us, 
the  dangerous  insect  disappears,  and  a  veritable  Eden  opens  to 
the  view  of  the  traveller.  This  is  the  Tableland  of  Athi,  the 
famous  game  preserve  of  the  Government,  upon  whose  rich 
pastures,  dotted  with  umlirella  acacias,  graze  peaceably,  almost 
witliout  fear  of  the  train,  A\-hole  herds  of  zebra,  buftalo,  onu, 
antelope,  and  gazelle.     Giraffes,  too,  may  be  seen  peepmg  timidly 

40 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

from  behind  the  groups  of  trees,  or  ostriches  driven  into  swift 
flight  by  the  noise  of  the  passing  train  ;  while  now  and  again 
the  traveller  mav  be  so  lucky  as  to  behold   a  lion   saiuiteriuu 


BANANA    SELLERS,    KISIMU. 


across  the  plain,  less  startled  perhaps  than  the  onlookers,   who 
gaze  astounded  u])on  the  extraordinary  sight. 

About  half-way  on  tlie  journey  stands  Nairobi,  a  flourishing 
little  town,  thanks  to  the  healthy  climate  and  the  fertility  of  the 
soil.  Presently  the  country  assumes  a  mountainous  character, 
and  the  line  climbs  steep  ridges  clad  with  luxmiant  forests  of 
juniper  and  other  evergreens,  or  penetrates  into  narrow  silent 
valleys  to  reach  at  last  the  suuunit  of  the  heights  which  form 
the  eastern  clift'  of  the  Rift  Valley,  that  vast  entrenchment 
which  winds  through  liigh  plateaux  between  Lakes  Rukwa  and 
Nyassa  to  the  south-west,  and  the  Gulfs  of  Tajui'ra  and  of  Aden 

-tl 


Chapter  II. 

to  the  north-east.  Tlie  vailwav  desceiid.s  nearly  2,UU0  feet  to 
reach  the  hottoni  of  tliis  valley,  which  is  about  30  miles  wide, 
and  is  dotted  with  tiny  volcanoes,  some  active,  others  extinct. 
Lakes  and  ponds  of  sweet  oi-  salt  \\ater  swarm  with  every 
species  of  aquatic  liinl,  and  the  ahuiidant  water-courses  make 
this  one  of  the  most  fertile  regions  in  Africa,  as  well  as  one  of 
the  most  famous  hunting  groinids. 

After  Nairobi  the  line  crosses  districts  inhabited  l)y  the 
Wa-Kikuyu,  agricidtural  and  sedentary  tribes  ;  and  by  the 
Masai,  nomads  and  herdsmen,  great  breeders  of  cattle  and  Ixild 
warriors,  who  stopped  the  progress  of  many  an  explorer  of  old. 
The  Masai  as  a  race  are  finelv  proportioned,  witli  a  jnoud,  fierce 


OFF    RUSIXGA    ISLAM). 

mien  and  rather  regular  features,  except  the  ears,  which  are 
unrecognizable,  so  deformed  are  they  by  absurd  and  voluminous 
ornaments.      The  women  wear   also   heavy   long   copper   spirals 

42 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

wound    around    their    neck,    arms  and    le^s.        Tlieir    clothing 

consists  of   a    mantle    of   stuft*   or  ot    skms    stitched    together, 

tixed  upon  one  shoulder  after  the  fashion  of  a  toga-,  or  around 
the  chest  under  the  arms. 


NATIVE   CAXOE   ^^•IT1I    TIIK    I'linw    OF    PEACE. 

After  passing  through  a  portion  of  tliis  valley,  and  close  to 
several  little  lakes  set  in  an  enchanting  landscape,  the  railway 
proceeds  to  ascend  the  opposite  forest-clad  slope  to  a  height  of 
8,-SOO  feet,  wlience  it  again  descends  from  valley  to  valley, 
throuiih  "Toves  of  acacias,  hananas  and  ijalms,  to  the  level 
grassy  shores  of  Lake  Victoria.  The  train  makes  straight  for 
the  pier  of  Port  Florence. 

While  the  goods  were  Ijeing  carried  on  to  the  steamer  there 
was  time  to  pay  a  short  visit  to  the  market  of  Kisumu.  Here 
the   natives  assemble    in   ureat   numbers  from  the  neip'hbourino; 

43 


Cliapter   II. 

villages,  mere  groups  of  huts  surro\inded  by  a  hedge.  They 
belong  to  the  tribe  of  Kaviroudo,  which  was  formerly  one  of  the 
most  powerful  and  one  of  the  wealthiest  tribes  around  the 
Victoria  Nyanza.  The  crowds  of  men  and  women  come  across 
tlif  level  country,  carrying  on  their  heads  baskets  woven  with 
great  art  out  of  grasses.  The  young  people  of  both  classes  go 
completely  naked  until  marriage  ;  after  marriage  they  wear  a 
scrap  of  goat-skin  over  tlie  hips,  rather  as  a  synil)()l  of  the 
conjugal  state  than  as  a  garment.  They  are  renowned  for 
thfir  modestv  and  for  tlielr  morality,  wliich  contrasts  with  the 
dissolute  tribes  in  the  neighbourhood,  although  the  latter  are 
clothed.  The  Kavirondo  are  sober,  gentle,  peaceable  and 
sociable.  Sir  Harry  Johnston  regards  them  as  the  most  moral 
people  of  Central  Africa. 

The  native  costume  is  unfortunately  doomed  to  rapid  dis- 
appearance. Here,  as  everywhere  else,  civilization,  intolerant 
of  all  forms,  aspects  or  traditions  of  life  that  differ  from  its 
own,  is  swiftly  introducing  that  monotonous  uniformity  which 
tends  to  turn  the  whole  Avorld  into  one  people.  It  can  scarcely 
be  hoped  that  Kisumu,  situated  as  it  is  at  the  termitnis  of  a 
railwav.  will  long  preserve  its  distinctive  character. 

Clear  indications  of  a  rapid  change  are  already  visible. 
Mino-lincr  with  the  naked  natives  are  many  partially  or  even 
wholly  clad  in  garments  of  white,  striped,  or  gaily  printed 
cottons,  over  which  they  often  wear  some  hideous  European 
garment,  such  as  a  waistcoat,  a  jacket,  or  a  tail  coat, 
witliout  the  least  consciousness  of  their  grotesque  and  absiu'd 
appearance. 

The  market  is  held  in  the  open  air  or  under  sheds  erected  on 
purpose.  It  consists  mainly  of  small  traffic  in  dried  fish,  sweet 
potatoes,    grain    and    bananas.      Tlie    buyers    stand    in    groups 

U 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

around  the  ss^llers,  who  crouch  or  sit  on  the  ground  heside  the 
baskets  of  every  conceivable  shape  which  contain  their  wares. 
Men  and  women  smoke  the  short  straight  pipes  of  the  country. 
Others  circulate  hitlier  and  thither  with  that  buoyant  and 
elastic  tread,  like  the  gait  of  a  wild  animal,  which  comes  from 
the  habit  of  moving  without  the  impediment  of  clothes.  The 
women  wear  a  string  of  beads  aroinid  their  waist,  from  which  a 
sort  of  tail  of  woven  fibres  hangs  down  behind.  The  men  wear 
necklaces  of  glass  beads,  with  Inacelets  of  iron  on  their  wrists 
and  their  ankles.  Tlic  iinxle  of  dressing  tlie  hair  is  frequently 
fantastic  and  enibelllshtMl  bv  feathers,  lilp}>opotamus  teeth, 
etc.,  etc. 


AMi.iXC;   THE   SESSE    1SL.\ND.S. 


The  current  coin,  as  througliout  Eastern  Africa,  is  the  rupee, 
wortli  about  l.v.  4(/.  The  use  of  cowries  for  currency  persists 
only  in  those  forms  of  trade  wliicli  recpiire  sulxlivision  to  an 
infinitesimallv  low  value. 


45 


Chapter  II. 

The  steainslii])  Winifrerf,  witli  its  twin,  the  SiJ>i/I.  ])erfoniis 
a  veunilar  service  between  tlu-  h;al)(>tn-s  of  Lake  Victoria.  The 
trade  increased  so  rapidly  that  a  tliird  steamship  was  lannt-hed 
in  1907,  and  a  fourth  is  ah-eady  in  construction. 

Port  Florence  is  situated  in  the  little  bay  of  Ugowe,  at  tlie 
eastern  extremity  of  the  (lulf  of  Kavn-ondo,  oj)posite  to  and  a, 
little  hi!j,hei-  than  Kisnuni,  which  is  on  tlie  other  side  of  the  hay. 

The  Lxulf  of  Kavu'oiido  runs  inland  to  a  distance  of  about 
45  miles,  wliile  in  some  places  its  width  scarcely  reaches  3  miles. 


NAPOLEON    ]!AY,    TAKE    VICTORIA. 


Its  outlet  into  the  lake  is  narrow  and  almost  closed  by  islands. 
The  water  of  the  gnlf  is  yellow,  dirtv,  and  stagnant,  nor  is 
the  least  trace  of  any  current  j)erce})tible.      It  is  dotted  with 

46 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

floating  islands  formed  hv  tangled  masses  of  aquatic  plants,  upon 
which  germinate  and  grow  the  papyi'us,  nympheea  and  other 
species,  which  afibi'd  shelter  to  myriads  of  aquatic  birds. 

The  north  coast  of  the  gulf  forms  a  level  plain.  On  tlie 
south  side,  at  a  short  distance  from  the  shore,  a  series  of 
volcanic  peaks,  more  or  less  rounded  on  tlie  top,  rise  gradually 
into  a  chain  of  wild  mountains,  culminating  in  a  jagged  ridge, 
overtopped  by  a  high  and  fissured  cone  nearly  4,000  feet  above 
the  lake. 

Navigation  on  the  Victoi'ia  Nyanza  ceases  with  nightfall. 
On  the  evening  of  the  6th  of  Mav  accordingly  the  Wmifred, 
whicli  had  started  at  half-past  two  in  the  afternoon,  cast  anchor 
near  to  the  Island  of  Rusinga  where  she  was  to  pass  the  niglit, 
at  the  point  where  the  Gulf  of  Kavirondo  opens  into  the  lake. 
Tlie  steamei-  was  immediately  surroimded  by  native  canoes. 
These  are  lartre  boats  of  slender  form,  carrying  twenty  rowers 
or  more,  not  roughly  hollowed  out  of  tree-trunks,  l)ut  liuilt 
regularly  from  the  keel  u})ward  with  boards  held  together  by 
fibre  cords  and  the  interstices  caulked  with  fibre  and  resinous 
gums.  The  prow  is  armed  with  a  long  sharp  point,  covered  at 
ordinary  times  by  the  "  prow  of  peace,"  the  extremity  of  which 
is  turned  vertically  upward  and  is  frequently  adorned  with 
feathers,  horns  of  animals,  etc. 

The  evening;  \vas  now  closing  in.  The  slender  canoes  were 
leaving  the  sides  of  the  Winifred.  The  fine  nude  torsos  of  tlie 
native  oarsmen  strained  every  muscle  to  the  rhythmical  stroke. 
The  sharp  click  of  the  oars  on  the  rowlocks  was  already  dying 
(lut  in  the  distance.  Tlie  waves  broke  with  a  gentle  murmur  on 
the  .shore  of  the  island.  In  the  shallow  water  the  hippopotami 
lifted  tlieir  ungainly  heads  from  among  the  reeds,  while  flights  of 
birds  sought  their  roosting-places  on  the  scattered  rocks  with 

47 


Chapter  TI. 

slirill  cries.  The  sua  was  setting  in  a  halo  of  fiery  douds.  The 
last  rays  lit  up  the  nnfaniiliar  scenery  where  the  shadows  of 
night  increased  the  si-iisi-  of  surrounding  mystery. 


SHOr.ES   OF    I.AKK    Nlt'TolUA,    XKAK    KAMPALA. 


Little  l)v  little  the  colour  of  tiie  skv  passed  from  red  and 
purple  to  colder  hues  and  tlu'ongh  svdatler  tones.  Soon  clouds 
and  water  and  islands  seemed  to  minule  and  \anish  in  the 
twilight  wliich  was  spreading  swiftly  over  tlie  surface  of  the 
lake. 

For  hundreds  and  lumdn^ls  of  miles  on  every  side  stretched 
the  vast  regions  of  Central  Africa,  unknoA\'n  up  till  yesterday, 
inhahited  Iw  that  indiappy  race  which  has  survived  a  martyrdom 
of  centuries,  crushed  under  its  fearful  past  of  slavery,  blood- 
thirsty rulers  and  nuu-derous  wars.      To-day  this  era  of  violence 

48 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

lias  come  to  an  end  or  is  on  the  point  of  ending.  The  European, 
who  for  years  past  had  Ijoiiyht  ivory  and  slaves  fi'om  the 
infamous  Arab  merchant,  is  now  endeavoiiring  to  atone  for  the 
past  and  hopes  to  bestow  a  future  of  peace  and  prosperity  upon 
the  black  by  means  of  Christianity  and  civil  organization. 
England  has  led  the  way  in  this  heavy  and  laborious  task,  just 
as  she  had  already  taken  upon  herself  the  duty  of  routing 
out  slavery,  in   the    struggle    slie  has   carried    on   by  sea    and 


BOTANICAL    GARDENS,    ENTEBBE. 


land  practically  single  -  handed  for  eighty  years.  The  goal, 
however,  is  still  very  far  distant.  Vast  regions  are  wholly 
unexplored  and    out  of  all  European    control.     Elsewhere  the 

49  E 


Chapter  II. 

inferiority  and  weakness  of  the  negro  are  too  strong  a 
temptation  to  his  economic  exploitation.  In  many  places  a 
state  of  social  security  appears  to  have  bred  sloth  and 
dissoluteness  among  the  natives,  together  with  intemperance 
and  lack  of  self-control,  while  every  species  of  disease  devastates 
the  wretched  and  degenei'ate  population.  The  civilized  nations 
have  but  their  own  love  of  justice  from  which  to  draw  the 
strength  and  consistency  of  purpose  needful  to  carry  on 
without  hesitation  a  liumauitarian  work  wliich  demands 
disinterestedness  and  self-denial,  o'ifts  unfortunately  rare  in 
social  aggTegates. 

On  the  morning  of  the  7tli  of  May,  by  daybreak,  the 
Winifred  proceeded  on  her  way,  no  longer  in  the  muddy 
and  colourless  Gulf  of  Kavirondo-,  but  in  the  open  lake, 
whose  waters  are  limpid  and  transparent,  of  a  rich  colour 
between  emerald  and  blue,  and  as  pure  as  crystal.  A  few 
hours  after  leaving  the  shore  the  land  fades  out  of  sight, 
giving  the  illusion  of  being  on  the  high  sea.  The  Victoria 
Nyanza  is,  in  fact,  surpassed  in  size  only  by  Lake  Superior  in 
North  America,  and  is  so  vast  that  it  is  possible  to  voyage  along 
or  across  it  for  more  than  200  miles  without  seeing  land.  It 
is  like  the  sea,  too,  in  its  sudden  and  dangerous  storms  which 
raise  up  waves  as  high  as  those  of  the  ocean. 

The  hydrographic  survey  of  the  shore  was  onlv  finished 
last  year,  1907.  The  shore  line  measures  3,200  miles  and  the 
survey  occupied  Captain  B.  Whitehouse  seven  years.  The 
centre  of  the  lake  is  still  in  great  part  unexplored  and  gives 
rise  to  numerous  legends  which  are  current  in  the  country 
about  islands  inbabited  Ijy  caimlbals,  ships  swallowed  by 
wbirl])ools,  monsters  which  inhahit  miexplored  abysses,  and 
other  such  matters. 

50 


From  Naples  to  Entebbe. 

Even  when  out  of  sight  of  laud  the  voyage  is  uever 
monotonous.  The  aspect  of  the  sky  varies  unceasingly.  Vapovu-s 
and  clouds  perpetually  form,  and  dissolve,  or  gather  into  dark 


GOVERNORS    HOUSE,    ENTEBBE. 


storms,  while  the  Avater,  reflecting  their  changes  in  endless 
variety  of  colour  and  tone,  presents  a  spectacle  which  is  never 
wearisome.  Flights  of  swallows  pass  through  the  air.  Swarms 
of  minute  gnats  dance  on  the  surface  of  the  water  like  a 
light  mist.  These  are  the  only  tokens  that  land  is  not  really 
far  oft'. 

The  course  of  the  steamers  follows  the  equator,  roughly 
speaking,  and  crosses  the  northern  extremity  of  the  lake  from 
east  to  west,  steering:  clear  of  the  chain  of  islands  which  lie 
along  the  coast.  The.se  islands  form  a  breakwater,  sheltering 
a  wide  and  practically  continuous  channel  where  canoes  and 
small  sailing  craft  can  navigate  in  safety.  They  vary  in  size 
from  mere  rocks  just  rising  above  the  water,  and  whitened  by 
the  deposit  of  aquatic  birds,  to  islands  so  vast  as  to  form 
a    small    region    in    themselves,   clad   with    dense    forests,    girt 

51  E  2 


Chapter  II. 

about  Avitli  iirei;ul;ir  and  deejjly  indented  coasts,  crowned  with 
mountains  attaining  to  a  height  of  2,000  feet  above  the  surface 
of  the  lake,  and  inhabited  by  tribes  which  seem  ahiiost  to  have 
acquired  special  characteristics  in  their  long  separation  from 
the  mainland. 

The  most  important  and  the  greatest  of  all  is  the  Island  of 
Buvuma,  one  of  the  iironii  which  crowds  around  the  entrance  to 
Gulf  Napoleon,  and  masks  tlie  exit  of  the  Nile  from  tlie  Victoria 
Nyanza.  Buvuma  was  formerly  inhabited  by  a  wari-ior  tribe 
A\lnch,  relvino-  upon  a  strong  fleet,  defended  its  independence 
with  great  valour  against  the  poA\-erful  kings  of  Uganda. 

The  sleeping  sickness  has  turned  into  vast  graveyards  the 
greater    nmnber    of  the    beaiitiful    and    fertile    islands    of    the 


MAIIKET,    ENTEBBE. 

archipelago.  After  depopulating  whole  districts  of  the  Congo,  it 
appeared  in  Uganda  between  1900  and  1902  and  has  spread 
further  and  further,  following  the  main  routes  of  conununication, 
invading  step  by  step  the  territories  of  the  Baganda,  Basoga  and 

52 


From  Xaples  to  Entebbe. 

Kaviromlo,  and  luaking  gigantic  inroads  even  to  the  point  of 
40,000  victims  in  one  year.  The  sleeping  sickness  is  especially- 
fatal  to  men  in   the  prime  of  life,  and   hence  whole  villages  and 


MARKET,    ENTKBBE. 


islands  may  he  found  tenanted  by  women  and  children  who  alone 
have  siu'vived. 

The  British  Museum  Expedition  mentioned  in  the  preceding 
chapter,  found  in  the  district  of  Maniema,  south  of  Kuwenzori, 
a  multitude  of  natives  stricken  with  the  sickness  and  di'iven  out 
from  their  villages,  only  to  wander  hither  and  thither  in  the 
country  and  die,  untended,  by  thousands. 

Hospitals  have  been  started  and  are  increasing  in  number. 
Attempts  are  made  to  organize  helji  and  to  encoiu'age  emigi'ation 
from  the  infected  districts  towards  those  which  are  still  healthy, 
but  the  means  are  utterly  inadequate  to  gi-apple  with  the 
swiftness  and  the  activity  of  this  fearful  plague. 

Sleeping  sickness  is  caused  by  a  parasite,  a  trypanosoma, 
discovered  by  Dr.  Aldo  Castellani  in  the   brain   of  patients  who 

53 


Chapter  II. 

have  (lied  of  the  iiifW-tioii.  Tliis  tiypanosoma  is  intiuchiced  into 
the  system  through  the  sting  of  a  tsetse-fly,  the  Glossina 
palpalis  (Col.  Sir  D.  Bruce). 

Occasionally  the  disease  breaks  out  in  the  form  of  acute 
mania  ;  at  other  times  its  development  is  slow  and  insidious, 
with  only  a  slight  change  in  the  appearance  of  the  patient  ; 
presently  vertigo  makes  its  appeai'ance,  with  headaclie  and  swell- 
ing of  the  lymphatic  glands  of  the  neck.  At  last  come  trembling, 
somnolence,  a  quick  pulse  and  an  apathy  which  increases  until 
it  reaches  the  point  of  torpor  or  coma.  No  really  sure  remedy 
is  known.  Sundry  arsenical  preparations  appear  to  be  eflicacious, 
one  of  them,  atoxil,  has  recently  given  results  which  are  rather 
more  encouraging,  but  it  is  still  uncertain  as  to  whether  a  real 
cure  can  be  expected. 


IN    THE    COURTYARD    OF   THE    Eyl  ATOKIAL   HOTEL,    ENTEBBE. 

54 


From  Xaples  to  Entebbe. 

Oil  approaching  the  north-west  corner  of  the  lake,  the 
steamer  enters  a  channel  between  the  Sesse  Islands  and  the 
coast.     The  Ai'chipelago  of  Sesse,  where  concessions  of  land  have 


NATIVE   HUTS   AND    PLANTAINS. 

been  granted  to  Italian  companies  for  the  cultivation  of  coffee 
and  the  collection  of  rubber,  is  the  jewel  of  the  Victoria 
Nyaiiza.  Luxuriant  forests  cover  the  great  islands  down  to  the 
very  brink  of  the  lake,  where  the  foliase  is  mirrored  in  the 
limpid  waters.  You  w(nild  esteem  it  an  eartlilv  })aradise,  yet 
tliat  charming  scene  conceals  unspeakable  desolation.  The  last 
forlorn  remnants  of  the  inhabitants,  decimated  l)v  the  dire 
disease,  live  mourning  for  their  dailv  liereavements  and  dreading 
their  impending  late. 

The  Winifred,  soon  after  passing  the  entrance  to  Murchison 
Bay,  entered  the  Bay  of  EnteVjbe  and  came  alongside  the  pier 
about  3.30  p.m..  May  7th. 

The  exjDedition  had  now  reached  the  end  of  civilized  means 
of  communication,  after  travelling  4,750  miles  in  twenty-one  days. 

55 


Chapter  11. 

Tlie  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  was  received  on  lauding 
by  the  High  Commissioner  of  the  Protectorate  of  Uganda, 
Mr.  Hesketh  Bell,*  who  offered  him  hospitality  iu  liis  own 
house,  together  with  Commander  Cagni.  The  other  members 
of  the  expedition  were  entertained  by  Messrs.  G.  F.  M.  Ennis 
and  W.  M.  Carter,  both  judges  of  tlie  High  Court  of  Uganda, 
and  by  Major  L.  C.  E.  Wyndham.  The  guides  were  put  up 
at  the  Equatorial  Hotel,  kept  by  an  Italian,  Signore  Berti. 


*  In  October,   1907   the  High  Commissioner  of  the  Protectorate  received 
the  title  of  "  Governor." 

56 


CHAPTER  III. 
From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

Eiitelibe  the  Capital  of  the  Protectorate —The  Six  Hills  of  Kampala — 
H.H.  Daiuli  Chwa,  Kaliaka  of  Uganda — The  Missions — Commander  Cagni's 
Illness  —  Equipment  —  Formation  of  Caravan  —  Departure  from  Entebbe — 
General  Characteristics  of  the  Country  Traversed  —  Baganda  Villages — 
Climate — Baganda  and  Suahili  Porters — Encampments — Visits  of  Chieftains  — 
Exchange  of  Presents — The  Camp  of  the  Blacks — Mitiana — Lake  Isolt — The 
Usjanda-Toro  Frontier — First  sight  of  Puwenzori — Butiti — King  Kasagama — 
Arrival  at  Fort  Portal. 


Entebbe,  or  Port  Alice,  founded 
1)V  Sir  Gerald  Portal  barely 
tifteeu  years  ago,  is  the  political 
and  administrative  capital  of  the 
Uganda  Protectorate.  The  Pro- 
tectorate  includes  much  more  than 
the  old  kingdom  of  Uganda,  having 
been  enlarged  by  the  addition  of 
the  kingdoms  of  Toro,  Unyoro  and 
Ankole,  which  form  a  semi-circle 
to  the  west  and  south  of  Uganda 
pro|)er.  To  these  we  must  add  the 
district  to  the  east  of  Lake  Kioga  and  around  the  gi'eat 
extinct  volcano  Elgon,  as  well  as  the  vast  regions  known  as 
the  "  Nile  Province  "  and  the  "  Rudolf  Province  "  to  tlie  north. 


Chapter  III. 

The  town  is  situated  iqjon  two  hills  at  the  extremity  of  a 
peninsula  formed  In*  two  arms  of  the  lake.  The  streets  are  wide 
and  lined  with  houses,  built  according  to  the  usage  of  the 
tropics,  with  wide  verandas  surroimded  by  gardens  full  ot 
flowers.  Tlie  site  Is  enchanting,  overlooking  the  great  lake, 
dotted  \\  itii  picturesque  islands  ;  the  wire  netting,  however, 
over  windows,  verandas  and  doors,  tells  its  own  storv  of 
malaria. 


GENERAL    A'UvW    OF   ENTEBBE. 


There  is  an  liotel,  there  are  Protestant  and  C'atliolic 
Churclies,  there  are  three  hospitals,  sevei'al  conunercial  firms 
(among  others  a  branch  of  the  "Italian  Colonial  Society" 
established  in  Zanzibar),  and  sundrv  shops  and  stores  kept  by 
Indians  and  Goanese. 

Along  the  shore  of  the  lake  stretches  a  considerable 
botanical    garden,  whicli     contains    a    collection    of    the     flora 

58 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

of  the  region  as  well  as  experimental  cultivation  of  exotic 
plants,  such  as  European  vegetables,  flowers  and  fruits, 
coffee,  tea,  cotton  and  even  vines.  Many  of  these  are 
already  cultivated  widely  and  with  good  results  in  the 
Protectorate. 

At  the  northern  end  of  the  town  is  the  public  market, 
the  habitiial  liaunt  of  the  natives  who  congregate  in  great 
numbers  around  Entebbe  hoping  to  get  a  jol)  or  an  engagement 
as  caravan  porters. 


.SHED    I.N    Tin-:    Jl.VnKET,    EXTEUBE. 


The  native  villaa;e,  numlierino-  some  hundred  huts  in  all, 
lies  further  inland,  among  jilantations  of  bananas,  fields  of 
maize  and  lofty  trees. 

A  fine  and  well-kept  road  leads  fi-oni  Entebbe  to  Mengo 
or  Kampala,  the  native  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Uganda, 
about  20  miles  off,  built  upon  a  group  of  hills,  each  one  of 
wliich   is   occupied   ])y   a   different   conununity.      Mengo    is   the 

59 


Chapter  III. 

royal  hill,  Nakasero  is  the  name  of  the  hill  where  the  English 
officials  reside  ;  the  huildiugs  and  churches  of  the  three 
difterent  missions,  one  Anglican  and  two  Roman  Catholic, 
French  and  English,  governed  each  hy  its  hishop,  occupy  the 
three  separate  hills,  Namirembe,  Rubaga  and  Nsambya.      Last 


NATIVE    HUTS,    ENTEBBE. 


of  all  comes  Kampala,  "  the  hillock  wlilch  was  contemptuously 
given  to  Captain  Liigard  Ijy  Mwanga,  where  the  fii'st  seed 
was  planted  from  which  the  British  Administration  all  over 
these  vast  territories  grew  and  pr()S|)ered."* 

*  Sir  Harry  Johnston,  "  The  Uganda  Protectorate,"  Vol.  I.,  London,  1904. 

60 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

The  common  centre  of  these  diverse  congregations  is  the 
bazaar,  with  shops  well  stocked  with  all  sorts  of  wares,  kept  by 
Indians. 

The  present  King  of  Uganda  is  His  Highness  the  Kabaka 
Dandi  Chwa,  aged  barely  thirteen  years.  He  was  placed  upon 
the  throne  in  1897,  when  liis  father  Mwanga  was  deposed.  His 
ascent  to  the  throne  was  attended  by  tlie  ceremonies  conse- 
crated V)v  national  tradition,  witli  one  important  exception. 
That  portion  of  the  solemn  and  ancient  ceremonial  which 
consisted  of  a  large  slaughter  of  subjects,  was  on  tliis  occasion 
omitted. 


THE    KAMPALA    ROAD,    ENTEBBE. 


The  constitution  is  unchanged.  The  chikl  King  has  three 
Regents  by  his  side,  tlie  Katekiro,  or  Prime  Minister,  the 
Supreme  Judge,  and  the  Treasurer.  He  governs  ^\ith  tlie 
assistance  of  a  Council  composed  of  twenty  chiefs  of  districts 
and  of  sixty-six  notables  who  represent  all  the  districts.  The 
members    of    tliis    Council    are    chosen    by   the   King,   but   the 

61 


C'haj)ter  III. 

representative     of    the     Britisli     Government     lia.s    the     right 
of  veto. 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  Dandi  Chwa,  carefully  educated 
according'  to  civilized  principles  of  modern  justice,  may  retain 
no  trace  of  the  bestial  ferocitv  of  his  ancestors,  and  that  the 
royal  palace  of  Mengo  mav  never  again  see  such  horrors  as 
steeped  it  in  blood  in  tlie  days  of  the  Kings  Mtesa  and 
Mwanga. 


\ 

.^  '' 

1* 

£■■" 

1- 

F;SWffa 

•^ 

• 

■  c-ii^mW^ 

W, 

/ 

wmmm 

|<( 

P^fe 

Hjg^Hj^Hli 

^IJM^II 

u 

"Mr 

m 

^ 

HANGING   NESTS    ON    T}IE    LEAVES    OF   A    TALM. 


Hundreds   of   lunnan   victims   sacrificed  at   a    word   fnun   a 
sorcerer,  wholesale  slaughter  of  the  population  for  a   wliini,  or 

62 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

on  account  of  a  di-eam,  or  to  quiet  the  superstitious  terrors  of 
the  Kabaka,  torture,  mutilation,  daily  murders  of  wives,  of 
servants,  of  slaves,  the  country  emptied  of  women  to  fill  the 
harems  of  the  kings  or  chieftains,  all  this  formed  a  condition  of 


A    ROAD    IN    UGANDA. 

affairs  whose  incidents  were  so  especially  ghastly  that  they 
would  seem  to  surpass  the  limits  of  human  possibility  if  they 
were  not  proved  by  the  mianimity  of  the  descriptions  of 
witne.sses  who  saw  Uganda  in  those  days.  The  neighbouring 
kingdoms  were  in  a  similar  condition,  Avhile  the  population  of 
•the  islands  were  cannibals. 

The  transformation  of  the  country  in  so  few  years  is 
miraciilous,  and  the  greater  portion  uf  the  merit  is  to  be 
attributed  to  the  Mi.ssions.  These  Missions  are  the  direct 
continuation  of  the  first  Anglican  Mission  which  came  to 
Uganda  in  1877  on  the  invitation  of  King  Mtesa,  transmitted 
to  England  by  a  letter  of  Stanley,  which   lias  become  historical. 

63 


Chapter  111. 

This  was  followed  two  years  later  by  the  French  Roman 
Catholic  Mission.  The  persecution  under  Mwanga,  the  murder 
of  Bishop  Hannington,  the  torture  and  burning  alive  of 
many  native  Christians  failed  to  put  a  stop  to  the  work  which 
progi'essed  with  extraordinary  rapidity,  undisturbed  by  the  civil 
wars  and  political  changes.  In  1895,  an  English  Roman 
Catholic  Mission  was  added  to  the  list. 

The  number  of  native  converts  to  Christianity  increased 
yearly  bv  thousands,  while  Islamism  remained  stationary. 
Manners  and   customs  rapidly  improved.      Education    followed 


NATIVE   HUT. 


moral  training.  The  missionaries  created  a  wTitten  language 
for  the  country  where  none  had  heretofore  existed.  Schools 
grew  up  by  hundreds  beside  the  churches. 

64 


k 
ti 

^ 


> 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

At  the  present  time  many  villages  around  Entebbe  and 
Kampala  are  entirely  Christian.  The  blacks  may  be  seen  any 
day  squatting  on  the  ground  aroimd  the  catechist.  Throughout 
the  country  numbers  of  natives  may  be  met  going  or  coming 
from  their  labour  in  the  fields,  jiraying  or  reciting  the  rosary 
on  their  way.  They  are  all  clad  in  the  long  white  tunic  with 
wide  sleeves,  which  has  almost  universally  replaced  the  older 
garment  made  out  of  strips  of  the  l)ark  of  a  special  variety  of 
fig-tree,  beaten  until  they  become  soft  and  flexible,  and  stitched 
together  with  great  art.  On  Sunday,  in  the  spacious  churches 
of  Mengo,  which  aftbrd  room  for  several  thousands  of  persons, 
men,  women  and  childen  may  be  seen  worshipping  with 
exemplary  fervour  and  decorum. 

On  the  other  hand,  it  cannot  be  denied  that  Islamism 
exercised  an  important  and  beneficial  influence  in  rescuing  the 
country  from  its  barbarous  condition.  In  many  districts  the 
Mohammedans  are  still  in  the  majority. 

The  Italian  expedition  remained  at  Entebbe  from  the  7  th  to 
the  15th  May  to  prepare  in  detail  the  organization  of  the 
caravan.  During  this  time  Commander  Cagni  unfortunately 
fell  a  victim  to  the  unhealthy  climate,  taking  the  malarial 
fever  on  the  8th  of  May.  This  persisted,  in  spite  of  quinine 
injections,  and  was  complicated  by  intestinal  inflammation.  It 
soon  became  necessary  to  remove  him  to  the  hospital,  which 
was  situated  in  a  healthier  position,  and  afibrded  better 
accommodation. 

Owing  to  this  calamity,  the  Duke  lost  invaluable  assistance 
at  the  very  moment  when  the  work  Ijegan  to  be  difficult  and 
complicated. 

The  luggage  of  the  expedition  had  been  carried  by  porters 
to  the  courtyard  of  the  Equatorial  Hotel,  followed  by  a  crowd 

65  F 


Chapter  III. 

of  inquisitive  children  and  adults.  Here  the  cases  were  opened, 
and  their  contents  verified  and  inventoried.  The  whole  camp 
outfit ,  including  tents,  heds,  sleeping  bags,  stools,  tables,  baths, 
cooking  utensils,  the  hermetically  sealed  cases  containing 
clothing  ;  the  photographic  materials,  and  the  materials  for  the 
zoolocrical,  ])otanical  and  mineraloo-ical  collections  :  the  arms  and 
ammunition,  formed  I  14  loads  weighing  about  47  lbs.  each,  all 
nmnbered  and  so  marked  as  to  he  immediately  recognizable. 


A    }m,I,Y    BIT   OF   KOAD. 


The  commissariat  formed  80  additional  loads  of  the  same 
weight,  each  one  of  which  contained  rations  for  12  persons 
during  one  day.  The  supplies  had  been  laid  in  on  a  calculation 
of  a  sojourn  of  40  days  above  the  snow-limit,  and  of  a  period  of 
the  same  length  below,  to  allow  for  the  journey  from  Entebbe 
to  tlie  mountains  and  back.  The  rations  were  in  tin  boxes, 
soldered  and  enclosed  in  thin  wooden  boards.  The  only  differ- 
ence between  the  high-mountain  rations  and  those  for  the  lower 
regions  was  that  the  latter  were  without  tinned  meat,  because 

66 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 


it  would  be  easy  to  find  fresh   meat    supplies  throughout    the 
inhabited  regions. 

According  to  calculation  194  porters  were  needed  to  carry 
the  entire  equipment.  In  addition  to  these  there  were  the 
caravan  leaders,  the  personal  servants,  or  "  boys,"  with  their 
own  porters,  the  natives  who  were  needed  to  take  care  of  the 
horses  and  nniles,  and  who  were  to  drive  the  oxen,  goats  and 
sheep  which  were  provided  f(3r  the  sustenance  of  the  caravan. 


ACROSS   THK    MAliSlllCS. 


and  other  natives,  with  simdry  minor   attributions.      The  total 
mounted  up  to  above  300  persons. 

Mr.  J.  Martin,  Collector,  who  had  special  experience  in 
oi'ganizing  caravans  and  journeys,  had  caused  the  men  to  be 
selected  and  got  together  during  the  months  preceding  the 
arrival  of  the  Italian  expedition  by  Sig.  Bulli,  an  ex-employe 
of  the  Italian  Colonial  Societv,  who  was  also  to  accompany 
the  expedition. 


67 


F  2 


Chapter  III. 


Three  hov...  and  thn-e  -auU-s  luul  l.eeu  pn.vuled  U. 
occasional  riding,  beside  two  rickshaws  holding  one  or  two 
;:;ons  each,  to^.  drawn  or  pushed  )>y  natives,  tor  use  on  the 
relatively  level   portions  of  the  road. 


i'ArYr>i  ANn  watkr  tjues. 

Everything   was  ready  by  the   12.h  of  May.      The   L)uke 
however  lingered  three  day.  more,  as  he  could  hardly  make  u 
'r  nind  to  leave  C.gnl  behind.     At  last  it  became  obv.onsl, 
Lsary  to  set  forth  .ithont  bin,.     The  p-ohable  dura  »n  . 
his   illness   was  too  uncertain,  and   further  delay  would   h.ue 
involved  the  risk  of  letting  the  best  season  pass,  not  to  n«.^t- 
the  risk  of  some  one  else  falling  ill.  and  so  endangenng   he  wM 
success  of  the  expedition.     They  could   only  hope   that  Cagn,, 

68 


THE    TROPICAL  FOREST 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 


thanks  to  the  devoted  care  of  the  excellent  Doctor  Hodges, 
might  recover  in  time  to  overtake  them.  Witli  this  ohject  in 
view,  he  was  left  provided  with  all  the  equipment  necessary  to 
permit  of  his  setting  out  as  soon  as  he  should  be  sufficiently 
recovered. 

On  the  14tli  of  May,  H.K.H.  and  the  rest  of  the  party  took 
leave  of  the  kind  liosts  who  liad  done  so  much  to  make  their 
stay  at  Entebbe  pleasant  tor  them.  The  Collector,  Mr.  Martin, 
as  representative  of  the  Protectorate  Administration,  accom- 
panied them  as  far  as  the  frontier  kingdom  of  Uganda  with  an 
escort  of  twenty-seven  native  soldiers  and  sixty-seven  porters. 


KI.KPHANT   CRASS. 


Early  on  the  morning  of  the  loth  the  porters  with  their 
caravan  leaders,  the  boys,  and  the  soldiers  were  gathered  in 
the  com-tyard  of  Berti's  Hotel,  where  the  loads  were  distributed, 
while  the  Prince  and  his  companions  were  taking  leave  of  Cagni 

69 


Chapter  III. 

and  endeavouring  to  cheer  up  his  spirits  with  the  hope  of 
overtaking  them.  By  8.30  the  porters  had  their  loads  on  their 
heads,  and  started  on  their  way  in  a  long  file,  with  deafening- 
shouts,  on  the  wide  and  even  road  to  Kampala.      The  caravan 


THE    \AT1\  E    PATH. 


numhered  ahout  400  individuals,  and  tlie  vanguard  was  nearly 
out  of  sight  hv  the  time  that  the  Prince  and  the  other  members 
of  the  expedition  started  in  their  tiu'n. 

Soon  after  leaving  Entebbe  the  road  enters  imder  tlie 
majestic  vaults  of  a  tropical  forest.  The  distance  from  Entebbe 
to  Fort  Portal  is  about  180  miles,  with  an  ascent  of  some 
1,165  feet.  This  ascent  mav  be  I'egarded  as  falling  into  four 
sections  Ijelonging  to  separate  river  systems.  The  first  of  these 
collects  the  waters  which  flow  southward  into  the  River  Katongo, 
a  tributary  of  the  Victoria  Nyanza.  Lake  Isolt  belongs  to  this 
section.    The  second  and  third  basins  contain  the  affluents  of  the 

70 


FROM     FORT     PORTAL    TO     BUJONGOLO 


S  ECTION 

Horizonral  Scale    1: 1,000.000 
Verrical  Scale     15  000 


The  heights  oF  F*Portal  and  Entebbe  are  based  upon  barometrical  observatons  taken  in  the 
botanjcal  garden  of  Entebbe  and  near  the  residence  of  the  Collectop  of  F'  Portal 


FROM     ENTEBBE    TO    FORT    PORTAL 


S  ECTIO  N 

Horizonral   Scale    1    1.000000 
Verrical  Scale     1  5.000 


The  heights  oF  F*Portal  and  Entebbe  are  based  upon  barometrical  observations  taken  in  the 
botanical  garden  oF  Entebbe  and  near  the  residence  oF  the  Collector  oF  F*  Portal 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 


Misisl,  which  takes  its  course  northward  and  flows  into  the 
Albert  Nyanza.  A  last  rise  brings  the  traveller  to  the 
watershed  between  the  tributaries  of  Lake  Albert  Edward  and 
those  of  Lake  Albert, 
vertical  section  annexed 


This  distribution  is  brought  out   in  the 


IX    THE   TllOPICAL   FOREST. 


This  vast  reo-ion,  which  forms  a  sort  of  tableland  between 
the  three  lakes,  is  intersected  in  every  direction  Ijy  ridges  of 
hills,  lower,  steeper  and  more  crowded  to  the  east,  more  dis- 
tinctly marked  into  ranges  to  the  west. 

71 


Chapter  III. 

The  colour  of  the  earth  is  a  hrick-red  throughout  the  district. 
The  vegetation  is  distributed  according  to  accidents  of  the  soil. 
The  high  groiuid,  the  top  of  the  hills,  and  their  slopes  are 
covered  with  deep  grass  and  occasional  single  trees  or  groups  of 
a  few  ti-ees  set  in  Ijrushwood.  The  valley  bottoms  where  water 
ilows  are  covered  with   luxuriant  forests.     Where  the   waters 


BETWEEN   SWAMP   AND    FOREST. 

stagnate   stretch    vast  swamps  covered  with  gigantic  papyrus, 
under  whose  shade  flourishes  a  rich  growtli  of  aquatic  plants. 

From  tlie  higher  ridges,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
stretches  an  undulating  plain,  whose  rounded  hillocks,  covered 
witli  deejj  yellow  grass,  are  diversified  bv  low-lving  strips  of 
dark  screen  forest. 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

The  word  grass,  by  the  way,  is  liardly  appropriate  to  a 
gi'owth  Avhich,  while  reaching  a  height  of  from  10  to  20  feet, 
is  at  the  same  time  so  dense  as  to  make  it  practically  impossible 
to  deviate  from  the  path,  and  ofters  far  more  analogy  to  a  huge 
bed  of  reeds  than  to  a  meadow.  It  is  called  "  elephant  grass," 
and  is  indeed  a  pasture  appropriate  to  such  a  herd.  From 
time  to  time  the  elephant  grass  makes  way  for  herbaceous 
vegetation  on  a  more  modest  scale,  not  more  than  three  feet 
high,  and  dotted  with   innumerable  flowers. 


I'I..\NT.UN    (Mil  (YES. 


The  natives  are  in  the  liahit  of  setting  tire  to  the  grasses- 
during  the  dry  season.  Possibly  the  vast  &es  thus  kindled,  and 
which  spread  especially  on  the  heights  where  the  earth  is  dry 
and  where  the  wind  fans  the  flames,  destroy  the  young  trees,, 
and  so  hinder  the  formation  of  forests  except  in  the  sheltered 
valleys  beside  running  water.  The  fact  is  that,  as  a  rule,  the 
trees  which  stand  here  and  there  among  the  tall  gi'asses,  and 
give   the  coinitrv  the  characteristic  look  of  a  park,  are  all   of 

7.3 


Chapter  III. 

very  considei'able  size.  The  principal  species  are  acacia, 
mimosa,  euphorbia,  erithryua,  and  spathodea,  both  these  last 
with  brilliant  scarlet  flowers. 

At  tlie  loot  of  these  trees,  among  the  brushwood  and  low 
plants,  is  nearly  always  to  be  found  one  of  those  curious  cones 
constructed  by  termites  which  characterize  all  Central  African 
landscapes.  It  would  seem  as  if  some  reason  must  exist  for 
their  invai-iuljle  connection  with  these  isolated  groups  of  trees. 
Possibly  tlie  termites,  by  collecting  earth  in  one  spot,  favour 
the  development  of  buslies  and  creeping  plants,  which  in  their 
turn  serve  to  shelter  the  growth  of  some  forest  tree  until  its 
roots  are  firmly  established  in  the  soil. 

The  forest  zones  in  tlie  valleys  along  tlie  brooks  are 
I'eal  oases  of  virgin  forest.  The  luxuriant  trees  over  a 
humhed  feet  high,  diverse  species  of  acacias,  majestic  palms 
(Borassus  and  Rapliia),  cassia  and  dracsena,  are  overgrown  with 
climbing  plants,  and  entwined  witli  the  long  rojies  of  giant 
lianas.  Troops  of  monkeys  are  fi'equently  seen  leaping  from 
branch  to  liranch  witli  shrill  cries.  The  white-tailed  Colobus  is 
the  commonest  species.  The  forest  soil,  even  on  days  of  blazing 
sunshine,  remains  damp  and  elastic.  Off  the  path  the  whole 
ground  is  one  carpet  of  deep  moss. 

The  contrast  with  the  open  tracts  enhances  the  charm  of  the 
forests.  After  crossing  a  slope  scorched  by  the  sun,  the 
traveller  enters  into  the  jirofomid  sliade  heavy  A\itli  the 
perfumes  of  acacia,  mimosa,  jasmine,  and   lionevsuckle. 

The  district  is  fairly  populous,  but  the  inhabitants  are  so 
hidden  away  among  their  banana  groves  and  impenetrable 
grasses  that  it  is  possible  to  pass  quite  close  to  villages 
without  noticing  them.  They  consist  of  clusters  of  huts 
usually   situated    half-way  up    a    liill,  surroimded    bv  tufts    of 


From  Entel)l)e  to  Fort  Portal. 

bauauas,  littlt^  cultivated  fields  and  a  few  forest  trees.  The  huts 
are  of  the  usual  conical  type.  The  circular  roof  thatched  with 
grass  straw  is  artfully  constructed  to  reach  down  to  the  ground 
on  every  side  except  over  tlie  entrance,  \\'he!e  it  is  cut  short  and 


BAUANDA    WOMEN. 


projects  into  a  low  narrow  porch.  The  interior  is  encumbered  by 
the  numerous  pillars  and  posts  which  support  this  heavy  roof. 
Some  of  the  luits  are  surrounded  by  an  enclosure,  or  even  by 
.several  enclosures,  so  that  three  or  four  courts  must  be  crossed 
to  reach  the  house. 

75 


Chapter  III. 

The  land  around  the  huts;  is  cidtivated  for  a  short  distance 
onlv.     As  is  usual   in   tropical   countries,   the  indolence   of  the 
population  limits  the  production  of  the  soil  to  the  amount  which 
is    strictly    necessary    to    sustain    life.       There    is    no    trace    of 
co-operation.      Each  family  owns  its  hut  and  its  Held,  which   it 


1!A(;axda. 


cultivates  for  its  owni  exclusive  use.  Agricultural  laboin-  is 
performed  entirely  by  women.  They  cultivate  plantain,  egg- 
fruit,  potatoes,  sweet  potatoes,  beans,  maize,  dura,  cotton,  sesame 
and  sugar-cane.  A  delicious  fruit,  always  cool  and  refreshing,  is 
the  pawpaw. 

76 


From  Entebl)L'  to   Fort  Portal. 

The  Ijanaua,  or  plantain,  is  the  staple  of  diet.  There  are 
several  varieties.  Besides  the  sweet  banana,  which  is  eaten  ripe 
and  raw,  there  is  a  jalantaln  which  is  gathered  unripe  and  eaten 
cooked.  From  the  flesh  of  another  variety  a  sort  of  bread  is 
made.      The  juice  is  pressed  out  and    forms    a   refreshing,  cool 


.  V'.^Y^    ^^^1 

fcj 

^^t^^l'  l) 

B 

BAGAXDA    WOMKX. 


di'ink  called  Mbisi.  This  becomes  alcoholic  and  intoxicatino-  if 
allowed  to  ferment,  and  is  then  called  Mweuge.  Finally  the 
leaves  and  stalks  are  used  for  various  purposes.  The  origin 
of  the  cultivated  banana  is  uncertain.  Botanically  it  is  quite 
difierent  from  tlie  wild  native  banana,  and  it  is  doubtful 
whether  it  could  have  been  derived  from  it. 


II 


Chapter  III. 

The  path,  which  seems  at  times  like  a  sort  of  deep  trench 
cut  through  walls  of  high  grass,  and  then  again  opens  out  into  a 
tolerably  wide  road  over  tracts  of  plain,  proceeds  as  straight  as 
any  ancient  Roman  highway,  crossing  hills  or  following  their 
ridges,  descending  into  valleys  and  piercing  forests,  or  rvuniing 
over  reaches  of  watery  swauijjs  on  a  low  viaduct.  Tliis  latter 
is    constructed    by    cutting    down     papyrus    stalks    and    canes 


I'AWPAW    TREE. 


and  throwing  them  across  the  road  from  side  to  side,  thus 
forming  a  thick  stratum  upon  which  the  path  is  built  of  sand 
and  earth,  beaten  hard  and  strengthened  on  either  side  by  piles 
driven  deep  into  the  mud. 

This  is  the  ancient  road  wliich   existed  before   the  British 
occupation.     It  is  kept  up  with  great  care  by  gangs  of  half- 

78 


From  Entebbe  to  P^'ort  Portal. 

naked   women,   old   and   young,   who  weed  out    the   grass   and 
smooth  the  way  with  Httle  native  spades. 

The  first  part  of  the  road,  where  the  hills  are  nearer  to 
one  another,  runs  incessantly  up  and  down  the  steejj  inclines. 
After  Lake  Isolt  the  slopes  hecome  gentler,  with  intervals  of 
plain,  and  the  marches  are  consequently  less  fatiguing.  The 
swamps,  too,  diminish  as  the  ti'aveller  approaches  Fort  Portal,, 
and  the   countrv  takes  on  a  healthier  look. 


PORTERS    HUTS. 


The  temperature  is  pleasant  in  the  earlv  morning,  l)ut 
towards  midday  it  becomes  very  liot,  althougli,  fortunately, 
during  the  hottest  hours  the  sky  is  nearly  always  covered 
with  clouds,  which,  be  they  thick  or  thin,  are  always  sufficient 
to  veil  the  blazing  rays  of  the  sun.  Nearly  every  day  or 
night  there  is  a  violent  liut  brief  tliunderstorm  with  a 
gale  and  torrents  of  ram.  Happily,  the  Italian  caravan  liad 
no  experience  of  the  terrible  storms,  accompanied  by  water- 
spouts,   cyclones    and    dangerous    electrical    discharges,    which 

79 


Chapter  III. 

inundate,    tear    up,   and   destroy  everything    upon    tlieir    path, 
^nd  are  said  to  be  not  infrequent  in  Uganda. 

The  changes  of  weather  are,  as  a  rule,  sudden.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  sky,  up  till  then  clear  or  scarcely  veiled  with  a 
light  cloud,  grows  ]:)lack  as  midnight  and  threatening.  With 
equal  rapidity,  after  a  brief  period  of  rain  the  heavy  dark 
clouds  are  dispelled  by  the  blazing  sun. 


BlILDIXG   A    HUT. 


The  duration  of  the  marches  was  from  three  to  six 
Tiours,  during  which  period  from  10  to  18  miles  were  covered. 
The  porters,  as  a  rule,  walk  fast  ;  in  some  places  they  nearly 
run.  The  caravan  usually  started  with  the  dawn,  about  5.30  ; 
and  stopped  by  midday  so  as  to  rest  during  the  hot  hours. 
On   the   march   the   caravan   covered   nearlv  h:df  a    kilometre. 

80 


c 

C 
< 

EC 


(< 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

The  din  of  the  chatterino;,  hiiie;hiui>-  and  shontino-  was  a  little 
diminished  in  the  hard  Ints  of  road  only  where  a  steep  up-hill 
would  set  even  those  wdio  were  not  loaded  panting.  From 
every  little  village  along  the  way  the  natives  ran  out,  curious 
to  see  the  sight  and  exchange  chatter  and  laughter  with  the 
porters.  Now  and  then  the  travellers  met  a  caravan  bringing 
salt  frt)ni  Toro,  or  ivory  from  the  Congo,  or  even  a  white  trader 
travellino;  with  his  own  escort. 

The  native  escort  exercised  a  certain  discipline  over  the 
numerous  party,  and  intervened  from  time  to  time  to  adjust 
quarrels  and  disputes  started,  as  a  rule,  by  the  porters  who,  in 
order  to  lighten  their  own  labour,  would  requisition  by  force 
any  other  natives  whom  they  might  meet  on  the  road. 

The  blacks  are  on  the  whole  childlike,  good-natured  and 
peaceable,  or  ill-tempered  and  savage,  according  as  they  are 
managed.  With  a  little  tact  and  goodwill,  not  without 
necessary  firmness,  it  is  easy  to  direct  their  impulsive  natures. 

The  great  majority  of  the  caravan  consisted  of  Baganda, 
the  real  native  population  of  Uganda,  whose  anthropological 
characteristics  are  so  diverse  as  to  presuppose  the  product  of 
mingled  elements.  Some  of  their  features  are  distinctly 
negi'oid  ;  as,  for  instance,  woolly,  jet  black  hair  ;  the  nose  sunk 
at  the  root,  flat  and  wide  ;  l)road,  protuberant  lips  and 
projecting  ears.  But  the  prognathism  is  not  marked,  and 
the  brow  is  wide  and  not  retreating.  They  are  usually 
lean,  not  muscular,  and  do  not  give  tlie  impression  of  a 
very  strong  people. 

Their  manners  and  customs  seem  more  advanced  than  in 
many  other  African  tribes.  They  neitlier  dye  nor  grease  their 
skin  ;  they  do  not  tattoo  their  persons  nor  cover  themselves 
with   decorative  scars,   and    witli   the  exception  of  the  children 

81  G 


Chapter  III. 

and   a   few    womfu    they    are    not    loaded   with    necklaces    and 
bracelets. 

Many  a  traveller  has  been  astonished  by  their  complex  social 
order,  a  veritable  feudal  system,  while  in  their  legends  and 
traditions,  in  the  designs  of  their  household  utensils  made  of 
plaited  grass,  in  the  form  of  their  musical  string  instruments,  in 
their  astronomical  svmbols  carved  upon  horns,  and  in  certain 
biu'ial  rites,  indications  have  been  suffg-ested  of  relations  and 
contact  with  ancient  Egypt. 


\'ISIT   IIF   A    CHIEF   WITH    HIS   COVRT,    ERIXGIXG    TEESENTS. 


The  Baganda  have  preserved  the  history  of  their  ancient 
dynasty  by  puie  vei'bal  tradition.  It  consists  of  thirty-six 
names  of  kings,  and  must  date  back  as  far  as  the  fourteenth  or 
fifteenth  century. 

The  Suahili  porters  formed  a  smaller  part  of  the  caravan 
than  the  Baganda.  The  Suahili  are  a  cross  between  Arabs 
and  Bantu  negroes.  Coming  oi'iginally  from  the  coast,  they 
are  now  scattered  over  the  whole  of  Central  Africa. 

82 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

The  encampments  were  always  situated  at  a  certain  distance 
from  the  villages,  in  places  selected  beforehand  and  prepared 
for  the  purpose.  There  was  usually  a  hut  where  meals  were 
provided  for  the  Europeans,  and  one  or  two  sheds  to  shelter 
the  equipment  from  the  weather.  Around  the  sheds  stood  the 
European  tents.  Mr.  Martin  formed  a  second  smaller  camp. 
Entrlish  and  Italian  flag-s  were  tlown  over  each.  The  tents 
were    surrounded    by   a    zeriba    or    enclosure    of    plaited    cane 


DAXCINC;    IN    THE    PORTERS    C.VMP. 


which   served   less  as  a  defence  than   as  a   means   of  dividing 
the  European  camp  from  that  of  the  native  porters. 

The  native  porters  would  arrive  at  their  destination  at  a 
run,  singing  and  shouting,  tlirov,'  down  their  loads  hastily  on 
the  spot  fixed  for  tlie  purpose,  and  immediately  set  to  work 
to  build  huts  for  tlieir  own  shelter.  The  luits  would  spring  up 
all  aromid  with  the  most  marvellous  rapidity.      Tlie  method  of 

83  o  2 


Chapter  III. 

construction  is  most  ingenious.  A  nnmi)er  of  sliyht  rods  or 
flexible  canes  are  stuck  into  tlie  eartli  in  a  circle.  Their  upper 
ends  are  bent  so  as  to  meet  in  the  mitldle  and  interwoven 
so  as  to  form  a  dome.  Upon  this  are  placed  bundles  of  grass 
disposed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  leave  a  narro\\-  opening  for  the 
entrance.  Thus  in  less  than  a  quarter  of  an  hour  a  vast  grassy 
plain  is  transformed  into  a  considerable  village.  While  the 
work  proceeds,  there  arrive  from  the  neighbouring  villages  long 
files  of  women  and  old  men  carrying  on  their  heads  parcels  of 


WRESTLING   MATCH    AMONG   THE    PORTERS. 

fruit  and  of  sweet  potatoes  wrapped  in  plantain  leaves. 
Swarms  of  naked  chikben  accompany  them.  The  tiny  ones 
are  carried  on  their  mothers'  backs  in  a  told  of  their  garment. 
In  this  way  the  caravan  lives  entii-ely  on  food  supplied  by  the 
population  of  the  regions  crossed. 

In  the  meantime  the  Duke  would  receive  a  visit  of 
ceremony  from  some  chieftain,  whose  airival  in  camp,  attended 
with   the    pomp   befitting  his   dignity,    had  been    heralded    by 

84 


yj/:ir  n/rnr/-i:\-  ixiiiiuii-:  A\n  roRr  ro/rrAf.—  r/ihJsx  fkom  a  hill  ahoih  camp  nii'i-YA 


O 


'■^Sa^WJi**^'' 


"■•  -■^:w 


«..--/.<t. 


m 


•■■»i 


5'=^ 


-7^^  A 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

divers  messengers.  Now  the  great  man  liiniself  wunld  appear, 
clad  in  a  flowing  white  tunic,  or  a  mantle  of  more  or  less  costly 
material,  and  with  sandalled  feet,  surrounded  by  retainers 
bearing  the  umbrella  and  stool,  the  insignia  of  power,  and 
followed  ])V  a  train  of  ministers  and  a  Ijodymiard  armed  with 
lances  and  staves. 

The    rear   was   usually   brduglit    up    by  a   crowd    of   natives 
drivino'  eoats  and  sheei),  or  even  calves  and  bulls,  and  bearintr 


NATIVE    lUXD. 


baskets  full  of  fowls,  eggs  and  bananas,  to  be  presented  as  gifts 
to  the  strangers.  A  noisy  l)an(l  with  drums,  trumpets,  horns 
and  flutes  woidd  eitlier  follow  or  precede  the  cortege.  Some- 
times the  chiefs  would  come  with  their  escorts  as  far  as  the 
bovmdary  of  their  own  territory  to  meet  the  expedition,  and 
accompany  it  to  its  lialting-place.      As   to  the  musicians,  they 

8.5 


Chapter  III. 

would  frequently  accompany  the  expedition   for  days  together, 
paying  it  honour  with  tlieir  cruelly  persistent  music. 

The  Duke,  or  some  member  of  the  expedition  chosen  to  repre- 
sent liim,  would  next  return  the  chieftain's  visit  and  present 
a  gift,  usually  quite  moderate  in  proportion  to  the  value 
received.  The  dwellings  of  the  chiefs  are  circular  huts,  with 
walls  of  plaited  reeds  and  the  usual  native  roof  The 
interior  is  divided  by  curtains  into  various  rooms.  The  walls 
are  adorned  with  illustrations  from  European  periodicals.  The 
floors  are  covered  with  mats  and  skins.  There  is  usually 
a  fair  supply  of  chairs  and  cushions.  The  whole  is  clean  and 
orderly.  The  liTit  is  surrounded  by  several  zeribas.  In  the 
courts  between  tlie  zeribas  are  huts  for  women,  slaves, 
soldiers,  etc. 

On  the  first  days  of  the  marcli  the  iieed  of  attending  to 
innumerable  details,  in  order  to  effect  the  best  arrangement  of 
the  whole  and  systematize  tlie  work  of  each,  left  the  members 
of  the  expedition  very  little  time  to  enjoy  the  jjicturesque 
aspects  of  the  adventure.  Later  on,  as  each  one  grew 
accustomed  to  his  special  attributions,  every  hour  became  a 
source  of  new  enjoyment. 

The  most  remarkable  and  changeful  spectacle  was  presented 
by  the  swarming  native  camp,  Avith  its  deafening  racket  and 
perpetual  excitement,  dominated  by  the  incessant  rolling  of 
drums  and  the  inharmonious  strains  of  uncouth  musical  instru- 
ments, the  loud  cackling  of  poultry,  the  bleating  of  flocks  and 
lowing  of  cattle.  Now^  and  again  noisy,  jabbering  crowds  would 
sinround  dancers  or  wrestlers.  Women  who  had  come  to 
fetch  food  for  the  porters,  men  from  the  neighbouring  villages, 
small  children,  even,  would  remain  in  camp  to  add  to  the 
hubbub  and  confusion. 

86 


> 


^ 
S 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

Groups  of  native  converts,  strangely  contrasting  with  their 
heathen  surroundings,  would  pray  in  a  loud  voice,  or  recite  the 
rosarv.     In  addition  to  tlie  rosarv,  thev  were  often  adorned  with 


BETWEEN    ENTEBKE   AM>   FOKT    I'ORTAI.. 


crosses,  medals  and  reliquaries  hanging  around  their  necks. 
Here  a  Mohammedan  would  lie  worshipping  on  liis  bit  of 
carpet  at  sunset,  while  yonder  the  native  escort  would  lie 
p'oinjy  throutrh  their  dailv  drill. 

As  evening  closes  in,  the  cauip  is  lit  up  by  hundreds  of 
fires,  around  which  the  porters  sit  until  far  on  in  the  night, 
roasting  the  sweet  potatoes,  or  boiling  the  plantains  which, 
witli  the  addition  occasionally  of  a  little  dried  fish,  form  their 
sole  diet. 

After  a  march  of  five  or  six  hours  over  heavy  ground, 
carrying  fahly  substantial  loads  on  their  heads,  this  frugal 
single  meal  was  amply  sufficient  to  their  simple  needs.  Banana 
wine  is  a  rare  luxury,  while  water  is  scarce  and  filtliy,  witli  a 
disgusting:  smell  and  taste  even  when  boiled. 

87 


Chapter  III. 

The  various  menihers  of  the  expedition  were  hy  no  means 
idle  during  camp.  Tlie  Duke  was  in  the  habit  of  attending  in 
person  to  the  sorting  and  verifying  of  the  equipment  ;  to  the 
meteorological  observations  taken  with  instruments  arranged 
in  the  little  camp  observatorv  which  was  set  up  at  each  camp 
in  the  most  suitabU-  position  ;  and  to  the  observations  of 
lono-itude  and   latitude. 


CAMP   .\T    P.TMOXGO. 


At  eacli  halt  Dr.  Cavalli  was  innnediately  besieged  by 
crowds  of  native  patients  from  every  distiict,  while  one  or 
another  of  the  porters  was  siu'e  to  make  daily  demands  upon 
his  treatment. 

Sella,  besides  his  photographic  work,  would  spend  part  of 
the  afternoon  in  roaming  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  camp  with 
Roccati    and    Cavalli     in    cjuest    of    botanical    and    zoological 

88 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

specimens.  Contrary  to  expectation,  the  lower  forms  of  animal 
life  23roved  to  be  rare.  Possibly  they  have  been  annihilated 
by  the  termites  which  invade  and  destroy  everything.  Native 
men  and  boys  fi'om  the  neighbouring  villages  would  join 
eagerly  in  the  quest,  and  show  visible  amusement  at  the 
sight  of  Roccati  treasuring  up  diminutive  insects,  spiders  and 
scorpions,  and  putting  Ijy  Hzards  and  cliamseleons. 


CAJU'   AT    KATE.NDE. 


Now  and  again  a  shooting  party  would  set  forth.  Guinea- 
fowls  and  doves  abound  in  the  plantations  around  the  camps. 
The  region  is  rich  in  elephants,  zebras,  antelopes,  lions  and 
leopards.  This  sort  of  game,  however,  requires  special  beating,, 
and  is  not  compatilile  witli  the  rapid  marches  of  a  caravan  bent 
upon   a   totally   ditierent   aim.      It   was   only   very   seldom   and 

89 


Chapter  III. 

at  a  great  distance  that  an  occasional  antelope  was  seen  fleeing 
from  the  approach  of  the  party. 

Towards  evening  the  air  woidd  grow  cool,  and  after  dinner 
the  Europeans  would  gather  I'ound  the  now  far  from  unpleasant 
warmth  of  a  great  blazing  fire  which  served  also  as  protection 
against  mosquitoes.  At  night  the  latter  became  a  real  plague  ; 
througli  long  and  wakeful  liours  you  would  liear  their  drone 
diversified  by  the  cry  of  the  sentinels  and  the  strange  trill 
of  the  huga-huga,  a  tiny  bird  which  builds  its  nest  aroimd 
camping  places. 

Between  three  and  foiu-  in  tlie  morning  the  reveille  was 
sounded  by  trumpets  and  tlie  camp  at  once  filled  with  din.  It 
took  the  caravan  little  more  than  an  hour  to  get  ready  to 
start.  The  porters  fell  upon  their  loads  and  set  forth  with 
their  usual  shrill  cries. 

The  journey  from  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal  took  fifteen  days. 

On  the  18  th  of  May  they  encamped  at  Mitiana,  near  a 
brancli  of  the  French  Roman  Catholic  Mission  at  the  foot  of  a 
hill,  on  the  top  of  which  stood  a  small  shrine.  They  exchanged 
visits  with  the  Missionary  Father's,  who  sent  presents  of 
excellent  European  fruits  and  vegetables.  On  the  following 
night  they  leached  Bujongo  in  sight  of  Lake  Isolt,  a  lake 
rich  in  fish  and  dotted  with  wooded  islands.  This  and  the 
following  camps  were  fortified  with  strong  hedges  and  palisades, 
because  the  country  was  infested  with  lions  to  such  an  extent 
that  the  natives  would  not  risk  travelling  by  night. 

On  the  25th  of  May  they  crossed  the  border  between  the 
Province  of  Uganda  and  the  Western  Province,  which  includes 
the  districts  of  Toro,  Unyoro  and  Ankole.  In  addition  to  the 
native  chieftains  of  the  new  district,  followed  by  their  respective 
coiu'ts,  the  Prince  was  here  met  by  the  Sub-Commissioner  of  the 

90 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

province,  Mr.  A.  F.  Knowles,  who  was  to  accompanv  the 
expedition  throughout  his  own  jurisdiction,  while  Mr.  Martin 
returned  with  his  escort  to  Entebbe. 


RUWENZOKI   SEEN    FROJI    BlTITl. 


Henceforward  the  reveille  was  no  longer  somided  by 
trumpets,  but  by  the  rolling  of  the  Unyoro  drums.  The  game 
now  seemed  to  become  more  abundant.  Numerous  deep 
elephant  tracks  crossed  the  path.  Herds  of  antelopes  became 
more  frequently  visible  in  the  far  distance.  Vultures,  hawks, 
and  other  birds  of  prey  wheeled  in  the  sky. 

A  new  feature  of  the  landscape  was  the  granite  formation, 
which  here  and  there  pushes  its  wav  through  the  soil  in  rounded 
hummocks  somewhat  similar  to  the  rocks  known  as  moutonnees, 
in  regions  which  have  passed  through  a  glacial  period.  The 
gi-ass  became  less  deep,  the  trees  and  flowering  shrubs  increased 


91 


Chapter  TTI. 

Ill   iimnbers,   while   between   the   hillocks  were   open   spaces   of 
ijroinid  nearlv  liarren  save  for  a  prowth   of  reddish -vellow  trrass 
mingled   with   low   ferns.       The   plantain  groves   diminished   in 
extent  and  were  in  })art  replaced  Ijy  sweet  jjotatoes  and  beans. 
The  district  was  lessthicklv  populated  than  that  which  preceded. 

The  march  was  often  heavy  and  fatiguing.  The  weather 
had  clianged  for  the  worse,  and  frei[uent  rainfalls  made  the 
track  muddv  and  slippery. 

As  the  expedition  drew  nearer  to  the  Lakes  Albert  and 
Albert  Edward,  their  impatience  to  see  the   chain  of  Ruwenzori 


^ 

m^  — 

NEAR    BUTrn,    WITH    KVWEN'ZOEI    IX    THE    EACKOROUND. 


grew  acute,  and  from  the  moment  wlien  they  entered  the  TorO' 
district  their  attention  concentrated  itself  upon  the  western 
horizon,  esjjecially  when  the  path  led  tliem  over  the  top  of  some 


92 


i\ 


o 

I*. 


I 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

hill.  Twice  they  fancied  that  they  had  sight  of  snowy  peaks, 
l)ut  it  was  an  illusion  created  by  white  clouds  Tipon  the 
horizon. 

Finally,  on  the  niurninL;-  of  the  l!.sth  of  May,  from  the  top 
of  certain  hills  to  the  north  of  Kaibo,  which  form  part  of  the 
watershed  between  Lake  Albert  Edward  and  Lake  Albert,  on  a 
day  when  the  sky  was  clouded  but  the  air  clear,  tliey  suddenly 
saw  against  the  sky  to  the  westward  the  sno\\-y  peaks  of 
the  great  chain,  which  were  about  45  miles  off,  and  looked  as 
if  they  were  suspended  in  the  air,  for  their  feet  were  enveloped 
in  mists  while  a  heavy  rack  of  clouds  hung  so  low  over  the 
sununits  as  nearly  to  rest  upon  them.  Seen  from  this  point,  the 
mountains  appear  divided  into  three  main  groups.  Of  these, 
the  central  one  is  dominated  by  a  characteristically  cloven  peak, 
covered  with  snow%  which  seems  to  l)e  the  highest  of  all,  and 
which  is  separated  from  the  group  to  its  south  liv  a  deep  notch  ; 
the  third  group  is  to  the  north  or  north-east  of  the  central 
mass.  The  foot  of  the  glaciers,  which  come  down  from  the 
high  I'idges,  is  hidden  by  the  projecting  spurs  of  the  range. 

They  encamped  that  day  at  Butiti,  where  the  Missions 
(Protestant  and  Roman  Catholic)  were  abundantly  hospitable. 
The  camp  was  protected  by  a  strong  palisade  guarded  by 
sentinels,  and  gi'eat  fires  were  kindled  all  around.  Occasional 
roars  heard  distinctly  through  tlie  silence  of  the  night  showed 
that  these  precautions  were  far  from  superfluous.  Two  weeks 
later,  at  Misonga,  not  far  from  Butiti,  a  lion  made  its  way  into 
Cagni's  camp  and  succeeded  in  escaping  unharmed,  thanks 
to  the   darkness  of  the  night. 

On  the  following  morning.  May  29th,  about  an  hour  and 
a-half  from  Butiti,  the  Prince  and  his  companions  climbed  a  hill 
close  to  the  path  in  order  to  get   another  look  at  Ruwenzori, 

93 


Chapter  111. 

which  was  here  visible  in  all  its  splemlour.  They  liad  now 
come  further  north-west,  and  hence  the  northernmost  group 
of  the  chain  appeared  iiearer  to  the  central  group,  which 
from  this  point  also  appeared  to  be  the  liighest  of  all,  and  to 
show  the  greatest  extent  of  glacier. 

The  sky  was  clear  over  the  mountains  to  westwaixl,  but  dark 
and  stormy  in  the  east.  Eight  and  left  stretched  au  imdulating 
plain  with  low  rounded  hills,  reddish  or  earthy  yellow,  dotted 
with  dark  green  patches  of  euphorbia,  or  of  the  light  and  finely 
cut  foliage  of  the  acacia.  Farther  oft',  the  landscape  melted 
into  the  misty  distance,  and  finally  vanished  from  sight  near 
the  foot  of  the  mighty  spurs  of  the  range. 

Moore  was  reminded  in  these  regions  of  the  Alps  as  seen 
from  the  Piedmontese  or  Lombard  Plains,  but  the  comparison 
does  not  hold  good.  The  dift'erence  is  profound,  although  so 
siibtle  as  to  baffle  analysis.  It  is  true  that  the  far-(jft'  slopes 
clad  with  elephant  grass,  and  the  swamps  hidden  imder  tufted 
papyrus  resenible  our  hills  and  our  cultivated  valleys.  There  is 
no  definite  sign  to  indicate  that  those  far-off"  plains,  Avhich  to 
all  appearance  might  consist  of  meadows  and  cornfields,  maize 
plantations  and  orchards,  are  in  reality  the  lair  of  elephants, 
buffaloes,  antelopes  and  lions.  Yet  still  the  picture  is  in  a 
different  key,  with  a  grim  solemnity  of  its  own.  The  likeness  is 
the  fruit  rather  of  a  mental  comparison  than  of  a  real,  direct 
impression  from  Nature.  Signs  of  the  handiwork  of  man  are 
nearly  totally  absent.  The  huts  of  the  natives,  tlieir  banana 
groves  and  their  simple  crops  are  only  just  visible  on  closer 
inspection  of  the  landscape,  of  which  they  form  an  insignificant 
detail,  hardly  touching  its  virgin  and  primitive  aspect. 

A  little  further  on  the  party  crossed  their  last  forest,  the 
finest  of  all  that  had  lain  across  their  path,  and  swarming  with 

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FOREST    BETWEEN'    BVTITI    AND    FORT    I'ORTAL. 


TROPICAL  FOREST  NEAR  FORT  PORTAL 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

monkeys.  After  a  long  inarch  of  seven  liours  thev  reached 
Fort   Portal   on   the  same   day. 

On  approaching  Fort  Portal,  H.K.H.  was  received  hy  tlie 
KiniT  of  Toro,  Kasao'ama,  a  handsome  man.  al)ove  the  averaov 
stature,  with  an  o])en  and  intelligent  countenance.  He  was 
accompanied  hy  a  large  escort  carrying  numerous  gifts. 
After  crossing  the  helt  of  cultivated  fields  around  the  city, 
they  entered  the  wide,  clean  street  of  Toro  hlazing  witii 
smi,  and  flanked  on  either  side  hv  the  chiefs  of  the  i-egion 
wlio  had  come  with  escorts  to  receive  the  e.xpedition.  The 
street  was  crammed  with  people,  and  e.speciallv  witli  noisv 
children. 

Fort  Portal  was  founded  in  181M  hv  <_  apt.  Lngard  after  he 
h;id  deposed  Kaharega,  who  was  an  allv  of  Mwanga  in  liis 
revolt,  and  had  set  Kasagama  upon  the  throne  in  his  place, 
thus  ending  a  period  of  frightful  persecutions  and  raids  which 
had  nearly  depopulated  the  counlrv.  The  site  of  Fort 
Portal  is  very  liealthv.  It  stands  at  a  height  of  5,000  feet 
above  the  sea.  in  a  hasin  hounded  to  tlii^  \\est  hv  the  range 
of  l{u\\enzori,  winch  slojies  do\\  n  towards  Lake  Albert  in  a 
long  chain  of  gradually  lessening  spm\s,  and  to  the  east  hy 
the  hills  which  divide  the  basin  of  Lake  Alhert  Edward  from 
th;it  of  Lake  Albert.  Of  the  great  range  tady  the  highest 
points  are  visible,  wlieu  l)y  exception  they  are  not  covered  with 
clouds,  above  an  advanced  buttress  known  as  the  Portal  Peaks. 
To  the  north-west,  at  tlie  foot  of  the  mountains,  are  scattered 
volcanic  cones  amonii-  wliit-li  lie  numerous  small  crater  lakes. 

The  European  re.sidents  of  Fort  Portal,  including  ladies, 
are  scarcely  fifteen  in  number.  They  consist  of  tlie  Suh- 
Conmiissioner,  the  Collector,  the  (/ommander  of  the  troops, 
and    the  ('atholic  and   Protestant  Missionaries.      Tlie  dwellings 

97  II 


Chapter  HI. 

of  tlie  Ena,'lisli  (>ttiei:ils,  includini;'  tlu'  residence  of  tlie 
S\il)-( 'oinmissioiier,  siiiToiiiuled  hy  a  hedge  and  a  palisade, 
stand  upon  a  liill.  Upon  tiie  neigliV)ourin>;-  liills  are  tlie 
Missions  and  tlu-  Hospital.  Upon  another  hill  to  the  south- 
east, covei'ed  with  extensive  haiiana  j)lant;itions,  are  situated 
the    dwellings    of    the    King    of    Tore.       On    the    low    ground 


THE    CARAVAN    ON    T)IE    IIAKC'II. 


hetween  the  hills  stand  the  shops,  like  those  of  Kampala,  in 
long  lines  on  either  side  of  a  A\i(le  avenue  planted  w  ith  trees. 
There  are  also  barracks  for  native  troops,  and  the  usual  market. 
There  are  many  natives  here  of  the  Baliima  tribe.  These  are 
handsome  people,  alleged  to  be  of  Ethiopian  origin,  tall  of 
stature,   slender    of   figure,    \\ith    finelv   ]iroportioned    lind)s,    a 


9S 


From  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal. 

somewhat  liirhter  colour  than  tht^  Bauanda,  and  leuiilar  features 
similar  to  those  of  the  white  races.  They  are  all  shepherds  ; 
thev  wear  a  cloak  of  skins,  and  speak  a  language  of  tlieir  own. 
The  jjure  type  is  growing  i-are  on  account  of  tliPir  mingling 
with  tlie   Baganda  tribes. 

The  expedition  was  hospitably  entertained  in  Fort  Portal 
at  the  residence  of  Mr.  J.  O.  Haldane,  tlie  Collector.  Tlie 
portei-s  encamped  on  the  low  ground  at   the  foot   of  the   hill. 


00 


CHAPTER  IV. 
From  Foht  Portal  to  Bujoxgolo — Mobuku  Yallky. 

Two  <lays  at  Fort  Portal — Meeting  with  Dr.  \Viilliistoii — Ilesitaticni  aliimt  the 
Koute — Departure  from  Fort  Portal — Duwoiia — Ford  of  the  Wimi  Piver — 
Kasoiigo — The  Peaks  of  Kuwenzori  once  more  in  sight — Entrance  into  the 
Mobuku  Vallej'  —  Ihanda  —  The  Duwoiii  of  Johnston  —  Bihnnga  —  Mahoma 
Valley  —  The  Moraine  of  Xakitawa  —  Discovery  of  the  Kujuku  Vallej- — 
Bakonjo  Porters — Crossing  the  Swamp — Kichuehu — The  Heath  Forest — The 
Flowery  Plain  of  P.uamlia — Bujongolo — An  Icy  Night  on  the  Equator. 


The  expedition  spent  two  wliole 
days  at  Foi't  Portal  with  l)ad 
weather  and  clouded  sky.  In  spite 
of  these  tnifavourable  conditions, 
tlie  Duke  was  able  to  complete  some 
astronomical  ohservatlons.  An  inter- 
mediate meteorolooieal  station  was 
established  at  Fort  Portal.  The 
observations  taken  liere  Avere  to  be 
compared  later  on  both  witli  those 
subsequently  to  be  taken  at  Entebbe, 
on     Lake    Victoria,    and    among    the 

mountains,  in  tiie  valleys  and  on  the  sunnnits,  in  order  to  supph' 

full  data  for  an  exact  calculation  of  altitudes. 

At   Fort  Portal,  the  })arty  had   the  pleasure  of  making  the 

acquaintance  of    the   Rev.    A.    B.   Fi.sher    and   of    Mrs.   Fisher, 

wlio   had   twice    ascended    the   Mobuku   Valley   as   far    as   the 

100 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Biijougolo — Mobuku  \'alley. 

glacier.  Anotlier  interesting  and  pleasant  acquaintance  was 
that  of  the  Alpine  cHniher,  Mr.  A.  F.  WoUaston,  who  luul  left 
the  British  Musemu  p]xpedition  for  a  few  days  iipon  the 
invitation  of  the  SuI)-(Jonin)issioner,  Mr.  Knowles,  and  had 
come  down   to  Fort   Portal  on   purpose  to  meet   the  Prince. 


ON  TiiK  rrni.if  s(,irAKE,  fokt  poutai.. 

As  was  nientiont-d  in  ('liapter  1,  in  the  months  innuediatelv 
preceding  tlie  arrival  of  the  Italian  Expedition,  WoUaston  had 
made  the  ascent  of  some  of  the  peaks  at  the  head  of  the 
Mobuku  Yallev,  from  the  top  of  which  he  h,id  luade  out 
through  the  mist  two  other  snowv  simimits  to  the  north-east, 
hisjher  tlian  those  which  he  liad  ascended  and  seeminsj:  to  rise 
above  tlie  western  slopes  of  the  chain  towards  the  Congo. 
He  had  not  been  able  to  make  out  whether  these  hiirher 
nwuntains  were  connected  with  the  peaks  of  the  Mobuku 
Valley. 

lul 


Chapter  IV. 

The  mountains  seen  and  diawn  by  Stulihnann  at  tin-  head 
of  the  Butagn  Valley  to  the  west  of  the  chain  wtmld  not,  in 
this  case,  have  been  the  same  as  those  seen  from  the  east, 
which  the  Italian  expedition  had  observed  from  Kaibo  and 
Butiti.  It  seemed,  therefore,  a  l)etter  plan  to  attempt  the 
ascent  from  the  western  slope. 

These  accounts  perplexed  the  Duke  greatly.  If,  on  the  one 
baud,  lie  followed  the  route  of  bis  predecessors  up  the  Mohuku 
Valley  there  was  the  risk,  on  leaching  tlie  peaks  at  the  liead 
of  the  vallev.  of  seeing  liis  wav  to  tlie  liiii'lier  sununits  cut  off  bv 
some  deep  valley  or  insuperable  ridge.  If,  on  the  other  hand, 
he  sliould  resolve  to  try  the  western  slopes,  it  would  l)ecome 
necessarv  to  make  a  loni>'  detour  across  the  low  reoions,  throusb 
malarial   districts,  in    order   to   turn   tlie   southern  end    of  the 


XATI\K    HUT. 


chain  and  reach  the  Sendiki  Vallev.  Here,  there  would  be 
uncertainty  as  to  the  sufRciencv  of  local  resoiu'ces  to  feed  so 
numerous   an   expedition,   and    still    greater    uncertainty   as    to 

10:.' 


From  Fort  Portal  to   lUijongolo — Mobukii  Valley. 

the  disposition  of  the  natives,  who  were  known  to  l)e  fre([npntly 
hostile  and  turbulent  in  the  Congo  District. 

Of"  the  two  alternatives  the  latter  seemed  certainly  ti>  ofi'er 
the    more    serious    risks.      The    Duke    of   the    Abruzzi    decided 


JIAUKKT,    FORT    PORTAl,. 


therefore  to  follow  the  more  direct  and  shorter  loute,  ascending' 
tJie  Mobuku  Vallev  and  arri\iug  comparatively  quickly  among 
tlie  liigh  mountains,  where  it  would  be  possible  to  obtain  data 
for  forming  a  decision  as  to  the  futmv  route. 

The  two  davs  at  P\)rt  Portal  liad  hern  davs  of  complete 
idleness  for  the  nati\e  porters,  and  liad  been  suthcient  to 
undermine  and  V)reak  up  the  discipliuc  to  which  thev  had 
become  accustomed  during  their  two  weeks  of  steady  work. 
When  the  drum  and  tin-  trumjiets  soiuidt'd  the  reveille  at 
4.30  a.m.,  June  1st,  not  one  of  the  whole  troop  was  ready. 
Boys  antl  porters  dropped  in  late,  one  by  one,  and  it  took 
over  two  hours   to  get   the  caravan  into  marching  order.     At 

103 


Cliapter  IV. 

last  it  stiu'ted,  witli  tlir  usual  sliouts,  preceded  by  the  Eni;lisli 
and  Italian  flags. 

The  bao-iraii-e  was  already  diminished  by  the  rations 
consumed  during  the  preceding  fortnight.  It  was  now  fiu-ther 
reduced  l)v  a  number  of  personal  ettects  which  were  left  l)eliind 
at  Fort  Portal.  ( 'onsequently,  a  portion  of  tlie  porters  had 
been  dismissed,  and  tliose  retained  were  selected  among  the 
strongest  and  healthiest. 

The  Prince  was  accompanied  on  his  start  from  Fort  Portal  by 
Mr.    Knowles,   the  folleetor.   Mr.    Haldane  and   Mr.   WoUaston, 


HU.l.S    XEAU    FORT    P()I1T.\L. 


who  was  on  his  way  to  rejoin  the  British  Museum  Expedition 
in  the  Nyamwamba  Valley. 

An  escort  of  twenty  native  soldiers  accompanied  the  caravan. 
Their  wives  had  come  to  bid  them  farewell.     The  form  of  their 


104 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — -]\Iobuku  Valley. 

leave-taking  was  as  sober  and  dignified  as  jiossible  :  t^acli 
woman  knelt  before  lier  husband,  who  placed  one  hand  n}»i>n 
her  head. 

As  has  been  said.  Fort   Portal  is  situated  upon   the   heights 
whicli   divide    the    basin    of   Lake    Ali)ert    from    that    of   Lake 


FORT    ruKTAL. 

Albert  Edwai-d.  The  latter  is  connected  1)V  a  short,  narrow 
watercourse  with  Lake  Dueru  or  Kuisaiiilia.  which  lies  in  the 
liollow  called  "  Albertine  Valley."  at  the  foot  of  tlie  eastern  slope 
of"  liuwenzori,  and  receives  all  the  waters  wliich  flow  down 
from  the  ciiain  on  that  side.  To  reach  the  Mobuku  Valley 
the  path  skirts  tlie  u])per  l)asin  of  Lake  Ruisamba  witliout 
descendinir  to  the  lake,  runnin"-  first  alona:  tlie  hills  which 
form  the  watershed,  and  then  following  the  eastern  foot  of  the 


10.5 


Chapter  I\'. 

cliaiii  til  nil  iiortli  to  soiitli.  and  crossing  the  lower  course  of 
the  vallevs  ami  torrents  wliieh   nm  down  from  the  I'icloes. 

The  couiitiv  is  fertile  and  well-watered,  l)ut  Nery  sparsely 
cultivated  excepting  in  tlie  neighbourhood  of  Fort  Portal. 
The  population  is  wretched  and  unhealthy  looking.  The  path, 
now  a  mere  track,  now  widenino;  out  into  a  road,  is  in  mauA' 
places  a  true  mountain  trail,  which  would  be  extremely 
fatiguing  and  even  ditheult  were  it  not  kept  up  with  great 
care.  Natives  are  to  be  met  at  every  step,  especially  women 
and  old  men.  emiiloved  in  mendin"-  and  weedino-  it.  The 
Avomen.  as  usual,  earrv  their  babies  on  their  back  or  at  their 
lireast  and  keep  their  larger  children  by  them.  Children 
and  .adults  are  absolutely  naked,  or  else  wetir  rags  or  skins 
around  the  loins.  The  women  adoi'u  themselves  with  bracelets 
or.  lacking  these,  tie  rings  of  twisted  banana  leaves  round  their 
arms  and  ankles. 

The  way  lietween  Fort  Portal  and  tlie  Mobuku  Valley  was 
traversed  in  tluee  stages.  After  leaving  the  European  station 
the  patli  tirst  descends  over  the  wide  road  of  the  Mpango 
Vallev  and  crosses  the  river  on  a  wooden  bridge.  Next,  it 
ascends  to  the  Roval  Hill,  where  King  Kasagama,  surrounded 
by  his  whole  ct)urt,  waited  for  H.R.H.  Another  brief  halt  was 
made  at  Notre-Dame  de  la  Neige  to  take  leave  of  the  courteous 
Fathers  of  the  French  Mission.  Tall  hedges  run  on  either  side 
of  tlie  path,  which  winds  between  numerous  huts  scattered 
in  fields  of  pease,  millet,  sweet  potatoes  and  tobacco,  and 
extensive  plantain  gi'oves. 

The  wav  now  led  south-west,  making  straight  for  the 
mountains.  Low  hills  were  crossed  l)y  easy  slopes,  and  four 
hours  brought  the  expedition  to  Duwona  camp,  which  stands 
against  the  foot  of  the  mountain  among  blossoming  euphorbia 

106 


From  Fort  Portal  to   Biij()ii<;ol(i — Mobuku  Valley. 

trees.  Below  lies  the  Albertine  Valley,  dotted  Avitli  small 
volcanic  cones.  The  peaks  aho\"e  were  shrovided  in  dark  mist. 
The  rest  of  the  sky  was  clear,  and  the  day  ended  in  a  limpid 
.sunset. 

Chi   till'  t'nnnwini;'  iiKiri luii;'.  the   way  struck  s(iuth\\ard,  tirst 
sku'tuiii-  widp  low  rxliies  co\ered  with   (deiihant  "rass  ;  and  then 


KTM!    KAS.VGAM.V    AND    lUS    CorRT. 


crossing  by  steep  ascents  and  descents  the  foot  of  divers  spurs 
of  tlie  chain.  The  wa\'  skirts  the  mountain  so  clo.sely  that 
the  .snowy  peaks  are  hidden  from  sight.  Niunerous  torrents 
had  to  be  forded.  Onlv  one  of  these  was  of  a  certain  size, 
namely,  the  Wimi,  which,  wlien  swollen,  may  become  a  .serious 
obstacle.       The    expedition    found    it    about    30   feet   wide,   the 

107 


Chapter  IV. 

water  very  cold,  tioiii  two  to  three  feet  deep,  and  the  current 
fau-ly  swift.  A  hue  of  uieu  was  formed  iu  tlie  water,  stretching 
from  one  Ijauk  to  the  other,  aud  the  porters  witli  their  loads 
crossed  up-stream  of  them.      In  this  way  any  man  who  slipped 


^"^^^^^^ 

1 

■ 

^^^^^^^^^^^^v-.                    •m^^HT.^k.r 

1 

" 

^^m  ''^(m 

jfc    .-,            -SttMc^" ' 

ii*- 

^^B,g|jH 

w^i^Sf^ 

a  ^B^' 

1   ^imu 

Mi 

^^^^^i^^S 

■k 

^^gj 

NEAR   FORT    PORTAL. 


or  staggered  was  iuunediately  caught  aud  held  ;  and  in  the 
space  of  al)out  one  hour  the  whole  caravan  was  gathered  on  tlie 
opposite  hank,  Avhich  was  very  steep  aud  coven-d  with  tliick 
grass.      Not  a  single  jjarcel  had  heeu  lost. 

lots 


P'rom  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo— ]Mobuku  ^^alley 


The  camp  of  Kasongo  was  reached  before  noon.  Tliis  canq) 
stands  higli  upon  one  of  the  spurs  of  the  range.  Lake  lluisanil)a 
was  just  visible  through  the  mists  which  hid  the  plain. 

Between  Kasongo  and  the  Mobuku  Vallev  there  was  still 
one  last  valley  to  be  cro.ssed,   known  as  the   Hima. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  camj).  on  the  morning  of  the  ."ird  of 
June,  a  portion  of  tlie  high  chain  appeared  in  sight  to  the  west- 
ward, framed  between  the  sides  of  the  vallevs.  First  appeared 
two  rocky  peaks*  with  a  great  glacier  at  their  feet.  As  the 
expedition  proceeded  southward,  and  went  down  into  the  Vallev 
of  Hima,  these  peaks  were  gradually  hidden  ;  while  to  tlieir 
right,  that  is  northward  ol'  them,  came  into  sight,  liit  bv  bit, 
the  double  peakt  covered  with  .snow,  which,  as  seen  fiom  Kaibo 
and  Butiti,  appeared  to  form  part  of  the  central  group,  and  to 
be  the  highest  of  all. 

Tlie  Hima  Piiver  was  crossed  upon  a  ligiit  bridge,  and  after 
tliis  tlie  [jath  ran  up  the  vallev  for  a  short  distance  westward. 
tliPH  turned  .southward  again  and  ascended  tlie  .slope  of  the 
buttress,  lichiud  which  lav  the  MolnikTi  Vallev.  It  was  still 
early  in  tiip  morning  when  the  expedition  reached  the  top  of 
the  ridge,  and  commenced  to  descend  the  other  slope  into  the 
Mobuku  Valley. 

Meantime  the  peaks  of  liuwenzori  continued  to  come  out 
one  after  another  to  the  westward.  To  the  right  of  the  dou])le 
.snow  peak,  and  separated  from  it  l)y  a  low,  wide  col.  appeared 
another  gi'oup  of  peaks,;};  whicli  extended  north waid  in  the 
shape    of    an    ice  ridge    edged   bv  a    l)ig   coiniice,   under  wliich 


stretched  a  glacier. 


*  Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks  of  the  map. 

f  Alexandra  and  Margherita  Peaks. 

I  Mt.  Spake  (xw  illustrations,  pp.  115-llG). 

109 


Chapter  IV. 

Thus,  :is  the  caiavaii  liail  proceeded  tVoiu  iioitli  to  sovitli.  tlie 
peaks  of  the  chain  had  hecome  visible  in  inverse  order  from 
south  to  north.  In  tliis  way  two  rocky  peaks  had  come  into 
view,  connected  ])y  a  wide  glacier  with  the  twin  peaks  coxered 
with  snow.  These  four  togetlier  foi'med  what  from  Kailjo  and 
Butiti  appeared  as  the  central  group  of  the  chain.*  Next  had 
followed  a  wide  depre.ssion,  after  which  the  ridge  had  risen 
ao-ain    and    formed    two    great    peaks    of    rock    and    ice    wliieli 


ii^  ^ 

^\ 

i 
1 

^ 

t 

^^1 

^  i'jK     '  ^m 

il 

HIf'' 

i 

^S)       ^ 

:     >    ^ 

^^"-s" 

1 

,Jm^    lim  ♦O 

IbJ 

wMMd 

li 

W 

^^^^F^  fi 

1^     -  1 

B|fr— '          «Agf''»E^  ^^mBMBT' 

'-'^M^H 

■-™*^-       "'  '         -   -'^^ 

^™ 

^         \ 

WOMEN    AT   C.\JIP   DUWONA. 


stretched  northward  so  as  to  form  a  long  snowy  crest.  <  »nly 
this  last  group,  which  was,  without  doubt,  the  Duwoni  of 
Sir  Harry  Johnston,  was  visible  from  the  Mobuku  Valley. 


*  Mt.  Stanley. 
110 


From   Fort  Portal  to  Bujongohj — ]\Iobuku  ^"alley. 

The  patli  now  went  down  to  tlie  Moluikii  Ttiver.  wliifli 
flows  in  a  bed  about  25  feet  deep  liollowed  out  tluou^Ii  aiieipiit 
alluvial    deposits.       This    torrent    is    some    (JO    feet    widr.    the 


ACACIAS   0\   THE    KOAD    BETWEEN'    DIJWOXA   AND    KASUXGi  i. 


water  nearly  three  feet  deep,  and  the  current  violent.  The 
water  is  cool,  but  of  a  yellowish  liue,  whicli  does  not  make  it 
attractive  to  drink. 

While  the  caravan  \\as  collecting  on  the  l)ank.  the  chiefs 
of  the  neicrhbovu'inu"  villa!J:es  were  arrivinu"  from  either  side 
of  the  valley,  with  their  attendants  bearing  stools  and  umbrellas 
and  followed  by  troops  of  natives.  They  all  took  part  in 
helping  the  caravan  to  cross  the  ford.  A  rope  was  stretclied 
across    the    current,    and    nmubers    of    natives    took    up    tlieir 

111 


Chapter  IV. 

jiositidiis  l)el(i\\'  tlif  i()})e  to  give  greater  security.  The  porters, 
witli  tlii'ir  loads,  strao'p-led  across  iii)-stream  of  the  cord  and 
holding  hv  it.  Ill  tliis  way  tlie  wliole  jiaitv  was  soon 
reassembled  on  the  other  bank  of  the  Mobiikn  without 
accident  and  resumed  tlieir  way,  now  ascending  the  wide  level 
valley  bottom  as  far  as  the  camp  of  Ibanda. 

Ibanda  (4,540  feet)  stands  upon  the  right  bank  of  the 
Mobuku  River  at  a  point  where  the  valley  widens  into  a  plain 
more  than  one  mile  wide,  sliut   in   bv  rounded   hills  and  covered 


UETWEEX    nUWOX.\    AND    K.VSONGO. 


Axith  deep  grasses  and  a  few  scattered  trees.  A  small  tributary 
valley  opens  near  the  camp.  Further  up,  the  vallev  appears 
to    be    completelv    shut     in   bv    a     high   and    steep    peak   which 

112 


From   Fort  Portal  to  Bnjongolo — Mobuku  Valley. 

forms  one  of  the  Portals.  Beyond  this,  again,  rises  the 
snowy  mountain  which  has  been  already  described,  and  which 
Sir  Harry  Johnston  had  named  Duwoni. 

The  general  trend  of  the  valley  is  from  east  to  west.  Marks 
of  glacial  action  are  evident.  A  little  above  Ibanda,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  valley,  lies  a  stretch  of  mai'giiial  moraine 
about  thirty  yards  deep.  A  number  of  spurs  seem  to  be  tlie 
remains  of  frontal  moraines  cut  oft'  l)v  the  torrent.  There  are 
numerous  boulders  and  round  smooth  rocks  of  the  type 
known  as  moKtonnees.  Finally,  looking  down  the  valley,  a 
transversal  ridge  has  every  appearance  of  a  terminal  moraine. 

Round  about  the  camp  are  numerous  villages  and  plantain 
gi'oves.  The  natives  are  naked,  witli  strings  of  shells  round 
their  loins  from  which  bits  of  clotli  are  suspended. 

At  Ibanda  there  is  not  the  usual  shed  for  eating  under  cover. 
Fortunately  the  weather  was  fine,  and  a  few'  trees  near  to  tlie 
torrent  ofiered  shade  for  the  midday  meal.  Not  a  single  fish 
was  to  be  found,  in  spite  of  long  and  attentive  inspection  of 
the  water. 

The  evening  was  perfectly  clear  anil  the  light  died  away 
slowly.  The  familiar  sound  of  the  torrent  called  to  memory 
(^uiet  evenings  passed  in  some  remote  valley  of  our  own 
Alps.  Below  the  camp  blazed  numerous  fires  which  now  and 
again  seemed  extinguished  and  rekindled  as  the  dark  sliapes  of 
the  natives  flitted  busily  to  and  fro  in  front  of  them.  The 
mountain  walls  of  the  valley  stood  out  clear  on  the  starry  sky. 
The  snows  of  Duwoni  glittered  softly  in   the  bright  starlight. 

The  prospect  seemed  very  hopeful.  The  Italian  expedition 
were  more  fortunate  than  their  predece.ssors  in  the  circumstance 
that,  before  even  reaching  the  feet  of  the  mountains,  they  had 
sight  of  many  peaks,  and  were  able  to  ascertain  the  important 

113  I 


Chapter  IV. 

fact  that  the  double  peak  seen  from  Kaibo  and  Butiti  as  In 
the  centre  of  the  chain  and  appearing  to  be  the  highest  of  all, 
is  not  the  Duwoni  of  Johnston. 


FORD    OF   WlMl    RIVER. 


Leaving  the  camp  of  Ibanda  the  march  followed  rapidly 
across  the  high  plain,  wliich  was  swampy  here  and  there,  with 
groves  of  tall  acacia  and  dracaena  and  dotted  with  round  smooth 
boulders.  Soon  they  reached  the  foot  of  another  buttress,  a  spur 
of  the  right-hand  slope  of  the  valley.  Here  the  path  became  so 
steep  at  some  points  that  even  those  who  had  no  load  to  carry 
got  out  of  bi'eath.  The  natives,  who  during  the  first  part  of 
the  stage  kept  up  their  usual  cheerful  hubbub,  now  l)ecame 
silent  as  they  panted  up  the  wearisome  ascent,  and  scattered 
far  and  wide,  covering  a  long  reach  of  the  way. 

114 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujougolo — ^lobuku  Valley. 

As  the  valley  rises  it  puts  on  little  by  little  a  grim  and 
mysterious  aspect.  The  forbidding  precipices  of  the  Portal 
peaks  seem  absolutely  to  close  its  deep  western  recesses. 

About  half-way  up  the  spur  is  a  narrow  grassy  ledge,  where 
are  perched  a  few  native  huts.  These  are  the  last  human 
habitations  of  this  valley.  Beyond  everything  is  desert.  The 
place  is  called  Bihunga,  1,760  feet  above  Ibanda,  and  6,300  feet 
above  the  sea.      Here  the  British  Museum  Expedition  had  spent 


Alexandra  and  Margherita  Peaks. 


Mt.  Speke. 


THE   SX(J\V    I'EAKS   OF   RUWENZORI,    SEEX    FROM    THE   HIMA    VALLEY. 


several  months  in  collecting  material  for  research.      A  spacious 
hut  still  stood  as  a  record  of  its  sojourn. 

The    tents    were    pitched    around   this  hut    witli    difficulty, 

11.5 


I  2 


Chapter  IV. 

owing  to  the  small  space  of  level  ground  available.      The  ])orters 
encamped  as  best  they  could  on  the  steep  slope. 

The  view  of  the  mountains  was  entirely  cut  otf  by  the  spur 
upon  which  the  camp  stood.      On  the  other  side  they  overlooked 


MT.    SPEKE   (the   DUWONI   OF    JOHNSTON)    SEEN    FROM    THE   LOWER 
MOBUKU    VALr.EY. 

the  plain  of  Ibanda,  and  down   the  wide   valley  till  the   point 

where  everything   disappeared  in  the  misty  atmosphere.      The 

near    hill    sides   were    clad    with     dense    forest    diversified    by 

small   clearings   covered  with   deep  grass.       There  was  scarcely 

any  sign  of  animal  life.     Near  the  camp  they  saw  lobelias  for  the 

first  time.     There  were  many  dracsenas,  and  a  most  beautiful 

erithryna  covered  with  flame-coloured  blossoms.     A  narrow  strip 

of  small   cultivated   fields  surrounds  the  tiny  village,  which  is 

inhabited  by  a  few  Bakonjos,  naked  in  sjiite  of  the  cold  of  this 

hiffh  reffion. 

116 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bnjoii<rolo — ]\Iobiikn  Valley 


At  Bihuiioja  the  Duke  beo^an  to  reduce  the  number  of 
bis  caravan.  Henceforward  the  way  was  to  lead  tbrouo-lj 
uninhabited  regions  where  the  commissariat  would  offer 
increasing  difficulties.  An  agreement  was  entered  into  with 
the  chiefs  of  the  villages  around  Ibanda  by  which  they  were 
to  send  parties  of  porters  regularly  up  the  valley  with  provisions. 
In  addition  to  the  limited  uatvue  of  the  resources  of  so 
small  a  district,  the  actual  distance  to  cross  and  the  difficulty 
of  the  marches  would  increase  as  the  expedition  jjroceeded 
upwards. 


KiiKD    (IF    MOJliTKU    HIVEli. 


They  left    heliind    at    Bihungu    a    portion    ot    the   baggage, 
consisting    of    some    forty    loads,    including    all    those    personal 

117 


Chapter  IV. 

effects  which  became  iinnecessary  in  the  cold  climate  of  the 
high  mountains,  and  a  number  of  the  boys  were  also  dispensed 
with.  These,  as  well  as  tlie  supertluous  porters,  went  back  to 
Butannka,  a  village  half-way  ])etween  the  Mobuku  Valley  and 


FORD    OF   MOBl'KU   RIVER. 


Fort  Portal,  which  now  Ijecame  the  halting-place  for  all  the 
Baganda  who  were  sent  back  from  the  mountains.  Last,  but 
not  least,  the  twenty  native  soldiers  of  the  escort,  commanded 
by  Sergeant  Green,  remained  at  Bihunga,  where  they  formed  a 
link  between  the  expedition  and  the  lower  valley.  The  portion 
of  the  supplies  and  equipment  which  was  left  behind  was 
sheltered  in  the  liut  of  the  British  Museum  Expedition. 

On  the  morning  of  the  5th  of  June,  the  caravan  again 
set  out  upon  its  wav.  An  extremely  narrow  and  very  steep 
path    through    tliick    brushwood    and    thorny    branches,   which 

118 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo  — ^lobuku  Valley. 

SCTatched  the  face  and  hands  of  the  travellers,  led  up  the 
spur  of  Bihunga,  and  then  crossed  the  tiny  Chawa  Valley 
and  redescended  into  the  Valley  of  Mahoma,  an  important 
tributary  on  the  right  hand  of  the  Mobuku. 

The  descent  was  steep,  through  a  dense  forest  of  tall  trees 
which  climbed  high  up  on  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  valley. 
Nunierous  specimens  of  a  tine  conifer,  the  podocarpus,  were 
overgrown  with  a  tangle  of  creeping  plants  diversified  with 
brilliant  orchids.  Under  the  trees  was  a  dense  leafy  under- 
growth mingled  with  ferns  of  numerous  species,  forming  so 
impenetrable  a  brushwood  tliat  the  path  became  a  veritable 
tunnel,  where  one  had  to  walk  bent  double  for  long  tracts. 
The  bushes  and  creeping  plants  covered  many  fallen  tree-trunks, 
from  the  rich  soil  under  which  numerous  specimens  were  added 
to  the  zoological  collections.  The  ground  was  very  damp,  in 
many  places  soaking,  and  extremely  slippery,  and  the  porters 
had  difticulty  in  keeping  their  feet.  The  way  ran  through  the 
forest  as  far  as  the  banks  of  the  Mahoma. 

Once  the  torrent  cro,ssed,  the  path  wound  among  ferns  and 
tree-ferns  of  several  varieties  up  a  slope  so  steep  as  to  be 
extremely  laborious  for  the  porters,  who  marched  disbanded 
and  very  slowly.  At  a  certain  point  of  altitude  the  first 
bamboos  and  heaths  appeared  among  the  ferns.  The  gi'ound 
was  slippery  and  muddy,  and  scattered  with  rocks  of  every 
dimension. 

This  slope  is  merely  a  great  lateral  moraine  of  the  glacier 
which  once  flowed  down  the  valley  and  probably  covered  the 
whole  plain  of  Ibanda.  It  is  unaccoiuitable  that  tlie  real 
nature  of  this  ridge  should  have  escaped  the  notice  of  so 
many  previous  explorers  of  the  Mobuku  Valley.  A  corre- 
sponding   and     parallel    moraine    runs    along    the    opposite    or 

119 


Chapter  IV. 

lef't-haud  side  of  tlie  valley.  The  Mobiiku  torrent  roars  more 
than  600  feet  below  in  the  deep  and  jn-ecipitons  gorge  where 
it  has  cut  a  channel  through  the  detritus,  Avliile  the  blocks 
and  jjebbles  of  the  moraine  formation  are  quite  plainly  visible 
in  section  on  the  deeply  cut  sides. 

The  trees  now  grew  denser  and  denser  Tuitil,  on  the  top  of 
tlie  moraine,  the  path  once  more  entered  the  forest.  For 
some  distance  the  way  followed  the  crest  of  the  moraine,  in 
many  places  less  than  a  yard  wide,  until  it  reached  a  gigantic 
boulder  of  gneiss  about  :10  feet  long,  and  from  18  to  20  feet 
high,  near  A\'liich  stood  a  little  straw-roofed  shed  quite  crooked 
and  propped  up  by   a  few  piles  driven   into   the  earth.      This 


I  CAN  DA. 


is  the  camp  of  NakitaA\a.  On  every  side  stretched  the 
forest  of  tall  tre(-s  witli  tiie  dense  In'ushwond  beneath. 
Hours    of    hard    work     were     recpiired    to     cut     doAxii     enough 

120 


From  Fort  Portal  to   liujon^olo — ]\lobukii   \  alley. 

bruslnvood  and  trees  to  make  room  for  the  seven  tents.  At 
the  foot  of  tlie  l^onlder  tlie  natives  crowdeil  armmd  the  kitchen 
place.       Tliis    camp    is    8.7(MJ    feet     aljove    tlie    sea-level.       In 


THE    PORTAL    PE.iKS   OX    THE   WAY    UP   TO    BniUN(;A. 

spite  of  occasional  descents  a  rise  of  2,400  feet  had  been 
acconi^jlished  in  one  march.  Diuint;-  the  Avliole  afternoon  the 
porters  ke])t  di-opping  in,  one  hv  one.  tired  out  with  the  hard 
day's  journey.  Tlie  Baganda  are  a  people  of  the  plains,  and 
evidently  incapable  of  enduring  the  fatigue  of  mountain 
niarclies.  It  had  now  become  obviously  necessary  to  replace  them 
by  Bakoiiji),  who  are  acclimatized  to  this  vallcv  and  accustomed 
to  climb  its  slopes  in  the  chase  jifter  marmots  and  hyrax. 

Every  slope  in  sight  was  coverefl  hv  the  forest.  It  was  a 
.scene  of  vira;in  and  untouched  Nature.  Tiie  resfions  inhabited 
bv  man   had   l)een   indeed  l^ft   ])eliind. 

121 


Chapter  IV. 

Near  Nakitawa,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Mahoma  Valley,  the 
ancient  moraines  of  the  two  valleys  meet  and  unite  together. 
In  the  corner  formed  by  the  meeting  of  the  left  moraine  of 
Mahoma  with  the  right  moraine  of  Mobuku  lies  a  little  lake, 
which  was  visited  subsequently  by  the  expedition  on  their 
return  journey. 

The  j^eaks  of  the  Portal  group  soar  up  over  tlie  left  side  of 
the  valley  exactly  o}){M)site  this  camp.  The  two  southernmost 
of  these  peaks  stand  like  giant  sentries  on  either  side  of  the 
entrance  of  another  great  valley  which  liere  opens  into  the 
Mobuku. 


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The  discovery  of  this  important  triliutary  valley,  over- 
looked by  all  the  previous  explorers,  pemiitted  the  Diike  to 
arrive  from  the  first  at  certain  vital  conclusions  regarding  the 
position  of  the  peaks. 

122 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — Mobuku  Valley. 

It  was,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  throTigli  the  opening  of  this 
new  valley  and  above  its  head  that  the  expedition  had  seen 
the  Duwoni  of  Johnston  from  Ibanda.  Tn  consequence  it 
became    evident    that    this    nimintain    does    not    stand    at    the 


inLLSmi:,    BELOW    EimXCA. 


head  of  the  Molinku  Vallev.  Fuithcniiore.  comparing  the 
aspect  of  the  chain  as  seen  from  Kaihn  and  Bntiti  with  the 
successive  sight  of  tlu-  swingle  peaks,  as  descried  in  crossing  tlie 
Hima  Valley  between  Kasongo  and  Ihanda,  and  subseqiu'utly 
in  descending  into  the  Molniku  Valley,  it  had  become  (piite 
{)lain  that  the  peaks  and  glaciers  of  tlie  liigliest  central  group 

123 


Chapter  IV. 

were  to  the  south  of  Duuoui.  Consequently  the  wliule  of  this 
group  must  stand  l)et\veen  Duwoni  and  the  Mobuku  Valley. 

Hence  it  seemed  ol)vious  tiuit  the  newly  discovered  valley 
must  lead  into  the  very  heart  of  the  chain  and  penetrate 
amono-st  its  liiohest  peaks  f;ir  more  directlv  tlian  the  Mohukn 
Valley. 

Owino-  however,  to  the  absence  of  all  accoimts  of  this 
vallev  and  tlie  uncertainty  as  to  whether  it  was  accessible 
up  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  H.E..H.  decided  to  continue 
on  the  road  followed  by  preceding  explorers,  so  as  to  lose  no 
time  in  reaching  some  high  })oint  whence  he  might  be  able  to 
judge  of  the  relative  positions  of  the  peaks  and  valleys. 

The  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  preserved  the  name  of  BujukTi 
for  tlie  newly  discovered  vallev,  this  beino-  the  name  l)v  which 
it  was  known  to  the  inhabitants  of  Ibanda. 

For  five  successive  days  the  weather  had  been  unusually  fine 
for  these  regions,  nor  were  they  again  to  enjoy  .so  long  a 
period  of  uninterrupted  clear  sky  during  the  whole  campaign, 
except  quite  at  the  last  when  they  were  on  the  point  of  leaving 
the  mountains.  On  the  morning  of  the  ()th  of  June,  with  the 
dawn,  a  tine  rain  was  falling  from  the  grey  cloudy  sky. 

Provisions  were  expected  by  porters,  who  only  arrived  at  about 
seven  o'clock  and  consisted  of  eighty  Bakonjos.  These  are  tall 
men  of  robust  habit,  with  somewhat  prominent  jaw,  their  hair  is 
either  shaven  or  disposed  in  strange  fashion,  and  they  frequently 
wear  a  small  beard.  Tiieir  skin  is  tanned  by  the  sun,  the  rain, 
and  the  cold,  and  is  liard  and  rough  as  leather.  They  wear  a 
piece  of  cloth  banging  from  the  loins,  bracelets  of  metal  or  cord 
round  their  arms  and  legs,  and  a  fur  pouch  suspended  from  the 
neck  for  pipe  and  tobacco.  Some  wear  a  leopard  skin  over 
their  shoulders,  or  a  cloak  made  of  rabbit  pelts  (hvrax)  stitched 

124 


o 


s 


From  Fort  Poital  to   Bujongolo — Mobuku  Valley. 

together.  There  are  no  converts  among  them.  They  carry 
long  staves  on  their  marcli  and  use  tliem  with  great  skill  in 
the  difficult  places.  These  eighty  men  were  now  kept  to 
replace  half  of  the  Baganda  porters  who  were  at  once  sent 
down.  Everything  was  set  in  order.  The  men  were  refreshed 
with  food,  and  at  last  the  expedition  started  at  about  eight 
o'clock. 

After    Nakitawa    the    path,    now   reduced  to  a    mere   trail, 
descends    from    the    ])row    of   the    moraine,    skirting    its    slope 


BIHUXGA. 


through  -bamboos  and  creeping  plants,  to  the  bottom  of  the 
valley  which  here  opens  out  into  a  plain.  The  way  now  leads 
across  this  terrace  to  the  Mobukii  torrent,  here  so  small  that 


Uo 


Chapter  lY. 

it  can  ])e  crossed  dry-shod,  leaping  from  stone  to  stone.  A 
tree  trunk  thrown  across  the  stream  made  the  passage  easier 
for  the  porters. 

The  enoi'mous  difference  in  the  vohnne  of  tlie  Mobuku  River 
at   Ibanda   and   above  Nakitawa  must   be  speciallv  due  to    the 


FOREST   ABOVE    BmUXGA. 

influx  of  the  Bujuku  River  below  the  latter  point,  and  points 
to  the  conclusion  that  the  supposed  tributary  is  really  the  more 
important  of  tlie  two  rivers. 

The  flat  valley  bottom  is  a  lake  of  mud  upon  which  grows 
a  forest,  nearly  entirely  composed  of  bamboos.  The  path 
is  all  water  and  mud.  You  sink  in  to  the  knee.  Under  the 
mud  the  foot  meets  with  stones  or  pieces  of  wood,  or  is  caught 
in  a  creeper  or  a  fallen  trimk,  making  it  necessary  to  grasp  the 

126 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo — ^Mobuku  Valley, 

surrcnnifling  bushes,  frequently  thorny,  so  as  not  to  lose 
balance.  Little  by  little  you  learn  to  take  precautions  in 
■walking,  to  recognize  the  points  likely  to  aftbrd  solid 
foothold ;  to  proceed  now  by  jumps  and  again  by  placing 
one  foot  to  the  right  and  the  other  to  the  left  of  the  path, 
perching  upon  stones  or  upon  roots  whicli  rise  above  the 
mud   or   upon  fallen  branches  of  trees,  or  again  by  preserving 


FOREST   AT   THE    MOUTH   OF   THE    MAHOMA. 


your  equilibrium  along  a  fallen  tree-trunk.  But,  even  so, 
you  frequently  become  entangled  or  get  stuck,  and  seek 
solace  in    expletives    which  are  more  energetic  and  expressive 


than    elegant. 


Meantime,     rain    began    to    fall    lieavily,    and 


Chapter  IV. 

from  tlie  bamboos,  from  the  heaths,  from  the  tall  ferns, 
and  from  all  the  leafage  of  the  forest,  a  chillv  drip  fell 
ceaselessly  njioii    the   travellers. 

Bedaubeil    with     mud     from     head     to     foot,    their     clothes 


TREE  -  FEI!.\8. 


soaked  in  water,  after  crossing  the  valley  as  far  as  its  left 
slope,  the  expedition  reached  the  foot  of  a  high  overhanging 
cliff  at  the  bottom  of  a  short  vallev  shut  in  bv  a  moraine. 
This  was  the  so-called  Kichuchu  C'amp,  at  a  height  of 
9,833  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and  1,133  feet  above  Nakitawa. 
The  rocky  wall  forms  a  shelter  over  a  narrow  strip,  where 
vou  are  indeed  protected  from  the  pouring  rain,  but  where 
the  soil  is  soaked  with  the  water  which  drips  off  the  rock 
upon    it.      Here    there  was   room    for  a   single   tent  only.      All 

128 


.;^^'%^^ 


:#"**..  ■^.^.  X 


\V*'  ■'  ♦^ 


■V-''™'  t-p  '-'y  •»? 


<l 


r/z/r  MOB  UK  u  river  in  the  heath  forest 


From  Fort  Portal  to  13ujongolo— Mobuku  Valley. 

around  was  deep  mud.  Branches  and  tree  trunks  spread 
upon  the  ground  formed  a  platform  large  enough  to  admit 
of  two  more  tents.  It  took  many  hours'  hard  lahour  In 
the  mud  and  under  the  rain  before  tlie  camp  could  be  got 
ready. 

Such  firewood  as  could  be  collected  in  the  innnediate 
neighbourhood  was  scarce,  and  the  fires  insufficient.  The 
remaining  Baganda  porters,  tired,  discouraged,  and  shivering 
witli  cold  were  evidently  incapable  of  proceeding  any  further. 
They  were  therefore  all  sent  back  with  the  boys  to 
Butanuka,  thence  to  join  their  comrades  who  had  been 
dismissed  from  Bihunga  and  Nakitawa.  Henceforward  the 
expedition  proceeded  with  the  Bakonjo  only,  leaving  a  number 
of  loads  behind  to  be  sent  for  later  as  required. 

The  Kichuchu  shelter  stands  upon  a  plateau  which  forms 
the  first  of  a  series  of  three  terraces,  all  soaked  with  stagnant 
water  and  divided  one  from  another  by  cliffs  some  600  feet 
to  1,000  feet  high.  The.se  three  terraces  form  the  u^oper 
Mobuku  Valley.  Above  Kichuchu  the  way  suddenly  grows 
steep,  and  mounts  by  a  narrow  natural  ledge  in  the  rock  of 
a  spur  about  900  feet  high,  belonging  to  the  southernmost 
peak  of  the  Portal  group. 

At  the  narrowest  and  most  difficult  points  of  this  rocky 
ledge  the  climb  is  facilitated  by  wooden  steps.  The  path  is 
so  steep  that  you  have  to  climb  with  hands  and  feet,  clutching 
the  few  creeping  plants  and  shrubs  which  grow  within  reach. 
The  last  bit  is  less  steep,  but  is  again  a  mass  of  mud,  stones 
and  roots. 

The  svmirait  is  at  last  reached.  Tiiis  is  tlie  brow  of  the 
second  plateau  of  the  valley,  and  here  one  of  the  nrost  singular 
sights  seen  in  all  the  journey  awaited  the  expedition. 

129  K 


Cliapter  IV. 

The  plateau  is  completely  covered  by  a  great  forest  of  tree 
heaths.  In  this  forest  trunks  and  boughs  are  entirely  smothered 
in  a  thick  layer  of  mosses  which  hang  like  waving  beards  from 
every  spray,   cnsliion   and   englobe  every   knot,   cm-1  and  swell 


KicnrcHU. 

around  each  twig,  deform  every  outline  and  obliterate  every 
feature,  till  the  trees  are  a  mere  mass  of  grotesque  contortions, 
monsti'ous  tumefactions  of  the  discoloured,  le23rous  growtli. 
No  leaf  is  to  be  seen  save  on  the  very  top-most  twigs, 
yet  the  forest  is  dark  owing  to  the  dense  netwoi'k  of  trunks 
and  branches.  The  soil  disappears  altogether  under  innumer- 
able dead  trunks,  heaped  one  upon  another  in  intricate  piles, 
covered  with  mosses,  viscous  and  slippery  where  exposed  to 
the  air  ;  black,  naked,  and  yet  neither  mildewed  nor  rotten 
where  they  have  lain  for  years  and  years  in  deep  holes.  No 
forest  can  be  grimmer  and  stranger  than  this.      The  vegetation. 

130 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Biijongolo — Mobuku  Valley, 

fseenis  pi'imeval,  of  some  period  when  forms  were  uncertain  and 
provisory.  The  silence  is  profonnd,  and  tlie  absence  of  any 
sign  of  life  completes  the  image  of  a  remote  age  before  the 
beginning  of  animal  existence,  such  as  might  have  been  those 
forests  which  have  given  us  the  strata  of  coal  fossils. 

Faint    and   indistinct    tracks    on    the    moss    and    the    fallen 
trunks  indicate  the  wav.      The  travellers  proceed,  leaping  and 


I.DIiELIAS    IN    THE    HKATH    FOREST. 

balancing  themselves  upon  the  slippery  trunks,  in  continual 
<langer  of  putting  their  foot  in  a  deep  hole  and  falling  in  the 
openings  between  the  trunks,  wlience  tliev  would  be  likely  to 
emerge   with   broken   bones   or   otiier   injuries.       The    Bakonjos 

131  K  2 


Chapter  \\. 

i^ive  proof  of  marvelloiis  agility.  They  jump  froni  trunk  to 
trunk  ;  they  crouch  or  crawl  to  slip  their  loads  nmlcr  tlip  lower 
branches  ;  they  perform  nnracles  of  etpiilibrium  upon  sloping 
trunks,  walking  all  the  time  so  fast  that  it  is  difficult  to 
keep  up  with  them. 

The  path  now  returns  to  the  Mobuku,  whicli  here  is  a  mere 
Alpine  stream  buried  in  tiie  fantastic  vegetation  on  its  banks, 
and  roofed  over  witli  the  strange  branches  minglina;  and  crossin": 
above  it.  The  yellow-brown  waters  are  witlinut  fish  m-  any 
other  form  of  animal  life.  The  expedition  crossed  tliis  stream 
to  its  right  bank,  and  reached  the  foot  of  another  ledge,  about 
600  feet  high,  formed  by  an  ancient  moraine,  and  likewise 
covered  with  heath  forest  and  underwood  of  tall  ferns,  creeping 
plants,  orchids  and  thorny  brambles  laden  with  blo.ssoms 
and  with  nniipe  l)lackberries.  In  their  shade  grow  violets, 
rannnculus,  geraniums,  epilobium,  umbelliferous  species  and 
thistles.  The  ledge  leads  to  tlie  third  terrace,  where  there 
is  another  rock  shelter  called  Buamlxi,  11,542  feet  above 
the  sea. 

Once  upon  the  brow  of  this  ledge  and  out  of  tlie  oppressive 
lifelessness  of  the  heath  forest,  the  expedition  found  itself 
suddenly  and  without  transition  in  the  presence  of  a  picture 
totally  ditferent,  though  no  less  strange.  The  long  level  valley 
bottom,  walled  in  by  towering  cliffs  on  either  side,  stretched  up 
to  the  foot  of  another  step,  beyond  wliicli  the  valley  narrowed 
into  a  gorge  where  stands  the  shelter  of  Bujongolo.  The  peak 
of  Kiyanja  *  with  its  glaciers  rose  far  off  and  high  aliove  the 
head  of  the  valley. 

The  whole  valley  on  every  side  as  far  as  you  could  see  was 
one  mass  of  luxuriant  vegetation  of  indescribable   strangeness. 

♦  Edward  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker. 

132 


*s*-'  ,^^ffl 


i 


From   Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo— ]\Iol)iiku  Valley. 

The  groiiiul  was  carpeteil  with  a  deejj  laver  of  lycopodiuni 
and  spriiii^v  moss,  and  tliicklv  dottetl  with  Ijig  chimps  of  the 
papery  flowers,  pink,  yellow,  and  silver  white  of  the  helichrysum 
or  everlasting,  ahove  which  rose  the  tall  cohnnnar  stalks  of  the 
lobelia,  like  funereal  torches,  beside  huge  branching  groups  of 
the    monster    senecio.      Thr    impression    ])rodnced    was  l)evond 


^J/Gf/zSi^^M 

,i#^i^:^S^w-  iwv;!'' 

^^  :    LAjiflRf^^^i\     ' ^ A^j^hhHSsH^^^HH 

I  1*  < 

r^^^^^^MK^TO'..^  *  v.^  -thP 

THE    HEATH    FOREST. 


words  to  describe  ;  the  spectacle  was  too  weird,  too  improbable, 
too  unlike  all  familiar  images,  and  upon  the  whole  brooded  the 
same  gi"ave  deathly  silence. 

Here  and  there,  where  tlie  face  of  the  cliif  was  so  steep  and 
•smooth  that  no  other  plant   could  take  root,  were  great  golden 

133 


Chapter  IV. 

patches  of  moss.  In  the  hottoiu  of  the  valley  the  soft,  thick, 
mossy  carpet  was  strewn  with  violets  and  forget-me-nots,  which 
startle  the  Eurojiean  traAcUer  hy  tlie  unexpected  familiarity  of 
their  appearance. 

The  day  was  hne,  and  the  Duke  of  the  Ahruzzi  was  far 
too  impatient  to  consent  to  stop  at  Buamba,  close  to  the  end 
of  the  valley,  nearly  in  sight  of  Bujongolo.  They  snatched  a 
morsel  in  haste,  and  started  once  more  across  the  flowery 
plateau  in  full  sight  of  a  graceful  wateriall,  framed  in  foliage 
and  flowers,  falling  from  a  steep  point  on  the  right  side  of  the 
valley. 

The  way  proceeded  for  a  certain  distance  upon  the  left  side 
of  the  Mobuku,  and  then  crossed  again  to  the  right  at  the  foot 
of  the  last  rise.  The  valley  is  full  of  traces  of  the  former 
passage  of  glaciers,  the  rocks  are  worn  smooth  and  streaked  ; 
there  are  moraine  piles,  boulders,  etc.,  etc. 

One  last  climb  up  a  steep  slope  some  600  feet  high,  over 
mud  and  stone,  brings  the  expedition  to  the  right  side  of  tlie 
valley,  where  a  heaji  of  blocks,  siuTounded  l)y  tree  heaths, 
are  overhung  by  a  high  rock  which  forms  a  shelter.  This  is 
Bujongolo,  a  veritable  eyrie,  at  a  height  of  12,461  feet,  and 
2,528   feet  above  Kichuchu. 

Tlie  Prince  and  his  companions  reached  this  point  about  two 
in  the  afternoon,  leaving  the  caravan  of  porters  far  behind. 
Most  of  the  latter  had  stopped  at  the  Buamba  shelter,  and  only 
a  few  with  a  small  number  of  parcels  rejoined  the  expedition 
that  evening. 

The  place  was  rough  and  ^v\\(\.  A  cold  and  biting  wind 
blew  off  the  glacier,  and  suggested  surroundings  very  different 
from  those  usually  associated  with  Equatorial  Africa. 

The  members  of  the  expedition  were  full  of  excitement  and 

134 


V.ATKKFALL   AT   BUAMBA. 


From  Fort  Portal  to  Jiujoiigolo — ]\Iobuku  A^alley. 

satisfaction  at  having  at  last  reached  the  foot  of  the  mountains 
which  they  were  to  explore.  Tlie  join-nev  from  Italy  to  this 
point  had  occupied  54  days. 

The  first  night  was  spent  in  the  ojjen.  The  tents  had 
not  arrived,  and  many  were  without  even  a  sleeping  bag. 
A  few  sheep  had  come  so  far  with  the  porters,  and  frightened 
by  the  strange  place  huddled  around  them.  The  shapes  of 
the  naked  blacks  crouching  around  a  great  fire  showed  dimly 
in  the  night. 

Cagni,  barely  convalescent,  liad  left  Entebbe  two  days 
before  and  was  hastening,  by  forced  marches,  to  join  the 
expedition  and  take  part   in  tlieir  work. 


137 


CHAPTER  y. 
Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobuku  Valley. 

Organization  of  the  Base  Camp  at  Bujongolo— Upper  Mobuku  Valley — 
H.R.H.  starts  on  the  first  exploring  party— The  Mobuku  Glacier— Camp  on 
the  edge  of  the  Glacier — Terminal  Ridge  and  Grauer  Eock— First  comprehensive 
view  of  the  Ruwenzori  Chain— First  Ascent  of  the  Kiyanja  Peaks— Vittorio 
Sella  at  Camp  I— Photographic  work  at  Grauer  Rock— Fog,  Snow  and 
Storms— Sella  ascends  a  third  peak  of  the  group — Difficult  descent  to 
Bujongolo — Four  days  of  bad  weather — Camp  Life — A  leopard  visits  the 
camp — The  journey  of  Commander  Cagni  from  Entebbe  to  Bujongolo. 

()x  the  morning  of  the  8th  June  the 
Biikoiijo  porters  who  had  stopped  the 
I  lay  hefore  at  Buaniba  arrived  at 
Bujongolo  in  sntall  detachments. 
Meantime  the  Duke  and  his  com- 
panions, f'eehng  very  stiff  and  un- 
comfortable after  a  night  spent  upon 
tlie  rocks,  in  the  open  air,  deliberated 
as  to  the  best  means  of  forming  a 
cam|)  under  the  existing  conditions. 
At  first  sight  the  thing  seemed 
impossible.  Great  blocks  of  rock,  heaped  in  confusion  at 
the  foot  of  the  cliff,  or  projecting  from  the  hollow  at  its 
base,  left  not  a  yard  of  ground  free.  Underneath,  the  pile 
of  blocks    formed  caverns    and    hollows  of   which    a   few   were 


138 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobuku  Valley. 

I'elatively   drv  and   big    enough    to    form    possible  shelters   for 
the  natives. 

The  cliff  overhung  the  place,  while  the  chaos  of  loose  blocks 
reached  to  the  verge  of  the  steep  slope  which  led  down  to  the 
l)ottom  of  the  valley.  This  slope  was  one  tangled  mass  of  moss, 
nuid  and  stones,  shaded  by  the  desolate  heath  forest. 


BUJONCiOro. 


They  began  by  cutting  down  numerous  trees,  and  so 
distributing  the  trunks  among  the  rocks  as  to  build  up 
platforms  wide  enough  to  carry  the  six  tents.  These  tents 
.stood  on  diffei^ent  levels,  making  two  groups  separated  from  one 


1.39 


Chapter  V. 

another  hy  a  huge  houklei-.  To  pass  from  one  of  tliese  o-roups 
to  the  other  vou  1ia(l  either  to  go  round  the  boulder,  under 
the  perpetual  drip  of  water  which,  even  in  fine  weather,  came 
oft'  the  edge  of  the  overhanging  rock,  or  else  you  must  clamber 
between  the  boidder  and  the  rocky  wall,  a  feat  requiring  some 
acrobatic  skill.  Close  to  the  tents,  in  a  small  space  between 
three  heath  trees,  were  arranged  the  instruments  wliicli 
composed  tlie  small  meteorological  observatory. 

By  no  eftbrt  was  it  possible  so  to  transform  tliis  inconvenient 
spot  as  to  create  an  even  tolerable  camp,  such  as  would  have 
been  desirable  for  a  base  station,  where  the  expedition  might 
spend  a  considerable  time,  and  whither  exploring  parties  might 
return  from  the  high  mountains  for  rest  and  refreshment. 
Unfortuuatelv.  there  seemed  to  l)e  no  place  in  the  region  which 
combined  other  attractions  with  a  certain  measure  of  shelter 
from  the  weather. 

The  River  Mobuku  flows  at  the  foot  of  Bujongolo  more  than 
600  feet  Ijelow.  The  camp  stood  nearly  at  tlie  entrance  of  a 
little  tributary  valley,  which  at  this  point  opens  out  of  the  right 
flank  of  the  Mobuku  Valley.  The  latter  is  visible  for  a  short 
tract  only,  not  farther  than  the  foot  of  Kiyanja,  at  which  point 
it  makes  a  sharp  bend  to  the  northward.  Kivanja  has  from 
this  side  the  apj^earance  of  a  high  rocky  wall  ending  in  a  sharp 
peak.  To  tlie  left  of  this  peak,  at  the  top  of  the  wall,  lies  a 
level  glacier  overhung  by  a  rounded  sunnnit.  To  the  right 
stretches  a  jagged  ridge,  at  whose  feet  flows  down  into  the 
valley  another  glacier,  partly  liidden  by  the  corner  formed  on 
the  left  slope  of  the  Mobuku  Valley  at  tlie  point  where  it  turns- 
to  the  north. 

Opposite  the  camp,  on  the  other  side  of  the  valley,  a  spur 
descends  gi-adually  down  to  the  plain  of  Buamba.      Beyond  this- 

140 


(^ 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobukii  ^\allev. 


spur  rises  a  great  double  peak.*  Two  ridges  run  up  straio-ht 
from  the  base  to  the  points  f'onuiug  a  wide  couloir  between 
them. 

At    this    elevation,    where    the    temperature    often    reached 
freezing    point    during    the   night,    it    became    indispensable    to 


THE    KIYANJA   OF   JOHNSTON    FROM    BUJOXGOLO. 

clothe  the  Bakonjo  porters  in  some  degree.  The  Duke  had 
foreseen  this,  and  warm  flannels  and  blankets  were  distributed 
among  them.  They  had  great  difficulty  in  putting  them  on, 
and  their  long  and  ludicrous  attempts  generally  resulted  in 
a  frantic  effort  to  squeeze  their  legs  into  the  sleeves  of  the 

*  Mt.  Cagiii. 
141 


Chapter  V. 

woollen  vests.  The  blankets  tied  around  then'  shoulders  and 
girt  witli  a  rope  aroiuid  the  waist  formed  a  garment  somewhere^ 
between  a  toga  and  a  cassock.  At  all  events,  the  poor  fellows 
were  now  protected  from  the  cold,  which  was  the  e.ssential 
point. 

While  the  Duke,  with  the  help  of  Dr.  Cavalli,  directed  the 
organization  of  the  camp,  Messrs.  Kuowles,  Sella  and  Roccati 
made  a  preliminary  exploration  as  far  as  the  Mobuku  Glacier 
at  the  head  of  the  valley. 

(3u  the  following  morning,  .June  9th,  Mr.  Knowles  and 
Mr.  Haldane,  wlio  had  accompanied  the  expedition  as  far  as  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  and  used  all  their  authority  and  their 
great  experience  to  facilitate  its  progress,  left  it  definitely  and 
returned  to  Fort  Portal.  H.R.H.  remembers  with  gratitude 
the  invaluable  help  which  they  gave  to  his  enterprise. 

The  porters  went  down  to  fetch  the  loads  which  had  been 
left  behind  at  Kichuchu.  The  Duke,  with  his  guides  and 
Botta  and  five  Bakonjos,  started  for  the  upper  end  of  tlie 
valley. 

After  leaving  Bujongolo,  the  way  continues  to  skirt  the 
right  slope  of  the  valley.  The  bottom  of  the  valley  is  nearlv 
level,  marshy,  dotted  with  reeds,  lobelias  and  senecio,  and 
strewn  with  fallen  trunks  upon  which  you  stumble  at  every 
step,  and  slippery  with  wet  mosses  in  which  you  sink  to  the 
knee.  The  opposite  side  of  the  valley  consists  of  a  smooth 
rock  wall. 

Where  the  valley  turns  northward  it  grows  still  narrower, 
forming  a  gorge  between  steep  walls.  At  the  upper  end  thfr 
Mobuku  Glacier  appears  actually  to  o^'erha^g  it,  all  broken 
and  full  of  crevasses,  covering  the  upper  portion  of  the  last 
rocky  cliff  and  ending    in    an    ice    cavern    whence    issues   the 

112 


1.  S/Atrs  Peak 

2.  Edivard  ,. 

3.  Semper    ,, 

4.  Savoia     ., 

5.  Elena 

6.  Moehius  „ 


Mobukii  Glacier 

Alexandra  Peak 
Margherita     ,, 
Sifthitiiann  Pass 
nte^  EmanueU  Peak 
Johnston  ,, 

i\Vr//i  Portal  „ 


JftZiya  A  Smv 


PAA-OR^LU.t    FAKliX   FROM   GRAUEKS   ROCK   ON   MOU.Wl   liAKf.R 


i 


4Ul 


UPPER    GORGE    OF   THE    JIOIilKU    \"AI.I.EY. 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobuku  Valley. 

torrent.       Near  to  the  glacier  the  only  plants  are  arboraceous 
senecio,  several  3'arcls  high. 

A  little  before  the  end  of  the  valley  the  way  crosses  the 
torrent  and  mounts  a  frontal  moraine  lett  bv  the  retreating- 
glacier.  In  this  way  a  j^rojecting  rock  is  reached  where 
Grauer  had  encamped  at  a  height  of  13,229  feet  al)ove  the 
sea,  a  little  lielow  the  lower  end  of  the  glacier.  This  was  the 
last  point  where  it  was  possible  to  liglit  a  fire,  and  during 
the  brief  lialt  the  porters  huddled  shivering  around  tlie  flame. 
The  distance  from  Bujongolo  to  this  point  is  one  hour's  march. 
The  way  now  continued  skirting  the  rock  to  the  right  and 
ascending  a  short  chimney  closed  at  the  top  by  a  boulder,  from 
which  still  hung  one  of  the  ropes  placed  there  by  Grauer  to 
facilitate  the  ascent.  Thanks  to  this  assistance  the  obstacle 
was  easily  surmounted. 

In  one  more  hour's  climl)  up  the  rocks  the  left  margin  of 
the  glacier  was  reached  just  above  the  terminal  tall  of  seracs. 
Here  the  way  skirted  the  glacier  for  a  bit,  and  then  proceeded 
again  to  climb  the  rock  wall  over  a  diflicult  passage,  which 
the  porters  would  have  been  unable  to  negotiate  Avithout  the 
assistance  of  the  guides.  Their  bare  feet  slipped  continuallv 
upon  the  smooth  steep  moss-grown  slabs  of  rock,  or  got 
wounded  on  their  edges  and  sharp  points.  At  last  the  Duke 
gave  up  the  idea  of  bringing  them  further  and  sent  them 
back  to  Bujongolo. 

A  short  traverse  led  back  to  the  glacier  at  the  foot  of  a 
rocky  projection.  The  Duke  had  wished  to  encamp  on  tlie  top 
of  the  ridge  so  as  to  be  there  at  the  following  dawn  A\'hen 
there  was  greater  chance  of  a  clear  sky.  But  hardly  had 
they  reached  the  glacier  before  a  dense  fog  enveloped  the 
party  and    shut    out    everything    from    their    sight.       It    was 

145  L 


Chapter  V. 

impossible  to  get  on  any  further  on  that  day.  With  their  ice- 
axes  they  levelled  a  little  space  between  the  stones  and  here  set 
up  the  one  Whymper  tent  which  they  had  brought  with  them. 

After  Bujongolo  there  were  no  more  names  for  any  of  the 
])laces,  and  therefore  the  subsequent  camp.s  are  indicated  by 
nuniijers.  Tliis  one  on  the  rocks  to  the  left  of  the  Mobuku 
Glacier,  above  the  terminal  ice-fall,  was  Camp  I,  altitude 
14,118  feet.  Botta  and  Laurent  Petigax  at  once  redescended 
to  Bujongolo.  Joseph  Petigax,  Oilier  and  the  porter  Brocherel 
remained  witli  H.R.H.  The  afternoon  passed  slowly  and 
tediously  in  the  cold,  damp  fog,  which  did  not  lift  until  late 
in  the  evening. 

Before  daylight  on  the  10th  of  June,  the  weather  being  clear, 
the  Duke,  .seized  by  an  irresistible  impatience  to  proceed,  and 
dreading  a  retin-n  of  tlie  fog  at  any  moment,  hurried  on  the 
guides  at  a  forced  pace  down  the  I'ocks,  on  to  the  glacier,  and  up 
the  snow  slopes  witli  their  few  crevasses,  and  in  about  half  an 
hour  reached  the  top  of  the  ridge.  The  daybreak  had  hardly 
commenced. 

The  wliole  range  of  mountains  stood  before  them,  with  only 
the  topmost  peaks  shrouded  in  mist.  They  had  reached  the 
lowest  point  of  tlie  ridge  at  the  top  of  the  Mobuku  Glacier. 
Here  a  small  peak  projected  from  the  snow,  covered  with 
black  lichens  and  mosses,  while  a  few  grasses  and  a  species 
of  thistle  blossomed  on  its  sides.  This  is  the  rock  which 
Grauer,  in  January  of  the  same  year,  had  named  King  Edward 
Peak,  14,813  feet. 

From  this  depression,  which  may  l^e  described  as  a  col,  the 
ridge  rises  to  the  eastward,  on  the  right,  as  far  as  two  rocky 
peaks*  separated  by  a  small  glacier.      WoUaston,  with  Woosnam, 

*  Moore  ;ui(l  AVollaston  Peaks. 

l-K) 


i 

I 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobuku  Valley. 

had  ascended  the  easternmost  of  these  in  February,  and  had 
then  supposed  it  to  be  the  Duwoni  of  Johnston.  In  the 
opposite  direction  the  ridge  stretches  west  and  south,  forming 
two  more  peaks,  evidently  higher  than  those  to  the  east  of  the 
col.     These  south-western  peaks  form  the  Kiyanja  of  Johnston.* 


Moore  Peak. 


■Wollasloii  Peak. 


EASTERN    PEAKS   OF   MT.    BAKEI!,    SEEN    FROM    EDWARD    PEAK. 

In  fact,  the  peaks  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Mobuku  Valley 
form  a  single  group,  ending  in  a  continuous  ridge,  which 
curves  southward  in  a  complete  semicircle,  circumscribing  a  vast 
amphitheatre,  covered  to  a  great  extent  by  glaciers. 

*  Semper  and  p](hvarfl  Peaks. 

1-J7  I,  2 


Chapter  V. 

Ti)  tlie  nortli,  on  tlie  otliHr  luiud,  the  groups  tower  above  a 
vast  vallev  wliere  tlu'  clear  waters  of  a  peaceful  lakelet  reflect 
the  rocks  and  olaclers  round  about.  This  turned  out  to  be  the 
upper  end  of  that  valley  which  the  Prince  had  detected  at  its 
opening  into  the  Mobuku  Valley  between  the  two  southernmost 
Portal  peaks  opposite  Nakitawa.  As  he  had  then  surmised, 
this  vallev  does  actually  penetrate  to  the  heart  of  the  range, 
and  is  entirely  surrounded  by  snow  peaks  and  glaciers.  To  tlie 
south  of  it  lies  the  eastern  end  of  Kiyanja,  whili-  to  the 
west  stands  the  great  central  group,*  formed,  as  liad  l)een 
seen  from  the  Hima  Valley,  of  four  distinct  peaks  standing- 
two  and  two  at  either  end  of  a  ridge  whence  a  great  glacier 
flows  down  and  covers  the  entire  slope.  To  the  north  stands 
the  Duwonit  of  Johnston,  which  from  this  jaoint  appears  in 
fore-shortening  with  two  squat  snow  peaks.  There  could  now 
remain  no  doubt  but  that  the  two  northern  peaks  of  the  central 
group  were  the  highest  of  the  whole  chain. 

Furtlier  ofl',  to  the  right  of  Duwoni,  behind  a  great  spur 
which  I'uns  down  from  Duwoni  eastward,  appeared  two  more 
snow  peaksj  standing  at  the  head  of  a  tributary  of  the 
Bujuku  Valley.  On  the  last  ridge  of  this  eastern  spin-  of 
DuM'oni  there  is  a  strange  monolith,  standing  up  straight  as  a 
tower,  and  with  regular  angles,  which,  at  a  distance,  looks 
almost  architectural. 

The  discovery  of  the  Bujuku  Valley  proved  quite  clearly 
that  the  terminal  ridge  at  the  head  of  the  Mobuku  Valley  is  not 
a  portion  of  the  water.shed  of  the  chain,  as  had  been  supposed 
by-  all  the  Duke's  predecessors  who  had  come  so  far.  It 
furthermore,"proved  that  neither  tlie  main  group,  including  the 

*  Mt.  Stanley.  f  Mt.  Speke. 

X  Mts.  Emin  and  Gessi. 

148 


a 


'a 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  ]\I()l)uku  Valley. 

highest  summits,  nor  the  Duwoni  of  Johnston,  has  any  connection 
with  the  Mobuku  Valley.  H.R.H.  was  the  first  to  behold  the 
complete  jianorama  of  the  range  spread  out  before  his  eyes.      It 


THE    lUGIlKST    I'K.AKS    AM)    I.AKK    m.llKl,    SKKN    !•  Ui  L\l    (.KAl  Kll'h    JtnCK. 

was  a  far  more  imposing  sight  tlian  could  have  Vjeen  imagined 
by  those  preceding  explorers  who,  once  they  reached  the 
terminal    gorge    of    the    Mobuku    Valley,    supposed    that     the 

151 


Chapter  V. 

glaciers  and  peaks  around  them  were  the  most  important  of 
the  wliole  cliain.  WoUaston  alone  had  had  a  glimpse  of  the 
groups  to  northward,  hut  the  fogs  had  not  permitted  him  to 
appreciate  their  numher  nor  their  exact  situation.  Even  in  the 
former  attempts  to  explore  the  range  from  tlie  west,  single 
mountains  onlv  had  l^een  visible.  Possibly  David  liad  liad  a 
wider  view,  but  his  description  is  vague  and  confused. 

It  was  barely  6.30  in  the  morning  when  the  little  party  once 
more  set  out  towards  the  west  in  the  direction  of  the  higliest 
peaks  of  the  groujj,  proceeding  over  hard  snow  broken  by  a 
few  crevasses  on  the  left  flank  of  the  cre.st  feeing  the  Mobuku 
Valley. 

The  ridge  rises  first  to  a  peak*  of  broken  and  rotten  rock 
(15,843  feet),  of  which  H.R.H.  reached  the  summit  at  8  a.m.  A 
light  wind  was  blowing  from  the  western  valley,  and  drifts  of 
mist  began  now  and  again  to  shroud  the  prospect  from  their 
sight. 

To  the  west  of  this  peak  a  jagged  and  slightly  marked  arete 
leads  precipitously  down  to  the  pass  which  connects  Kiyanja 
with  the  central  and  highest  groujj.  The  main  ridge,  on  the 
other  hand,  bends  southward,  and  from  thence  onward  forms  part 
of  the  watershed  of  the  range  between  the  Mobuku  to  the  east 
and  another  smaller  valley  which  falls  away  westward  toward 
the  Semliki.  The  west  face  of  Kiyanja  is  precipitous  like  the 
north  face,   which  overhangs  the  Bujuku  Valley. 

Without  stopjjiug  on  this  first  peak,  the  caravan  proceeded 
southward  along  the  ridge  towards  tlie  highest  point,  now  less 
than  400  yards  distant.  At  9.15  a.m.  the  Prince  was  the  first  to 
set  foot  upon  the  highest  summit  of  Kiyanja,t  15,988  feet.  The 
rocks  of  the  summit  are  covered  with  fulgurites  in  the  form  of 
*  Semper  Peak.  f    Edward  Peak. 

152 


ley 


I.     Savofa  Peak 

6. 

Vitto. 

c.    Alexandra  Peak 

7- 

Johns 

3.     Margkerlta  ,, 

8. 

Grau. 

4.     Edward         „ 

Q. 

Moor, 

Ml.  Srtk,  Ml  Ktw,,!, 


r.lAOR^SAfA    TAKEN  FROM  STAIRS  TEAK  O.V    re, ' 


Mt.  Eriniii 


',?  '*:.yv'iaKv, 


AK  ON 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  ^Molniku  Valley. 

vitreous  efflorescences.  The  wind  had  ceased,  and  everythini^ 
around  them  was  envelojied  in  mist.  Tlie  temperature  was 
mild,  about  43°  F.  They  remained  four  hours  on  the  top, 
looking  anxiously  for  any  opening  in  the  mist  in  tlie  hope  of 
gathering  further  details  of  the  scene  around  them. 


Semper  Peak. 


KiUvanl  Peak. 

I 


MT.    B.VKER   (THE    KIYANJA    OF   JOH.NSTOX)   SEEN    EROJI   THE   WEST. 

They  did  not  wait  in  vain.  They  were  able  to  make  out 
that  the  watershed  ridge  proceeded  southward  from  the  peak 
upon  which  they  stood  and  downwards  to  a  col  beyond  which 
was  another  group  of  mountains,*  a  short  chain  of  ridges  and 
rocky  peaks,  with  a  few  glaciers  of  far  less  extent  than  those  of 

*  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia. 
153 


Chapter  Y. 

the  northei-n  groups.  The  low  watershed  col  had  every  appear- 
ance of  forming  an  easy  pass  between  Bnjongolo  and  the  valley 
to  the  west  of  the  Kiyanja,  by  which  it  would  be  possible  to 
reach  the  foot  of  the  central  group  without  difficulty. 

Before  dipping  down  to  the  col,  the  south  ridge  of  the 
Kiyanja  rises  once  more  into  a  knob  of  rock,  which  is  clearly 
visible  from  Bujongolo,  and  is  the  point  ascended  by 
Mr.  Wollaston  in  February  and  in  April. 

By  one  o'clock  the  party  started  back.  They  crossed  once 
more  the  peak  which  they  had  ascended  first,  and  proceeded  in 
a  fog,  which  was  now  dense  and  immovable,  over  the  tracks 
which  they  had  left  in  the  snow  in  the  morning.  At  three 
o'clock  they  reached  Grauer's  rock,  and  in  half  an  hour  more 
were  in  the  camp  beside  the  Mobuku  Glacier.  Here  they 
found  Sella,  who  had  come  up  with  Laurent  Petigax  and  Botta. 
Witli  tlie  help  of  six  natives  they  had  IjroTight  up  a  second 
tent  and  the  photographic  apparatus.  Sleety  rain  was  now 
falling,  which  soon  turned  into  a  thick  fall  of  snow. 

On  the  morning  of  the  11th,  the  Duke  returned  to 
Bujongolo.  Sella,  with  Botta  and  Brocherel,  in  their  turn, 
ascended  the  col.  The  tracks  of  the  Duke's  party  had 
di.sappeared  under  the  new  snow  which  had  fallen  during  the 
night,  and  the  mist  made  it  impossible  to  see  even  a  few 
steps  ahead. 

After  a  few  hoiu's  spent  on  the  col  in  vainly  waiting  for 
the  mist  to  clear,  they  proceeded  to  climb  the  rocky  crag  which 
Grauer  had  named  after  King  Edward.  Once  on  the  top,  in 
spite  of  the  snow  which  was  now  falling  again,  they  set  up  the 
photogi'aphic  camera  on  its  tripod,  and,  huddling  around  it, 
waited  })atiently.  By  two  in  the  afternoon  Sella  gave  it  up, 
folded   up   the   camera,   and    was   on   the   point   of  leaving   the 

154 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mobukii  Yallev. 

peak,  when  suddenly  the  sky  began  to  clear.  The  mists  melted 
rapidly  on  every  side,  and  in  a  few  minutes  all  the  mountains 
were  uncovered  except  only  the  extreme  summits.  The  camei'a 
was  immediately  set  up  again  and  a  panorama  taken. 

A  clear  sunset  followed.  The  sun  went  down  just  over  the 
two  highest  points,  lighting  up  the  snow  with  its  last  rays.  At 
nip-htfall  the  storm  began  attain  witli  tlumder,  lightning;  and 
heavy  snow.  Sella  returned  to  the  col  in  the  morning.  He 
saw  the  mountains  once  more,  but  under  a  leaden  sky  with 
diffused  light  and  no  shadows.  Dark  banks  of  mist  were 
drifting  upward  from  the  east  in  a  light  wind,  and  settling 
little  by  little  over  valleys  and  jjeaks. 

From  the  col  Sella  proceeded  to  a  peak  to  tlie  east," 
15,269  feet,  over  I'ocks  which  were  not  ditiicult,  but  here  and 
there  were  rendered  dangerous  by  the  ice  and  snow. 

The  snowfall  had  again  begun,  l)ut  he  remembered  liis  hick 
of  tlie  preceding  day,  and  waited  patiently  on  the  top  until 
three  in  tlie  afternoon,  but  without  success.  On  returning  to 
the  col,  he  found  Roccati,  who  had  come  up  from  Bujongolo 
with  a  OTiide  to  take  observations  on  the  glaciers.  In  the 
evening  Sella  X'emained  alone  in  camp  with  Botta.  The  snow 
was  now  falling  thick  and  continuous,  without  the  smallest 
interval. 

On  the  following  day,  13th  of  June,  the  tent  was  folded  up 
to  return  to  Bujongolo,  whence  five  natives  had  come  to  fetch 
the  loads.  The  descent  was  far  from  easy.  Numberless 
rivulets,  now  swollen  with  water,  fell  in  little  cascades 
across  the  narrow  muddy  p;itli,  and  made  the  mossy  rocks 
even  more  slippery  than  they  had  been.  It  was  extremely 
difficult    to    induce  the   terrified   natives   to  proceed.      In  the 

*  Aloore  Peak. 
155 


Clijipter  V. 

cliimney,  near  Graiier  s  camp,  wlnrli  is  overlmiig'  by  a 
projecting  rock,  tliev  liad  to  }iass  uiult-r  a  real  waterfall, 
with  a  certain  risk  of  being  carried  away  down  the  \n'e- 
cipitons  slope.       Here  and   further   down,   as  far  as   the   point 


Bl'JONGOLO. 


where  the  jjath  becomes  less  steep,  Sella  and  Botta  were 
obliged  to  carry  all  the  loads  themselv^es  by  instalments, 
while  the  Bakonjo,  silent  and  passive,  could  scarcely  manage 
to  proceed  at  all.  Finally,  about  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
drenched  w^ith  water  and  covered  with  mud,  they  reached 
their  companions  at  Bujongolo. 

Here  from  the  11th  up  to  the  14th  inclusive  there  was  no 
improvement  in  the  weather.  The  rain  was  nearly  continuous, 
while   storms  of   wind,  with   thunder   and    lightning,   followed 

156 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  Mi)ltulvii   \^illev. 

upon  one  another  at  short  inter\als.  Thick  dark  fo<r  enveloped 
everythmg.  The  camp  was  soon  invaded  hv  mud  and  water, 
and  a  continual  drip  came  down  upon  the  tents  from  the 
overhanging  rock.  Under  these  conditions  it  became  ditticult 
to  kindle  a  fire,  and  the  only  resource  was  to  keep  it  burning 
day  and  night,  which  recpiired  no  mean  amount  of  work  in 
feeding  it  and   ])roviding   sufficient   fuel.       On   one  side  of  the 


HEATH    FOREST    BEI.OW    lUMoNGOLO. 


hup'e  boulder  which  divided  tl 


le   cam[)  m 


two,  stood  the  three 


tents  of  the  Duke,  liis  companions,  and  BuUi,  standing  on 
different  levels.  They  had  constructed,  close  by,  a  rough 
shed    where    thev    could    eat,    and    the    kitchen    was    near    at 


157 


Chapter  V. 

hand.  On  the  dUrt  side  of  the  boulder  the  guides,  Ijy  (Unt 
of  displacing  large  rocks  with  their  ice-axes  and  working- 
hard  at  levelling,  had  made  room  for  their  own  tents. 

Every  time  that  anyone  stepped  out  of  the  camp  he 
would  sink  into  the  mud.  It  was  impossible  to  circulate 
between  the  tents  without  nailed  boots,  because  the  moment 
that  you  came  out  a  sort  of  mountain-climbing  gymnastic 
began,  where  it  was  necessary  to  hold  on  tigjit  at  every 
step. 

The  mean  temperature  was  from  39°  to  41°  F.  At  night 
it  generally  fell  to  33°-34°,  and  sometimes  to  freezing  point. 
The  dampness,  however,  was  far  more  trying  than  the  cold. 

One  event  alone  would  occasionally  relieve  the  tedium, 
namely,  the  arrival  of  the  post.  The  letters  were  brought 
up  by  swift  comners — wrapped  up  carefully  in  banana  leaves, 
and  stuck  in  the  end  of  a  cleft  cane. 

Now  and  again  the  camp  would  be  filled  with  pungent 
smoke,  extremely  irritating  to  the  eyes  and  chest,  which 
came  from  the  fii'es  lit  by  the  Bakonjo  in  the  underground 
cavities  between  tlie  boulders.  They  liuddled  together  all 
day  long  in  these  dens,  where  tliey  liad  not  room  to  stretch 
themselves  out  at  length,  and  ate  or  smoked  incessantly  when 
they  were  not  asleep.  Their  real  providence  was  the  fire. 
They  never  left  it  except  when  called  away,  and  rushed  back 
to  squat  around  it  as  soon  as  they  were  no  longer  required. 
They  carried  it  about  with  them  from  jjlace  to  place,  using  a 
sort  of  dry  fiuigus  which  remains  kindled  like  tinder,  and  which 
they  keep  in  a  case  made  of  banana  leaves.  The  moment  a 
halt  was  called  during  a  march,  in  less  than  no  time  the  natives 
would  have  kindled  a  fire  and  be  enjoying  a  fine  blaze  and 
smoking  their   pipes,    and    it   was    not   always   easy  to   induce 

158 


BUyONGOLO 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  ^lobuku  Valley. 

them  to  start  again  promptly.  They  were  once  found  on  the 
road,  shivering  in  the  rain  and  stark  naked,  having  taken  off 
their  vests  and  blankets  so  as  to  enjoy  to  the  full  the  heat 
of  the  glowing  coals.  They  ate  eagerly  whatever  food  was 
supplied  to  them,  but  they  did  not  like  novelty.  They  made 
wry  faces  before  making  up  tlieir  minds  to  swallow  tea,  and  fur 
preferred  their  mess  of  dura  tiour,  which  to  us  seems  nauseating 
to  the  white  wheat  flour,  even  when  prepared  witli  butter. 

In  spite  of  these  trying  conditions  of  life,  the  Bakonjo 
showed  admirable  patience  and  docility.  It  was  very  rare, 
indeed,  for  even  a  single  porter  to  refuse  to  go  on  with  his 
load,  although  they  nearly  always  got  their  feet  swollen  and 
hurt  by  the  stones. 

Once  only,  on  returning  from  Bujongolo  after  a  few  days 
of  hard  service  in  the  mountains,  ten  of  them  deserted  because 
it  was  not  possible  to  dismiss  them,  as  they  desired.  The  law 
of  Uganda  does  not  permit  native  porters  to  abandon  a  caravan 
conducted  by  whites  until  tliey  have  finished  the  time  or 
traversed  the  distance  for  which  they  have  engaged  themselves. 
It  came  out  afterwards  that  the  deserters  had  been  instigated 
by  a  native  convert  of  tiie  plain,  the  one  and  oidy  Baganda 
who  had  been  willing  to  follow  tlie  caravan  as  far  as  the 
mountains.  Notwithstanding  the  cold  and  the  bad  weather, 
they  ran  away  stark  naked,  after  honestly  depositing  their 
warm  clothes  and  blankets  near  one  of  tlie  tents.  During 
the  sojourn  of  the  expedition  at  Bujongolo,  a  certain  number 
of  natives  got  bronchitis  and  coughs  and  were  sent  down. 
One  got  his  feet  frostbitten  and  was  carried  as  far  as  Fort 
Portal  to  the  hospital. 

Poor  Isini,  the  cook,  had  the  hardest  life  of  all.  He 
was    the    only    one    whose    activity    was    confined    within    the 

159 


Cha|)ter  V. 

ring  of  deep  luud  wliicli  turned  the  camp  into  a  clo.se  prison. 
Squatting  between  four  boulders,  hedged  about  by  the  cases 
of  rations,  the  kitchen  implements,  the  fire,  and  the  tent,  he 
had  far  less  chance  of  exercise  than  during  tlie  polar  winter 
wliicli  he  had  spent  in  Teplitz  Bay,  where  lie  was  forced  to 
go  half  a  mile  to  fetch  tlie  meat  of  some  bear  himg  up  l)y 
the  ship,  or  had  to  work  to  disinter  the  cases  of  rations,  or 
help  to  run  after  tlie  dogs. 

The  daily  visits  of  a  big  leopard,  whose  den  was  situated 
mider  the  heath  forest  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  camp,  did 
not  contribute  to  render  the  sojourn  at  Bujongolo  pleasant. 
This  leopard  was  observed  for  the  first  time,  on  the  lltli  of 
June,  by  a  native,  not  far  from  the  tent  devoiu-ing  two  sheep 
belonging  to  the  expedition.  On  the  following  night  he  prowled 
around  the  camp.  On  the  evening  of  the  12th,  the  Duke,  who 
was  absorbed  in  writing  at  the  opening  of  liis  tent,  saw  him 
only  a  few  paces  off.  The  annual  fled  as  soon  as  he  stood  up, 
but  his  boldness  gave  cause  to  fear  for  the  porters  who  slept 
unpi'otected,  or  for  those  who  went  to  fetch  water  for  the 
camp.  In  vain  were  the  surroundings  examined  and  beaten  ; 
the  animal  seemed  very  cunning,  and  when  hunted  never 
allowed  himself  to  be  seen. 

On  the  evening  of  the  13th,  the  weather  had  shown  a 
tendency  to  improve,  but  during  the  night  grew  worse  again. 
On  the  evening  of  the  lith,  however,  it  seemed  really  to  clear. 
The  sky  became  free  from  clouds,  the  last  traces  of  mist  melted 
away,  and  all  tbe  mountains  came  into  sight  covered  far 
down  with  the  fresh  snow  which  had  fallen  duringf  the  last 
days.  The  intolerable  imprisonment  was  finally  coming  to  an 
end,  and  the  Duke  made  preparations  to  start  out  on  the 
following  morning  to  explore  the  central  group  of  the  chain. 

160 


MT.    CAfJNI   SEEN    FROM    BUJONGOLO. 


M 


Peaks  at  the  Head  of  ^lobuku  Valley. 

Commander  ('agui,  who  \vas  liasteiiiii>;'  up  the  Mobuku 
Valley,  had  bv  this  time  nearly  rejoined  his  comrades,  who 
believed  him  to  Ije  still   many  days'   jom'ney  off. 

He  had  left  Entebbe,  as  we  said,  on  the  5th  of  June,  with 
twenty-five  porters,  a  ricksha^^■  and  a  horse.  In  a  short  time 
he  so  far  recovered  his  sti'ength  and  got  so  perfectly  into 
trainino-  that  he  was  able  to  make  two.  or  even  four,  staues  in 
a  day.  He  took  advantage  of  tlie  full  moon  to  leave  before 
dawai,  and  continued  the  march  till  late  in  the  day,  doing 
25  to  27  miles  at  a  time.  The  porters,  allured  by  presents 
of  a  sheep  or  a  little  money,  performed  miracles.  Once  they 
marched  for  seventeen  hours,  covering  32  miles. 

In  six  days,  Cagni  reached  Toro.  where  King  Kasagama 
showed  him  every  courtesy.  He  left  again  in  the  morning 
of  the  12th  of  June.  At  Butanuka  he  found  the  178  Baganda 
porters  who  had  been  sent  back  fiom  the  Mobuku  Valley. 
Following  the  directions  of  the  Duke,  he  dismissed  a  portion 
of  them,  and  sent  the  others  back  to  Fort  Portal,  there  to 
await  the  return  of  the  expedition  from  the  mountains.  He 
iiad  difficulty  in  crossing  the  AVimi  River,  which  had  now 
become  an  impetuous  torrent  some  50  yards  wide,  with  a 
depth  of  more  than  three  feet  at  some  points,  and  he  found 
a  still  more  .serious  obstacle  in  the  Mobuku,  swollen  by  the 
same  rains  which  were  imprisoning  the  expedition  at  Bujongolo. 

Not  having  a  rope  long  enough  to  permit  of  his  stretch- 
ino-  it  across  the  river,  as  the  expedition  had  done,  he  tied 
too-ether  the  halter  of  his  horse,  the  tent  ropes,  the  cord.s  used 
to  tie  the  loads,  etc.,  doubling  them  several  times,  and  in  this 
way  he  contrived  a  rope  long  enough  to  cover  ahout  lialf  the 
width  of  the  torrent.  This  lie  liad  kept  taut  across  the  central 
and  swifter  part  of  the  current  hy  two  groups  of  men.     Thanks 

163  M  -' 


Chapter  V. 

to  the  willing  help  of  tlie  chiefs  and  natives  of  tlie  neighlwuiiny 
villages,  lie  managed  to  cross  the  river  without  accidents,  but 
with   the  loss  of  half  a  day. 

On  the  14th  of  June,  at  Bihunga,  where  the  native  soldiers 
of  the  escort  were  established,  he  changed  his  Baganda  porters 
for  Bakonjo.  Two  days  later  he  reached  Bujongolo,  thus 
accomplishing  the  whole  journey  in  ten  stages. 

Here  he  found  only  Dr.  Cavalli,  the  Duke  having  left  tlie 
evening  before,  while  Sella  and  Roccati  had  started  that  very 
morning  to  ascend  the  col  to  the  south  of  Kiyanja. 


164 


CHAPTER  VI. 
Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

The  Bakonjo's  dread  of  the  Western  Slopes — H.K.H.  leaves  Bujotigolo — March 
through  fog  and  mud^The  Col  on  the  Watershed — Camp  near  the  Lake — 
Ascent  of  the  Valley  to  the  West  of  Kiyaiija — Camp  III— Col  at  the  foot 
of  the  Central  C4roiip  —  Camp  IV  —  The  Bujukii  Valley  once  more  in 
sight — Ascent  of  Alexandra  Peak — In  the  Fog — Climbing  Margherita  Peak — 
Snow-blindness — Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks — The  Expedition  united  again — 
Adventures  of  the  Duke's  companions  from  the  15th  to  the  I'Oth  of  June — 
Sella  and  Koccati  climb  a  peak  of  the  Southern  Group. 

Douglas  Freshfield  had  been  told 
by  liis  caravan  leader  that  the  col 
towards  which  the  southern  ridge 
of"  Kiyanja  runs  down,  and  wliicli 
forms  a  part  of"  the  watershed,  had 
been  used  as  a  pass  by  the  natives 
on  the  west  of  the  chain  who  were 
in  the  habit  of  crossing  it  into  the 
Mobuku,  on  tlieir  way  to  Btianilia  to 
trade  with  the  Bakonjo. 

The  Duke,  however,  failed  to  gather 

from   liis  })orters  tlie  least    scrap    of 

information    as    to    any    way    of    commmiication    l)etween    the 

eastern  and  western  slopes.      They  appeared  rather  to  experience 

a  feeling  of  terror  for  the  district  bevond  tlic  ridge,  and  seemed 


16.5 


Chapter  VI. 

pnifouiidlv  CDiiviuced  that  to  go  towards  tlie  Congo  was 
equivalent  to  going  to  meet  certain  death.  It  was  only  too 
natural  that,  with  these  feelings,  they  sliouhl  show  extreme 
reluctance  to  following  the  Prince  west\\ard. 

On  the  morning  of  the  15th  June,  there  were  only  nine 
Bakonjo  at  Bujongolo,  hardly  a  .sutHcient  numher,  with  the 
addition  of  the  four  guides  and  Botta,  to  carry  the  kit  of 
the  Dnke,  now  reduced  to  absolute  necessities  and  rations  for 
a  few  (lavs.  At  the  last  moment  the  natives  put  forward  a 
claim  to  being  paid  every  day,  and  the  Duke  of  the  Ahruzzi 
was  obliged  to  load  himself  with  a  not  inconsiderable  weight 
of  rupees. 

Finally,  about  eight  o'clock,  as  no  other  excuse  for  fresh 
delay  was  available,  they  stai'ted  from  camp  in  brilliant  sun- 
shine. First  they  went  up  the  little  valley  which,  as  we  saw, 
opens  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  Mobuku,  near  to 
Bujongolo.  They  followed  the  line  of  the  small  torrent, 
crossing  from  one  bank  to  the  other,  and  so  reached  the 
top  of  the  spin-,  and  came  into  a  valley  formed  by  a 
torrent  fed  from  the  southern  glaciers  of  Kiyanja.  This  is 
the  same  torrent  which  forms  the  picturesque  waterfall  on 
the  right  slope  of  the  plain  of  Buamba.  Close  to  the  liead 
of  the  little  valley  are  tA\o  projectmg  rocks  fornnng  natTU'al 
shelters,  similar  to  those  of  Kichuchu  and  Buamba. 

The  ground  was  drenched  witli  the  rain  which  had  fallen 
during  the  preceding  days,  and  after  an  hour's  niarcli  everyone 
was  wet  to  the  skin,  and  covered  with  mud.  The  marcli  was 
tiring,  because  at  every  few  steps  you  slipped  or  sank  into  tlie 
mud.  The  porters  were  susj)icious  of  the  unknown  country 
towards  which  their  steps  were  directed,  .■ind  proceeded 
miwillingly,    with    exaspei'ating   slowness.       They    had   stopped 

16G 


THE    VALLEY   TO   THE   WEST   OF   MT.    BAKER. 


Peaks  of  the   Central  Group. 

twenty  minutes  after  leaving-  Bujongolo,  and  liad  inunediatel}' 
kindled  a  fire  and  lit  their  pipes.  After  another  half- hour's 
marcli  they  repeated  this  performance.  When  urged  to 
proceed  they  would  answer  Ijy  pointing  to  their  head,  feet, 
belly  or  legs,  each  of  wliich  portions  of  their  persons  seemed  to 
have  been  suddenly  afflicted  with  painful  complaints.      To  make 


MT.    STANLEY    SEE\    FllOM    FRESHFIEI.D  S   COL. 

things  worse,  the  fog  clo.sed  in  again,  and  tlie  marshy  valley 
was  crossed  without  a  glimpse  of  anything  beyond  tlie  senecios 
and  lobelias  ai'ound  them,  and  the  moss,  nnid  ami  stones  at 
their  feet.  The  watershed*  was  at  last  reached  after  an  easy 
climb,  partlv  on  the  slope  and  ])artly  in  a  gorge. 


*  Freshfield  Pass. 
167 


Chapter  YI. 

A  cold  wiud  was  blo^Yill^•  and  the  porters  rushed  to  iiiid 
shelter.  The  height  was  14,193  feet  above  the  sea-level. 
They  were  above  the  zone  of  trees,  and  there  were  only  mosses, 
lichens  and  clumps  of  everlasting  flowers. 

The  wind  drove  the  fog  hitlier  and  thither,  opening  up 
glimpses  of  the  countrv  now  in  one  direction,  now  in  another. 
To  the  north  of  the  col  rose  the  southern  ridge  of  Kiyanja,  wide, 
rounded,  and  covered  on  the  top  by  a  glacier  which  falls  over 
to  the  right  and  left  on  the  Iavo  slopes,  and  which  must  have  once 
come  down  so  as  to  cover  the  entiie  col.  The  traces  are  clear  on 
the  polished  and  lined  rocks.  Southward  stands  the  group  of 
locky  peaks  which  H.R.H.  had  already  observed  from  the 
simamit  of  Kiyanja.  Here  they  saw  two  small  glaciers  which 
till  two  cols,  while  a  third  between  them  is  rockv  and  free  from 
ice.  Four  peaks  form  these  cols  ;  the  westernmost  and  furthest 
off"  appeared  to  be  the  highest. 

At  the  foot  of  these  peaks,  between  them  and  a  spur  of 
Kiyanja,  lies  a  valley  which  slopes  down  due  west.  Beyond 
this  sjjur  they  caught  sight  of  the  light  reflected  on  two  tiny 
lakes,  which  lie  at  the  bottom  of  another  valley  running  from 
no]-th  to  south,  starting  from  the  col  between  Kiyanja  and  the 
central  group. 

It  was  this  col  wliicli  the  Duke  wished  to  reach  and  to  make 
his  base  for  attaining  to  the  highest  peaks.  While  he  carefully 
noted  down  every  detail  of  the  country  which  -was  visible, 
taking  advantage  of  the  rifts  in  the  moving  mists,  a  guide  went 
forward  to  find  out  whether  it  might  not  be  possible  to  skirt  the 
western  slopes  of  Kiyanja  without  descending  to  the  bottom  of 
the  valley,  which  would  then  necessitate  reascendrng:  to  the 
farther  col.  The  guide  now  came  l)ack  and  Ijrought  news  that 
it  would  not  be  possible  to  skirt  tlie  mountain  because  its  side 

168 


LAKE   TO    THE   WEST   OF   JIT.    i;AKEi: — CHARRED   SEXECIDS. 


R5 


Ex 


X 


Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

towards  the  valley  was  precipitous.  They  were  therefore 
oblia:ed  to  o-o  down  to  the  lakes. 

Soon  after  midday  the  little  party,  leaving  a  portion  of  its 
loads  on  the  col  so  as  to  move  more  rapidly,  started  afresh,  and 
first  skirted  the  western  slope  at  the  same  level,  very  little 
under  the  pass  but  above  the  forest  of  senecios,  in  order  to 
reach  the  ridge  of  the  south-west  spur  of  Kiyanja. 

From  here  they  descended  towards  the  Ljwer  of  the  two  little 
lakes.  The  descent  was  steep,  the  mud  was  slippery,  and  their 
way  led  through  a  forest  of  senecios  and  chunps  of  helichrysum, 
which  the  guides  cut  and  liroke  with  ])li>ws  of  their  ice-axes  to 
clear  a  path.  There  were  great  smooth  .slabs  to  be  avoided, 
which  here  and  there  stuck  out  of  the  o-roimd  and  were 
too  steep  to  walk  upon.  The  porters  kept  striking  their  loads 
against  the  low  and  dense  ramifications  of  the  senecios.  .slipped 
on  the  bio-  .stones,  .stumbled  amoni;-  the  dead  trunks  and 
branches  which  lav  half-buried  in  the  mud,  and  had  to 
be  incessantly  encouraged  and  urged  to  proceed.  They  were 
overhung  l)v  the  precipitous  .sides  of  Kivanja.  Avliieh  threatened 
them  witli  stone  falls.  As  they  neared  tbe  bottom  of  the 
valley,  they  were  surprised  to  find  a  vast  tmct  of  senecio 
forest,  where  the  trunks  and  branches  were  bare,  blackened, 
and  partially  carl)onized  by  recent  fire.  There  was  no  sign 
to  indicate  the  passage  of  man,  nor  was  it  probaV)le  that  the 
inhabitants  of  the  valleys  would  have  pu.shed  .so  far  up 
witliout  cau.se  ;  hence  it  must  be  supposed  tliat  the  fire  was 
either  spontaneous  or  caused  by  lightning.  The  dense  mantle 
of  dead  leaves  which  hangs  downwards  aiound  e^•erv  branch  of 
the  senecio  imder  the  terminal  Inmcli  of  green  leaves,  and  which 
is  one  of  the  chief  features  in  the  strange  aspect  of  this 
curious   jilaiit,   ofi'ers   abundant    fuel   for   fire   and  is  as  easy  to 

171 


Chapter  VI. 

kindle  as  tinder.  It  niio-ht  i)erfectly  well  be  set  a])laze  merely 
tlaouoli  the  heat  developed  iu  fermentation,  which  must  be 
especially  active  and  energetic  in  this  climate.  The  fact  is 
interesting  were  it  only  to  sliow  that  there  must  be  occasional 
dry  spells  of  sufficient  length  to  allow  of  the  dead  leaves  getting 
dry  to  a  certain  extent,  for  in  the  soaked  state  in  which  they 
are  usually  found,  it  would  seem  cjuite  impossible  tliat  they 
sliould  provoke  a  conflagration.  Between  the  Ijlackened 
skeletons,  striplings  were  already  shooting  up  to  replace  the 
ruined    forest. 

The  party  reached  the  shore  of  the  first  lake  towards 
four  o'clock.  It  was  plainly  impossible  to  oblige  the  porters 
to  proceed  on  that  day.  The  Duke  decided  to  encamp  upon  a 
spur  which  runs  out  into  the  lake,  and  is  about  90  feet  high. 
The  level  above  the  sea  was  13,271  feet;  810  feet  above  the 
camp  of  Bujongolo. 

The  valley,  which  up  to  this  pt)int  ran  due  north  and  south, 
here  turns  abruptly  to  the  west,  becoming  so  narrow  that  the 
lakelet  fills  the  whole  bottom,  whicli  forms  a  sort  of  oval  basin 
resembling  a  crater  at  first  sioht.  A  few  ducks  wander 
over  the  water.  There  were  traces  of  leopards  and  marmots, 
and  a  few  crows  were  flying  overhead.  There  was  no  other 
sign  of  animal  life.  A  little  torrent,  falling  down  from  the 
glaciers  of  Kiyanja,  gave  abundance  of  water.  There  was 
plenty  of  wood  within  reach,  and  it  was  soon  possible  for 
everyone  to  dry  his  garments  around  a  big  fire. 

In  the  clear  fine  aftei-noon  the  little  lake,  barely  ruffled  by 
the  breeze,  reflected  the  snowy  peaks.  The  valley  was  one 
mass  of  flowers,  and  in  this  peaceful  scene  they  soon  forgot 
the  fatigue  of  the  hard  day.  The  sun  went  down  Ijehind  a 
dense  layer  of  clouds,  which  lay  aci'oss  the  skv  to  the  westwaixl. 

172 


THE   VPPER    LAKE    IX   THE    VALLEY   TO   THE   WEST   OF   MT.    BAKER. 


Peaks  of  the  Central   Group. 

Presently  the  sun  appeared  again  below  these  clouds  and 
lit  up  the  western  sky,  the  ^'alley,  and  the  vast  forest  of 
the  Congo,  which  merged  in  the  intense  red  of  the  far-off 
horizon. 

On  the  following  morning,  Laurent  Petigax,  Brocherel,  and 
three  native  porters  went  back  to  fetcli  the  loads  which  liud 
been  left  on  the  ])receding  day  on  the  pass  when  they  came 
up  from  Bujongold.  Tlie  otliers  set  ont  on  the  march  carrying 
the  rest.  They  skirted  the  two  little  lakes  at  the  foot  of  the 
slopes  of  Kiyanja,  cutting  their  way  step  by  step  through 
the  dense  tangle  of  senecio  and  lirlichrysum.  Between 
the  thickets  of  sempervivum  were  found  specimens  of  an 
exceedingly  beautiful  large  flowering  hypericum,  together 
witli  ranimculus,  several  plants  of  tlie  cruciferous  family, 
alchemilla,  balsam,  robbia,  etc.  The  vallev  was  narrow  and 
grim,  shut  in  between  steep  rocks,  diver  than  the  Mobuku, 
and  showing  many  and  clear  traces  of  glacier  action  at  a  not 
very  remote  ])eri()(l.  The  wliole  l)ottom  Avas  full  of  moraine 
rubbish,  mingled  with  detritus,  fallen  from  Kiyanja.  Both 
lakes  are  of  glacial  formation.  Under  the  lower  lake  lies 
a  frontal  moraine  forming  a  dam,  witli  a  spur  of  rounded 
rock.  The  two  lakes  are  divided  l)y  a  rocky  transversal 
ridge  covered  with  detritus.  Tt)  the  north  of  the  upper  lake 
lies  another  moraine  forming  a  steep  bank,  above  which  a 
higii  plain  slopes  upward.  Here  the  valley  widens  out  about 
two-thirds  of  a  mile.  At  the  toot  of  Kiyanja  is  a  long 
neve,  formed  by  avalanches  falling  over  the  side. 

The  valley  is  dominated  by  the  southern  peaks  of  the 
central  group,  from  wliicli  flovr  down  two  glaciers,  forming 
two  sources  of  the  torrent  ;  the  third  springs  from  a  glacier 
of  Kiyanja. 


Chapter  VI. 

Camp  III  was  funned  at  a  height  of  13,842  feet,  ahnost 
directly  under  the  two  peaks  of  Kiyanja,  which  the  Duke  liad 
ascended  six  davs  hefove.  Here  also  was  an  abundance  of 
water  and  of  fire-wot»d. 


HEAD   OF   THE   \'ALLEV   TO   THE   WEST   OF   MT.    BAKER. 

From     this    point     the     ascent     of    the     col*     offered     no 
difficulty.        The     way     followed     the     ridge     of     an     ancient 

*  Scott  Elliot  Pass. 
176 


S 
I 


Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

median  moraine,  wliicli  shows  that  at  one  time  the  glaciers 
of  Kiyanja  joined  those  of  tlie  central  group  ;iiid  ran  down 
into  the  valley  together.  The  senecios  and  p\  erlasting 
flowers  came  nearly  n])  to  the  top  of  tlie  col,  growing 
o-radually  less  dense. 

On  reaching  the  top  of  tlie  col,  the  party  followed  tiie 
ridge  westward  as  far  as  a  point  near  the  edge  of  the 
o'lacier,  whicli  runs  down  to  the  feet  of  tiie  southernmost 
peaks  of  the    central  group.      These   peaks  form   two    imposing 


CAMP    l\',    CI.OSK   To   THE    KI.K.NA    la.AClEli 


towers  of  rock.  The  camp  A\as  pitched  u})on  the  hroken 
stones  near  the  glacier  at  a  height  of  14.817  feet. 

There  were  now  rations  for  one  dav  onlv.  so  the  whole 
of  the  Bakonjo,  as  well  as  Lament  Petigax  and  Botta,  were 
sent  back  to  Bujongolo.  Jo.seph  Petigax,  Oilier  and  Brocherel 
remained  with  the   Duke. 

The  afternoon  was  clear  and  the  mountains  free  from 
cloud.  The  camp  overlooked  the  valley  with  its  little  blue 
lake,   which   liad    been  seen   from  the  ridge   at  the   top  of  the 

177  N 


Chapter  VI. 

Mobuku  Glaciei-.  Kroni  tlif  ool  wliicli  tliey  bad  just  traversecb 
a  nearly  ])erpeii(Hcular  rock  wall  tails  down  to  this  valley  on 
the  north.  The  eve  followed  the  vallev  fur  a  long-  distance 
eastward  and  saw  it  turn  southward  in  the  distance  to  join 
the  Molinku.  Tims  there  remained  no  possible  doubt  as  to 
this  beino-  really  the  Bujuku  Valley,  and  as  to  the  great 
suowv  nioiuitaui  to  the  north  l)einu-  really  tlie  Duwoiii  of 
.lohustou.  To  the  south-east  the  view  is  shut  out  by  tlie 
mass  of  Kiyauja. 

The  u'uides  who  had  elindjed  the  ulacier  to  make  out 
the  way  to  the  central  group  returned  towards  evening. 
The  sun.set  was  less  clear  than  on  the  preceding  days.  The 
extreme  nearness  of  tlie  goal  made  the  forced  delay  intoleral)le. 
The  Duke,  cooped  up  with  the  guides  in  the  narrow  space 
of  a  single  tent,  passed  a  great  portion  of  the  night  in 
anxious  watching,  preoccupied  by  disagreeable  doubts  as  to 
the  weather. 

Finalh'.  the  dav  dawned  on  the  18th  of  June  \\"ith  a  clouded 
grey  sky.  They  roped  together  hastily  and  in  silence.  Joseph 
Petigax  and  ( )llier  came  tirst,  then  the  Duke,  and  lastly, 
Brocherel.  'i'liey  heiian  the  ascent  of  the  iiflacier  alono-  the 
way  traced  l)y  the  guides  on  the  jj receding  day.  The  great 
ice  plain  was  reached  without  difficulty  in  about  one  hour. 
It  was  ().:!()  in  the  morning,  and  the  peaks  whicli  they  desired 
to  reach  stood  before  them  at  a  very  short  ilistance.  They 
were  both  covered  with  snow,  and  the  .southermnost,  which 
stood  nearest  to  tliem,  showed  a  I'ock  precipice  on  the  east 
side  suiinounted  by  a  bi<i-  cornice  of  snow  and  was  ioined 
by  a  romided  ice  col  to  the  northern  peak,  whicli  was  some- 
what higher,  and  from  which  ran  down  two  ridges,  one 
eastward  in  a  straight  line  towards  the  valley,  the  other  north- 


Peaks  ot"  the  Central  (irouj). 

westward,  slightly  c()llcavt^  and  ttniuiiiatiiii,^  in  a  characteristic 
shoulder.  The  peak  and  the  ridges  are  overhung  hy  a  gigantic 
cornice,  supported  by  a  colonnade  of  icicles  and  aiguilles  of  ice 
which  at  a  distance  seem  like  a  fine  white  lacework. 

Round  about  them  the  snow  had  the  pale,  lack-histrc  hue 
of  bad  Aveather.  For  one  moment  a  rav  of  suidight  lit  it  up. 
but  was  innnediately  ipienclied  1)V  the  dense  clouds  which 
were   piling   up   rapidly   from   tlie   east.       Gusts   of    wind    were 


ALEXANDRA    AND   lIAUfiirERITA   PEAKS   FROM   THE   STANLEY    I'LATE-W. 


blowiujif  from  the  east,  .iiid  layers  of  mist  were  asceudiui;'  tiie 
valley  in  com})act  masses  and  soon  shut  ni  tlie  ])arty  com- 
pletely. They  continued  tiieir  way  in  silence.  Without  tlie 
least  micertainty,  with  a  sure  intuition  of  tlie  right  direction, 
Joseph    Petigax     made     liis     way     tln-ougli     tlie     dense     mists 

17y  N  1' 


Cliapter  Xl. 

and  ascended  the  higli  plain  as  far  as  the  foot  of  tl 
south-east  ridov  of  the  southernmost  peak.  Tht*  hard  sn 
wliich  carried  tlieni,  allowed  them  to  climh  swiftly  up  the 
wide  snowv  ridge,  cutting  only  a  i't^w  steps  at  the  steei:)est 
points.      By  7.:^0  a.m.   they  reached  tlie   top  nf  tlie  fir.st  ])eak. 


le 
ow. 


CT.IMRIXr:    THE   SdlTH-KAST    KIDGE  'OF   AI-EXANDIIA    I'EAK. 

A  strong  wnid  was  blowing  from  the  east.  Round  about 
them  the  dazzling  white  of  the  mist  was  impenetrable  to 
the  sight.  Everyone  had  bis  mind  tixed  upon  the  highest 
summit,  which  was  oidv  a  i't-w  liundred  yards  off,  but  (juite 
invisible,  and  thev  stood  there  waiting;  and  turniiii'-  their 
eyes    obstinately    northward.        Dining    an    liour    and    a-half 

ISO 


g 
to 

Q 

S 

> 
o 


Peaks  of  the   Coiitial  lirou]). 

tliere  were  only  brief  moments  wlien  the  mist  would  grow 
slightly  thinner,  so  that  thev  could  just  make  out  the 
uncertain  outline  of  tlie  highest  peak. 

There  \\ere  only  two  ways  to  reach  it.  They  must  either 
descend  to  the  gap  and  thence  attempt  to  scale  tlie  ice  Avail 
oyerlumg  by  the  formidable  cornice,  or  they  must  return  to 
the  plateau,  cross  it  mider  the  col,  and  ascend  by  tlie 
east  ridge,  a  long  and  indirect  way,  which  would  ha\e  to  l)e 
done  in  the  fog  without  any  sion  to  miide  tliem.  As  to  the 
question  of  giving  up  the  ascent  fir  that  da\'  and  retmning 
to  camp,  a  glance  at  the  set  determined  faces  of  tlie  guides 
was  sufficient  to  show  that  such  an  idea  never  entered  their 
minds. 

By  nine  o'clock  tliey  could  not   endure  waiting  any  longer, 


CI.IMlilNC    .VI.E.X.VNDU.V    TKAK. 


and  they  decided  to  take  tlie  mountain  by  tlie  shortest  route, 
which  was  also  the  more  dangerous,  and  one  after  another 
they   started    down    the    slope    wliich    led    to  the    col.       They 

isi 


Chapter  \'I. 

proceeded  witli  tln-ir  t'aoes  tunit'd  to  tln^  \v;dl,  ]ilaciii<;'  tlnMi- 
feet  witli  eautiuii  in  the  wide  steps  wliicli  Petigax  cut  in  tlie 
snow,  wliicli  was  t'ortiuiatelv  liard  and  hore  tlieni  widl. 

The  col  is  a  narrow  strip  of  ice  between  two  w  itle  crevasses 
{liciyscjirtiud) :  these  crevasses  pass  fi-oni  (inc  peak  to  another 
without  a  single  bridge.  It  was  inxpo.ssible  to  turn  to  the  right 
or  to  the  left  ;  tliey  could  only  go  straight  forward  to  the  ice 
waH.    wliich   thev  could  bai'ely  make  out   through   the   mist. 

Where  the  slojje  connnenced  to  become  steep  they  put  down 
the-ir  rucksacks  and  otlier  Tuinece.ssary  impedimenta,  and  Petigax 
set  to  work  again.  They  soon  stood  nearly  vertically  one  above 
the  other,  climbing  slowlv  bv  tlie  steep  steps  whicli  Petigax  cut 
in  the  ice  wall,  showering  down  a  hail  of  snow  and  ice  upon  the 
otliers.  Below  them  the  wall  was  almost  immediately  swallowed 
up  in  tlie  mist,  so  that  they  seemed  suspended  over  a  bottondess 
aljvss. 

In  tliis  way  thev  reached  the  V)ottoni  of  tlie  cornice  wliere 
the  pendant  icicles,  joining  the  njtrigiit  ice  needles,  formed 
a  colonnade  as  thick  as  tlie  trees  in  a  forest,  u])on  wliich 
rested  tlie  heavy  snow-dome  wlio.se  solidity  «'as  open  to  doubt. 
Tlie  effect  seen  throtigh  the  mist  was  strange  and  weird.  In 
their  insecure  position,  liolding  fast  to  the  steep  slope,  thev  had 
to  climb  around  the  ice  columns  to  reach  tlie  point  where  the 
cornice  jutted  out  from  tlie  ice  wall  in  order  to  find  a  pa.s.sage. 
This  passage  they  found  in  a  cleft  of  tlie  cornice  which  formed 
a  narrow  vertical  g-ully  some  six  feet  hiuh.  ( )llier,  standinp- 
firmly  upon  a  wide  step,  served  as  a  ladder  for  Petigax,  who 
climbed  on  his  shoulders  and  then  ujion  his  head,  with  his  heavy 
nailed  boots,  and  stuck  his  ice-axe  tirnilv  in  the  snow  above  the 
cornice.  In  this  way  he  hoisted  himself  on  to  the  top.  It  was 
easy  enough  for  the  others   to  join    him.      The   ridge   was   now 

18i' 


Kt.KNA    AMI    SAVulA    I'KAKS,    AS   SKEN    FKiiM    niK   STANI.KV    (M.ACIKI; 


Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

vauqviished.      In  a  few  minutes  H.R.H.  set  foot  mion  the  lii<^liest 
peak  of  Ruwenzori. 

They  emerged  from  the  mist  into  splernhd  dear  sunlii;iit. 
At  their  feet  lav  a  sea  of  foi:-.  An  imnenetraljlp  laver  of  li'dit 
ashy-white  cloud-drifts,  stretcliini;-  as  far  as  the  eve  L-ould  ivacli, 
was  drifting  rapidly  north-westward.  From  tlie  immense 
moving  surface  emerged  two  fixed  points,  two  pine  white  jiraks 
sparkling  in  the  sun  with  their  invriad  snow  crvstals.  These 
were  the  two  extreme  summits  of  the  higliest  peaks.  'I'he 
Duke  of  the  Al)r>izzi  named  these  suimuits  Maroherit.i  and 
Alexandra  "  in  order  that,  inider  tlie  auspices  of  these  two 
royal  ladies,  the  memory  of  the  two  nations  mav  lie  lianded 
down  to  po.sterity — of  Italy,  whose  name  was  the  first  to 
resound  on  these  snows  in  a  sliout  of  victory,  and  of  England. 
\\liicli  in  its  marvellous  colonial  e.xpansion  carries  ci\'ilization 
to  tlie  slopes  of  these   remote   mountains."* 

It  was  a  thrillino'  moment  when  the  httle  tiicoloui-  tlao- 
given  hy  H.M.  Queen  Margherita  of  Savov.  unfurled  to  the 
w^ind  and  sun  the  eml)roidered  letters  of  its  inspiring  motto 
"  Ardisc.i  e  Spero  "  (Dare  and  Hope). 

The  wind  was  hlowing  up  i-ather  fresh  from  the  soiitli-e;ist 
A\itii  a  temperature  of  2;3  4  F.  (Calculations  from  the  olj.serva- 
tions  taken  gave  a  height  of  1G.815  feet  for  Margherita  Peak, 
and  16,749  feet  for  Alexandra  I'eak.  It  was  now  1].:10  a.m. 
They  had  taken  about  half  an  hour  to  get  down  from  tlie  first 
peak  to  the  col,  and  an  liom'  and  ;i-h;ilf  to  chnih  from  the  col  to 
Peak  Margherita.  Tliese  hours  were  full  <if  inten.se  excitement, 
owing  to  their  perpetual  fear  of  setting  the  way  hlorked  hy 
some  insuperable  obstacle. 

Margherita  Peak  is  all  covered  with  snow,  and  not  a  single 
*  Sei'  "  CTeographieal  Journal,"  Fuliniary,  I'.tOT,  p.  138. 
185 


Chapter  \'I. 

i-oek  conies  to  the  surface.  Tlu-  eastein  and  western  ridges 
seenieil  to  offer  easy  i-outes  to  tlie  suiniiiit. 

Tliev  remained  less  than  half  an  hour  on  the  peak.  There 
was  no  hope  of  the  mists  disappearing  that  day,  and  after 
tinishini:,'  the  harometric  and  thermometric  observations,  and 
enjoying  the  tirst  enthusiasm  of  victory,  tliey  began  to  feel  the 
penetrating  cold  of  the  wind.  There  was  an  impressive  sense  of 
.solitude  in  jjerching  upon  this  narrcnv  snowy  ridge,  with  the 
whole  eartli  cut  otf  from  them  by  the  mi.st.  Glaciers,  precipices 
and  ])eaks,  valleys  and  plains,  lakes  and  forests,  were  all  veiled 
l)y  tlie  dense  layer  of  fog,  interposed  like  a  l)arrier  between  the 
burning  regions  of  Equatorial  Africa  and  tlie  eternal  Alpine 
snows. 

Tliev  I'e-descended  the  ice  wall,  i-esumed  their  loads,  and 
returned  to  Alexandra  Peak.  By  2.20  p.m.  they  returned  to 
their  tent.  A  i'^w  liours  later  tliey  were  all  four  stricken 
witli  snow-l)lindness.  They  had  been  exposed  during  the  whole 
day  to  the  dazzling  whitene.ss  of  tlie  fog,  and  unable  to  make 
use  of  tlieir  l)lack  spectacles,  witli  which  it  was  impossible  to 
see  anvtinng  at  all.  They  spent  the  night  and  tlie  following  day 
in  the  tent,  bathing  their  swollen  and  weeping  eyes  with  tea. 

( )n  the  following  day,  "iOtli  of  June,  they  were  all  much 
better,  so  early  in  the  morning  tliey  started  from  the  tent  in  very 
tine  weatlier,  and  returned  to  Alexandra  Peak  liy  the  same  path 
wliich  thev  had  taken  two  days  befort^  The  Duke  arrived  on 
the  top  about  7. ■■:'>()  a.m.,  and  worked  for  a  long  time  at  measuring 
the  angles  of  the  peaks  and  the  .salient  points  of  the  chain.  He 
set  out  ayaiii  at  9.0  a.m.  Drifts  of  foy  were  now  beginning  to 
invade  the  scene.  They  returned  to  the  high  glacier-plain 
and  set  forth  for  the  two  fine  rock  and  ice  peaks  which  stood 
at   its  southern  extremity. 


Peaks  of  the  Central  Group. 

Half  an  liour  later  they  attacked  the  nearer  of  the  two, 
starting  up  a  gully  <>ii  the  eastern  sidr.  Al)(>ut  lialf-way  up, 
Avliere   it  was  steepest,  they  left   the  snow  to   elimh   on    to   tlie 


KLKNA    AND   SAVOIA    I'KAKS    Fl!(iM     illF.    KIIXJE   Ai;o\K    (AiMT    IV. 


rocks  to  till"  left  of  the  gullv.  wliicli  were  steep  and  not  easv, 
witli  few  hand-holds  \'ery  incon\"enientlv  disposed.  Then  they 
came  l)ack  into  tlie  gullv,  and  fullnwcd  it  up  tn  the  top,  where 
there  was  an  uidentation  m  the  iidge.  'I'hrougli  tiiis  they 
traversed  the  west  side,  facing  the  Congo,  and  clinil)ing  up 
easier  rocks,  reached  the  suniniit.  Here  they  spent  an  liour  in 
contemplating  the  peaks  and  glaciers  which  kept  appearing  and 

1S7 


Chapter  VI. 

disappeariiig  In   tlic  roiitimial   foiiiiatioii  aiicl   (lissoliitiou  of  the 
mists. 

Towards  twelve  o'clock   thev    once   more  set   out.   following- 
the  ridire  southward.      In   the  narrow  indentation   between  tlie 


CAMP    NEAi;    SCOTT   ELLIOTS    PASS. 


two  points  there  is  a  sharp  tooth  of  rock  \\itli  a  precipice  which 
falls  down  towards  the  Bujuku  Valley.  They  skirted  tliis  easily 
over  the  snow  slopes  on  the  Congo  side.      From  this  point,  first 

188 


Peaks  uf  the  Central  Group. 

over  a  siiowv  ridge  and  tlien  over  rocks,  tliey  reached  tlie  ice- 
cap which  terminates  the  second  peak. 

The  Duke  of  the  Ahruzzi  gave  the  name  Elena  to  the  first 
of  tliese  two  peaks,  1G,388  feet,  as  a  homage  to  our  gracious 
Queen,  and  the  name  of  Savoia  to  the  second,  1(3,339  feet. 
All  the  four  principal  jjeaks  of  the  central  group  had  now 
been  ascended.  Tiiev  could  see  the  camp  which  thev  liad  left 
that  verv  nnniiing  almost  vertically  imder  tlieir  feet.  Thev 
could  even  hear  the  shouts  of  the  rest  of  the  expedition,  who 
had  arrived  at  the  camp  from  Bujongolo  a  few  hours  Ijefore. 

Towards  2.30  p.m.  they  began  the  descent,  not  returning 
on  their  steps,  but  proceeding  southward  along  the  glacier  which 
covers  the  peak,  and  then  descending  the  eastern  rock  wall  as 
far  as  a  wide  e'uUv,  which  broup;ht  them  back  to  the  p'lacier  a 
little  above  the  camp. 

A  few  minutes  later  the  Duke  was  met  with  great  rejoicing 
bv  his  companions,  and  the  whole  expedition  was  now  once 
more  united. 

In  the  space  often  days  H.R.H.  had  a.scended  Kiyanja  and 
the  four  ice  peaks  of  the  principal  group  of  mountains,  had 
acc(jmplished  an  extensive  triangidation,  and  identified  the 
position  and  distribution  of  tlie  several  peaks  in  relation  to  the 
chief  valleys. 

The  21st  of  June  was  given  up  to  rest.  The  camp  was 
adorned  by  clothes  drying  in  the  smi  on  tlie  taut  cords  of  the 
tents,  which  were  now  four  in  numljer.  The  guides  .spent  the 
day  in  sleep.  The  afternoon  was  misty  ;  higlier  tip  it  was 
snowing.  The  silence  of  tlie  mountains  reigned  around,  liroken 
now  and  again  by  tl:e  roaring  of  an  ice  avalanche  fidling  into 
the  Bujuku  Valley.  The  dift'erent  members  of  the  expedition 
reportefl  what   they  had  done  during  the  last  davs. 

1S9 


diaj)ter  \'I. 

()i\  the  ]5tli  ot"  JuiK',  soon  after  tlie  Duke's  (le])aituie.  a 
party  of" porters  laden  with  ]>iovisions.  including  baskets  of  fowls 
and  a  few  sheep,  had  arrived  at  Bujougolo,  and  the  silent  and 
nearly  deserted  camp  had  become  suddeuly  full  of  noise. 

With  their  lielp,  on   the  16th  Sella  and  Roccati  set  out  in 

stairs  IVuk. 

I 


jrr.  i.uKa  in  savoia  sken  Fi:nM  the  sorrii  kidge  of  edwakd  i'eak.* 


their  turn  for  the  watershed  col,  bringing  mountain  camp 
equipment  and  photographic  apparatus.  They  pitched  their 
tents  immediately  beyond  the  col  on  a  sloping  rock,  and  made 
a  shelter  of  tent  canvas  for  the  porters.  The  fog  was  dense, 
the   wind  and  cold   bitino-. 

*  For  note,  see  following  page. 

190 


Peaks  of  the  Central  (in  tup. 

On  tlie  following  day,  during  some  brief  openings  in  tlie 
fog,  Sella  photographed  views  from  the  e<>l  and  fioni  a 
rock-point  on  tlie  ridge  near  the  camp.  The  \-er\-  sanip 
evening  the  Bakonjos,  who  had  been  sent  l)ack  bv  the  Duke 
from    Cam})    IV,    arrived    with    Laurent     Petigax    and     Botta. 


Sella  Peak. 

I 


Weisniami  Peak. 


.MT.    l.lKa    III    S.\vr)l.\    SEK.N    FROM    THK   si  )ITH    lUlxa-:    uK    KHW.Uai    I'K.VK.* 

EvervthiniJ'  was  frozen  and  covered  witli  hoar  frost.  Tlie 
natives  passed  tlie  night  around  a  big  fire,  wrapped  in  lilaukets 
and  cloaks  which  Sella  and  Roccati  gave  uji  to  them.  The 
cold  was  intense,  and  a  thimderstorm  was  raging.  (Jn  the 
followhig  day,  June  18th,  Cagni,  who,  as  we  have  already  said, 

*  The  alio\  e  illustrations  complete  one  another  and  form  a  paiioiania. 

191 


Chapter  VI. 

liad   nnivcd    at    Rujongolo   (in   tlie    IHtli,  and    Dr.    ( 'avalli  joined 
tlicir  CDniradcs  on   tlip  col. 

Uii  the  IDtli,  ( 'agni  and  Cavalli  with  their  caravan  of  porters 
descended  toward  the  little  lakes  to  the  west  of  Kiyanja.  The 
morning  was  clear,  and  the  view  was  open  to  the  westward  as 
far  as  beyond  the  Seniliki  valley  over  the  forests  of  the  Congo. 
Sella  and  Koccati,  accordingly,  tinned  their  steps  to  the 
ni<nnitains  to  the  sontli  of  the  jiass  with  the  })hotographic 
apparatns. 

We  have  already  said  that  tliis  is  an  impoi'tant  group  of 
mountains  witli  various  distinct  peaks,  between  which  are  small 
glaciers.  The  weather,  however,  sjjoiled  rapidly,  and  drifts 
of  vapom-.  driven  by  the  wind  from  the  east,  enveloped  the 
hiiilier  ridyes.  Thev  took  advantage  of  l)rief  clearin&s  in  the 
mist  to  clind)  the  north-east  point  of  the  group,  which  they 
reached  after  three  hoiu's  of  ascent,  partly  over  rocks  and  partly 
upon  the  easy  glacier  to  the  west.  They  remained  upon  this 
peak  until  four  in  tlie  afternoon,  and  were  several  times  beguiled 
by  apparent  meltings  of  the  fog  into  setting  up  the  photogi"aphic 
apparatus.  Night  sm'prised  them  on  their  way  down  into  the 
valley  to  rejoin  their  comrades.  They  lost  the  track  and 
wandered  about  upon  the  steep  slope  in  the  foi'est  of  lobelia  and 
senecio,  among  the  dense  heliclu-ysum,  seeking  for  a  way  in  tlie 
darkness  intensified  by  the  mist,  and  slijaping  at  every  step  in 
the  mud  and  on  the  damp  and  mossy  rocks.  At  last  their 
conu'ades  heard  their  shouts  and  sent  two  guides  to  meet  them 
with  a  lantern.  They  soon  I'eached  the  camp  near  the  lake, 
surromided  by  the  fires  of  the  natives. 

( )n  the  following  day  they  all  reached  the  foin-th  camp,  from 
which  they  were  able  to  descry  the  Duke's  party  on  tlie  sky 
line  on  tlie  summit  of  Savoia  Peak. 

192 


CHAPTEU  VII. 

Formation-    and    General   Features   of   the 
RuwENZORc  Range. 

Kuwenzori  ;iii(l  the  "Allmrtiiic  Depression  " — Eehitioii  to  the  Nile  Basin — 
Nomenclature  —  H.K.H.'s  Map  —  The  Six  Groups  of  Snow  Peaks  —  The 
AVatershed — The  Distriljution  of  the  Valleys — ^AVhat  preceding  Explorers 
saw  of  the  Mountains — Confusion  of  Names  and  Topography — Altimetric 
Measurements — The  (ieology  of  the  Kange — The  (Tlaeiers — Floia  and  Fauna. 


The  story  of  tlie  explonition  of 
the  two  cliiti-f  <;-roups  of  jieaks 
lias  put  us  ill  possession  of 
sufficient  data  to  peiuiit  of  oui- 
givino-  at  this  point  a  systematic 
description  of  tlie  Tiuwenzori 
ranire.  A  more  detailed  know- 
ledo-e  of  tlie  distribution  of  the 
grou])s  of  the  range  and  of  their 
position  with  respect  to  the 
vallevs  will  help  to  render  the 
account  of  the  suhseipieiit  work 
of  the  expedition  both   (piicker  and  easier. 

The  Ruwenzori  chain  is  distinouishcd  liy  extremely 
remarkable  orohydrographical  features.  Most  of  the  con- 
tinents   slope    graduallv  from   the  summits    of  their  numntain 

19.i  o 


Chapter  VII. 

ranges  down  to  tlieir  liigli  central  plateaux  and  thence  to 
the  coast  level.  In  Africa,  on  the  contrary,  Ruwenzori 
rises  from  the  so-called  "  Albertine  Depression,"  a  low  district 
forming  a  region  about  (JOO  to  700  feet  below  the  average 
level  of  Usanda,  and  contaiuino;  the  Ijasins  of  Lake  Albert 
and  of  Lake  Albert  Edward  with  its  northern  prolongation, 
Lake  Dweru   or  Ruisamba. 

Tlie  whole  of  this  depression  forms  simplv  a  portion  of 
the  western  "rift."  The  "rifts"  consist  of  two  gigantic 
trenches,  from  20  to  50  miles  in  width,  rurmino-  nearlv 
parallel  to  one  another,  with  an  interval  of  G'  longitude, 
and  cutting  through  the  continent  from  Lake  Nyassa  north- 
ward. The  easternmost  of  the  two  follows  the  36th  meridian 
as  far  as  Lake  Rudolph,  Ijeyonfl  wliich  it  inclines  towards 
the  Red  Sea.  The  western  rift  runs  between  the  29th 
and  ;30th  meridian  and  comes  to  an  end  near  Gondokoro  in 
the  Upper  Nile  Valley.  Either  rift  includes  a  nearly  continuous 
chain  of  lakes  and  numerous  mountains  and  volcanic  cones  and 
craters.  Either  rift  is  divided  l)v  a  transversal  watershed 
into  two  separate  hydrographic  systems,  one  to  the  north, 
the  otlier  to  the  south.  In  tlie  case  of  the  eastern  rift  this 
ridee  is  near  Lake  Naiwasha,  about  where  the  Uiranda 
Railway  traverses  the  depression.  In  the  Avestern  rift  the 
watershed  is  formed  by  a  veritable  range  of  volcanic  mountains 
of  Avhicli  some  are  still  active  at  the  present  time.  This  range 
divides  the  chain  of  lakes  into  two  distinct  systems.  The 
southern  system  includes  Lakes  Kivu  and  Tanganlka ;  the 
northern  system,  Lakes  Albert  Edward  and  Albert. 

At  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Ruwenzori  chain  tlie 
rift  bifurcates  :  one  branch  luns  to  the  east  of  the  chain 
and    terminates    at  the    foot  of   the  heights  wliich  enclose  the 

o 

194 


Formation  and  (leneral  Features  of  lluwcnzori. 

basin  of  Lake  Riiisamba  to  the  imrtli  and  upon  wliicli  are 
situated  Toro  ami  P'ort  Portal ;  the  othei-  branch  passes  to  the 
west  ot  tlie  I'anye  and  forms  the  Sendiki  Vallcv  ;nid  the  basin 
of  Lake  Albert,  and  is  prolonged  for  several  hundred  miles 
by  the  upper  valley  of  tlie  Nile.  Huwenzori  is  thus  nearlv 
completely  surrounded  by  the  "  Albertine  Depression,'  and  forms 
with  the  three  lakes  an  independent  bvdroi;raphic  svstt-ni 
absolutely  distinct  from  that  of  Lake   Victoria. 

Thus  it  is  that  this  lluwenzori  r;nii;e  siieds  the  waters  of 
all  its  .slopes  east,  west,  noi-th  and  south  into  one  and  the 
same  river  basin,  feeding-  almost  unassisted  the  three  lakes 
and  the  Sendiki,  which  together  form  tlie  south- western 
sources  of  the  Nile.  Km-thermoi'p.  lluwenzori  hein^-  without 
doubt  the  most  considerable  u-rouji  ot'  snow  \-  mountains  on 
the  African  continent,  and  situated  in  the  middle  of  tliat 
continent,  and  running;-  in  the  dn-ection  of  its  main  axis. 
d(jes  not  form  a  portion  of  its  main  watershed.  'I'Jie  actual 
waterslied  between  the  Coni;d  and  the  Nile  consists  of  a  line 
of  low  hills,  lying  at  a  short  distance  to  the  west  of  the 
Semliki,  and  masked  bv  the  "reat  C-onw)  forest,  running' 
noithwaiil  along  Lake  Albert,  jirolonged  southwaicl  in  the 
volcanic  chain  which  forms  the  duiding  ridge  of  thp  rift, 
between  Lakes  Kivu  and  Albert  Edward,  and  tinallv  skirting 
the  eastern  shores  of  Lake  Kivu  and  of  Lake  Tanganika. 

The  Duke  of  the  Abnizzi  preserves  to  the  chain  the  name 
of  Ruwenzori,  given  to  it  by  its  first  disco\'erer,  Staniew  and 
adopted  since  then  by  the  majority  of  geogra])hers. 

Stanley  iiad  heard  the  natives  dwelling  to  the 
north  and  west  of  these  mountains  call  tla-m  by  the 
names  Ruwenzori,  Ukoiiju,  Bugombowa,  A\uiuka,  Avirika, 
Ruweii/Jiru-ru,     Ruwenjura,    etc.         Ht^    was    of    opinion     that 

195  o  2 


Chapter  VII. 

Ruwenzoii  was  tln'  name  most  conuiiouly  in  use  in  Bantu, 
and  that  it  ^vas  to  lie  tianslated  as  "  King  of  tin-  Clouds." 
or  '■  Rain-maker." 

Stuhlniann  gathered  the  names  Ru-nssoro  and  Ru-ndjuru 
from  the  Wanvoro  and  Wakonjo  natives.  In  their  (halects 
Niurn  and  Nssoro  slgnifv  I'ain,  which  confirms  Stanley's 
interpretation  of  the  name  but  with  a  considerable  change 
in  the  orthography.  David  also  wrote  Rii-nssoro ;  he  also 
heard   tlie  liighest  peaks  called  Kokora. 

Scott  Elliot  gives  Kunsororo  as  the  native  name,  and 
says  that  he  lieard  from  many  sources  the  name  Kiriba, 
which  would  mean   "  liigli  peak." 

According  to  A.  B.  Fisher,  the  natives  of  Uganda  have 
no  collective  name  to  indicate  the  entire  range,  but  only 
separate  names  for  the  individual  peaks.  He  gives,  however, 
the  names  Ptwenzozi  and  Rwenseri,  which  he  interprets  as 
meaning  "  Mountain  of  Mountains  "  or  "  The  Mountain  "  par 
excellence,  or  as  "  The  Moimtaln  oti'  there,"  indicating  direction. 
Birika  which  resembles  the  Virika  of  Casati.  and  Avuruka 
and  the  other  variations  of  Stanley,  would  simply  mean 
snow. 

Sir  Harrv  Jolinston  heard  the  snowv  portion  of  tlie  chain 
called  Euchurru  by  the  Nyoro  natives  ;  as  Ansororo  (snow) 
in  Lukonjo  ;  while  among  tlie  Southern  Bakonjos  he  gathered 
the  name  Obweruka  ;  among  the  Banjoro,  Ebirika  ;  among 
the  Baamba,  to  the  north-we.st  of  the  range,  Gusia  :  amonu' 
the   Baganda,  Gambaragara,  etc. 

In  so  great  an  micertainty  as  to  the  nomenclature. 
Stanley  had  every  right  to  select  a  name,  and  even  if  his 
transcription  should  not  be  held  to  correspond  with  euplionic 
exactitude    to  the   native   word,   vet   it   might   be  best    to   keep 

196 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  IJinven 


zori. 


it  as  it  stands,  even  were  it  only  out  of  respect  to  tlie  great 
exijlorer.  After  all,  had  Stanley  given  the  range  a  name 
which  had  nothing  to  rlo  witli  the  native  names,  had  he 
called  it,  for  example,  "  Momitains  of  the  Moon,"  r)r 
"Mountains  of  Ptolemy,"  or  "Victoria  Mountains,"  or  anv 
similar  name,  all  geographers  would  have  accepted  Jiis  clioice 
without  discussion  and   without   anv  attempt    to  iiiodifV   it. 

These  hrief  remarks  ujidu  tin'  uaiuf  of  liuwciizori  will 
sutKce  to  indicate  the  inipossihilitv  of  attem[)tiiig  to  gather 
local  native  names  foi-  each  special  mountain  and  peak  of  the 
range.  So  far  similar  attempts  have  given  as  a  result  a 
separate  nomenclature  for  each  explore^-.  It  is  extremely 
])rohahle  that  the  natives  ne\er  had  indi\idual,  specific 
names  for  each  peak,  all  the  moiv  so  if  we  reflect  that  in 
our  own  European  Alps,  many  peaks  received  their  name 
only  after  the  advent   of  Alpine  climhing. 

It  was  clearly  indispensable  to  give  to  the  liuwenzori  range 
some  .sort  of  nomenclature,  which  is  the  onlv  means  of  translatnii;' 
into  current  language  the  topogiaphical  smvev  of  a  region. 

Out    of  natural   courtesy  towards   those  of  liis   predeces.sors 

who    had    alreach'    christened     some     of    the     momitains.     the 

L)uke,    after    his    return    from     Africa.     mter\iewed    Sir    Harrv 

Johnston  and  Dr.  Stuhlmann  upon  this  suhject.      An  agreement 

was  ea.sy,  because   l)oth   of   tliese  great  authorities  shared    the 

opinions  of  the  Prince,  who  proposed  to  give  to  these  mountains 

the  names  of  travellers  lono;  a.ssociated  with  the  history  of  Central 

African  exploration,  and  confining  to  single  peaks  those  names 

which  Stuhlmann  had  given  to  whole  portions  of  the  range.* 

*  Sir  Harry  Johnston  h.id  alroiuiy  suggested  that  the  mountains  should  be 
called  by  the  names  of  celebrated  explorers  in  those  cases  where  no  precise  and 
specific  native  names  were  forthcoming.  {Sir  "  'I'he  Uganda  Protectorate," 
■Jiid  Ed.,  London,  1904,  Vol.  T.  jt.  159.) 

197 


Chapter  MI. 

Tlie  ninp  of  Punvcnzdii  is  tlie  cliief  geographical  result  of 
the  Italian  Expedition.  This  map  was  drawn  up  from  data 
coiisistlnir  of  numerous  anji'idar  measurements  carried  out  l)v 
the  Duke  from  the  dift'erent  peaks  by  means  of  tlie  prismatic 
compass,  which  were  completed  by  the  mensuration  of  a  l)ase 
line  of  300  yards  taken  on  ground  near  to  Bujongolo,  by 
Commander  Cagni,  and  by  him  connected  with  Kiyanja  (the 
Edward  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker),  and  witli  a  rocky  peak  (Cagui 
Peak)  situated  to  tlie  north-east  of  Bujongolo,  from  the 
sunmiit  of  whicli  ( 'agni  himself  took  all  the  angles  of  the 
peaks  with   a   held  theodolite. 

Last  of  all,  the  calculation  of  the  longitude  and  latitude 
of  Bujongolo  permits  us  to  put  the  chain  in  its  place  on  the 
map  of  Africa.* 

The  obseryations  were  taken  in  unfavourable  atmospheric 
conditions,  nor  was  it  possible  in  all  cases  to  take  them  with 
an  instrument  of  precisioii  so  heavy,  delicate,  and  cumbersome  as 
the  theodolite.  In  spite  of  these  di'a whacks  the  topographical 
sketch  may  ])e  considered  as  fairly  accurate,  because  it  is  based 
n})on  numerous  observations  often  repeated  over  and  over  again 
at  tlie  same  points,  and  which  are  in  great  part  reciprocal, 
so  as  to  admit  of  mutual   verification  one  from  another. 

The  rano-e  of  Puwenzori  is  situated  less  than  half  a  dei>ree 
north    of   the    equator,    and    about    30°    long.    E.    Greenwich. 


*  According  to  the  map  annexed  to  this  volume,  Bujongolo  is  situated  at 
0°  20'  23"  lat.  X.,  and  ;!0°  1'  34"  long.  E.  Greenwich.  The  nnml>eis  are 
a  few  seconds  above  those  given  on  the  map  which  accompanies  the  lecture 
of  H.R.H.  before  the  Italian  Geographical  Society,  and  pulilished  in  Fasc.  2, 
Part  2,  Vol.  VIII  of  the  "  Bollettiiio,"  l)ecHUse  it  was  only  later  that  he 
obtained  from  the  Astronomical  Observatory  of  Greenwich  the  necessary  data 
for  the  correction  of  the  lunar  tables  contained  in  the  ephemerids  in  order  to 
assign  its  exact  value  to  the  stiaight  ascent  of  the  moon. 

IKS 


Formation  and  (xeuei-al  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 

The  general  directiou  is  north  and  south,  and  the  shape  is  very 
nearly  that  of  a  ^ratten  G.  The  principal  groups  would 
compose  the  main  curve  of  the  G.  wliile  one  group  onlv, 
that  farthest  south,  would  represent  the  tail  of  the  letter. 

The  range  consists  of  six  mountains,  i.e.,  groups  of  peaks 
witli  glaciers,  divided  from  one  anotlier  l)v  cols  without  snow, 
and  therefore  ipiite  clearly  distinct  from  (tm^  another.  The 
area  actually  covered  by  glaciers  is  a  little  more  than  seven 
miles  long-  in  a  straiffht  line  from  soutli  to  north,  and  about 
four  miles  wide  from  east  to  west.  The-  lenath  of  the  vvatei'shed 
ridge,  including  all  the  groups,  tliat  is  to  sav,  tlit^  entire  snowv 
range,   is  about    11   miles  long. 

The  chain  begins  in  the  north  with  two  groujis,  two  parallel 
snow  ridges  running  nearly  due  north  and  south.  The  eastern- 
most of  these  was  named  by  the  Duke  Mt.  Gessi,  in  memory 
of  the  Italian  explorer  who  was  the  first  to  circunmavigate 
Lake  Albert.  The  western  group  was  named  Mt.  Emin,  after 
Emin  Pa.sha,  who  traversed  the  Semliki  Valley  for  the  first 
time  with  Stanley. 

Mt.  Emin  joins  Mt.  Speke,  which  Ijears  tlie  name  of  the 
first  discoverer  of  the  .sources  of  the  Nile  in  Lake  Victoria. 
After  Mt.  Speke  the  chain  turns  westward,  rises  to  the  highest 
group,  rightly  called  Mt.  Stanley,  and  sweeps  around  in  an 
eastward  curve  to  the  grouj)  which  bears  the  name  of  Baker, 
the  discoverer  of  Lake  Albert,  who  liad  the  first  glimpse  of 
tlie  mountain  ranges  of  Ruwenzori. 

Last  of  all,  the  group  to  the  .soutli  of  Mt.  Baker,  which 
runs  from  north-east  to  south-west,  had  l)een  called  by  H.K.H. 
Mt.  Thomson,  in  memory  of  J.  Thomson,  wliose  work  in  Nigeria 
is  well  known.  But  after  his  return  to  Europe  the  Duke  was 
forced   to  yield   to   the   proposal    of  the   English   Geographical 

199 


Chapter  A' 11. 

Society,  which  desired  tliat  liis  own  name  should  he  in  some 
way  connected  witli  his  discoveries,  and  that  Mt.  Thomson 
should  be  called  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savnia.  The  name  of  Thomson 
has  ])een  preserved  to  indicate  one  of  the  glaciers  of  the  same 

OTOlip. 


MT.    STA.MEY    FUi  OI    THE    EinVAKn    PEAK    OF    MT.    liAKEK. 


Mt.  Stanlev  is  tlie  otoui)  which  includt-s  the  hio-hest 
peaks  of  all,  namely.  Margherita  (10.815  feet),  Alexandra 
(16,749  feet),  Elena  (1G,388  feet),  and  Savoia  (1G,339  feet). 
There  is  a  tiftli  ])eak,  Moebius,  between  Elena  and  Alexandra, 
and  somewhat  lower  than  Savoia,  of  which  tlie  lieigiit  has 
not  been  measured.  Tlie  so-called  "  western-most  sunnnit  "  of 
Mt.  Stanley,  mentioned  by  Freshfield,*  and  visible  from  Butiti, 
*  See  "Geog.  Jour.,"  29t]i  :\rai-di,  ]!i07,  p.  :V_>7. 
200 


Formation  and  (leneral  Features  of  Kuwenzori. 

appearing  conspicuously  to  the  viglit  of  Marglieiitit  Peak 
on  the  panorama  taken  by  H.R.H.  from  Mt.  Gessi.  is  not  so 
much  a  real  peak  as  a  projecting  shoulder  upon  tlie  north-west 
ridge  of  Margherita  Peak  as  maybe  clearly  seen  on  the  plate 
facing  p.  178.  Next  in  height  comes  Mt.  Speke  with  its  two 
peaks,  Vittorio  Emanuele  (1(;,()8()  feet)  and  Johnston  (15, DOG 
feet).  Mt.  Baker  follows  with  Eldward  Peak  (15,988  feet)  anil 
Semper  Peak  (15,84?.  feet),  which  were  the  tirst  clinihed  hv  the 


NOHTH-WEST   S)lori,DER    OF    M AKi^llKlilTA    rE.VK. 


Duke.  To  the  east  of  these  are  Wollaston  Peak  (15,286  feet), 
named  after  Dr.  Wollaston,  Avho  was  the  first  to  ascend  it,  and 
Moore  Peak  (15,269  feet).  The  rockv  spur  on  the  ridge  at 
the  top  of  the  Mobuku  Glacier  has  preserved  the  name  of 
Grauer  wlio  was  tlie  first  to  discover  it. 

Of     tlie     two     northernmost    groups     Mt.     Emin      mclude.s 

I'dl 


Chapter  MI. 

Umberto  Peak  (15,797  feet)-"  and  Kraepelin  Peak  (15,752). 
Mt.  Gessi  includes  lolauda  Peak  (15,G47  feet)  and  Bottego  Peak 
(15,483  feet).  Last  of  i\Jl,  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  includes  the  Peaks 
Weismann  (15,299  feet),  Sella  (15,286  feet)  and  Stairs  (15,059 
feet).  The  rocky  point,  opposite  Bujongolo  (14,82G  feet),  is 
named  after  Cagni,  who  climbed  it  to  complete  from  it  tlie 
triangulation. 

The  principal  glaciers  have  taken  their  names  from  the 
peaks  from  wliicli  they  flow  down. 

The  live  pa.sses  which  separate  the  six  groups  from  one  another 
have  been  named,  proceeding  from  north  to  south,  Roccati, 
Cavalli,  Stuhlmann,  Scott  Elliot  and  Freshfield.  They  are  all 
above  14,000  feet  in  lieight,  except  Stuhlmann's  Col  between 
the  two  jjrincipal  groups,  Speke  and  Stanley,  whicli  is  only 
13,757  feet  high. 

The  Duke  of  tlie  Abruzzi  has  left  the  native  names  used  by 

the  Bakonjo  to  the  valleys,  lakes,  rivers  and  torrents.      When, 

however,    the    names    were    numerous,  he   took   no    account    of 

them  ;  and  he  also  left  without  name  those  valleys,  lakes  and 

torrents   on   tlie  western    slopes  wiiich    were    unknown    to    the 

Bakonjo.      It    i-emains  for    some   future  explorer  to  gather  the 

native  names  from  the  western  tribes. 

*  Umberto  Peak  is  1.5,797  feet  high  and  not  15,907  as  was  printed  by 
error  in  the  map  reproduced  from  that  of  the  Italian  Expedition  by  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society,  and  published  with  H.K.H.'s  London  lecture  in  the 
"Geographical  Journal  "  for  February,  1907.  The  same  map  also  assigns  to 
Moebius  Peak  of  Stanley  an  altitude  of  16,214  feet.  This  altitude  is 
merely  approximate,  because  no  barometrical  observation  was  taken  on 
Moebius  Peak.  Also  the  altitude  of  Weismann  Peak  is  15,299  feet  and  not 
15,27.3  feet.  I  take  this  opportunity  to  note  that  the  highest  peak  of 
Mt.  Baker  and  the  second  peak  of  Mt.  Stanley  are  to  be  called  simply 
Edward  Peak  and  Alexandra  Peak,  not  King  Edwartl  and  Queen  Alexandra  ; 
by  analogy  with  the  names  Margherita,  Yittorio  Emanuele,  and  Elena  Peaks, 
and  also  with  the  nomenclature  adojited  in  the  neighbouring  regions,  e.ij., 
Lake  Victoria,  Lake  Albert,  etc. 

202 


Topographical    Skebch 

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RUWEINZORI      RANGE 


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Formation  and  (Jeneral  Features  of  Kuwenzori. 

The  watershed  hue  starting  from  the  peak  to  the  extreme 
.south,  the  Weismauu,  runs  eastward  alono-  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia, 
then  northwards  over  Freshtield's  Col  and  along  Edward  Peak 
and  Semper  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker.  From  this  point,  making 
a  wide  half-circle,  it  runs  along  tlie  high  ridge  of  the  Bujukti 
Yallev  over  Scott  Elliot's  Col,  over  tlie  peaks  of  Mt.  Stanley 
and  Stuhlmann's  Col  as  far  as  Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak,  tlien 
descends  along  the  nortli-east  ridge  of  Mt.  Speke  to  Cavalli's 
Col,  traverses  the  summit  of  the  two  parallel  groups,  Emin  and 
Gessi.  cro.ssiug  Roccati's  Col  l)etween  them.  From  lolanda 
Peak  of  Mt.  Gessi  it  follows  a  south-easterly  ridue  to  the 
groujj  of  the  Portal   Peaks,  whence  it  turns  north-east  again. 

The  most  important  river  hasin  to  the  east  of  the  chain 
is  that  of  the  Bujuku  Vallev.  wliich  is  sm-rounded  hy  five 
mountain  liiouns  and  is  fed  hy  the  "leatei'  glaciers  of  Mt. 
Stanley,  Mt.  Speke,  and  Mt.  Gessi.  The  Upper  Mobuku 
Vallev.  oil  tlip  other  hand,  receive.s  only  the  waters  of  the 
Baker  glaciers  and  of  a  few  little  glaciers  on  the  eastern  side 
of  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  through  the  Mahoma  torrent.  Hence 
the  MoV)uku  River  is  much  smaller  than  the  Bujuku  River, 
and  is  in  reality  a  mere  affluent  of  it.  It  would,  therefore,  be 
more  geographically  correct  to  name  the  entire  valley  Bujuku, 
even  if  only  because  the  two  greater  mountains  stand  at  its 
head  as  well  as  Stuhlmann's  Col,  which  is  the  deepest 
depression  of  the  whole  range  and  lower  than  Fre.shfield's 
Col.  The  name  Mobuku,  however,  as  applied  to  both  river 
and  valley,  has  lieeii  so  widely  spread  by  preceding  explorers 
that  H.R.H.  did  not  think  fit  to  change  it,  in  order  to 
avoid  confusion  in  the  nomenclature. 

The  atmosphere  around  Ruwenzori  is  .so  misty  and  .so 
lacking  in   transparency,  even  in  fine   weather,  that  tlie  Duke 

203 


Chapter  \U. 

never  succeeded  in  i;ettiiii;-  i'loin  the  peaks  a  clear  view  of  tlie 
valleys  to  tlic  west  of  tlie  oliain  so  as  to  ohtaiii  an  aocnrate 
idea  of  tlieir  direction  and  distrilmtion.  As  far  as  lie  was 
able  to  observe,  lie  formed  tlie  opinion  tliat  the  fonr  valleys 
ninnini^  down  from  the  Cols  Freslifield,  Scott  Elliot,  Stnhlmann, 
and  (Aivalli  (marked  A,  B,  C,  D  on  the  map)  joined  toi;ether 
to  form  the  Butagn  Vallev,  which  would  consefjuently 
collect  the  waters  of  tlie  western  glaciers  of  Mts.  Luigi  di 
Savoia,  Baker,  and  Stanley,  and  a  great  part  of  those  of  the 
Speke  Glacier  and  of  the  glaciers  of  Mt.  Emin.  Thus  this 
would  be  the  most  important  of  the  western  valleys.  It  is 
probable  that  Mt.  Emin  and  Mt.  Gessi  contribute  to  feed 
the  Russirubi  and  the  Iluame  Rivers  (E  and  F  of  the  ma})), 
which,  like  the  Butagu,  are  affluents  of  the  Semliki,  and  that 
the  southern  valley,  Nyamwamba,  runs  up  as  far  as  the  glaciers 
of  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia.  The  torrents  Yeria  and  AVimi 
would   not  be  fed  bv  glaciers  at  all. 

With  tlie  help  of  our  precise  knowledge  of  the  range  we 
may  now^  attempt  to  collate  with  one  another,  and  with  the 
data  furnished  by  H.R.H.,  the  discoveries  and  descriptions 
of  the  preceding  explorers. 

Of  all  these  predecessors,  Stanley  was  the  one  who  had 
the  most  frequent  oj^portunities  of  seeing  either  the  single  peaks 
or  the  range  from  tlie  nortli,  the  west,  and  the  south.  He  left, 
however,  vague  records  onlv,  and  clearlv  the  reality  of  the 
picture  has  been  too  greatlv  altered  bv  the  illustrator  of  his 
book  to  make  it  possible  to  determine  the  individual  moimtalns 
in  his  illustrations.  At  the  very  most  it  is  possil)le  to  recognize 
Margherita  Peak  and  Mt.  Speke  confused  in  a  single  group 
in  the  view  taken  from  Kavalli  to  the  north  of  the  mountains, 
and  reproduced  on  ]>.  1^30  of  "  In  Dai-kest  Africa,"  A^ol.  II. 

-.'04 


Forniatiou  and  (ieneral  Features  of  l»uwenzori. 

Tilt-  mountain  of  wliicli  Stairs  caught  a  glimpse  on  liis  wav 
\ij)  a  valley  to  the  uorth-west  of  the  chain,  perhaps  the 
liussirubi  Valley,  was  j)ro1)ably  Mt.  Emin.  This  mountain  is 
illustrated  on  p.  256  of  the  above-mentioned  volume,  and 
this  view,  taken  from  tlie  west,  corresponds  fairly  in  appearance 
to  Mt.  Eniiu  from  the  east  in  the  photographic  panorama  taken 
by  H.R.H.  from  the  L)lan(la  JVak  of  :\[t.  Gessi.  {See 
illustration,   p.    241.) 

As  to  the  "  Saddle  Peak  "  of  Staidey,  it  certainly  corresponds 
to  the  two  peaks  Alexandra  and  Margherita,  which  stand  in 
a  line  running  north-east  to  south-west.  To  any  one  observing 
tliem  as  Stanley  did  from  the  north-west  or  south-east,  tliev 
would  appear  as  twin  peaks,  whereas  one  would  be  liidden  bv 
the  other  if  the  observer  .stood  in  a  line  with  them. 

More  exact  accounts  of  the  chain  have  been  given  to  us  bv 
Stuhlmann.  The  more  or  less  schematic  illustration  of  the 
chain,  as  seen  from  the  southern  part  of  the  Semliki  Valley  to 
the  south-west  of  the  great  peaks,  and  reproduced  on  p.  281 
of  Stuhhnann's  book,*  can  easily  be  identified  on  the  map  of 
H.  H.H.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the  central  and  m-eatest 
mountain  group  given  bv  Stuhlmann  under  the  name  '"Semper" 
is  to  be  identified  with  the  Mt.  Stanley ;  hence,  the  two  moun- 
tains to  its  rioht.  designated  bv  Stuhlmann  with  the  names 
Weismann  and  Moebius,  cannot  be  anvthing  but  Mt.  Baker  and 
Mt.  Luio-i  di  Savoia.  As  to  the  momitain  called  ])v  Stuhlmann 
Kraepelin,  whose  summits  are  liarely  visible  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  Semper,  this  must  be  Mt.  Emin.  From 
Stuhhnann's  point  of  observation,  Mt.  Speke  must  have  been 
hidden  by  Mt.  Stanlev,  or  only  partly  visil)le,  and  easily  con- 
founded with  it.  This  fact,  namely,  the  omission  of  Mt.  Speke 
*  Dr.  F.  Stuhlmann,  "  ,Mit  Emin  Pasha  in.s  Herz  von  Africa."  Berlin,  1894. 

205 


Chai)ter  VII. 

from  Stulilniaim's  diagram,  became  later  on.  as  we  sliall  see,  one 
of  the  chief  causes  of  confusion  in  the  attempt  to  colkte  the 
view  of  the  chain  from  the  east  with  Stulihnanu's  description 
of  the   chain  as  seen  fmni  the  west. 


E^^S 

^' 

■>■              '      '■  •^^^"- 

-'. 

>n'.    SI'AXl.EV   FllOM    THE   WEST,    ElluM    A    I'lH  iTi  MaiAI'lI    TAKKN    IN    THE 
BUTAtir    VALLEY    1!Y    PK.    F.    STllILMANN. 

By  the  kind  permission  uf  Dr.  Stulihnann  and  liis  puhhshers 
we  are  able  to  reproduce  the  very  interesting  and  fine  engraving 
which  faces  p.  188  of  his  hook,  and  was  made  from  a  })hoto- 
graph  which  he  took  from  the  highest  point  reached  hy  him  in 
the  Bntaa'U  Vallev,  a  hill  13.32G  feet  al)ove  the  sea.  and 
separated  from  the  glaciers  by  a  depression  containing  a  littlt^ 
lake.  In  the  seipiel,  we  shall  hear  of  the  excursit)n  made  liy 
Sella  on  the  glaciers  of  the  western  slojje,  descending  from  the 
col  in  tiie  centre  of  Mt.  Stanley  between  Moebins  Peak  and 
Alexandra  Peak.      In  the  cour.se  of  this  exciu-sion  he  was  able 

206 


Fonnation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 


iii'ii. 


to  take  several  photographs  from  the  western  slopes,  \v\ 
wlieu  compared  with  this  plate  of  Stuhlinaiui's  l)ook,  lea\c  no 
doul)t  as  to  its  I'epresenting  the  western  slopes  of  Mt.  Stanley. 
It  shows,  proceeding  from  left  to  right,  the  long  snowy  ridoe  which 
forms  the  characteristic  north-western  slioulder  of  Margherita 
Peak,  winch  is  hidden  behind  tlie  vast  cone  of  Alexandra 
Peak.      Vertically   below    the    lidge   to   the    riiiiit   of  Alexandra 


WESTERN    sn)E   OF   ALEXANDKA    I'KAK. 

Peak,  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier,  may  l)e  seen  a  sharji,  rocky 
]K)int,  which  was  climbed  by  Sella  in  tlie  course  of  his 
photographic  expedition.     Alexandra  Peak  is  succeeded  in  this 

207 


Chapter  VII. 

])late  by  Moebiiis  Peak,  then  Elena  Peak  and  Su\oia  Peak,  with 
the  little  tooth  of  rock  l)etweeii  them,  which  is  also  clearly 
visible    tVoiii   the  east. 

With  relation  to  tlie  point  reached  by  Stuhhnann,  and  from 
whieh  this  })liotoi;-raph  was  taken,  Brix  Forstei\  in  an  article* 
in  which  he  attempts  to  collate  the  preceding  explorations  of 
Kuwenzori  with  that  of  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi,  is  of  opinion 
that  this  point  was  near  the  little  lakes  to  the  west  of  Mt.  Baker, 
in  siyiit  of  the  vallev  traversed  by  the  Italian  expedition  to 
climl)  to  Scott  Elliot's  (Jol.      A  mere  glance  at  tlie  map  makes  it 


MOEBIUS    I'EAK    FliOJI    TIU':    WEST. 


quite  })lain  that  it  was  impossible  that  from  anv  point  situated 
so  far  to  the  south  of  Mt.  Stardey  the  jjeaks  should  appear 
as  they  do  in  Stuhlmann's  photograph.  (Jn  the  other  hand, 
it  is  pi'obable  that  the  little  lake  Kige.s.si-Kis.songo,  which 
Stuhlmann  saw  between  himself  and  the  mountains  was  one 
of  those  drawn  in  the  map  to  the  west  of  Mt.  Stanley  under 
*  See  in  "(Jlobus,"  Vol.  XCI,  1907,  p.  34.5. 
208 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Kuwenzori. 

Point  Moebius.  In  feet,  looking  from  this  point  towunis  tin- 
chain,  Alexandra  Peak  must  have  nearly  enthelv  covered 
Margherita  Peak,  while  the  Moebius,  Elena  and  iSavoia  Peaks 
must  have  been  visible  nearly  straight  in  front,  as  they  are 
shown  in  the  plate.  Brlx  Ftirsters  article  contains  other 
inaccuracies.  From  the  upper  valley  of  Butagu,  Stuhlmann 
saw  no  other  mountains  beyond  the  two  photographed  liv  him, 
nor  is  there  any  mention  in  his  l)i)ok  of  a  third  mountain  lirvond. 
of  whicli  lie  had  cauglit   any  glimpse  in  tlie  ()|»euing  between 


THE   FOOT   OF   THE   GI-AITERS   FEOWIXG   WEST  OF   ALEXANDK.A.   AXD 
MOEBIUS    PEAKS. 


the  two.  The  interpretation  of  Moore's  ascent  is  entirely 
erroneous,  nor  did  Moore  see  from  tlie  ridge  the  other  momitain 
groups,  as  the  author  states.  The  \alley  ascended  by  David 
could  not  be  the  Russurubi,  for  the  Russurubi  does  not  lead  to 
any  col  near  16,000  feet.  Finally,  Brix  For.ster  is  mistaken 
in  wi'itiug  that  Dr.  WoUaston  ascended  the  Semper  Peak  of 
Mt.  Baker.  He  also  states  in  his  article  that  the  highest 
peaks  of  Ruwenzori  are  rocky. 

209  p 


Chapter  VII. 

We  aie  able  also  to  reproduce  Stuhlmanu's  ])hotogTaph 
from  the  same  point  of  another  moinitain  which  he  believed 
to  be  adjacent  to,  and  to  the  south  of  Mt.  Stanley,  the 
mountain  which  he  had  called  Weismann  and  which,  as  we 
have     seen,     corresponds    to     Mt.     Baker.        In    reality,     this 


MOUNT    LUIGI    DI    SAVOIA   SEEN    FROJI    THE   UPPER   BUTAGU   VALLEY. 
(After  Ihc jihotoijritphfii/  Dr.  F.  Sh'hljiititiii.) 

mountain  was  completely  hidden  fn)m  his  sight  by  the  southern 
spurs  of  Mt.  Stanley,  and  the  mountain  in  his  plate  must  be 
the  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia,  the  very  same  which  he  had  called 
Moebius. 

The  first  description  of  the  appearance  of  the  mountains 
from  the  east  is  given  by  Moore,  who  seems  to  have  been  the 
only  one  before  H.R.H.  to  have  seen  the  mountains  from  the 
Wimi  Valley.  Moore  had,  however,  a  far  better  opportimity 
for  obsei'vation  because,  being  obliged  to  descend  towards  the 

L'lO 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 

plain,  and  to  go  further  from  tlie  moimtains  to  seek  for  a  ford 
across  the  River  Wimi,  which  was  swdllfii.  he  was  able  to 
see  the  entire  chain,  not  only  the  single  mountains.  This 
view  is  reproduced  in  a  plate  in  colours  placed  opposite 
the  frontispiece  of  his  book.*  This  plate  contains  in  the 
middle,  and  plainly  recognizable,  Mt.  Stanley  and  Mt.  Speke. 
To  their  left  stretches  a  snowy  ridge  of  tmcertain  outline  and 
long  enough  to  comprise  the  peaks  of  Mt.  Baker  and  those  of 
Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia.  To  the  right,  separated  from  Mt.  Speke 
by  a  wide  interval,   is  another  sno'.v  peak,  Mt.   Gessi. 

On  reaching  the  Moljuku  Vallev  and  ascendinjr  it  as  far  as 


SAVOIA   PEAK    TAKEN    EKOII    AI.E.XANDUA    I'EAK  :    MT.    I.IIGI    DI    SAVOIA 
IN    THE    lUCKGKorND. 


Bujougolo,  where  he  established  his  first  camp,  Moore  fell  into 
an  error,  which  was  subsequently  shared  Ijy  all  liis  successors 
from  Sir  Harry  John.ston  to  Dr.  Wollaston,  and  which  became 
the  chief  cause  of  the  uncertainty  which  reigned  u|)  to  the 
Duke's  exploration  as  to  the  position  of  the  peaks.  This  error 
*  J.  E.  S.  Moore,  "To  the  Moimtains  of  the  Moon,"  Lon<l(iii,  1901. 

L'  11  p  2 


Chapter  VII. 

consisted  in  liis  helief  tliat  at  this  point  in  the  Mohukn  Valley 
he  was  in  the  midst  of  the  highest  mountains  of  the  chain 
which  he  had  ah-eady  seen  from  the  plain  at  the  foot  of  tlie 
Wimi  Valley,  and  he  still  further  increased  the  confusion  by 
attempting  to  identify  them  with  those  described  and  identified 
by  Stuhlmami  from  the  western  slope. 

It  is  not  easy  to  make  out  Moore's  ascent.  Upon  an 
attentive  perusal  of  his  narrative,  collated  with  H.R.H.'s 
map,  the  reader  is  led  to  suppose  that  on  reaching  the  head 
of  the  Mobuku  Valley  he  started  to  ascend  to  the  left  (that  is 
to  say,  on  the  right  slope  of  the  valley)  until  he  reached  the 
glacier  which  he  calls  the  central  glacier,  in  other  words  the 
Baker's  Glacier  of  H.R.H.'s  map,*  by  which  glacier  he  would 
reach  the  ridge  at  u  point  between  Semper  Peak  and  Grauer's 
Rock.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  however,  in  order  to  reach  the 
Baker  Glacier  from  the  valley  it  would  be  necessary  to  climl) 
rocks  and  gullies  presenting  such  exceptional  difficulties  as  to 
be  surmountable  only  by  a  party  of  trained  mountaineers — 
certainlv  not  by  a  single  white  man  accompanied  by  native 
porters.  It  is  more  probable  that  Moore  began  to  climb  the 
right  slope  of  the  valley  at  an  earlier  point.  In  this  way 
he  would  have  reached  the  Edward  Glacier  and  ascended  it  to 
the  southern  ridge  of  the  Edward  Peak. 

Sir  Harry  Johnston  attempted  to  reconstruct  the  chain  as 
seen  from  a  hypothetical  point  to  its  east,  basing  his  conception 
upon  the  observations  taken  by  preceding  explorers.  The 
representation  thus  obtained  by  him  is  much  further  from 
the  truth  than   that   of  Stuhlmann   and  of  Moore.     From   the 

*  The  glacier  is  clearly  shown  in  one  of  Moore's  illustrations  (p.  246),  and 
also  in  a  plate  of  Sir  Harry  Johnston's,  "  The  Uganda  Protectorate,"  2nd  Ed., 
London,  1904,  Vol.  I,  p.  178. 

212 


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Formation  and  General  Features  of  Jtuwenzori. 

Lower  Mobuku  Valley  he  saw  a  great  snowy  mountain  which 
he  named  Duwoni.  He  gives  a  fine  illustration  of  this  moun- 
tain on  p.  158  of  his  book.  There  is  no  doubt  that  this 
is  to  be  identified  with  Mt.  Speke.  On  reacliing  Bujongolo 
he  believed  himself  to  have  reached  the  foot  of  tliis  same 
Duwoni,  Avhereas  in  reality  he  had  been  going  fmther  from 
it  from  Nakitawa  (juward.  He  furthermore  believed  that 
Mt.  Kiyanja  (Baker)  was  Mt.  Semper  of  Stuhlmaini,  and  that 
Duwoni  (Speke)  was  Peak  Weismann. 

Mr.  Freshfield,  as  well  as  the  Duke,  was  able  to  have  a 
complete  view  of  the  range  from  Butiti,  on  the  way  between 
Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal.  He  enumerates  '"'  the  mountains  of 
Ruwenzori  as  follows,  from  left  to  right  : — 1st,  a  massive  rocky 
group  with  patches  of  snow,  which  he  calls  South  Peak,  and 
which  is  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  ;  2nd,  a  wide  col,  which  is  the 
col  above  the  Mobuku  Valley  whicli  now  bears  his  name  ;  3rd, 
a  bold  peak  of  rock  and  glacier,  the  Kiyanja  of  Johnston  ; 
4th,  the  undulating  ridge  covered  with  orjacier  which  from 
this  last  group  leads  to  the  highest  snow  peak,  and  wliicli 
Mr.  Freshfield  takes  to  be  the  Duwoni  of  Johnston,  but  wliich 
is  in  reality  Maigherita  Peak.  Duwoni  or  Speke,  as  a  matter 
of  fact,  does  not  appear  as  an  isolated  mountain  when  seen 
from  Butiti,  biit  seems  to  form  a  single  group  with  Mt.  Stanley. 
It  may  be  of  use  to  the  reader  at  this  point  to  compare 
Mr.  Freshfield's  description  with  the  outline  of  the  range  as 
seen  from  Butiti,  taken  from  Sella's  tele-photograph,  and  with 
the  addition  of  the  new  names.  On  reaching  the  head  of  the 
Mobuku  Valley,  Mr.  Freshfield  would  appear  to  have  fallen  into 
the   same   error   as   his    predecessors,    for   he   describes    it    as 

*  D.  W.  Freshfield,  'A  note  on  the  Ruwenzori  Group,'  "The  Geographical 
Journal,"  -May,  1906,  Vol.  XXVIl,  p.  481. 

215 


Chapter  VII. 

"  enclosed  in  a  circjue  of  cliflfe  capped  by  glaciers,  which  flow 
from  a  iidve  rising  in  comparatively  gentle  slopes  to  an  icy 
ridge  connecting  two  rock  peaks,  Kiyanja  and  Johnston's 
Duwoni."  * 

Mr.  Freshfield's  poor  opinion  of  the  glaciers  and  of  the 
general  importance  of  the  chain  is  a  natural  result  of  his  belief 
that  "  the  only  glacier  basin  of  any  size  east  of  the  chain  is  that 
of  Mobuku."t 

It  now  remains  for  us  to  consider  the  ascents  performed  by 
the  members  of  the  British  Museum  Expedition,  and  more 
especially  by  tlie  mountaineer,  A.  F.  WoUaston.  Lake  Bujuku 
seems  to  have  been  seen  for  the  first  time  by  Woosnam  in  the 
excursion  which  he  made  alone  to  the  ridge  overhanging  the 
Mobuku  Glacier.  Mr.  Woosnam,  as  well  as  Mr.  Wollaston, 
believed,  however,  with  Dr.  Grauer,  that  this  was  the  water- 
shed. Hence  Mr.  Wollaston  naturally  concluded  tliat  the 
mountains  which  he  had  caught  a  glimpse  of  beyond  it, 
Mt.  Stanley  and  Mt.  Speke,  were  on  the  western  slopes 
of  the  chain.  It  was  only  later,  after  meeting  H.R.H.  at 
Fort  Portal,  that  Mr.  Wollaston,  while  crossing  the  foot  of  the 
Mobuku  Valley,  and  seeing  the  outline  of  the  peaks  to  the 
west,  finally  understood  that  their  eastern  slopes  do  i-eally 
form  part  of  the  Uganda  side  of  the  I'ange. 

I  must  here  mention  the  interesting  article  of  Lieutenant 
T.  T.  Behrens.J  who  has  attempted  to  reconstruct  the  chain  of 
Ruwenzori  witli  the  whole  illustrative  and  descriptive  material 
from  Stanley  to  Wollaston  which  existed  in  July,  1906, 
including   the   observations   taken   by   the   author   during   nine 

*  D.  W.  Freshfield,  in  "Alpine  Journal,"  August,  1906,  p.  183. 
t  D.  W.  Freshfield,  in  "Alpine  Journal,"  August,  1906,  p.  201. 
I  Lieutenant    T.  T.  Behrens,    '  The  Snow   Peaks    of    Kuwenzori,'   "  The 
Geographical  Journal,"  July,  1906,  Vol.  XXVIll,  p.  43. 

216 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 

months  of  residence  in  the  regions  close  to  the  cliain  during  the 
work  of  the  Anglo-German  Boundary  Commission.  Behren's 
article  contains  in  clear  and  succinct  shape  the  net  result  of  all 
that  Avas  known  ahout  Ruwenzori  previous  to  the  Italian 
Expedition. 

The  following  table,  in  wliich  the  names  given  to  the 
mountains  by  different  travellers  are  placed  in  order  Avith 
reference  to  those  marked  upon  the  Italian  map,  illustrates  the 
confusion  whicli  liad  arisen  from  mistaken  identification  of  peaks 
from  various  points  of  observation.  This  table  will  make  it 
easier  to  compare  the  accounts  of  all  the  previous  journeys.  It 
will  also  show  that  the  only  way  to  put  order  and  clearness 
into  the  nomeuclatm-e  was  to  give  up  the  old  names  and  start 
afresh  with  a  different  plan. 

As  regards  the  altitude  of  the  highest  point  as  determined 
by  the  Duke  at  16,815  feet,  it  would  be  idle  now  to  gather 
together  the  opinions  of  preceding  explorers  Avhich  were  not 
based  upon  any  instrumental  observation  ;  all  the  more  so  that 
only  one  of  them,  Stuhlmann,  really  had  a  near  sight  of  the 
highest  peaks,  or  at  least  of  Alexandra  Peak.  The  others 
all  judged  of  the  height  of  the  peaks  around  the  head  of  the 
Mobuku  Valley,  and  never  even  saw  the  highest  ones,  or 
only  from  the  far-oft'  plains  of  the  surrounding  country. 

The  Duke  took  for  the  first  base  of  his  calculations  the 
meteorological  station  of  Entebbe,  whose  heiglit  was  already 
known  (3,861  feet).  Fort  Portal  was  then  connected  with 
Entebbe  by  a  series  of  observations  caiiied  out  for  two  A\-liole 
months  at  the  two  stations,  and  giving  as  a  result  for  Fort  Portal 
an  altitude  of  1,165  feet  above  Entebbe,  or  5,026  feet  above  the 
sea-level.  Finally,  Bujongolo  was  connected  with  Fort  Portal 
by  barometrical  observations  taken  during  a  period  of  about  a 

■211 


Chapter  MI. 


Thk  Nomenclature  of  Kuwenzori  and  the 


H.R.H.   the    Duke    of 
the  Abiuzzi. 


F.  Stuhhiiaiin. 


J.  E.  S.  Moore. 


Mt.  Lui"i  di  Savoia. 


From  Lungwe         From  the  From  the  From 

(Seuiliki).         Butagu  Valley. '  Eastern  Plain.        Bujongolo. 


Moebius. 


Weismann  or 
Nffemwimbi. 


f  Edward  and  Sem- 
I      per  Peaks. 


I  Weismann  or 
^  Ngemwimbi. 


Ingomwimbi. 


Moebius. 


Wollastou  and 

Moore  Peaks. 


Kanyan- 

gogwe. 


f  Savoia   and   Elena 
Peaks. 


m  1 


^    I  Alexandra         and 
L  Marsrherita  Peaks 


Semper 

or  Kanjan- 

gungwe. 


Mt.  Speke. 


Semper 

or  Kanjan- 

gungwe. 


Ingomwimlii. 


Kangan- 
gogwe. 


Mt.  Emiu. 


Kraepelin. 


Mt.  Gessi. 


Saddle  Moun- 
tain (of 
Stanley). 


218 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ruwenzori. 


Errors  in  the  Identification  of  the  Peaks. 


Sir  Harry  Jolinston. 


Figurative 
Scheme. 


From  tlie 
Moljuku  Valley. 


D.  W.  Freshtifkl. 


From  Butiti. 


From  Biijongolo. 


A.  F.  Wollaston. 


from  Bujongolo. 


South  Peak. 


Kiyanja. 


! 

f-     Kivanja. 

I 


Kiyanja. 


Duwoni 
(from  Bujongolo). 


Duwoui. 


Kiyanja 
1"   (Semper  of 
I     StHhluiann). 


Duwoni 

(Semper  of 
Stuhlmaun). 


Kiyanja. 


I)u\voni, 


Duwoni 
(Weismann  of 
Stuhlmann). 


Duwoni 

(from  the  lower 

valley). 


Saddle  Mt.  (?) 


219 


Chapter  VII. 


month,  from  the  16th  of  June  to  the  12th  of  July.  In  this  way 
the  altitude  of  Bujongolo  was  established  at  7,435  feet  above 
Fort  Portal,  consequently  12,461  feet  above  the  sea-level.  The 
observations  taken  in  the  valleys  and  on  the  peaks  with  the 
inercurial  barometer,  or  in  places  of  secondary  importance  with 
the  aneroid,  were  then  referred  to  this  base.  A  third  base 
of  less  value,  because  the  observations  there  were  not  taken 
during  so  long  a  period  as  at  Bujongolo,  is  Ibanda  in  the  Lower 
Mobuku  Valley.  t)nly  one  of  the  measurements  of  altitude 
refers  to  this  as  its  base  point,  namely,  that  of  the  lolanda 
Peak  of  Mt.  Gessi,  which  was  also  taken  with  the  lioiling- 
point  thermometer  because  the  barometer  was  broken. 

To  estimate  the  approximation  to  the  actual  truth,  which 
may  be  attained  by  measuring  heights  merely  by  direct  obser- 
vation of  atmospheric  pressiu-e,  by  means  of  the  boiling  point 
of  water  (hypsometer),  or  Ijy  the  aneroid  barometer,  it  will 
suffice  to  compare  some  results  obtained  by  this  simple  method 
with  the  corresponding  measurements  as  taken  by  the  Duke 
and  calculated  with  all  the  corrections  fvn-nished  by  a  base 
station. 


Locality. 

Grauer,  Teg 

art,  and  Maddox. 

Wollaston. 

H.R.H. 

Observations  referred 

to  a  base  station. 

Hypsometer. 

Aneroid. 

Hypsometer. 

Mercurial  Bar. 

Fort  Portal 

5,200 

— 

— 

5,027 

Bihunga  ... 

6,978 

6,700 

— 

6,300 

Kichuchu 

9,869 

9,600 

— 

9,833 

Bujongolo 

12,481 

12,300-12,500 

12,660 

12,461 

Camp  Grauer 

13,303 

1.3,100 

— 

13,229 

Grauer  Rock 

14,9.56 

19,030 

— 

14,813 

Wollaston  I'eak  . . . 

— 

— 

15,893 

15,286 

220 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Euwenzoii. 

By  far  the  most  interesting  altimetric  observations  are 
tlmse  which  were  taken  by  Lieutenant  T.  T.  Belirens  in  1903 
during  the  Anglo-German  frontier  delimitation.  He  then  fixed 
trigonometrically  the  height  of  the  two  peaks  which  appeared 
to  be  the  highest,  as  well  as  of  four  other  points.  It  was, 
however,  only  after  tlie  publication  of  the  Italian  map  that  he 
was  able  to  identify  witli  certainty  the  position  of  these  peaks, 
and  hence  to  obtain  all  the  data  for  an  exact  calculation  of 
the  altitudes  on  the  basis  of  the  angles  taken.  It  is  worth 
while  to  compare  his  results  with  those  of  H.Ii.H. 


Height  in  Feet  above  the  Level  of  the  Sea. 

Ifamo  of  Peak. 

Lieut.  T.  T.  Behrens. 
Trigonoiuetric  Value. 

H.R.H. 

Barometric  Value. 

Difference, 

Trigonometric 

minus  Barometric. 

Margherita 

Feet. 
16,619 

Feet. 
16,815 

-196 

Alexandra 

16,5-i.-5 

16,7-49 

-206 

Edward            

15,74S 

15,988 

-240 

Vittorio  Emaiiuele 

15,846 

16,080 

-234 

Umberto          

1.5,554 

15,798 

-244 

lolanda 

15,258 

15,647 

-389 

This  is  not  the  place  to  discuss  the  relative  value  of  the 
two  series  of  numbers.  In  Appendix  B,  Prof  Omodei  gives 
in  extenso  all  the  data  of  H.R.H.'s  observations,  and  a  critical 
expose  of  the  methods  adopted,  and  of  the  precautions  taken 
in  calculatinp'  the  altitudes. 

Dr.  A.  Roccati  has  written  a  detailed  account  of  the  geology 
and  mineralogv  of  Ruwenzori,  which  is  published  in  the  volume 


221 


Chapter  VII. 

coutaining  the  work  done  by  the  Italian  expedition  in  diftprent 
branches  of  natural  science.* 

Like   Stuhhnann   and    Scott    Elliot,  he   absolutely  excludes 
all    possibility  of  a  volcanic    origin    for    the   chain.      There    is 


SENECIO   AND   HELICHRYSUM    IX    THE    UPl'ER    liUT.A.(iU    VAl.I.EY. 

only  one  circumscribed  point  of  the  whole  region  explored, 
namely,  the  rock  wall  which  forms  the  shelter  of  Kichuchu, 
where  a  formation  of  a  volcanic  nature  exists,  consisting  of 
veins  of  basalt  enclosed  in  a  wall  of  gneiss. 

The  inclination  of  strata  is  often  very  marked,  reaching  at 
times  an   angle   of  over  60°,  and  is,  as  a  rule,  tiu-ned  eastward 

*Appendix  D  contains  a  short  resume  by  Dr.  Eoccati  of  the  geology  of  the 


922 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Runenzori. 

and  south-eastward  on  the  eastern  part  of  the  chain,  southward 
on  the  southern  part,  and  south-westward  on  the  western  part 
so  as  to  form  a  tectonic  semi-elhpse. 

Resuming  in  its  main  oTithnes  the  origin  t)f  tlie  group  of 
mountains  and  of  the  high  peaks  of  its  central  portion,  we 
may  ascribe  it  to  three  causes,  geotectonic,  stratigraphic  and 
lithologic,  namely  : — ■ 

1.  The  upheaval  en  hloc  of  a  whole  portion  of  the 
archaean  rocks  of  Central  Africa  with  a  main  slope  for  the 
rise  from  west  to  east.  This  rise  is  mainly  In  relation  to 
the  gigantic  western  fracture,  with  its  relative  vertical 
displacements,  which  originated  the  Semliki  Valley,  and  also 
with  otlier  fractures  which  have  taken  place  to  the  east  of 
the  group,  and  which  are  marked  by  a  series  of  recent 
volcanoes  like  those  of  the  Province  of  the  Toro  District. 

2.  To  a  marked  elevation — ellipsoid  or  anticlinal,  with 
general  direction  from  north  to  south,  and  strata  more  or  less 
considerably  uplifted  in  the  Ruwenzori  group. 

3.  To  the  existence  in  tlie  central  region  of  a  group  of  rocks 
which  have  resisted  tlie  physico-chemical  action  of  external 
agents  (amphibolite,  diorite,  diabasis,  amphibolic  gneiss), 
whereas  the  gneiss-rocks  and  mica-schists  of  the  lower  zone 
oppose  far  less  resistance  to  such   agents. 

To  these  main  causes  we  may  add  the  probable  existence  of 
internal  fractures  in  the  group,  with  a  main  direction  from 
north  to  south,  which  would  have  contributed  to  the  isolation 
of  the  several  groups.  An  important  geological  feature  of 
Ruwenzori  is  the  vast  development  of  the  glaciers  diu-ing  the 
glacial  period.  The  proofs  of  this  are  manifest,  especially  at 
Nakitawa.  At  one  time  the  valleys  of  the  Mahoma,  of  the 
Mobuku    and   of  tlie    Bujuku    were    tilled    with    large    glaciers 


Chapter  VII. 

which  met  below  Nakltawa  and  flowed  down  to  a  point  beyond 
Bihunga.  In  this  way  also,  on  the  western  slope,  the  Savoia, 
Elena  and  Semper  Glaciers  must  have  entered  into  the  hollow 
formed  between  the  groups  Stanley,  Baker  and  Luigi  di  Savoia, 


LOBELIA    DECKEM,    HE.NECIO   AND   TUEE-HEATHS. 


and  probably  joined  the  Edward  Glacier.  It  is  not  possible 
to  state  exactly  down  to  what  point  tlie  glaciers  liad  reached  in 
that  direction,  as  the  valleys  to  tlie  west  of  the  chain  were 
not  explored. 


22-t 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  liuwenzori. 

To-day  the  glaciers  are  of  small  extent  and  diminishing. 
This  is  proved  at  some  points  by  the  presence  of  moraines 
recently  abandoned  only  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  actual 
glacier  snout,  and  from  the  freshness  of  the  marks  of  polishing 
by  ice  on  the  rocks  close  to  nearly  all  the  glaciers.  Tliere 
are  no  glaciers  of  the  first  degree  in  tlie  principal  valleys,  but 
only  secondary  glaciers  in  tlie  upper  part  of  the  moimtains 
and  in  the  main  gorges,  not,  however,  in  the  nature  of  mere 
hanging  glaciers,  but  true  glaciers.  Unlike  our  own  Alps, 
there  are  no  real  basins,  Ijut  merely  a  sort  of  glacier  caps  from 
which  ice  digitations  flow  down  at  divers  points.  In  other 
words,  we  have  on  the  higher  groups  of  Ruwenzori  glacier 
formations  which  remind  us  of  the  Scandinavian  tvpe  and 
which  liave  been   called   tropical  glaciers. 

The  Moore  and  Semper  Glaciers  flow  fin-ther  down  than 
any — the  former  as  low  as  13,690  feet,  and  the  latter  as  far 
as  14,000  feet.  The  largest  glaciers  are  on  tlie  Stanley,  Speke 
and  Baker  groups,  and  on  the  eastern  sides  of  the  Gessi  group. 
The  smaller  ones  are  upon  the  Emin  and  tlie  Lnigi  di  Savoia 
groups,  unless  these  latter  have  important  glaciers  to  the  north 
of  the  one  and  the  south  of  the  otlier  ^\■here  thev  were  not 
explored  by  the  expedition. 

A  characteristic  feature  of  the  high  ridges,  and  more 
especially  of  the  snowy  ridges  around  Alexandra  and  Margherita 
Peaks,  are  the  enormous  cornices,  wliich  from  a  distance 
appear  to  be  inaccessible,  and  have  a  totally  diflerent  appear- 
ance to  those  of  the  Alps  and  of  the  Caucasus.  Rapid  and 
frequent  changes  in  temperatin-e,  falling  from  se\-eral  degrees 
above  to  several  degrees  below  the  freezing  point,  create  an 
incessant  alternation  of  frost  and  thaw,  and  give  rise  to  the 
formation   of   an   innuense    number  of   stalactites    imder    these 

22.5  Q 


Chapter  VII. 

coi-iiices,  \vhieh  are  so  intricate  and  so  situated  in  relation  to 
ouB  another  as  to  form  a  real  scaffolding  to  support  the  ice- 
dome,  which  is  usually  of  a  spongv  consistency  and  (piite  light. 


LOBELIA    L\    FLOWER. 

Thus  on  Ruwenzori  the  coi-nices  are  far  more  solid  and  safe  than 
in  the  Alps,  and,  in  spite  of  tlieir  numlier  and  extent,  there  ^vas 
no  yisible  sign  of  a  recent  collapse  at  any  point. 

22G 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  liuwcnzoi-i. 

The  snow-limit  may  be  calculated  as  between  14,7()(t  and 
14,800  feet;  in  other  words,  at  about  the  same  level  whieh 
is  reached  by  the  lower  extremity  of  most  glaciers.  Towards 
14,000  feet  the  rain  always  turns  into  snow. 

There  is  not,  perhaps,  an  ab.solute  predominance  of  any  one 
wind  throughout  the  chain.  It  is,  at  least,  quite  certain  that 
fog,  snow,  and  hail  are  extremely  frecjuent  and  common  to  all 
the  winds,  so  tluit  all  forecasts  are  vain.  Fine  and  bad  weather 
may  alternate  several  times  in  a  few  hours,  and  in  so  ca))iicious 
a  maimer  as  not  to  appear  subject  to  anv  law.  Only  in  the 
early  morning  hours  there  .seems  to  be  a  somewhat  greater 
2-)robability  of  a  clear  sky. 

The  bad  weather  is  frequently  violent,  and  accompanied  bv 
strong  wind,  lightning  and  thunder,  even  in  the  highest 
regions.  J^ear  Alexandra  Peak  and  on  Edward  and  Sella 
Peaks  the  rocks  bear  witness  to  the  violence  of  the.se  storms 
bv  the  innumerable  fultjurites  with  which  thev  are  riddled. 
No  conclusions  as  to  the  best  season  for  visitin"-  Kuwenzori 
can  be  drawn  from  the  experiences  of  tlie  Italian  expedition. 
During  June  liad  weather  certainly  predominated.  The  longest 
dry  spell  was  in  the  .second  week  of  .Tulv.  After  this  period 
the  expedition  began  to  withdraw  froni  the  higher  valleys  and 
peaks,  to  which  the  rains  and  fogs  seem  to  he  .strictlv  limited. 
Indeed,  on  their  return  to  Fort  Portal  they  le;irned  from  the 
resident  missionaries  that  during  those  two  months  no  rain 
had  fallen  there. 

The  valleys  of  Ruwenzori  are  often  divided  into  natural 
terraces  produced  by  the  formation  of  layers  of  strata  above 
the  ridges  of  hard  rock,  which  at  an  earlier  period  dammed  uj) 
these  valleys  in  places,  thus  creating  lake  basins  which  liave 
sub.sequently    silted    up    with    alluvial    deposit,    of    which     the 

227  y  2 


Chapter  VII. 

present   marshy   levels   are    the    result.       Lake    Biijuku    is    a 
survival  of  one  of  these  ancient  basins. 

In  the  Mobuku  and  Bujuku  Valleys  towards    10,000  feet 
the  damp  and  mild  climate  specially  favours  the  development  of 


SEXECIO   AND    LOBELIA   STUHLMAX.NL 


lycopodium,  mosses,  and  lichens  which  clothe  the  sides  and 
bottoms  of  the  valleys,  and  cover  the  trunks  of  the  living 
trees  or  of  those  that  have  flillen  from  old  age.  At  this 
height  the  valleys  are  clad  with  a  dense  forest  of  heaths  and 


228 


IX   THE   SEN  EC  10  FOREST 


Formation  and  General  Features  of  Ttuwenzori. 

of  bamboos,  with  brambles,  orchids  and  ferns,  in  whose  shade 
grow  violets,  ranunculi,  yenuiium,  epilobium,  tliistles,  and 
umbelliferous  plants. 

Towards  11,500  feet  a  certain  number  of  the  aromatic 
plants,  which  had  formed  a  large  part  of  the  underwood,  cease, 
and  among  the  trees  only  the  heaths,  lobelias,  and  senecios 
remain,  while  the  ferns  become  prominent,  and  the  lycopodium, 
mosses,  and  lichens  develop  to  an  inordinate  degree.  This 
development  reaches  its  maximum  at  about  12,500  feet,  a  little 
before  the  point  where  the  heaths  stop  altogether,  beyond 
which  remain  only  senecios,  lobelia,  reeds,  mosses,  and  lichens. 

Here  the  helichrysum,  or  everlasting  flower,  which  had 
already  been  noticed  at  about  11,500  feet,  forms  dense  thickets, 
which  reach  up  to  the  glaciers  together  with  the  senecios,  and 
is  the  last  form  of  shrubby  vegetation.  Among  the  numerous 
specimens  of  helichrysum  and  senecio  brought  home  by  the 
expedition,  there  were  several  new  species.  Mention  should  be 
made  hei'e  of  a  fine  and  rare  tree  found  at  Bujongolo,  belonging 
to  the  family  Ericaceae,  and  the  genus  Philippia. 

On  the  peaks  are  seen  mosses,  lichens,  a  few  rare  graminacese 
and  a  few  dwarf  phanerogams  which  remind  one  of  the 
characteristic  vegetation  of  our  own  Alps.  At  and  above 
16,000  feet  the  rocks  are  bare. 

The  expedition  had  not  proposed  to  itself  the  task  of 
making  special  and  minute  researches  regarding  tlie  fauna  of 
the  region.  So  far,  however,  as  was  possible,  in  spite  of  the 
rapidity  of  the  marches  and  tlie  unfavourable  circumstances,  as 
many  animal  specimens  as  possible  were  collected,  and  to  these 
were  added  large  collections  made  for  the  expedition  by  the 
Catholic  missionaries. 

As  they  ascended  the  Mobuku  Valley  the  faiuia  became  less 

229 


Chapter  VII. 

and  less  aliundant,  wliile  al)t)ve  Bujongolo  iiothiiii;'  was  found 
except  leopards,  rats,  bats,  a  few  crows,  hawks,  hirds  of  the 
sparrow  family,  insects  and  worms.  Upon  the  peaks  were 
foimd  worms,  neuroptera  and  diptera. 

The  botanical  and  zoological  collections  offered  abundant 
material,  comprising  many  species  Avhich  Avere  either  new  or 
interesting  from  other  points  of  view,  and  which  have  been 
amply  described  and  illustrated  in  the  volume  of  special  studies 
upon  Ruwenzori. 

We  have  now  glanced  cursorily  at  the  principal  results  of 
the  Italian  expedition — results  implying  sustained  effort,  owing 
to  the  extreme  shortness  of  their  sojourn  in  tlie  mountains. 
Having  thus  briefly  reviewed  the  chief  features  of  the  region, 
we  may  once  more  take  up  oiu'  narrative. 


ii30 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
Exploration  of  Mt.  Speke  and  Mt.  Emin. 

The  Descent  into  the  Bujuku  Valley — Stuhlmann's  Col — Western  Slopes  of 
-Mt.  Speke— Ascent  of  Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak — Storm  and  P^lectrical 
Phenomena  upon  the  Peak — Two  Days'  Bad  Weather — Glacier  Torrents  of 
Kuwenzori — The  Duke  reaseends  Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak — Crossing  the 
Western  Valleys — Camp  at  the  Foot  of  Mt.  P>nin — Ascent  of  Umlierto  Peak 
— Return  to  Bujongolo — Thi-ee  Days'  Marcli  through  the  liain — licLapitulatiuii 
of  the  woik  done. 


We  left  off  the  iiaiTiitive  at 
the  point  when  the  expedition 
liad  assembled  in  (Jamp  IV, 
above  Scott  Elliot  Col,  near  the 
Elena  Glacier  of  Mt.  Stanley, 
on  the  I'lst  of  June. 

On  the  followino;  morninir, 
June  22nd,  the  Duke  once  more 
prepared  to  leave  his  companions 
and  jiursne  the  exploration  of 
the  eliain,  directing  his  steps 
towards  tlie  northern  groups. 
Some  days  before,  from  the  summit  of  Alexandra  Peak, 
he  bad  been  able  to  ascertain  that  the  most  convenient 
and  the  shortest  route  to  Mt  Speke  and  Mt.  Emin  lay 
along  their  western  slopes,  which  could  be  easily  reached 
by  crcssing  the    Up}>er  Bujuku    Vallev    and    Stuhlmaim's    Col, 

•23i 


Chapter  Vlll. 


CAMl'  IV,  CLOSE  TO  THE  ELENA  GLACIER. 


which  Hes  between  Mt.  Speke  and  Mt.  Stanley.  The  Duke 
was  accompanied  by  the  guides  Joseph  and  Laui"ent  Petigax, 
<  )lHer  and  five  Bakonjo  porters. 

The  northern  wall  of  the  Scott  Elliot  Col,  as  has  already 
been  stated,  forms  a  precipice  overhanging  Lake  Bujnku. 
After  a  short  descent  between  great  blocks  of  I'ock  covered 
with  the  visual  mosses  and  lichens,  the  party  entered  a 
narrow  gorge  and  then  a  nearly  perpendicular  gully  full  of 
detritus.  The  loaded  natives,  little  used  to  the  precautions 
which  are  necessary  under  these  circumstances,  trod  carelessly 
upon  the  stones  and  set  them  rolling,  to  the  serious  risk  of 
those  who  were  ahead.  It  was  necessary  to  descend  slowly, 
with  great  caution,  and  quite  close  together. 

The  natives  had    by  this  time    accjuired  somewhat    greater 

•232 


Exploration  of  ]\Il.  Speke  and  ]\It.  Emin. 

confidence  in  tlieir  leaders,  and  followed  them  with  a  better 
will.  The  guides  helped  them  at  all  the  difficult  points  and 
the  caravan  was  once  more  in  good  spirits.  At  the  foot 
of  this  gully  they  again  entered  the  senecio  forest,  through 
which  they  descended  by  a  gentler  slope  obliquely  towards 
the  bottom  of  the  valley,  where  they  found  a  treeless,  marshy 
tract  (12,904  feet).  This  they  reached  after  two  and  a-half 
hours'  march,  crossing  the  torrent  above  Lake  Bujuku.  The 
usual  obstinate  fog  enveloped  the  \vhole  valley. 

From  this  point  they  began  to  ascend  by  a  moderate  slope 
directly  towards  the  southern  face  of  Mt.  Speke.  About 
300  feet  higher  up,  they  came  across  a  neve  formed  by 
avalanches  at  the  foot  of  the  rock  wall,  which  was  covered 
above  by  a  glacier  broken  up  into  s^racs,  and,  as  it  were, 
suspended  over  the  valley.  Skirting  round  the  neve  to  the 
left  they  continued  to  ascend,  directing  their  steps  to  a  point 
where  the  south-west  I'idge  of  Mt.  Speke  joins  Stuhlmann's 
■Col  to  the  north  of  a  rocky  spur  clearly  visible  in  the  middle 
of  the  col.  The  last  bit  of  way  at  the  foot  of  the  perpendicular 
cliff,  overhung  by  the  tei'minal  sdracs  of  the  glacier,  is  exposed 
to  the  dans^er  of  stones  falling  from  above.  The  ascent  is 
easy  but  fatiguing  on  account  of  tlie  slippery  rocks  covered 
with  moss. 

By  the  time  they  reached  the  watershed,  a  fine  warm  sun 
had  dissipated  the  fog,  and  they  stopped  for  a  while  to  enjoy 
the  fine  view  over  the  upper  amphitheatre  of  the  Bujuku 
Valley.  It  is  completely  surrounded  by  precipitous  cliffs. 
Only  vmder  Margherita  and  Alexandra  Peaks  the  gentler  slo})e 
allows  the  glacier  to  descend  to  a  lower  level,  but  all  the  rest 
of  the  circle  of  glaciers  stops  short  at  the  brow  of  the  cliffs. 
Now  and   then  the   roar  ot    the   avalanches  of  seracs   may  be 

233 


Chapter  VIII. 

heard  as  they  crash  down  into  the  valley.  The  rocky 
Inittresses  ol'  Elena  and  Savoia  Peaks,  and  the  precipitous 
clifis  of  the  north  face  of  Mount  Baker,  overtopped  towards 
the   east  by  Moore  and  Wollaston  Peaks,  are  especially  grand. 

After  skirting  the  foot  of  the  south-west  ridge  of  Mt.  Speke, 
they  pursued  their  way  nearly  on  a  level  under  the  western 
cliif,  keeping  high  and  not  far  from  the  glacier.  This  glacier 
lias  withdrawn  recently,  leaving  a  long  fringe  of  rocks  and 
moraine  detritus,  under  which  a  few  senecios  and  groujjs  of 
helichrysmn  have  taken  root. 

A  little  further  on,  the  tent  was  pitched  on  a  narrow 
strip  of  land  between  two  oval  lakes  and  the  margin  of  the 
Speke  Glacier.  This  is  Camp  V,  at  a  height  of  14,682  feet 
above  the  sea-level,  immediately  under  Vittorio  Emanuele 
Peak.  There  were  only  a  few  senecios  at  this  point,  and 
the  natives  sought  for  shelter  lower  down,  A\here  there  was 
abundance  of  wood.  The  sky  Avas  clear  overhead,  l)ut  round 
the  peaks  and  in  the  valleys  lingered  fogs,  which  hid  the 
greater  part  of  the  landscape.  A  little  fiu'ther  and  lower 
down  was  a  third  lake,  somewhat  larger  than  the  tAvo  which 
were  near  the  camp. 

On  the  next  day,  first  climbing  the  rocks  and  then  up  the 
glacier,  following  an  easy  western  ridge,  without  once  using  the 
rope,  in  a  little  more  than  an  hoiu'  they  reached  the  summit  of 
Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak,  16,080  feet  above  the  sea-level.  It  was 
6.30  in  the  morning  and  they  were  already  sunounded  by  dense 
fog.  They  I'emained  nearly  eight  liovu's  on  the  summit  in  vain 
expectation  of  an  opening  in  the  fog,  wliich  never  came.  There 
was  a  light,  variable  wind,  and  every  now  and  then  a  snowfall, 
changing  occasionally  into  bi^ief  and  violent  showers  of  hail. 
At  one  time  they  were  enveloped  in  a  cloud  so  charged  with 

234 


SEA'ECIO  FOREST  TO    THE    WEST  OF  FRESHFIELD  COL 
SAVOIA  PEAK  IX  THE  DISTAXCE 


Exploration  of  .Alt.  Speke  and  ]\It.  Eiiiin. 

electricity    that    tiny  discharges    began    to   crackle   iipon   their 
ice-axes,   their  tripofl,  and  their    barometer.       Even    tlieir   hair 


MI.    ^I'EKE   .sKEN    FllU.M   THE   .SENECIO   FuUEST   AT  THE   FOOT   OF 

SCOTT  Elliot's  col. 

crackled  upon  their  heads.     It  was  a  disagreeable  situation,  and 
by  no  means  without  danger. 

To  kill  time,  tliey  built  a  big  stone  man  on  a  point  of  rock 
to   the    north-west,    a    little    below    the    .snow    peak.       In    the 

235 


Chapter  MIL 

afternoon  they  went  down  to  the  camp,  as  the  weather  was 
getting  M'orse.  The  day  had  been  completely  wasted  as  far  as 
exploring  work  was  concerned. 

The  24th  and  the  25th  of  Jnne  were  spent  in  a  dense  fog, 
with  alternations  of  rain,  snow,  and  hail.  The  guides  set  out 
on  a  short  excursion  to  endeavour  to  find  the  way  to  Mt.  Emin 
across  the  valleys  which  run  down  to  the  north-west  of 
Mt.  Speke.  On  the  25th,  H.R.H.  attempted  to  proceed,  l)ut 
was  very  soon  forced  to  return,  the  fog  being  so  dense  that 
it  seemed  like  night. 

During  these  two  days  of  oljligatory  rest,  the  Duke  was 
able  to  observe  in  the  little  torrents  which  flow  down  from  the 
Speke  Glacier  the  periodic  oscillations  of  volume,  ranging  from 
a  minimum  in  the  morning  to  a  maximum  in  the  evening,  which 
are  characteristic  of  torrents  produced  by  the  melting  of  ice. 
There  would  be  no  reason  to  comment  upon  this  fact  were  it  not 
that  Mr.  Freshfield  was  led,  from  observation  of  the  small 
dimensions  of  the  Mobuku  torrent  where  it  springs  from  the 
glacier,  and  from  the  limpidity  of  its  waters,  to  conclude  that 
it  rather  originated  from  a  spring  mider  the  glacier  tlian  from 
actual  melting  of  the  ice. 

This  view  fits  in  with  Mr.  Freshfield's  general  theory  that 
tropical  glaciers  are  consumed  chiefly  by  evaporation,  and  in 
a  minor  degree  only  by  melting.  Whatever  may  be  the  con- 
ditions in  the  Himalayas,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  in  this 
respect  the  glaciers  of  Ruwenzori  resemble  those  of  our  own 
Alps,  and  that  thev  all  give  rise  to  torrents  flowing  from  their 
■extreme  end  with  all  the  characteristic  features  of  glacier 
torrents.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  climate  of  Ruwenzori  is  very 
little  tropical  in  its  nature,  and  it  ^\-ould  seem  that  a  condition 
-of   atmosphere    so   saturated   with    moisture   as   to  render   the 

■236 


Exploration  of  Mt.   Speke  and  ]\It.  Emin. 

mists  nearly  permanent  could  hardly  cause  so  rapid  an  evapora- 
tion as  alone  to  account  for  the  very  considerable  waste  of 
the  glaciers.  The  limpidity  of  the  waters  of  torrents  which 
spring  from  certain  glaciers  of  Ruwenzori  may,  in  all  probahilitv, 
be  ascribed  to  the  almost  complete  immobility  of  the  glaciers 
themselves,  owing  to  which  they  grind  no  detritus  from  the 
rocks  that  form  their  beds.  As  was  mentioned  in  the  preceding 
chapter,  these  glaciers  are  in  the  form  of  ice-caps  on  the 
summits  and  ridges  rather  than  of  true  streams  of  ice  flowing 
from   nevds,  as   is   the   case   in   our   own   Alps. 

Fully  to  estimate,  however,  the  importance  of  the  Ruwenzori 
chain  in  feeding  the  Nile,  we  mu.st  take  into  account  not  so 
much  the  glaciers  as  the  entire  mountain  range,  whose  highest 
peaks  soar  up  into  the  colder  strata  of  the  air,  and  gather  to 
themselves  and  precipitate  in  rain  and  snow  the  mass  of 
vapours  drawn  up  from  the  vast  plains  below,  while  the 
network  of  valleys  form  great  basins  to  collect  the  water  thus 
gathered.  The  reader  will  remember  that  on  the  western  and 
southern  slopes  alone  Stanley  counted  sixty-two  torrents  flowing 
from  the  mountains  into  the  Semliki  River  and  into  Lake 
Albert  Edward. 

On  the  evening  of  the  25th  of  June  the  scene  changed 
rapidly.  The  Avhole  sky  cleared  up,  and  a  marvellous  sunset 
kindled  the  whole  valley  and  the  far-ofi"  forest  of  the  Congo 
into  flaming  red. 

The  foUowino:  night  was  bitterly  cold.  On  the  morning  of 
the  26th,  the  Duke  and  the  guides  were  on  their  way  by  four 
o'clock.  The  frost  was  hard  and  all  the  water  frozen,  even  the 
little  lake  was  nearly  completely  covered  with  ice.  The  hard 
snow  gave  a  good  foothold  upon  the  glacier.  By  a  quarter 
past    five    they    were    once    more    on    the    summit    of  Vittorio 

237 


riinpter  VTTT. 

Emamiele  Peak.  A  cold  wind  was  Ijlowinj;'  tVoiu  the  nortli- 
M^est.  In  the  alisoliitelv  clear  and  transparent  air  the  outlines 
■of  the  peaks  stood  out  distinctly  Tipon  the  sky.  The  weather 
was  capital  for  topographical  \\'ork. 


^'itt^l^iu  Emamielp  Pt-ak. 


.Itihnstim  Peak. 

I 


JIT.    Sl'KKK    FKIIM    TIIK    STAXr.EY    Pr..VTE,\l'. 

Vittorio  Emannele  Peak  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of 
the  vast  circle  upon  which  are  distributed  the  mountains  and 
glaciers  of  Ruwenzori,  and  is  without  doubt  the  best  point 
of  observation  of  the  whole  range.  Northward  from  the  peak 
runs  the  long  ice  ridge  which  presently  dips  to  the  Cavalli 
Pass,  and  thence  rises  again  to  the  LTmberto  Peak  of  Mt.  Emin. 
A  deep  gorge  between  precipitous  clifis,  rininiiig  from  north 
to  south,  divides  Mt.  Emin  from  Mt.  Gessi.  The  two  peaks 
of  Mt.   Gessi,   lolanda  and   Bottego   are    clearly   visible   at  the 

238 


< 


=1, 


1^ 


Exploration  of  Mt.  Speke  and  Mt.  Emin. 

extreme  end  of  the  terminal  snow  ridge.  To  the  south-west 
rises  the  mighty  mass  of  Mt.  Stanley  with  its  five  peaks,  of 
which  the  Alexandra  Peak  is  scarcely  visible  to  the  left  and  to 
the  back  of  Margherita  Peak  ;  while  on  the  great  ice  plain  form- 
ing the  Stanley  plateau  they  were  able  to  discern,  like  little 
black  specks,  the  caravan  of  Vittorio  Sella,  on  his  way  up  to  the 
Alexandra  Peak  that  morning.  The  ring  of  glaciers  ends  to 
the  east  ^\■ith  the  Moore  Peak  of  Mt.  Baker,  where  thev  saw 
the  stone  man  which  Vittorio  Sella  had  set  up  there  a  few 
days  before. 

Through  the  opening  formed  by  the  Scott  Elliot  Pass,  as 
if  through  a  window,  they  saw  at  a  distance  the  western 
extremity  of  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia.  Between  this  mountain 
and  the  pass  the  eye  follows  the  valley  down  to  the  lakes 
to  the  west  of  Mt.  Baker.  Here  in  the  pale  light  of  the 
dawn  they  made  out  a  fire.  This  was  the  camp  of  the  native 
porters  who  were  bringing  supplies. 

Thus,  at  that  early  hour,  from  tlie  summit  of  Mt.  Speke, 
the  Duke  saw  the  whole  carefully  organized  wovk  of  his 
expedition  proceeding  befoi'e  his  eyes. 

A  little  after  seven  o'clock  they  were  back  at  the  tent, 
and  spent  the  rest  of  the  day  iu  drying  in  the  sim  their 
equipment,  which  was  soaked  with  the  rain  of  the  previous 
days. 

Towards  evening  a  few  more  Bakonjo  arrived  with  pro- 
visions. The  night  was  absolutely  clear  and  starry,  and  the  sun 
rose  in  a  perfectly  clear  sky.  The  Duke  started  ahead  with 
a  guide  and  proceeded  northward  across  the  interval  between 
the  lakes  and  the  foot  of  tlie  cliiF,  a  rocky  ledge  upon  which, 
about  600  feet  further  up,  the  glacier  comes  to  an  end  in  a 
cascade    of  seracs.     They   proceeded   by  leaping  from   one    to 

239 


Chapter  VIII. 

another  of  the  blocks  heaped  at  the  foot  of  the  chff.  The 
porters  found  au  easier  way  a  little  further  down  through 
the  senecios  and  helichrysums  between  the  second  and  third 
lakelets. 

Thus  skirting  along  the  glacier  they  presently  reached 
the  top  of  the  lofty  buttress,  which  runs  westward  from 
Mt.  Speke,  dividing  the  two  valleys  which  are  to  the  west  of 
the  Stuhlmann  and  Cavalli  Passes.  A  spur  of  rock  rises  from 
the  very  ridge,  forming  a  belvedere  14,744  feet  high,  from 
which  they  were  able  to  observe  the  way  which  lay  before 
them. 

Unfortunately  the  weather  was  already  changing,  and 
detached  drifts  of  mist,  which  had  been  gathering  here  and 
there,  now  began  rapidly  to  collect  and  melt  into  one  another. 
They  saw  quite  clearly  from  this  point  a  conical  rocky  peak 
rising  from  one  of  the  western  buttresses  of  Mt.  Emin — a 
sort  of  "  little  Matterhorn,"  which  may  possibly  have  been  one 
of  the  "  twin  cones "  towai'ds  which  Stairs  was  steering  on 
his  expedition  to  the  north-west  of  the  chain. 

To  reach  the  foot  of  Mt.  Emin  it  was  necessary  to  cross 
the  head  of  the  great  valley  which  runs  down  to  the  west  of 
the  Cavalli  Pass  and  cross  another  and  smaller  spur  which 
runs  into  this  valley  from  Mt.  Speke.  Hence  they  continued 
skirting  the  moimtains  at  the  foot  of  the  Grant  Glacier,  which 
seems  to  have  shrunk  even  more  than  the  others.  On  reaching; 
the  top  of  this  spur,  they  proceeded  to  descend,  skirting  the 
slope  towards  the  Cavalli  Pass,  taking  advantage  of  a  provi- 
dential ledge  which  squeezed  a  narrow  way  between  smooth 
steep  slabs  of  rock  which  would  otherwise  have  been  impassable. 
This  ledge  was  covered  with  a  dense  thicket  of  helichrysum, 
through  which  the  guides  cut  a  path.      The  valley  was  crossed 

240 


Exi)loratiou  of  ^It.  Speke  and  Mt.  Eniiu. 

iiPiU- the  t(i[),  just  uiidrr  the  col,  ;ni(l  Caiiip  \'l  was  estulilishml 
at  a  distance  of  ahout  half  a  mile  lielow  the  Uml)erto  (Jlacier 
upon  a  little  rocky  terrace  on  the  top  of  a  precipice  w  liich  reacheil 
to  the  bottom  of  the  valley.  About  500  feet  lower  down, 
this  valley  foi-ms  a  sort  of  amphitheatre  suriduiided  hv 
precipitous  cliffs,  exceptiuj;-  in  the  centre  wliere  a  yjeutler 
slope    leads    to    tlie    Cavalli     Pass.       To    the    west    it     nariows 


UiulKTtK  Peak. 


Ki-acpcliii  Peak. 


MT.    EMIN    SKEX    FKOM   THK    K)r..\NI).V    ilLACIKI!. 

i\iyalnt  t,ih-ii  /.//  II. II. II.) 

into  a  i»"orij;e  thi'oii!:;'h  which  flows  the  torrent  which  sprinirs 
from  the  southern  glaciers  of  ,Mt.  Emin.  The  days  march 
had  been  lonn,-.   and  all  were  tired. 

Uu  the  morning'  of  tiie  2Sth  of  .Inne  there  was  agani  a 
prospect  of  l)ad  weather.  They  left  with  a  cloudy  sky  and 
proceeded    to    ascend    a     rock\-    ridge    which     runs    down    from 

241  K 


Chapter  VIII. 

Umberto  Peak  between  the  Eiiiiii  and  Uniberto  Glaciers.  ( )n 
reacliin^  the  riglit  margin  of  the  latter  they  left  their  tent 
there  some  600  feet  above  tlie  sixth  cani]i  and  proceeded  to 
ascend  over  the  snow  which  covered  the  ghicier.  At  the  top 
they  turned  westward  towards  a  rockv  ridge,  bv  means  of 
which  they  reached  Umberto  Peak.  Here  they  remaineel  for 
five  hours,  but  Avere  scarcely  able  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  a 
])eak  here  and  tliere  among  the  mists.  Thev  built  a  l)ig 
stone  man    n])on   the   wide  I'oekv  summit. 

A  great  ridge  of  broken  and  decomposing  rock  runs  north- 
ward towards  Kraepelin  Peak,  which  is  lower  and  likewise 
I'ocky.  Mt.  Gessi,  on  the  other  side  of  the  narrt)w  gorge, 
lietween  precipitous  clitts,  lias  the  appearance  of  a  vast  col 
Avith  two  peaks  rather  slightlv  accentuated  at  the  northern 
and  southern  extremities  of  the  long  snoAvy  ridge.  It  Avas  late 
when  they  returned  to  the  tent  near  the  glacier.  The  Duke 
AA^ould  haA'e  liked  to  retmn  upon  Umberto  Peak  on  the  folloAving 
day  to  take  angles,  l)ut  tlie  Aveatlier  Avas  tlu'eatening  from  the 
dawn.  They  had  supplies  for  one  daA'  only.  At  such  a  distance 
from  Bujongolo,  which  \\as  their  liasp,  and  ^\'lth  so  man\'  passes  to 
cross  on  the  way,  it  Avas  not  easy  to  obtain  provisions  regularly. 
It  was  therefore  necessary  to  return. 

In  half  an  boui-  they  reached  Camjj  VI,  under  the  Cavalli 
Pass,  ascended  to  tlie  hclrcdo-c,  in  a  snoAvstorm,  and  in  the 
earlA'  hours  of  the  aftei'iioon  set  up  tlieir  tent  once  more  at 
the  foot  of  Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak.  ( )n  the  following  daA', 
a  lona'  march,  almost  entireh'  in  the  rain,  brouplit  them  o\'er 
the  Stuhlmann  Pass,  the  head  of  tlie  Bujuku  Valley,  and  tlie 
Scott  Elliot  Pass.  Tliey  once  more  set  uji  their  tents  at 
Camp  II,  on  tlie  shore  of  the  little  lake  at  the  toot  of  the 
AA'estern  slojie   of  Mt.    Baker.      liations  had   been   left   readA'    at 

242 


Exploration  of  'Sit.  Speke  and  Mt.  Eniin. 

preaiTaii<;e(l  jjoiiits  on  tlie  return  route,  so  that  the  caravan 
could  move  quickly,  having  only  to  carry  the  light  camp 
material. 

Finally,  on  the  1st  of  July,  they  crossed  the  Freshfield  Pass, 
wliere  Vittorio  Sella  had  set  up  his  tent,  and  was  waiting  witli 
Botta  for  fiir  weather  so  as  to  hi-  ahle  to  do  some  work  with  the 
camera.  The  Duke  proceeded  undei-  tailing  lain  and  retinned 
to  the  muddy  Mohuku  Valley,  and  to  the  camp  of  Buj(Migolo 
after  seventeen   davs'  ahsence. 

The  Prince  had  spent  the  wliole  of  this  time  at  lieights 
above  13,000  feet,  with  light  and  l)arely  sutKcient  equipment, 
sleeping  with  his  two  guides  in  a  single  Whvmper  tent, 
without  a  camj)  bed,  with  clothes  nearlv  always  soaked  with 
rain  and  snow,  and  with  such  discomfort  and  fatigue  as  are 
known  only  to  those  who  have  e.xpeiienced  mountain  life 
under  similar  conditions. 

Tn  the  course  of  the.se  .seventeen  days  he  had  ascendeil 
Marglierita,  Alexandra  (twice),  Elena,  and  Savoia  Peaks  of 
Mt.  Stanley,  Vittorio  Emanuele  Peak  of  Mt.  Speke  (twice), 
and  Umberto  Peak  of  Mt.  Emin,  crossed  tiie  Freshtiidd,  Scott 
Elliot,  and  Stuldinanu  Passes  and  explored  the  head  of  the 
Bujuku  Vallev,  and  the  western  slojies  of  Mt.  Speke.  fh- 
had  determined  the  relative  positions  of  the  peaks,  and  the 
relation  to  each  other  of  tiie  seveial  groujis,  a  work  already 
in  great  part  sketched  out  during  his  fir,st  ascents  of  tlie 
])eaks  of  Mt.  Baker,  but  now  completed  by  numei-ous  altimetric 
and  angular  mensuiations. 

His  work  was  carefully  planned  to  proceed  in  conjunction 
with  that  of  the  otiier  members  of  the  exj)editioii.  in  order 
to  insure  a  thorougli  exploration  of  the  ranges,  as  we  shall 
see  in  the  following  ciiajiter. 

:^4:!  I!  -' 


CHAPTER  IX. 

FcilTHER    AS(_:ENTS    ON    Mt,S.    StANLEY,    LuKil     Dl     SaVOIA 

AND  Baker.     Work  at  Bujongolo. 


Thiee  more  ascents  of  the  Alexandra  Peak — Ascent  of  ISIoebiiis  Peak — Crossing 
of  the  Central  Col  of  Mt.  Stanley — A  week  of  bad  weather  on  the  Freshfield 
Pass — Ascent  of  the  Edwaid  Peak  liy  the  South  Ridge— Ascent  of  the  Sella 
Peak — Work  at  Bujongolo — Preparation  of  a  Base  Line — H.B.H.  returns  to  the 
p]dward  Peak  —Ascent  of  the  Cagni  Peak — Panorama  taken  from  the  Edward 
Peak — Ascent  of  E'eaks  WolUiston  and  Moore —The  death  of  the  leojjard  — 
General  plan  of  return. 

The  history  of  an  expe(liti(-)u 
divided  into  groups  with 
(hstinet  special  aims,  and 
husv  sinmltaneouslv  witli  their 
several  labours  in  different 
jilaces,  is  necessarily  dis- 
connected, and  must  now  and 
again  go  back  to  take  up 
another  thread,  and  so  follow 
the  course  of  eacli  separate 
section   individually. 

We     must     therefore     besr 

o 

the  reader  to  return  to  the 
22nd  of  June,  when  the  Diike  left  Camp  IV  on  the  Scott 
Elliot  Pass  to  descend  into  the  Bujuku  A'alley  and  penetrate 
to     the      northern     moimtains.        At     tliis     date     Comnu^nder 


Cas: 


lu     a 


lul     Dr.     Cavalli,     and     the     iiuide     Broclierel,      were 


■2U 


Further  Ascents  and  \\'ork  at  Bujongctlo. 

asceudiiiu;  the  Alexandra    IVak    in   a    dense   fog.        Durino-    tlie 
three     hours     they    spent    on     the     sinnniit     tliev    had    a    few 


CI.IMKINC    rriK   .U.K.X ANHKA    I'EAK. 

ijhnipses  of  clear  sky  tind  \\ere  ahle  to  discern  the  neigliljourini;- 
Marglierita  Peak  and  to  repeat  certam  compass  ohservatioiis 
of  the  surrounding  nioinitains.  <  )n  their  way  hack  thev  had 
to  wade  through   soft   snow  to  the  knee. 

Vittorio  Sella  had  h-ft  at  daybreak  with  his  photographic 
equipment  and  succeeded  in  getting  a  few  views  of  tlie 
peaks  from  the  ridges  around  the  camji.  while  Iloccati  was 
collecting  geological  data  and  mineralogical  specimens. 

Durini;  the  :i3rd  and  the  24th  the  same  storm  which  had 
rendered  useless  the  Dukes  first  ascent  to  Vittorio  Emanuele 
Peak  and  had  kept  him  a  jirisoner  in  ('amp  V  for  two  whole 
days,  prevented  Vittorio  SeUa  and  Knccati  fioni  acconiplislmig 
any  sort  of  work  (mtside  of  the  tent. 

245 


Chapter  IX. 

As  to  Cagiii,  lie  was  in  a  Imnv  to  get  back  to  Bujoiigolo 
as  soon  as  inlglit  l)e,  in  (n-(ler  to  lose  no  time  in  starting  his 
magnetic  olxservations  and  in  calculating  the  formation  of  a 
base  line,  which  was  necessarv  to  complete  the  triangnlaticni. 
He  left  Camp  IV  on  the  23nl  with  Dr.  Cavalli,  and  the  very 
same  evening  crossed  the  Fi'eshtield  Pass,  and  reached  Bujongolo 
under  pouring  rain.  He  left  deposits  of  rations  along  the 
way  for  the  use  of  those  who  had  remained  hehind.  Di-.  Cavalli 
remained  at  Camp  HI,  at  tlie  foot  of  the  western  .slope  of 
Mt.  Baker,  to  collect  botanical  specimens,  and  only  reached 
Bujongolo  on  the  following  day,  also  in  a  coni})letely  soaked 
condition. 

He  foimd  Cagni  busy  with  all  sorts  of  occupations.  He  had 
been   working    at   organization,    paying   porters,  etc.,   and   was 


MOF.IMl'S    PKAK    FKOM    Tin:   SOUTH-KAST    KlIXiK   OF   THE   AI.EXAXDKA    PEAK. 


now  engaged  in  .sending  oft'  small  parties  of  natives  to  provide 
the  Duke's  party  with  rations  in  the  far  vallevs  to  the  west  of 

246 


MOUNT  LUIGI  DI  SAVOIA    TAKEN  FROM  KING  EDWARDS  PEAK.   MOUNT  BAKER 


NG  EDWARU 


Further  Ascents  and  Work  at  Buionffolo 

Mt.  Speke.  Several  Bakonjd  hud  liruis.-d  tlirii-  feet  and 
stood  in  need  of  the  doctor's  care.  Protitiny-  \,y  the  absence 
of  the  greater  part  of  tlic  tents,  they  proceeded  witl.  tli,- 
work  of  improving  the  camp,  eidai-ging  tlie  ])latf(>rms  alivudv 
existmg  and  forming  new  ones,  tiUing  up  holes,  moving  l)locl<s 
of  rock  and  cutting  down  trees  to  increase  tlie  level  space  at 
their  disposal. 

The  fearful  weather  prevented'  them  fiom  takini;-  anv 
observations.  During  a  wliole  week  ( 'ommandfr  Cagnl  was  not 
al)le  to  see  the  svul  for  a  single  continuous  hour.  The  rainfall 
was  sligiit  hut  almost  incessant,  and  the  fog  was  so  dense  as 
to  make   it   imjmssible  to  see   the   further  side  of  the   valley. 

In  sj)ite  of  all  this,  Connnandt^'  (  agni  was  able  to  take 
a  few  astronomical  observations  during  fugitive  moments  of 
clear  weather  on  the  25th,   l'7th,   and   I'Sth   of  June. 

On  the  25th,  Vittorio  Sella,  taking  advantage  of  a  slight 
improvement  in  the  weather,  started  fi-om  ('amp  IV  with 
Roccati,  Brocherel,  and  Botta  and  accomplished  tlip  ascent 
of  the  Moebius  Peak,  the  onlv  one  of  Mt.  Stanley  which  had 
not  yet  Ijeen  ascended.  He  tlu'U  maile  a  short  excursion 
on  the  .sei'pentine  rocks  of  the  western  slo|ies.  crossing  the 
ridge  after  demolishing  the  great  snowy  cornice  with  the  ice- 
axes.  Here  thev  had  a  view  of  two  good-sized  lakes  in  the 
\alley  to  the  west.  They  came  back  to  camp  under  a  lieavy 
.snowfall,   but   the  dav  had   not    bet-n    wasted. 

He  set  forth  again  on  the  followmg  mornmg.  b\'  flavhreak. 
with  Brocherel  and  Botta.  From  the  ice  plain  thev  saw  the 
i)\ike  on  the  snmnut  of  the  A'ittorio  i-juanuele  Peak.  'I'hey 
took  photographs  between  one  dnl't  of  mist  and  anotiier, 
and  in  due  time  reached  the  sunumt  of  Alexandra  I'eak. 
The   snow    began    to   tall   again   as   they  returned    to   camp. 

2-47 


Chapter  IX. 

Tlie   27tli    Avas    all    even  more    successful  ilay    tor    Vittorio 
Sella,  who,  accoinnaiiied  liy  Roccati,  first  re-asceuded  Alexandra 


SAVOIA,    KI.K.NA     AM)     JloKllllS    I'KAKS,    AND    JIT.    l.UUa    1>1    SAAUIA    SEEN    FROM 
THE    SOUTH-EAST    RIUOE    OF   THE   ALEXANDRA    PEAK. 

Peak,  whicli  was  thus  climhrd  for  the   fifth   time,  then  returned 

to  the  Stanley  plateau,  and   witli  Brocherel  and   Botta  crcssed 

the    col    hetween     Alexandra    and   Moeliius    Peaks,    and    went 

ahout    1,300    feet    down  the  hroken   western  glacier.       From  a 

i-ocky  spur  projecting  between  the  glaciers  which  descend  from 

Moebius  Peak  and  those  which  descend  from  Alexandra  Peak 

he  Avas  able  to  take  several  photographs  of  the  Avestern  slopes, 

thus    getting  a  complete   series  of  A'ieAA's  of  Mt.    Stanley   from 

every  side.* 

*  The  rocky  spur  at  the  foot  of  the  western  glaciers  of  jNIt.  Stanley, 
which  was  climbeil  'ly  \'ittoiio  Selhi,  conies  out  quite  clearly  in  Stuhlmanii's 
plate,  reproduced  on  p.  206.  The  photographs  taken  liy  Vittorio  Sella  on 
this  occasion  are  those  which  have  enabled  us  to  identify  with  ^It.  Stanley 
the  nioiiiitaiu  represented  in  the  above-mentioned  plate. 

248 


Further  Ascents  and  Work  at  Bujongolo. 

Thence  he  re-ascended  to  the  ridge  and  to  the  j.lateau,  and 
returned  witli   Roccati  to  the  camp. 

On  the  followmg  day,  in  a  .storm  of  snow  and  hail,  tliey 
struck  camp  with  tlie  assistance  of  the  porters  newly 
arrived  from  Bujongolo,  and  descended  to  tlie  lakes  to  the 
west  of  Mt.  Baker.  On  the  29th  they  again  set  up  their 
tent  on  the  Fre.shtield  Pass.  On  the  verv  same  day  the 
photographic  camera  was  planted  high  on  the  south  ridge  of 
the  Edward  Peak,  near  to  the  edge  of  the  glacier.  After  three 
hours  of  vain  waiting  under  rain  and  sleet,  thev  hnallv  came 
down    to    the    tent,   leaving    the   camera    where    it    stood.      The 


FRESH    SNOW   0\    FRESIIFIELD  S   PASS. 


whole  of  the  following  day  was  spent  upon  the  ridge,  crouching 
under  the  snowfall  close  to  the  camei'a.  Even  on  the  pass  so 
much  snow  had  fallen  that  it  had  hrought  down  the  tent.  The 
tirewood  was  soaked  through  and  through,  and  in  spite  of 
copious  libations  of  petroleum  it  was  extremely  difficult  to 
kindle. 

249 


Chapter  IX. 

By  the  Ist  of  Julv,  Roccati  had  fiiiisliwl  his  collection  ot 
minerals  and  rocks  around  this  pass  and  the  neighbouring 
glacieis.  He  therefore  descended  to  Bujongolo,  leaving  Vittorio 
Sella  alone  witli  Brocherel  and  Botta,  obstinately  determined 
not  to  give  up  the  struggle.  In  the  afternoon  the  Duke  also 
crossed  the  pass,  returning  from  the  far  distant  Mt.  Emin  and 
proceeding  dii'ectly  to  Bujongolo. 

( )n  tlie  following  morning,  in  most  unpromising  weather, 
Vittorio  Sella,  witli  tlie  two  guides,  climlied  the  Edward  Peak 
directlv  fnun  the  col  by  tlie  soutliern  ridge.  He  was  able  to 
take  an  occasional  jihotograpli  and  an  incomplete  panorama. 
(_)n  the  way  down  he  was  overtaken  by  a  violent  recrudescence 
of  the  storm,  which  lasted  the  whole  of  the  next  day  with 
alternate  snow  and   liail. 

The  spectacle  presented  by  storms  at  that  altitude  (above 
14,000    feet)    is    surpassingly    grand.       Heavy    cumulus    clouds 


MT.    STANLEY    FKOM    KKESIIFIEI.I)  S    COL. 


hang  over  the  Semliki  River,  wliicli  winds  far  otf  in   the  valley 
like  a  streak  of  silver.      Hu<ie  bodies  of  wliiirniLi,'  vaixmrs  rise 


250 


Further  Ascents  and  Work  at   Bujongf)l(). 

from  the  eastern  and  western  valleys  and  strike  one  anotiier 
with  an  incessant  explosit)n  of  lightning  and  thunder,  dissolving 
only  to  be  replaced  Ijv  fresh   supplies  from  l)el()\\'. 

Often  of  an  evening  after  a  day  of  fog,  rain,  snow  and  hail, 
the  skv  clears  up.  Through  the  moist  atmosphere,  as  trans- 
parent as  glass,  the  sinking  sun  appears  like  a  vast  glol)e  of 
tire,  sulfusing  the  valleys,  glaciers  and  snows  to  th^'  westward 
with  vivid  ilame  coloin\ 

On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  Jidy,  Yittorio  Sella  with  his 
two   companions  again   left   the  tent    to    climb   to    the    centnd 

Sella  Peak.  Weisinaim  IVak. 

I  I 


MT.    l.lUa    PI    S.WOI.V    FK(l^[    FUESIIFIEI.DS   CGI.. 

peak   of  Mount    Lnigl   di    Savoia    whicii    now    bears    his   name. 
Crossing  the  head  of  the  valley  to  the  west  of  the  Freshfield 

2:>\ 


Chapter  IX. 

Pass  he  reached  a  depression  of  tlie  ridi;e.  It  was  extremely 
difficuh  to  find  tlie  wav  in  tlic  mist.  Numerous  aiguilles 
of  rock  ol)Iioed  them  to  cross  a  steep  neve  to  the  south  of  the 
ridge  and  then  to  retin-n  to  the  north  side  under  tlie  sunuuit, 
which  thev  reached  hy  a  rocky  g^dly.  The  Sella  Peak, 
15,280  feet,  is  rocky  and  dotted  with  numerous  fulgurites. 
The  edges  of  the  slahs  are  here  and  there  ])erforated  to  a  deptli 
of  some  inches   and   look   as    if  tliey    "were    worm-eaten.      They 


THE  sorxn  raixiE  of  edwaud  rE.VK  and  the  camp  close  to 

FUEHHFIEI-D's    I'ASS. 


spent   several    horns    upon    the   sununit  without    the    chance    of 
taking  a  single  photograph.      They  were  scarcely  able,  dining  a 

2.52 


Further  Ascents  and  Work  at  Bujongolo. 

momentary  clearing  of  the  mist,  to  distinguisli  the  Wei.smaiiii 
Peak  to  the  south-west  at  the  end  of  a  lonu-  snowy  rido-e. 
On  tlieir  return  tliey  descended  straight  to  the  Ijottom  of 
the  valley,  wliich  was  full  of  watery  and  niuddv  spots,  witli 
the  usual  vegetation  of  senecio,  and  reached  the  tent  after 
iiiM-htfall  with  fine  moonliidit. 

Vlttorio  Sella  finally  rejoined  the  rest  of  the  expedition 
at  Bujongolo  on  the  5th  of  -Tuly,  after  a  whole  week  spent 
upon  the  Freshfield  Pass  in  fruitless  expeditions  up  ttie  lidu-es, 
and  hours  and  horu's  of  waiting  heside  his  camera  in  the  storms. 
For  all  his  tenacity  and  enertjy  he  liad  not  succeeded  in  liettinu' 
a  complete  panorama  fioni  tlie  Edward  Peak  as  he  had  proposed 
to  do. 

The  party  at  Bujongolo  had  not  meantime  remained  idle. 
Commander  Cagni  had  vainly  attempted  to  take  magnetic 
observations,  but  was  prevented  by  the  abundance  of  minerals 
containing  iron  in  the  rocks  around  Bujongolo.  This  infinence 
was  so  considerable  that  it  could  be  felt  even  when  tlie 
inclinometer  was  placed  at  a  height  of  some  yards  above 
the  earth  upon  a  wooden  frame-work  constructetl  for  the 
ptu'pose. 

The  OTeatest  diflicultv,  however,  was  in  tinding  a  streteli 
of  ground  level  enough  and  wide  enough  to  allow  of  nieasuiing 
a  base  line  whose  extremities  were  to  be  connected  with  two 
of  the  peaks  forming  a  part  of  the  network  of  angles 
measm'ed  by  the  Duke  from  the  difierent  monntains  whir-li  he 
ascended. 

There  was  a  level  place  some  distance  back,  above  the 
clirt",  at  the  foot  of  which  stood  the  Camp  of  Bujongolo.  But 
from  this  level  space  they  cordd  only  see  the  Edward  and 
Catrni  Peaks  which   liad   not    been   connected  with  the   others. 

253 


Chapter  IX. 

Another  place  liiglier  up  on  the  path  leadiu^j  to  the  Freshfield 
Pass,  whii-h  tlie  rains  and  tlie  going  to  and  fio  of  the  porters 
had  now  rechieed  to  the  condition  of  a  ditcli  full  of  mnd, 
oiiered  no  hetter  oppoi'tnnities.  The  Duke  and  C'agni  hecauie 
convinced  of  this  after  spending  a  whole  day  there  in  the 
rain. 

They  accordingly  ])lanned  to  prepare  a  base  line  t>n  the 
first -mentioned  level  hehind  Biijongolo.  The  Duke  was  then 
to  re-ascend  the  Edward  Peak,  while  Cagni  was  to  climl)  the 
nioTnitain  which  hears  his  name,  and  from  these  two  they  were 
to  measure  the  angles  of  the  other  peaks.  Everything  now 
depended  upon  the  good  luck  of  getting  a  few  hours  of  clear 
weather  upon  these  two  summits. 

Meantime,  on  the  2nd  of  July,  the  Duke  made  a  recognizance 
in  the  valley  which  runs  between  Mts.  Baker  and  Casrni  and 
comes  out  opposite  Bujongolo.  This  valley  he  found  to  be 
liarred  l)y  great  steep  slabs  of  rock,  e.x.tremely  .slippery  and 
certainly  nnpassable  for  tlie  native  porters.  The  weather 
continued  bad.  Mt.  Baker  was  completely  covered  with  fre.sh 
snow.  In  the  valley  the  rain  liad  turned  the  whole  ground 
into  one  mass  of  deep  mud.  (Jn  the  4tli  of  July,  between 
the  showers,  they  succeeded,  by  taking  advantage  of  every 
break  in  the  fog,  in  tracing  the  base  line  upon  the  level  tract 
above  the  camp,  which  consisted  of  a  carpet  of  mo.ss  upon 
a  muddy  soil,  dotted  with  senecios  dripping  with  rain.  In 
order  to  mom  it  the  theodolite  at  the  extremities  of  the  base 
line,  thev  were  obliged  to  build  real  fomidations,  sinking 
tree  trunks  into  the  mud  more  tlian  si.x  feet  down  to  serve 
as  piles. 

Hardly  had  they  taken  these  preparatory  measm-es  before 
the    weather    ])egan    to    improve.      On    the    5tb    of  July,    on    a 

25i 


Fui-ther  Ascents  and  Work  at   Jiuionirolo. 

perfectly  clear  and  very  cold  nioriiiiig,  the  Duke  aoaiu  went 
up  to  the  Freshfield  Pass.  Roccati,  who  had  accompanied 
him  so  tar.  Iiere  re-descended  to  Bujongolo  with  Sella,  while 
H.R.il.  proceeded  directly  to  the  Edward  Peak,  toUowin^-  the 
southern  crest  aloni;-  wliicli  Sella  had  made  the  ascent  three 
days  before.  Tlie  mists  returned  before  he  reached  tlie  summit. 
It  was  only  late  in  the  afternoon  tliat  lie  was  al)le  to  take  a 
few  angles  in   a   lirief  moment   of  clear  skv. 

The  Duke  returned  to  the  camp  at  nightfall.  (_)n  tlie 
6th  of  Jidy  the  weather  was  again  comjiletelv  overcast  and 
no  work  was  possible,  but  on  the  7th  lie  returned  earlv  in 
the  morning  to  thd'  sunnnit  and  was  al)le  to  complete  all  tiie 
measurements. 

On  tlie  following  morning  he  ascended  the  Stairs  Peak  ot 
'Sit.   Luigi  di  Savoia  before  returning  to  Bujongolo. 

Commander  Cagni  in  the  meantime  had  left  Bujongolo  on 
the  ()th  witli  Josepli  Petigax,  Brocherel  and  a  few  natives 
to  ascend  the  rocky  peak  to  the  north  of  the  camp,  wliicii  was 
to  be  connected  on  one  hand  with  one  e.xtremitv  of  the  base 
line,  and  on  the  other  with  the  net  of  angles  of  the  diti'erent 
peaks. 

The  Cagni  Peak,  as  mav  be  seen  upon  the  map.  rises  at 
the  .southern  extremity  of  a  buttress  wliicli  runs  Ijetween 
:\rt.  Baker  and  the  South  Portal  Peak,  flanked  by  two  little 
vallevs  coutainintr  small  lakes  and  tributarv  streams  of  the 
Moljuku. 

Wishiuii'  to  avoid  tlie  .slabs  of  rock  wliich  had  iirevented 
the  Duke  in  his  recognizance  of  tiie  :2nd  of  .July  from  enteiing 
the  valley  to  the  west  of  the  peak,  and  likewise  to  avoid 
crossing  the  Mobuku  Vallev  below  Bujongolo  in  the  deep  mire 
and  throuirh  the  dense  heath    forest.  Cagni  had  decided   to  yo 


255 


Chapter  IX. 

up  the  slopes  of  Mt,  Baker  and  thence  to  traverse'  under 
Wollaston  and  Moore  Peaks,  towards  the  Cagui   Peak. 

Accordingly  the  party  turned  its  steps  first  towards 
Grauer's  Camp  near  to  the  Moore  Glacier,  and  thence  skirted 
the  eastern  slopes  of  Mt.  Baker,  intending  to  reach  tlie  col 
to  the  east  of  the  Moore  Peak.  But  their  eternal  enemy  tht- 
fog  ohliged  them  to  stop  on  tlie  steep  slope  in  the  snow, 
stones  and   mud. 

( )n  the  following  day  it  hecame  plain  tliat  it  was  impossihle 
to  pursue  this  route.  It  was  necessary  to  go  down  to  the  narrow 
gorge  between  Wollaston  Peak  and  Mt.  Cagui.  This  was  no 
easy  task,  and  in  more  places  than  one  tliey  were  obliged  to  let 
do\A'n  the  loads  by  a  rope,  and  even  to  let  down  the  porters  as 
if  tliev  were  parcels.  Once  at  the  foot  of  the  south-west  side 
of  tlie  Cagni  Peak,  whicli  was  quite  perpendicular  to  the  very 
bottom  of  tlie  little  valley,  they  ascended  this  latter  as  far  as 
its  head,  througli  a  dense  wood  of  heath,  and  set  up  their  tents 
UTimediately  under  the  col. 

From  this  ])oint,  on  July  8th,  they  followed  the  spur  which 
bears  the  Cagni  Peak  at  its  end  along  its  whole  length  from 
noi'th  to  south,  keeping  upon  its  western  slope.  In  this  way 
tliev  reached  the  terminal  cone,  where  they  left  their  e(piipment, 
and  after  a  short  climb  in  the  mist,  about  l^.SO  p.m.  they 
reached  a  small  platform,  which  they  took  for  the  summit.  The 
camp  theodolite  was  at  once  set  up  upon  its  tripod.  Suddenly 
through  the  mist  they  j)erceived  to  the  simth  the  real  peak, 
which  the  refraction  of  the  mist  caused  them  to  .see  as  if  at 
a  very  great  height  over  their  heads.  The  theodolite  was 
immediately  taken  down,  they  descended  from  the  little  point 
which  they  had  reached,  and  after  a  real  Alpine  climb  up  a  very 
narrow  ridge  over  a  difficult  h'ltoH  ai'Ste,  about  12  feet  high  with 

L'.5C 


MOUNT  CAGNI 


Further  Ascents  and  Work  at  liujongolo. 

insufficient  luuulholds,  and  skirting  round  rocky  gendarmes  on 
their  smooth,  steep  sides,  they  reached  the  real  summit  about 
six  in  the  evening. 

The  mist  had  entirely  (h'sappeared,  hut  nightfall  was  very 
neai'.  Commander  Cagni  had  scarcely  time  to  take  observations 
of  all  the  peaks  witli  the  compass.  They  came  dow  n  in  tlie 
dark. 

On  the  following  morning  by  sunrise,  the  weather  being 
perfectly  clear,  Cagni  was  once  more  on  the  summit,  and  was 
able  to  take  measurements  of  all  the  angles  with  the  theodolite 
and  with  the  compass.  They  set  up  a  stone  man,  and  by  eight 
o'clock  they  were  preparing  to  return  wlien  the  first  mists  began 
to  rise.  They  came  back  by  the  same  wav.  along  the  spur  to 
the  north  of  the  peak  and  then  down  into  the  little  valley 
to  the  west  of  it,  which  they  now  descended  to  tlie  point 
where  it  opens  into  the  Mobuku  Valley.  Here  the  mist,  whicli 
had  become  dense,  Avas  added  to  all  the  otlier  flifficulties  of 
crossing  the  tangled  forest,  which  was  verv  similar  to  the  one 
above  Kichuchu.      They  reached  Bujongolo  the  same  evening. 

Sella  was  there  alone,  waiting  for  Cagni's  Alpine  tent  to  set 
forth  u])on  a  new  photographic  expedition.  The  Duke  had 
gone  up  to  Camp  I  upon  Mt.  Baker  that  very  day.  Fioni 
this  point  on  the  following  day,  July  lOtli.  tlnough  a  gullv  to 
the  east  and  then  along  the  south  ridge,  he  reached  the 
\Volla.ston  Peak,  15,286  feet,  which  had  not  as  yet  been 
ascended  by  any  member  of  the  expedition.  The  rocks  were 
covered  with  ice.  The  weather  was  clear,  and  he  was  able 
to  take  observations  for  two  whole  hours.  Next,  following 
the  high  ridge,  he  traversed  to  the  Moore  Peak,  whence  he 
came  down  along  the  ridge  which  hail  aln-ady  liecn  clinihrd 
bv  Vittorio  Sella,  to  the  Grauer  Col,  and  so  back  to  Bujongokj. 


•lot 


Chapter  IX. 

Vittorio  Sella  had  set  forth  in  the  morning  with  Botta  and 
a  few  natives,  and  had  returned  to  the  Freshfield  Pass.  He 
did  not  return  again  to  Bujongolo.  On  the  11th  of  July  he 
was  again  upon  the  Edward  Peak  at  sunrise,  and  was  at  last 
enabled  to  take  the  complete  panorama  of  the  chain  for  which 
he  had  once  waited  a  whole  week  in  vain  on  the  Freshfield 
Pass.  On  the  way  back  he  paid  a  visit  to  the  little  knol)  some- 
what lower  down,  which  had  been  climbed  twice  by  Wollaston, 
whose  card  lie  now  found  with  the  following  inscriptions  : 
"A.  F.  R.  Wollaston,  R.  B.  Woosnam,  17th  February,  1906. 
Height  by  aneroid  16,050  feet." 

"A.  F.  R.  Wollaston  (Alpine  Club),  R.  B.  Woosnam, 
D.  Carruthers  of  the  British  Museum  Expedition  to  Ruwenzori. 
Five  hours  from  Bujongolo.  Water  boil.  183"6  ;  temp,  of  air 
397  ;  aneroid  16,150  feet,  3rd  April,  1906." 

On  the  12th  of  July,  the  weather  remaining  fair.  Sella  again 
ascended  the  Stairs  Peak,  where  he  took  some  good  photographs. 
In  the  meantime  Commander  Cagni  had  done  two  days'  work 
in  finishing  the  mensuration  of  the  base  line  and  connecting  it 
with  Edward  and  Cagni  Peaks,  and  was  able  to  complete  an 
occultation,  fixing  the  longitude  and  the  latitude  of  one  of  its 
extremities. 

In  order  to  follow  the  intense  activity  of  all  the  diflerent 
members  of  the  expedition  occupied  in  such  various  ways  and 
yet  directed  to  one  common  aim,  our  story  has  necessarily 
become  little  more  than  a  simple  list  of  facts  and  of  dates. 

After  the  retiu'n  of  the  expedition  to  Bujongolo,  the  leopard 
had  resumed  his  daring  visits  to  the  camp,  killing  sheep  and 
coming  close  to  the  fires  among  the  native  porters  to  steal 
the  meat.  Everyone  was  too  busy  to  heed  him.  But  the 
cook,   Igini,   with    Bulli,   planned   an    ambush    with    two    rifles 

258 


Further  Ascents  and  ^\'ork  at  Biijongolo. 

and  a  piece  of  meat.  One  night  the  splendid  animal  fell  into 
this  trap  and  was  killed  on  the  sj)ot  with  two  halls  through 
its  skull. 

On  the  12th  of  July,  the  Prince  was  ahle  to  consider  the 
work  of  the  expedition  as  ended.  On  the  7th,  Roccati,  who 
had  again  returned  to  the  Mohuku  Glacier  to  put  marks  of 
red  paint  on  the  rocks  at  the  limit  where  the  ice  stopped, 
and  who  had  finished  arranging  all  his  collections,  had 
already  left  Bujongolo  with  Cavalli  and  with  a  party  of 
Bakonjo  porters  carrying  a  portion  of  the  e(|uipmeut,  hound 
for  Ihanda,  the  lowest  camp  in  the  Mohuku  Valley. 

One  mountain  alone  remained  unclimlied,  namely, 
Mt.  Gessi,  and  the  Duke  was  not  in  a  mood  to  leave  it 
unattempted,  all  the  more  so  as  this  ascent  would  be 
connected  with  an  exploration  of  the  Bujuku  Valley  as  yet 
absolutely  unknown  and  worth  traversing  in  its  whole  length. 
A  party  of  Bakonjo  had  started  from  the  point  where  the 
Bujuku  Valley  opens  into  the  Mohuku  Valley  opposite 
Nakitawa,  and  had  already  cut  a  rough  track  as  far  as  the 
head  of  the  Valley. 

The  plan  was  now  for  the  Duke  to  descend  the  Bujuku 
Valley  with  Sella,  while  Cagni  was  to  direct  the  transport 
of  all  the  portion  of  the  equipment  which  was  still  at 
Bujongolo  down  the  Mohuku  Valley,  and  was  then  to  meet 
Cavalli  and  Roccati  at  Ibanda  and  there  wait  for  tlie  Duke. 
Thus  Ibanda  became  the  general  rendezvous  for  the  whole 
expedition. 


2.59  s  2 


CHAPTER  X. 

Exploration  of  the  Bujuku  Valley  and  of  Mt.  Gessi. 
Return  of  the  Expedition. 


Departure  from  Bujongolo — The  Camp  of  Ibauda — Visit  to  the  Glacier  Lake  of 
the  Mahoma  Valley — H.R.H.  leaves  Bujongolo —Lake  Bujuku — Descent  of  the 
Bujuku  Valley — The  Migusi  Valley — Ascents  of  the  Peaks  of  Mount  Gessi — 
The  Lower  Bujuku  Valley — The  Expedition  meets  at  Ibanda — Resume  of  the 
Mountaineering  Work  of  the  Expedition — Return  to  Fort  Portal — The  Volcanic 
Region  of  Toro — Some  Shooting — Arrival  at  Entebbe — The  Ripon  Falls — • 
Departure  from  Africa — Sir  Henry  Stanley's  wish  realized. 

On  the  1st  of  Jvilv,  immediately 
after  the  Duke  letunied  to  Bujon- 
golo from  Mt.  Emui,  preparations 
had  ])een  commenced  for  leaving 
the  moinitains  definitely,  and  had 
been  carried  on  during  the  intervals 
left  free  by  the  varied  work  of  the 
camp.  In  this  way  were  gradually 
prepared  the  loads  containing  the 
scientific  collections,  the  instru- 
ments, and  all  those  objects  which 
were  no  longer  necessary. 
They  had  at  their  disposal  some  forty  Bakonjo  portei's  only, 
as  it  woidd  have  been  difficult  to  have  provided  supplies  for  a 
greater  number  so  far  from  Ibanda.     It  was  therefore  necessary 

260 


Bujuku  Valley. — Return  of  the  Expedition. 

to  cany  down  the  equipineut  in  several  trips.  The  tirst  party 
of  porters  had  left  Bujongolo  ou  the  4th  July  with  forty  loads. 
Oil  tlie  7th  a  second  caravan  went  down,  accompanied  by 
Roccati  and  by  Cavalli,  who  liad  iiastened  his  departure  when 
he  heard  tluit  there  were  porters  ill  in  various  camps  of  the 
valley,  a  report  wliich  proved  to  lie  without  foundation.  A 
week  later  Cagni  left  Bujongolo  witli  Laurent  Petigax, 
Brocherel,  Igini,  and  twenty-three  natives  ;  the  Duke  had  left 
for  the  Bujuku  Valley  on  the  previous  day.  Finally,  on  the 
loth  of  July,  the  departure  of  BuUi  with  a  last  party  of  thirty 
Bakonjos  left  Bujongolo  deserted. 

All  were  satisfied  with  the  work  done,  and  were  in  fine 
spirits  at  the  prospect  of  returning  home,  and  left  without  a 
reofret  the  wild  rock  which  had  offered  them  shelter  durinsr  five 
weeks.  They  were  glad  to  leave  behind  tliem  so  much  mud 
and  stones,  the  melancholy  vegetation  consumed  by  the 
mildews  and  lichens,  the  pallid  light  of  the  mists,  the 
everlasting  drip  of  the  rain,  the  damp  and  the  cold,  and  to 
get  back  to  the  sun  and  the  dry  heat  of  the  tropical  plains, 
the  life  and  the  colour,  the  cries  of  birds,  the  bright  flowers 
and  the  gay  crowd  of  thoughtless  and  noisy  Bagandas. 

The  Mobuku  lliver,  swollen  Ijy  more  than  fifteen  days 
of  continuous  rains,  was  no  longer  recognizable.  It 
formed  magnificent  cascades  from  one  of  the  vallev  terraces 
to  another.  At  every  step  ou  their  way  down,  the  parties 
met  porters  on  their  way  up  to  Bujongolo  to  fetch  loads. 

A  month  before,  when  they  first  came  up  from  the  plain,  the 
valley  had  struck  them  as  almost  without  sound  of  animal 
life,  but  now,  after  weeks  spent  in  the  silence  of  the  mountains 
where  at  the  utmost  an  occasional  crow  hovered  overhead, 
tliey  were  impressed  by  every  buzzing  of  insects  or  fluttering 

261 


Chapter  X. 

of  wings.  Bihiinga  had  hecome  an  iiuportaut  centre.  It  was 
the  jjlace  wlieie  the  Bakonjo  porters  passed  on  the  loads  to 
the  Baganda  of  the  plain  who  had  again  been  concentrated 
at  Iljanda. 

Ibanda  had  now  become  a  big  permanent  camp.  The 
members  of  the  expedition,  as  they  arrived  from  Bujongolo, 
were  received  bv  the  neighbouring  chieftains  with  the  usual 
ceremony  and  oflering  of  gifts.  The  camp  had  become  the 
natural  meeting  place  for  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  surromiding 


.  •  W7  I^T^'' ^^^^'^^^TrT^^^T^Pl^TWi 

.'/  ^ 

■]^:£ii  l^n    f.    rnFr 

" 

PORTERS  I\  CAMP,  AT  IBANDA. 

villages.  Women  and  old  men  were  busy  rooting  out 
weeds  and  j^reparing  the  ground  to  construct  new  huts 
near  the  tents.  From  morning  till  night  there  was  a  racket 
and  bustle  ;  they  all  crowded  aromid  the  fires,  around  the 
kitchens,  around  the  barbers,  while  the  native  soldiers  wandered 
hither  and  thither  attempting  to  keep  a  little  order  in  the 
confusion.  The  ii\er  was  generally  fidl  of  natives,  bathing 
and  disporting  themselves  in  the  water  with  great  enjoyment. 

262 


Bujuku  Valley. — Eeturn  of  the  Ex]iedition. 

Dr.  Cavalli  found  plenty  of  occupation,  and  was  busy  for 
several  hours  every  day  with  the  sick  people  who  came  from 
far  and  near,  supported  or  carried  with  loving  care  bv  their 
relations  or  friends.  While  undergoing  trifling  operations  they 
would  scream  and  weep,  and  immediately  after  laugh  like 
children. 

Commander  Cao^ni  undertook  a  series  of  maonetic  observa- 
tions.  Dr.  Roccati  made  ijeoloo^ical  and  mineraloo^ical  excursions 
in  the  neighbourhood.  One  of  these  took  him  to  the  little 
lake  above  Nakitawa  where  the  Mahoma  Valley  opens  into 
the  Mobuku  Valley.  This  lakelet  had  been  observed  by 
Moore,  Johnston,  Dawe,  etc.  Mr.  Freshfield  calls  it  Lake 
Kobokora,  but  from  all  accounts  it  would  seem  that  no  one 
had  yet  actually  reached  it.  To  arrive  thither  from  Nakitawa, 
Roccati  had  to  pass  through  virgin  forest  without  any  track, 
while  the  Bakonjos  cut  the  way  with  axes  through  bamboos, 
lianas  and  heaths.  There  were  moraine  ridges  to  cross,  through 
an  midergrowth  so  dense  that  in  many  places  they  actually 
walked  upon  the  thickets,  on  an  elastic  cushion  of  branches  and 
twigs  several  feet  deep.  Now  and  again,  one  of  the  Bakonjo 
guides  would  climb  a  tree  to  get  his  bearings. 

Near  to  a  fallen  trunk  they  found  traces  of  an  old  camp 
fire,  a  bit  of  newspaper  and  a  sardine  tin,  no  doubtful  sign  of 
the  passage  of  a  preceding  explorer,  possibly  Dr.  WoUaston  or 
some  other  member  of  the  British  Museum  Expedition.  From 
this  point  they  reached  the  lakelet  in  one  hour.  It  is  plainly 
a  glacial  lake,  oval  in  .shape,  and  miming  from  south-east  to 
north-west,  with  steep  shores  and  surrounded  by  a  narrow  strip 
of  nnul,  beyond  which  the  deep  water  begins  at  once.  There 
was  fog  round  about,  and  complete  silence,  with  no  sign  of 
animal    life.        Dr.     Roccati    collected     plants     and    zoological 

263 


Chapter  X. 

spucinieus  from  tlu-  iiiiul  on  the  hanks.  Laurent  Petiyax  and 
Broclierel  returned  later  to  the  lake  and  were  able  to  confirm 
the  oljservation   that   it   has  normally  no  emissaries. 

While  tlie  members  oi'  the  expedition  were  thus  occupied  at 
Ibanda,  the  Duke  of  the  Al)ruzzi  was  completing  the  exploration 
of  the  mountains.  He  had  left  Bujongolo  on  the  morning  of 
the  13th  of  July  with  the  guides  Joseph  Petigax,  Oilier,  a  native 
soldier,  a  boy,  and  seventeen  native  porters  including  the  guide, 
a  fine  old  man  of  fifty  years.  At  the  Freshfield  Pass  he  was 
joined  by  Sella  and  Botta,  and  they  proceeded  together  as  far 
as  Camp  III  at  the  foot  of  the  western  slopes  of  Mt.  Baker. 

The  valley  of  the  lakes,  which  they  had  so  often  traversed 
in  rain  and  fog,  now,  on  this  fine  clear  day,  seemed  to  ofter 
an  entirely  new  prospect.  The  sun,  however,  seems  almost  to 
strike  a  false  note  in  tlie  dense  and  melancholy  forest  of  senecios. 
The  helichrysums  seem  like  skeleton  flowers,  and  the  scene  is 
grim,  sad,  lifeless  and  brooded  over  by  an  oppi'essive  silence. 

On  the  following  day,  after  a  clear  sunrise,  the  air  again 
grew  dark  with  mists.  They  climbed  to  the  Scott  Elliot  Pass 
by  the  well-known  way  and  set  forth  down  along  the  gully 
towards  the  Bujnku  Vallev.  Those  who  went  ahead  were  in 
incessant  danger  of  being  hit  bv  the  stones  which  the  numerous 
party  of  natives  kept  rolling  down,  in  spite  of  all  precautions. 

From  the  foot  of  the  gully,  in  a  very  short  space  of  time, 
after  crossing  the  grotesque  forest  of  senecio  mingled  \\ith 
clumps  of  everlasting  flowers,  and  interrupted  at  one  point 
by  a  brief  marshy  tract  covered  with  reeds,  they  reached 
the  shores  of  Lake  Bujuku  (12,855  feet),  a  splendid  sheet 
of  calm  water  upon  which  they  saw  a  few  duck.  The 
view  of  the  peaks  of  Mt.  Stanley  and  Mt.  Baker  towering  above 
them    with   their   grim    precipices  was,   beyond   all   comparison, 

264 


LAKE  BUJUKU  AND  MOUNT  STANLEY 


Bujuku  Valley. — Return  of  the  Expedition. 

grander  than  the  mountain  scenery  at  the  head  of  the  Mobuku 
Valley. 

They  soon  discovered,  among  the  mosses  and  reeds  on  tlie 
shore  of  the  lake,  the  track  prepared  for  them  by  the  Bakonjo 
natives  across  the  gently  sloping  plain  of  the  upper  valley. 
This  plain  ends  in  a  gorge  formed  by  spurs  which  run 
down  from  the  Moore   Peak  of  Mt.  Baker  and   the  Johnston 


THE  Kr.rtKr  vai.i.ev. 
Peak  of  Mt.  Speke.      Here  there  is  a  short,  steep  barrier,  similar 
in  every  respect  to  those  which  intersect  the  Mobuku  Valley. 
They  now  had  a  sight  of  the  first  heaths  (12,297  feet),  mingled 
with  a  few  lobelias,  which  were  nearly  all  dead. 

Makino-   their  wav  down,  now  on   the  right  liand  and   now 
on  the  left  of  the  torrent,  they  reached  a  second  plain,  after 

265 


Chapter  X. 

wliicli  the  valley  again  narrows  into  a  gorge  formed  by  the  north- 
ward prolongation  of  tlie  spin-  on  whose  southern  extremity  rises 
the  Cagni  Peak.  This  spur  runs  so  far  across  the  valley  as 
almost  to  meet  the  long  and  considerable  buttress  which 
stretches  from  Mt.  Speke  eastward  and  forms  so  far  the  northern 
or  left  wall  of  the  valley.  Upon  the  ridge  of  this  sjnu'  of 
Mt.  Speke  stands  the  extraordinary  monolith  of  rock,  with 
regular  and  architectural  lines,  which  had  been  one  of  the  first 
features  noticed  by  them  in  the  ascents  of  Mt.   Baker. 

The  way  leads  down  the  right  side  of  the  gorge,  which 
is  clothed  at  the  bottom  with  a  dense  forest  of  heaths,  which 
would  have  caused  them  to  waste  a  good  deal  of  time  had 
a  track  not  been  already  cut.  They  came  out  of  tliis  gorge 
upon  a  third  plain  of  more  ample  dimensions,  into  which  open 
several  tributary  valleys  from  the  north.  One  of  these  runs 
up  to  the  north-west  behind  the  east  spur  of  Mt.  Speke,. 
and  at  its  head  forms  the  narrow  gorge  between  Mt.  Emin 
and  Mt.  Gessi.  This  is  the  Migusi  Valley.  Two  more 
valleys,  divided  by  a  minor  ridge,  are  traversed  by  the 
torrent  Kurungu,  which  springs  from  a  little  lake  fed  by 
the  lolanda  Glacier  of  Mt.  Gessi,  and  tlie  Waigga  which 
also  flows  from  a  lake  at  the  foot  of  the  North  Portal. 

On  reaching  this  plain,  they  encamped  in  a  suitable 
place  (11,503  feet),  near  a  sheltering  rock  at  the  foot  of  a 
spur  on  the  right  side  of  the  valley  in  a  clearing  of  the  forest 
all  full  of  blossoming  helichrysum.  The  spot  was  lovely,  the 
slopes  of  the  valley  clad  with  dense  forest,  while  before  them 
towered  up  the  rocky  peaks  of  the  North  Portal. 

This  Camp,  marked  No.  IX  on  tlie  map,  was  their  starting 
point  for  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Gessi,  the  last  mountain  still 
left  unclimbed. 

266 


Biijiiku  Valley. — Return  of  the  Expedition. 

On  the  iiiorning  of  the  15th,  tlie  Duke,  with  two  guides  and 
a  few  native  porters  crossed  the  plain  to  the  north,  steerino- 
towards  a  depression  on  the  ridge  to  the  north  of  the  vallev 
which  runs  down  from  Mt.  Speke.      This  depression  he  reached 


CAMP    IX,    BUJlKr    VAI-LEY. 

by  ascending  up  a  small  lateral  valley  skirting  the  side  in  order 
to  avoid  the  dense  brush.  From  the  ridge  they  went  down  into 
the  Migusi  Valley  and  followed  for  some  distance  the  tracks  of  a 
leopard,  which  liad  made  its  way  through  tlie  thickets. 

267 


Cl)ai)ter  A. 

The  Miii'usi  Valley  is  uIko  formed  of  a  series  of  successive 
terraces.  They  ascended  tirst  one  rise  and  then  another,  and 
finally  reached  a  slightly  inclined  plain  leading  to  the  head 
of  tlie  valley  where  the  narrow  gorge  between  Mts.  Eniin 
and  Gessi  begins.  They  skirted  the  plain  and  ascended  the 
right  slope  of  the  valley  to  a  point  not  far  from  the  end 
of  the  lolanda  Glacier.  All  of  the  Bakonjo  were  marching 
remarkably  well.  Tlie  liardest  work  was  for  the  guides,  who 
had  to  cut  a  patli  through  the  dense  thickets  of 
brush. 

Camp  X  (13,GG8  feet)  was  set  up  close  to  the  ancient 
moraine,  only  a  few  hundred  yai'ds  from  the  present  face  of 
the  glacier,  which  ends  in  broken  sdracs  on  the  })row  of  a  clift'. 
The  senecios  and  helichrysums  climb  up  a  little  higher  than 
the  point  where  the  camp  was  fixed.  The  view  from  this 
high  level  over  the  great  amphitheatre  of  mountains  is  one 
of  the  finest  panoramas  of  the  whole  Ruwenzori  range. 

(-)n  the  mornino;'  of  the  1 6th  there  was  hard  frost  all  around 
the  camp.  The  start  was  made  before  daybreak.  First  they 
ascended  a  gully  overhung  by  the  terminal  seracs  of  the 
lolanda  Glacier.  Tlien  they  crossed  the  rocks  to  the  right 
of  the  gully  and  reached  the  snow,  and  then  the  south-east 
ridge  of  the  mountain.  At  6.30  a.m.,  the  Duke  set  foot 
upon  the  rocky  summit  of  the  lolanda  Peak  (15,647  feet). 
Tlie  rope  had  not  been  used  in  the  ascent.  Oilier  began  at  once 
to  build  a  monmnental  stone  man. 

The  weather  had  been  threatening  when  they  set  forth,  Init 
liad  now  liecome  quite  clear,  and  the  view  of  the  mountains  was 
complete  in  e^•ery  detail,  so  tliat  the  Duke  was  able  to  make  one 
more  photographic  panorama  of  the  entire  range.  In  this  way 
the   whole   chain   was  photographed  in   panoramas   taken   from 

268 


P'lNOKAMA    TAKEN  FROM  yOLANPA   PEAK.   MOUNT  CESS/ 


Bujuku  Vallev. — licturn  of  the  Expedition. 

either  extremity  of  the  irregular  semi-circle  which  forms  its 
main  contour,  i.e.,  from  Stairs  Peak  of  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia, 
and  from  the  lolanda  Peak  of  Mt.  Gessi.  In  addition  to  these 
we  have  a  panorama  taken  from  the  Edward  Peak,*  and 
another  from  Grauer's  Rock.  Before  them,  at  a  short  distance, 
stood  the  jagged  rock  ridge  of  Mt.  Eniin.  To  the  south  of 
Mt.  Emin  came  Mt.  Speke  with  the  great  Vittorio  Emanuele 


MT.    CIESSI    FROM     THE   ElAVAKP   PEAK    OF   .MT.    ]UKER. 


Glacier,  which  is  Ijetter  seen  from  Mt.  Gessi  than  from  any- 
other  point.  Behind  this  glacier  towers  the  terminal  ridge  of 
Margherita  Peak,  showing  its  ample  north-west  shoulder. 
Further  south  tlie  whole  of  Mt.  Baker  is  visible,  with  its 
wild  precipice  descending  straight  to  the  Bujuku  Valley.     To 

*  Not  reprudnccd  in   this  work. 
269 


Chapter  X. 

the  east  of  Mt.  Baker,  tlie  Cagiii  Peak  is  visible  behind  a 
whole  series  of  spurs. 

Mt.  Gessi  joins  the  North  Portal  to  the  south-east  by  u 
long  ridge.  To  all  appearances  the  watershed  ridge  proceeds 
from  the  North  Portal  along  a  series  of  ridges  in  a  north- 
easterly direction,  so  that  the  water  which  collects  on  the 
eastern  slopes  of  Mt.  Gessi  would  flow  ultimately  into  the 
Semliki  Valley. 

The  Duke  stopped  a  long  time  on  the  summit,  so  as  to  enjoy 
a  last  view  of  this  splendid  display  of  mountains  and  glaciers, 
which  had  no  longer  any  secrets.  Next,  following  the  snow 
ridge,  he  ascended  Bottego  Peak,  which  is  164  feet  below 
lolanda  Peak,  in  half  an  hour.  The  panorama  is  much  the 
same.  A  little  lake  was  visible  in  a  narrow  valley  which 
runs  down  to  the  north  of  the  Cavalli  Pass  between  Mt.  Gessi 
and  Mt.  Emin. 

From  the  north-east  and  north  sides  of  Mt.  Emin  three 
little  glaciers  flow  down.  The  whole  west  side  of  Mt.  Gessi  is 
taken  up  by  a  glacier,  while  the  east  side  is  naked  rock. 

They  returned  by  the  same  route,  except  that  on  reaching 
the  gully  they  kept  along  its  side  instead  of  following  the 
bottom,  in  order  to  avoid  the  danger  of  avalanches  from  the 
seracs  of  lolanda  Glacier.  Before  midday  they  once  niore 
reached  the  tent  which  they  had  left  in  the  morning.  After 
a  brief  halt  they  set  forth  again,  and  came  rapidly  down  to 
Camp  IX  in  the  Bujuku  Valley. 

During  the  whole  exciu'sion  the  strange  monolith  upon  the 
spur  which  divided  the  Bujuku  Valley  from  the  Migusi  Valley 
had  always  been  in  sight.  Sella  was  so  attracted  by  its  strange 
appearance  that  he  had  given  up  accompanying  the  Prince  up 
Mt.  Gessi  on  purpose  to  examine  it  more  closely. 

270 


THE   BUJUKU   TORRENT. 


Bujuku  Valley. — Pteturn  of  the  Expedition. 

He  set  out  with  Botta  on  the  morning  of  the  loth,  and 
coming  l)ack  to  the  second  terrace  of  the  valley  proceeded  to 
ascend  the  spur  to  the  north,  among  giant  heaths  and  shrubs 
of  everlasting  flower,  over   extremely  broken  gromid,  skirting 


GIANT   TREE    IN    THE    l.i  IWEK    BUJUKU   VAI.I.KY. 

huge  blocks,  climbing  upon  fallen  tree  trunks  covered  \\itli 
moss  and  concealing  deep  holes.  The  fog  surrounded  them 
before  they  had  reached  a  point  sufflcieiitly  high  to  get  a 
clear  view  of  the   monolith. 


273 


Chapter  X. 

On  the  following  day  they  were  able  to  approach  much 
nearer.  Here  a  disappointment  awaited  Sella,  for  the  monolith 
proved  to  be  a  very  commonplace  pinnacle  of  rock  which  had 
received  from  its  isolated  position  on  a  ridge  an  appearance 
of  being  much  more  grand  than  was  actually  the  case.  He 
came  back  to  Camp  IX  by  night,  a  few  hours  later  than 
the  Duke. 

On  the  17th  they  proceeded  to  descend  the  valley  under 
a   clouded   sky   but   without   rain    or    fog.       They  crossed    the 


IBANDA. 


terrace  which  forms  the  meeting  point  of  the  Bujuku,  Migusi 
and  Kurungu  Valleys.  This  is  probably  an  ancient  lake 
bottom,  and  is  now  completely  covered  with  reeds.  They 
skirted  its  left  slope  on  uneven  ground  scattered  with  little 
grassy  hillocks.  They  now  reached  the  third  rise  followed 
by  a  long  gorge  running  between  the  two  South  Portals. 

274 


Bnjuku  Vallev.— Pietiirn  of  the  Expedition. 

Here  the  valley  bends  slightly  soutliward  and  the  descent 
becomes  steeper.  They  followed  the  left  side  of  the  river, 
which  falls  in  rapids  and  noisy  cataracts.  A  little  below  the 
plain  the  senecios  come  to  an  end,  but  the  lobelias  continue 
(Stuhlmanni  and  Deckenni). 

After  crossing  the  Manureggio,  which  is  a  tributary  of  the 
Bujuku  and  flows  into  it  from  the  left,  thev  entered  a  region  of 


BAGAXDA    Vn.I-AGE. 


giant  grass  which  grows  like  a  bed  of  reeds  between  the  heaths, 
and  covers  on  every  side  the  steep  declivities  dotted  with  huge, 
boulders  and  intersected  by  a  mass  of  little  irregular  gorges. 

The  natives  had  made  a  path  by  simply  trampling  down  the 
long  thick  stalks,  which  form  an  elastic  surface  where  you  slip, 
sink  in,  and  stumble  at  every  step. 

Camp  XI  (9,547  feet)  was  placed  below  the  gorge  of  the 
Portals.       Thev  now   found  themselves  once  more  in  the  true 


no 


T   2 


Chapter  X. 

forest  among  huge  trees,  fine  podocarpiis,  entwined  with  lianas 
and  ])anib(H)  thickets.  There  were  no  more  senecio  nor  lobeHa. 
Troo}).s  of  monkeys  disported  themselves  in  the  branches,  and 
the  air  was  full  of  the  song  of  birds. 

In  the  eveninc  it  beean  to  rain  for  the  first  time  after  ten 
days  of  dry  weather.      It  was  the  only  considerable  period  of 


k. 

■iiii-riTi^Tii-'""itT"i~- 

m 

idHK 

-jitf 

■nm^. 

-^ 

wP 

•  tik 

•"  '   "it; 

i>^3*..:  - 

^ 

1 

. 

Li. 

**«?;.rf " 

' 

^^H^^H^^ 

1 

J 

^^^^^^^Hk 

1 

■ 

r^i'  F# 

-.^^^m-' 

■  ^ 

If^W^PS^ 

iP 

CR.VTEIt    LAKE    KAIT.VB.iKOOA,    NEAR   FORT   TORTAL. 

good    weather   that   the   expedition   bad  met   with   among   the 
mountains. 

On  the  following  day  they  descended  by  a  path  which  grew 
better  and  better,  keeping  upon  the  left  bank  of  the  stream. 
On  reaching  the  bottom  of  the  valley  they  tm-ned  southward, 
traversing  the  Bujuku  and  a  small  affluent,  and  made  straight 
for  the  Mobuku  where  they  found  a  rougb  bridge  of  bamboos. 

276 


Bujuku  Valley.— Return  of  the  Expedition. 

Soon  after  they  reached  the  familiar  track  down  the  Moljuku 
Valley  and  elimhed  the  moraine  of  Nakitawa.  Two  honrs  more 
brought  them  to  Bihunga  and  two  more  to  Il)an(la,  where  the 
A^-hole  expedition  was  now  assembled. 

The  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi  had  now  fnlfiUed  the  task  which 
he  had   undertaken  ;  his  untiring  energy,  seconded  by  the  zeal 


BACK   AGAIN    OX   THE   SHORES    OK   LAKE   VICTORIA. 


and    ability  of   his    companions,    had    lauught    the    exploration 
of  Ruwenzori  to  completion. 

I  have  put  together  in  tabular  form  a  list  of  all  the  ascents 
of  the  Ruwenzori  Peaks  made  by  the  members  of  the  Italian 
expedition  between  the  lOtliof  June  and  the  16th  of  July.  This 
table  shows  the  mountaineering  work  done  Ijy  the  expedition. 


Chapter  >^. 


Table  of  Ascents  in  the  Ruwenzori  Range  made  isv  the  Expedition 
OF  H.R.H.  the  Dike  of  the  Abruzzi  in  the  ^Ionths  of  June  and 
Jdly,  1906. 


Mounlain. 

Peak. 

Height 

above 

sea-level. 

Date. 

By  whom  climbed. 

Route  followed. 

Stanley 

Margherita 

16,815 

June  18 

H.R.H.  the  Duke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Guides:  J.  Peti- 
gax,        Oilier, 
and  Brocherel 

From  the  col 
between  Alex- 
a  n  d  r  a  and 
Margherita 
Peaks. 

Alexandra  . . . 

16,749 

June  18 
June  20 

H.R.H.  the  Duke 

of  the  Abruzzi 

Gtiides :  J.  Peti- 

gax,        Oilier, 

and  Brocherel 

H.R.H.  the  Duke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

By  the  Eastern 
Ridge. 

June  22 

U.    Cagni     and 
A.  Cavalli 

)) 

June  26 

V.  Sella 

)) 

June  27 

V.     Sella     and 
A.  Roccati 

)) 

Elena 

16,388 

June  20 

H.R.H.theDuke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

C4uides:  J.  Peti- 
gax.        Oilier, 
and  Brocherel 

By  an  Eastern 
Gully. 

Moebius     . . . 

June  25 

Y.     Sella     and 
A.  Roccati 

Guides :        Bro- 
cherel and  Botta 

By  the  Eastern 
Ridge. 

Savoia 

16,339 

June  20 

H.RH.theDuke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Guides:  J.  Peti- 
gax,  Oilier  and 
Brocherel 

Traversed. 

The  mouiitaiDB  are  given  in  order  of  height.     Guides  are  mentioned  in  first  ascents  only. 

278 


Bujuku  Valley.— Ketnrn  of  the  Expedition. 

Table  of  Ascext.s  ix  the  KnvENZORi  Range  made  by  the  Expedition 
OF  H.R.H.  THE  Dike  of  the  Abruzzi,  in  the  months  of  June  and 
Ji-LY,   l^OQ— continued. 


Moiintaii 


Peak. 


Height 
above 


Date 


Uy  whom  climbed.        Route  followed. 


1 

sea-ievei. 

Speke  ... 

Vittorio 
Elmanuele; 

16,080 

June  2.3 

H.R.H.  the  Duke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

C4uides:  J.  Peti- 
gax  and  Oilier 

From  the  West. 

Johnston    . . . 

1.0,906 

— 

Not  climbed. 

Baker  ... 

Edward 

15,988 

June  10 

H.R.H.theDuke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Guides:  J.  Peti- 
gax.        Oilier, 
and  Broeherel 

From  Grauer 
Col. 

July     2 
July    5 

V.  Sella 

H.R.H.theDuke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

From  Fresh- 
fifld  Col. 

July    7 

H.R.H.theDuke 
of  the  Aliruzzi 

)) 

July  11 

V.  Sella 

„ 

Semper 

15,843 

June  10 

H.R.H.theDuke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Guides:  J.  Peti- 
gax,        Oilier, 
and  Broeherel 

From  Grauer 
Col. 

Wollastoii  ... 

15,286 

July  10 

H.R.H.theDuke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Guides :     Oilier 
and  L.  Petigax 

By  a  Western 
Gully  and  the 
South  Ridge. 

Moore 

15,269 

June  12 

V.  Sella 

Guides :       Bro-  i 

cherel         and 

Botta 

From-  Grauer 
Col.    " 

July  10 

H.R.H.theDuke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Traversed. 

The  mountains  are  given  in  order  of  height.     Guides  are  mentioned  in  first  ascents  only. 

279 


Cliai)ter  X. 


Table  of  Ascents  in  the  Eovenzori  Range  made  by  the  Expedition 
OF  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  thf.  Abruzzi,  in  the  months  of  June  and 
July,   1 906 — eontimted. 


Mountain. 

Peak. 

Height 

above 
sea-level. 

Date. 

Bv  whom  clinxhi.'rl. 

Eoute  followed. 

Emin    . . . 

Umberto    . . . 

15,797 

June  28 

H.R.H.  theDuke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Guides :  J.  Peti- 
gax,    L.    Peti- 
gax  and  Oilier 

By  the  South- 
West  Ridge. 

Kraepelin  ... 

15,752 

— 

Not  climlied. 

Gessi    ... 

lolanda 

15,647 

July  16 

H.R.H.  theDuke 
of  the  AViruzzi 

Guides  :  J.  Peti- 
gax  and  Oilier 

Traversed. 

Bottego 

15,483 

July  16 

H.R.H.  the  Duke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

Guides :  J.  Peti- 
gax  and  Oilier 

Bv  the  South 
Ridge. 

Luigi   di 
Savoia 

Weismann... 
Sella 

15,299 
15,286 

July     4 

Not  climbed. 

V.  Sella 
Guides :       Bro- 

eherel          and 

Botta 

By  a  W.  Gully 
and  the  North 
Ridge. 

Stairs 

15,059 

June  19 

V.     Sella     and 
A.        Roccati, 
without  guides 

Bv  the  Western 
Ridge. 

July    8 

H.R.H.  theDuke 
of  the  Abruzzi 

July  12 

V.  Sella 

Cagni    . . . 

14,826 

July     8 
July     9 

U.  Cagni          ...    By  the  Northern 
Guides  :  J.  Peti-       Ridge. 

gax   and    Bro- 

cherel 

U.  Cagni 

The  mountains  are  given  in  order  of  height.     Guides  are  mentioned  in  first  ascents  only. 

280 


Bnjuku  Valley. — Iveturn  of  the  Expedition. 

It  took  the  expedition  two  days  to  reach  Fort  Portal 
from  Ibanda.  Ruwenzori  was  again  enveloped  in  its  usual 
impenetrable  veil  of  clouds  and  mists  and  they  saw  it  no 
more.  They  were  now  again  in  the  suffocating  heat  of  the 
plain,  among  the  noisy  crowd  of  porters  and  the  familiar 
scenes  of  native  villages  with  their  plantain  groves,  and 
again  received  at  each  stage  by  the  chieftains  with  all  the 
ceremonial  of  African  etiquette. 

At  Fort  Portal  the  English  officials,  King  Kasagama 
with  his  court,  and  the  missionaries  rivalled  one  another  in 
hospitality  and  courtesy  toward  H.RH.  and  his  companions. 

While  they  were  here,  Roccati  went  with  Sella  iipon  a 
geological  and  photographic  excursion  to  the  craters  and  the 
crater  lakes  of  the  volcanic  region  of  Toro.  The  shores  of 
these  lakes  are  covered  with  a  dense  vegetation  of  palms, 
dracenas,  and  euphorbia,  which  are  mirrored  in  the  water, 
while  the  water  itself,  the  air  and  the  wood  swarm  with  an 
incredibly  rich  animal  life,  protected,  perhaps,  by  the  super- 
stition which  causes  the  natives  to  shun  these  craters  as  haunts 
of  wizards  and  of  evil  spirits. 

In  the  meantime,  the  Duke  with  Cagni  and  CavaUi,  joined 
later  by  Sella,  made  some  shooting  excursions. 

It  was  now  the  dry  and  less  favourable  season.  It  was 
impossible  to  penetrate  the  dense  grasses  which  formed  walls 
on  either  .side  of  the  paths  and  hid  the  surrounding  country. 
Every  night  roinid  Fort  Portal  the  district  was  lit  up  with 
the  red  glare  of  the  fires,  which  burned  miles  and  miles  of 
dry  grass. 

In  the  beainnino-  of  August  the  time  came  for  their 
departure.  Messrs.  Knowles  and  Haldane  accompanied  them 
from    Fort    Portal.       Notwithstanding    the    frequent    storms, 

281 


Chapter  X. 

there  were  field  fires  in  every  direction,  which  even  became 
a  source  of  danger  tt)  tlie  camjis  when  the  wind  blew  that 
way.  AVliole  districts  were  qiiite  bare  and  covered  with 
ashes. 

On  the  7th  of  August,  the  expedition  crossed  the  frontier 
between  Tore  and  Uganda.  Here  it  was  met  by  Major 
Wyndham.  The  native  porters  seemed  very  impatient  to 
get  home  and  marched  fast  with  few  halts.  The  stages  were 
difterently  distributed  and  the  camps  were  set  up  in  places 
where  they  liad  not  stopped  on  the  journey  up. 

A  halt  was  made  at  Byndia,  as  previously  at  Kichiomi  in 
the  Kingdom  of  Toro,  foi'  the  purpose  of  making  a  seiies  of 
magnetic  observations. 

On  the  14th  of  August,  they  at  last  reached  the  shores  of 
Lake  Victoria.  The  discipline  of  the  caravan  had  become 
somewhat  relaxed  during  the  last  days,  and  at  every  moment 
there  were  rows,  disputes,  and  quarrels  between  the  porters. 

They  had  chosen  a  more  direct  route  to  return,  and  reached 
the  banks  of  the  lake  just  opposite  the  exti'eme  end  of  the 
peninsula  upon  which  Entebbe  is  situated.  Here  native  canoes 
were  ready  in  suflicient  numbers  to  carry  the  whole  party. 

While  the  boats  were  being  prepared  and  loaded,  they 
lunched  upon  the  bank  of  the  lake  in  the  shade  of  lofty 
trees.     They  reached  Entebbe  in  the  early  afternoon. 

After  a  week  spent  in  packing  the  luggage  which  was  to 
be  carried  back  to  Italy,  and  during  which  time  they  were 
entertained  with  the  greatest  hospitality  and  kindness  by  all 
the  European  residents,  the  expedition  left  Entebbe,  with  its 
crowd  of  islands  and  its  flowery  shores,  upon  tlie  steamer 
Sibyl. 

They  stopped  at  Jinja  to  visit  the  famous  Ripon  Falls,  which 


o 


Bujuku  Valley. — Return  of  the  Expedition. 

form  the  origin  of  tlie  Victoria  Nile.  Here  they  made  an 
excursion  in  long  native  canoes  upon  the  dark  green  waters  of 
the  river  swarming  with  birds.  On  tlie  24th  they  reached 
Port  Florence,  and  left  the  same  day  by  train. 

On  the  28th  of  August  the  Italian  expedition  left  African 
soil  upon  the  steamer  Natal  of  the  French  Messao-eries. 

Five  mouths  later,  before  a  largely  attended  meeting  of 
the  Eoyal  Geographical  Society,  honoured  by  the  presence  of 
H.M.  King  Edward  VII.,  H.R.H.  tlie  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi 
gave  an  account  of  liis  discoveries,  denionstratiug  that  lie  had 


HEAD   OY   THE    VICTOltlA    NILE. 


brought  about  the  realization  of  the  wish  expressed  five  years 
before  by  Sir  Henry  M.  Stanley  before  the  same  Society  :  "  The 
dear  wish  that  some  person  devoted  to  his  work,  some  lover  of 
Alpine  climbing,  would  take  Ruwenzori  in  hand  and  make  a 
thorough  work  of  it,  explore  it  from  top  to  bottom,  througli  all 
those  enormous  defiles  and  those  deep  gorges." 

Alas  !  the  great  explorer  died  two  years  and  a-half  ago,  and 
never  saw  his  wish  fulfilled. 

28.5 


Acldenduni. 


[This  book  Wcis  already  in  print  when  Mr.  A.  F.  R.  Wollaston 
brought  out  his  valuable  book  ("  From  Ruwenzoi'i  to  the 
Congo,"  London,  John  Murray,  published  in  September,  1908), 
in  which,  among  other  matters,  he  describes  his  climbs  in  the 
Ruwenzori  chain.  I  have  already  dealt  with  his  interesting- 
mountaineering  work  in  Chapters  I  and  YII,  in  my  sketch  of 
the  history  of  the  exploration  of  Ruwenzori  before  H.R.H.  the 
Duke  of  the  Abruzzi.] 


286 


The  Appendices  have  been  translated  by  Prof.  A.  H.  Keane, 

LL.D.,  F.R.G.s/ 


APPENDIX    A. 


Dk.  luigi  hugues. 


THE     MOUNTAINS     OF     THE     MOON     OF 

PTOLE.AIY'S    GEOGRAPHY    AND    THE 

RUWENZORI    R.ANGE. 


THE    MOUNTAINS    OF    THE   MOON    OF    PTOLEMY'S 
GEOGRAPHY  AND  THE  PtUWENZORI  RANGE. 


Ix  Chuiiliiis  Ptolumy's  (ieogniphy  (liook  IV, 
chap.  S)  we  read  :is  follows :  "  At  the 
southern  latitude  of  12'  30',  and  between 
the  longitudes  of  57'  and  67  ,  there  rises  the 
-Mountain  of  the  Moon,  whose  snows  feed  the 
lakes,  sources  of  the  Nile." 

As  >nider  the  latitude  specified  by  the 
(ieographer  thei'c  is  no  high  land  in  equatorial 
Africa  that  is  elevated  enough  to  l)e  described 
as  snowy,  and  still  less  as  rising  aliove  the 
line  of  perpetual  snows,  and  as,  moreover, 
a  latitude  lying  so  far  to  the  south  would 
place  such  a  high  land  quite  beyond  the 
upper  liasin  of  the  Nile,  the  suspicion  is  not 
withi)\it  justification  that  si'veral  geographers  have  rai.sed  that  the  mention  of 
the  Mountain  (or  of  the  Mountains)  of  the  Moon  does  not  come  directly  from 
Ptolemy,  but  is  an  interpolation  foisted  into  his  Geography  by  some  Arali 
writer.  This  view  is  held  by  Cooley,  who,  in  his  Ptuhunij  audthi'  XUe,  published 
in  1S.")4,  thus  cxiH'esses  himself:  "Ptolemy  is  a  very  methodical  wiitci',  and 
divides  his  IJeography  into  chapters,  each  describing  some  natural  zone  or 
region,  and  containing  coiuiected  information.  Had  he  known  that  the  lakes 
of  the  Nile  were  fillcil  from  the  snows  of  mountains  further  south,  he  would,  in 
conformity  with  his  general  method,  have  included  these  ultimate  sources  in  his 
account  of  the  rivei'.  Now  the  .Mountains  of  the  Moon  are  not  mentioned  in 
the  chapter  which  treats  of  the  Nile  ('),  l)ut  in  a  separate  and,  as  it  were, 
supplementary  chapter,  containing  matters  avowedly  obscure  and  little  known, 
and  even  there  they  are  mentioned  not  directly,  but  in  an  oblique  manner,  and 
with  a  very  suspicious  gloss."  (-) 


Note. — The  iij;iuvs  in  brackets  in  tlu'  ti'xt  ivtVi'  to  tin 
tluL-  Appendix. 


uoters  printed   at  the  euil  nf 


289 


Appendix    A. 

Dr.  Heiiiiich  Kiepert  also  appeals  to  accept  the  same  view  where  he  writes 
ill  his  Tiviitis)'  (III  Ancifiit  (f'/vi/riijihi/ :  "  The  expression  '  lilue  Mountains 
(Jihel  gomr),  given  liy  the  Arabs  to  those  great  mountain  masses  (Kenia, 
Kilimanjaro  and  others),  seen  only  from  afar,  and  indistinctly,  has  long  lieen 
wrongly  interpreted  in  the  sense  of  '  Mountains  of  the  Moon  '  (Jihel-el-Qamar), 
and  thus  gave  rise  to  the  translation  26\i)i'//v  !./,<,•.■  which  is  given  on  Ptolemy's 
map,  and  to  an  error  which  the  recent  explorations  in  that  region  of  Africa 
have  banished  fi'om  our  maps  and  from  our  books."  (■')  "  The  strange  name  of 
Mountains  of  the  Moon,"  says  Prof.  Alfred  Kirchhofl",  "  is  due  probably  to  an 
interchange  of  two  Arab  terms  or  to  the  twofohl  meaning  of  one  and  the  same 
term."  (*)  And,  in  fact,  the  Arab  writer  el-Nowairi,  quoted  by  Masudi,  asserts 
that  Kamar  (read  Qamar)  means  both  modii  and  irliih'.  And  in  this  connection 
it  will  not  be  beside  the  question  to  note  that  Aristotle  had  already  placed  the 
sources  of  the  Nile  in  a  '  Silver  Mountain  '  {'Aftyvpeo^  opof).  {^)  This  Silver 
Moimtain  has  a  striking  analogy  with  the  White  ^lountain  of  the  mediifval 
Arab  writers,  an  analogy  which  suggests  some  important  and  sensible  reflections 
to  Vivien  de  Saint-Martin.  ('') 

If  the  mention  of  the  Mountains  of  the  .Moon,  or  else  of  the  \\'hite 
Mountains  (?)  is  of  Arab  origin,  which,  liesides  the  stated  reasons,  might  also  be 
shown  to  be  probal)le  from  the  fact  that  no  allusion  to  that  lofty  range  is  made 
in  the  edition  of  Ptolemy's  Geography  issued  by  Donis  in  14)^2,  (")  the  latitude 
12"  30'  S.  would  have  been  inserted  in  the  text  to  bring  it  into  accord 
with  the  position  assigned  by  the  Alexandrian  Geographer  to  the  two  lakes, 
sources  of  the  Nile.  And  respecting  these  lakes,  here  is  what  we  gather 
from  the  seventh  chapter  of  Book  IV  : — 

The  western  lake  has  latitude  (south)  6'  and  longitude  ")7'  :  the  eastern  is 
at  latitude  (south)  7  and  longitude  65  .  The  rivers  issuing  from  these  two 
lakes  unite  at  north  latitude  2"  and  under  the  60th  meridian,  and  they  thus 
form  the  chief  branch  of  the  Nile,  which  at  north  latitude  2  and  under  the 
61st  meridian  receives  the  Kiver  Astapus,  emissary  from  Lake  Coloe,  which  lies 
on  the  equinoxial  line  and  under  the  69th  degree  of  longitude. 

It  is  quite  vmderstood  that  the  Ptolemaic  data  referring  to  geographical 
features  are  not  to  be  taken  literally.  The  number  of  astronomic  observations 
at  the  command  of  Ptolemy  was  very  limited  ;  the  results  of  those  few  observa- 
tions, especially  for  the  longitudes,  were  nearly  all  very  far  from  the  actual. 
To  accomplish  the  gigantic  woik  that  he  had  undertaken,  no  better  means 
occurred  to  the  Geographer  than  that  of  reducing  to  astronomic  data  the 
elements — distances  and  directions — derived  from  the  itineraries  both  by  land 
and  water,  or  ali-eady  known  from  previous  works,  amongst  which,  first  and 

290 


The  Ilinvenzoii  Jlange. 

foremost,  wus  that  nf  his  immediate  precursor,  Marinus  of  Tyre,  or  else  those 
gathered  by  himself  from  the  more  or  less  accurate  reports  of  travellers  and 
seafarers.  C*)  All  can  see  how  defective  such  a  method  must  Ite.  From  the 
early  itineraries  traced  without  compass  in  determining  the  directions,  without 
chronometers  for  the  intervals  of  time  and  distiinces,  and  without  sufficient 
knowledge  of  the  marine  and  atmospheric  currents,  it  was  obviously  impossible 
to  obtain  other  than  quite  hypothetic,  and  for  the  most  part  only  roughly 
approximate  results.  ('■')  The  reduction  of  the  route  distances  to  astronomic 
notations  (degrees  and  fractions  of  degrees)  was  made  by  Ptolemy  with  the 
stadium  luiit  e(|uivalent  to  the  500th  part  of  the  equatorial  degree.  ('")  But 
we  know  that  those  routes  were  })ased  on  a  different  unit  of  measure,  namely, 
the  Olympic  stadium  of  600  to  the  equatorial  degree.  Hence,  if  foi'  instance, 
it  was  a  (piestion  of  an  itinerary  of  ^^,000  stadia  (in  the  direction  of  the 
meridian),  the  number  of  corresponding  degrees  woidd  be  5  of  latitude 
according  to  the  Olympic  measure,  while  according  to  Ptolemy  it  came  to  6°. 
And  in  general,  to  olitain  the  true,  or  the  approximately  true,  differences  of 
latitudes  and  longitudes,  we  have  to  multiply  by  ;';  those  given  l)v  the 
Geographer,  or,  which  is  the  same  thing,  reduce  them  by  ^.  At  the  same  time 
this  single  operation  is  very  far  from  sufficing  to  introduce  any  accuracy  into 
the  Ptoleniiuc  tables.  It  cannot  be  asserted  in  the  first  place  that  all  the 
itineraries  without  exception  were  recorded  in  Olymjiic  stadia;  nor  is  the 
possibility  to  be  e.vcluded  that  for  some  of  them  tlie  stadium  of  Eratosthenes 
of  700  to  the  eciuatorial  degree  was  taken  as  the  unit  :  iii  which  case  the 
reduction  should  be  by  ?.  Moreover,  in  a  great  many  cases  there  occur  ernjrs 
of  another  nature,  amongst  wdiich  outstanding  are  those  <lerived  from  llie 
imjierfect  knowledge  possessed  by  the  ancients  of  many  places  and  countries, 
from  the  inevitable  inaccuracies  in  the  calculation  of  distances  and  in 
determining  the  relative  positions,  from  the  windings  of  the  route  followed  and 
so  on.  Despite  of  all  this  it  is  remarkable,  not  to  say  absolutely  astounding, 
that  the  above-mentioned  single  reduction  by  }  suffices  for  the  geographical 
sketch  of  the  Upper  Nile  lands,  such  as  is  drawn  by  Ptolemy's  (ieography,  to 
correspond  broadly  if  not  precisely  with  that  presented  to  us  by  the  modern 
maps.  On  this  no  doubt  quite  casual  coincidence  it  will  not  be  useless  to  dwell 
for  a  moment. 

The  latitude  of  .\lexandria  is  given  by  Ptolemy  as  30  30'  X.  (it  is  really 
31°  P2');  from  Alexandria  to  the  parallel  of  the  eastern  lake  are  therefore 
reckoned  37'  30'  E.  =  37'  E.  Now  the  j  of  37  ')'  are  equivalent  to  3r  25'  = 
31°  15',  and  that  lake  thus  falls  under  0"  45'  south  latitude.  A  similar 
calculation  for  the  western  lake  brings  us  tn  north  latitude  0°  9'.  (")     These 

291  U  2 


Appendix  A. 

latitudes  are  very  closelj^  those  of  the  northern  shores  of  Lakes  Victoria  Nyanza 
and  Albert  Edward. 

I  come  now  to  the  longitudes.  That  of  the  western  lake  (57")  difi'ers 
scarcely  3°  from  the  longitude  of  Alexandria  (60'  according  to  Ptolemy), 
hence  actually  only  2  30'  liy  the  above-mentioned  reduction.  We  have,  there- 
fore, a  result  little  inferior  to  the  reality,  since  the  longitudes  of  Alexandria  and 
of  the  west  side  of  Lake  Albert  Edward  are  relatively  to  the  meridian  of 
Greenwich  30°  and  29°  30'  (both  E.)  respectively,  according  to  Stanley's  map. 
The  longitude  of  the  eastern  lake  is  65°  in  Ptolemy,  as  above  stated.  It  would 
consequently  lie  to  the  east  of  the  meridian  of  Alexandria,  and  at  a  distance 
of  5"  (4"  10')  according  to  the  reduction.  Now  the  mean  longitude  of 
Lake  Victoria  is  33'  15'  E.,  so  that  the  difference  is  only  minus  0°  55'.  Thus 
in  respect  of  the  longitudes  also  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  the  identification  of 
the  two  Ptolemaic  lakes  with  Lakes  Albert  Edward  and  Victoria. 

The  confluence  of  the  two  effluents  is  placed  by  Ptolemy  under  the 
meridian  of  Alexandria  ('-'),  and  in  the  north  latitude  of  2'.  Hence  it 
may  fairly  be  placed  where  the  river  called  the  Somerset  Nile  by  Speke 
enters  Lake  Albert,  from  which  it  soon  again  issues.  Its  latitude  is  little  more 
than  2°  X.,  while  its  longitude  does  not  greatly  exceed  30°  E.  Everything 
might  therefore  be  reconciled  by  accepting  I'tolemy's  figures  without  anv 
serious  modification.  On  the  other  liand,  by  the  process  of  reduction  we  get 
for  the  point  of  confluence  G"  45'  north  latitude.  It  is,  however,  to  be  noted 
that  somewhere  about  this  latitude  the  main  stream  of  the  Nile  begins  to 
traverse  a  marshy  region  watered  by  several  rivers  nearly  parallel  to  it, 
amongst  them  the  Bahr  el-Zaraf,  the  Nam  Eol,  and  others,  and  that  furthei' 
on,  towards  latitude  9"  N.,  the  Bahr  el-Abiad  (White  Nile)  is  joined  both  by 
the  Bahr  el-Ghazal  coming  from  the  west,  and  the  Sol)at  from  the  east.  To 
me  the  hypothesis  does  not  seem  at  all  too  daring  that  precisely  in  this  region 
the  Alexandrian  Geographer  placed  the  confluence  of  the  two  upper  branches, 
on  the  mistaken  assumption  that  one  of  those  rivers  trending  north  was  in  fact 
the  emissary  of  the  eastern  lake,  just  as  for  some  years  after  Speke's  memorable 
expedition  Lake  Baringo  was  supposed  to  be  a  north-eastern  feeder  of  Lake 
Victoria,  and  had  for  its  emissary  the  Asua,  which  is  now  known  to  flow,  not 
to  the  lake  but  straight  to  the  Nile  at  Dufile.  (i^) 

The  almost  perfect  agreement  of  the  results  of  modern  research  with  the 
Ptolemaic  data  regarding  the  geographical  features  of  the  two  lakes,  sources  of 
the  Nile,  is,  I  repeat,  to  be  considered  as  a  mere  coincidence.  Still  the  idea 
entertained  by  the  great  geographer  on  the  general  disposition  of  the  ujjper 
l)asin  of  the  Egyptian  river  was,  broadly  speaking,  correct.     And  this  might 

292 


The   Iiinvenzori  IJanofe 


&^ 


at  first  sight  lie  uxpluiiicd  1)y  adiuittiny  tliat  those  iiijtiiiii.s  alioiit  the  hyilro- 
graphic  relations  might  have  been  gathered  hy  Ptolemy  with  the  helj)  of 
itineraries  made  along  the  valley  of  the  ri\-er  itself  and  generally  in  the 
direction  from  north  to  south.  ('*)  Only,  as  Ptolemy  himself  says,  these 
particulai-s  were  extant,  at  least  in  ])art,  in  tlie  work  of  Mariniis  of  Tyre, 
who  in  his  turn  had  derived  them  fnim  one  of  the  then  recent  reports  of  the 
first  Greek  navigators  of  Kgypt,  who  freiiuented  the  markets  of  East  Africa 
from  Cape  Aromata  to  Gape  Khaptum  ('■'') :  "  After  this  he  (Marinus)  says  that 
in  the  vo\'age  between  the  Aromata  and  Khaj)tuni  promontories  a  certain 
Diogenes  .  .  .  was  in  the  neighliourhood  of  the  Aromata,  driven  ly  the 
northern  winds,  and  having  on  his  right  hand  the  Troglodytica  arrived  in 
five  days  at  the  lakes  where  the  Nile  rises,  these  lakes  being  somewhat  more 
to  the  north  than  Khapta."  ("') 

In  this  the  geographer  of  Tyre  is  contradicted  Ity  Ptolemy,  who  a  little 
further  on  says  :  "  The  lakes  whence  rises  the  Nile  are  not  near  the  sea,  but  far 
more  inland  on  the  Continent."  This  is  an  important  correction  very  jirobaljly 
suggested  to  Ptolemy  liy  the  reports  of  those  Greek  seafarers,  since  the  places 
from  time  to  time  visited  by  them  on  the  east  coast  of  Africa  were  not  only 
important  from  the  commercial  standpoint,  but  also  as  so  many  centres 
whither  fresh  and  numerous  particulars  could  not  fail  to  come  to  hand  about 
the  geographical  and  natural  conditions  of  the  inland  region.s.  Xo  wonder, 
therefore,  if  amongst  those  particulars  was  also  that  most  important  one 
regarding  the  existences  of  two  lak-.'s  ;  and  as  the  eniporiiuu  nf  Khapta,  a 
place  of  great  consequence  and  spoken  of  liy  Ptolemy  as  a  metropolis  {']'(i-t/, 
faj-l>u7ro\fi),  is  placed  liy  him  under  the  latitude  of  7'  S.  ('"),  while,  on  the 
other  hand,  he  was  naturally  iiirliiie<l  to  believe  that  the  two  lakes  lay  due 
west  of  lihapta,  or  nearly  .so,  he  accordingly  gave  to  the  eastern  lake  the  same 
latitude  of  7'  S.  and  to  the  western  6'  vS.  And  I  may  here  remark  that, 
the  position  assigned  by  Ptolemy  to  Khapta  lieing  almost  exact  ("*),  we  may 
consider  this  place  as  a  second  centre  of  observations,  such  as  those  above 
de.scribed  as  having  been  carried  out  for  Alexandria.  Now,  according  to  the 
tables,  the  longitude  of  Khapta  is  71  ,  and  that  of  the  eastern  lake  is 
given  as  65',  the  dift'erence  (6  ilegrees)  being  with  the  leduition  5  ,  ami  that 
is  the  difference  between  the  mean  longituile  of  the  mouth  of  the  Pangani 
(39  )  and  that  of  Lake  Victoria  (33'  15').  The  14  degrees  of  longitude  that 
extend  from  the  western  lake  (longitude  57'  according  to  Ptolemj-)  to  Khapta 
(71)  are  reduced  to  11  W,  and  this  scarcely  exceeds  the  real  ditlerence 
(39 '-29'  30')  by  2'  10'. 

The  almost  identical  restdls  at  which  we  ariive  by  taking  as  centres  of 

293 


AjDpendix  A. 

astroiiomif  studies  the  eity  of  Alexuiidria  aiul  the  oonimeieial  empoiiuin  of 
Khapta,  lead  of  themselves  to  tlie  hj-pothesis  that,  ))esides  the  details  gatliered 
from  the  Greek  seafarers  along  the  east  coast  of  Africa,  the  Alexandrian 
Geographer  also  utilized  the  information  obtained  in  the  valley  of  the  great 
river  itself.  Nor  will  this  assumption  appear  too  liold  if  we  l>ear  in  mind  that 
long  before  the  time  of  Ptolemy,  the  great  Eratosthenes,  speaking  of  the  chief 
branch  of  the  Nile,  expressed  himself  thus  :  "  Two  waterways  fall  into  the 
Nile  :  they  l>oth  come  from  certain  lakes  lying  far  to  the  east  and  enclosing  a 
verv  large  island  known  bj-  the  name  of  Weroe.  One  of  these  waterways, 
called  Astaboras,  forms  the  east  side  of  the  island,  the  other  is  called  Astapus. 
Some  authors,  however,  gi\e  to  the  latter  the  name  of  Astasobas,  and  apply 
the  name  Astapus  to  another  waterway,  which  they  l)ring  from  the  lakes  lying 
in  the  region  of  the  south,  and  regard  it  in  some  way  as  the  main  stream  or 
else  as  the  chief  branch  of  the  Nile,  adding  that  its  periodical  floods  are  due  to 
the  summer  rains."  ('■')  If,  as  seems  beyond  diml>t,  the  Astaboras  is  to  be 
identified  with  the  Atbara,  the  Astasolias  with  the  Bahr  el-Azrek  or  Blue  Nile, 
and  the  Astapus  with  the  White  Nile  or  Bahr  el-Abiad  (main  branch  of  the 
Nile),  Ptolemy  would  have  liut  repeated  on  the  whole  what  three  centuries 
Jiefore  him  had  been  so  well  expressed  bj^  the  Librarian  of  Alexandria,  merely 
adding  on  his  own  part  the  positions — latitude  and  longitude — of  the  two 
lakes  lying  in  the  region  of  the  south,  that  is,  south  of  the  equinoxial  line 
whose  waters  feed  the  chief  artery  of  the  all-important  fluvial  system. 

At  this  point  we  meet  with  an  appaiently  serious  olijection.  According  to 
the  authors  alluded  to  by  Eratosthenes  the  name  Astapus  is  given  to  the 
principal  luaneh  of  the  Nile  flowing  from  the  south,  whereas  Ptolemy  applies  it 
to  an  affluent  of  the  Nile  which,  issuing  from  Lake  Coloe  under  the  ccjuinoxial 
line,  falls  into  the  main  stream  at  latitude  12°  N.  But,  as  above  stated,  the 
objection  is  only  apparent.  Eratosthenes,  speaking  for  himself,  had  already 
given  the  name  of  Astapus  to  the  river  marking  the  west  (and  south-west)  side 
of  the  island  (peninsula)  of  Meroe,  that  is  to  say,  the  Abai  or  Bahr  el-Azrek. 
Ptolem}',  on  his  part,  did  not  think  it  right  to  depart  from  the  opinion  of  his 
predecessor,  and  so  kept  the  name  of  Astapus  for  the  subordinate  river.  It 
might  be  more  important  to  notice  in  the  (Geography  of  the  Alexandrian  two 
errors,  one  of  which  aft'ects  the  Lake  Coloe  (Lake  Tana  or  Tsana  in  the  heart 
of  Abyssinia),  which  he  places  under  the  ccpiinoxial  line.  The  other  mistake 
consists  in  describing  the  Astaboras  as  a  river  which  mingles  its  waters  with  the 
Astapus.  But  an  enquiry  into  all  these  matters,  besides  reqtiiring  too  great  a 
development,  would  be  foreign  to  the  question  of  the  lakes,  sources  of  the  Nile, 
and  to  that  of  the  MoiiiU.-iins  of  the  Moon.       Notice  can  only  l)e  taken  of  the 

29-t 


The  Iluwenzori  Kaiim'. 

mistake  made  l.y  Stanley,  wIk.,  after  calling  Ptolemy  "  the  Kaven.stein  or  the 
Justus  Perthes  of  his  perioil "  (Yd.  II,  p.  270),  says  that  the  easternmost  lake 
was  called  liy  Ptolemy  Color  Pahis,  whereas  this  lake  is  expressly  described 
in  the  Alexandrian's  work  as  l)elonging  to  the  secondary  basin  of  the  Bahr 
el-Azrek.  (-") 

Meanwhile,  from  the  facts  so  far  pointed  out,  we  clearly  see  how  greatly 
those  authors  are  at  fault  who  place  the  two  lakes  of  the  Upjjfr  Nile,  and  as 
a  n8c^ssary  eonseciusnce  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon  too,  in  the  highland  region 
of  Aliyssinia,  thus  turning  the  Ptolemaic  data  upsiile  down,  and  stating  in 
support  of  their  assumption  that  the  ancients  knew  of  only  one  system  of 
snowy  mountains  in  Africa,  namely,  that  of  the  Abyssinian  Semen.  All  the 
less  can  we  accept  the  opinion  of  those  writers  who,  with  Ravenstein  (-i),  prefer 
Marinus  Tyrus  to  Ptolemy,  and  locate  the  Upper  Nile  lakes  in  the  neighl>our- 
hood  of  the  east  coast,  and  precisely  in  the  territory  of  the  Afars  (Dankali), 
that  is  at  over  11    of  north  latitude. 

Those  two  famous  lakes  are,  lieyond  doubt,  identical,  the  eastern  with 
Lake  Victoria,  the  western  with  Lake  Albert  or  Albert  Edward,  or  piol)al)ly 
with  both  of  them  taken  together.  Nor  does  the  i)l>jection  hold  which  is 
suggested  by  the  too  great  difference  (8  degrees)  in  the  longitudes  of  the  two 
lacustrine  basins,  as,  besides  the  uncertainty  in  which  Ptolemj-  leaves  us 
regarding  the  locality  of  the  eastern  lake,  of  which  he  gives  us  the  geographical 
relations,  it  may  be  remarked  that  the  difference  might  have  been  caused  )>y 
the  windings  of  the  routes  that  had  to  be  traversed  to  get  from  the  southern 
shores  of  the  easterii  lake  to  any  point  of  the  western.  (--')  It  is  further  objected 
that  Ptolemy  tells  us  nothing  as  to  the  size  of  the  two  lakes,  which  seems 
strange,  especially  as  regards  Lake  ^'icto^ia,  a  rival  in  ai-ea  of  the  largest  lakes 
in  the  Laurentian  basin  of  North  America.  On  this  point  I  may  remark  that 
neither  for  any  of  the  other  lakes  does  Ptolemy  tell  us  anything  respecting 
their  extent.  Why,  then,  shoidd  he  make  a  solitary  exception  in  the  ease  of 
the  two  Nilotic  ones  1  Nor  should  it  be  forgotten  that  in  his  comprehensive 
work  Ptolemy  shows  himself  more  especially  in  the  light  of  an  astronomer. 
The  geographer  appears,  so  to  sax,  only  in  the  seconfl  place.  In  fact,  no  trace 
is  to  be  found  of  a  physical  description  of  the  world,  of  its  morphology,  or  of 
any  of  the  othei-  subjects  that  form  the  main  object  of  pure  geography.  In 
this  respect  Ptolemy  is  far  inferior  to  Strabo.  His  chief  aim,  says  Bunbury, 
was  to  rectify  the  general  map  of  the  hal)ital)le  globe,  not  onl}'  by  supplying 
what  had  remained  unknown  to  his  predecessors,  but  also  by  applying  from 
beginning  to  end  a  more  scientific  system  based  on  solid  astronomic  founda- 
tions.    He  again  inclined  to  the  idea  that  had  long  before  been  entertained  by 

295 


Appendix  A. 

Hipparchns,  Imt  which  that  great  astronomer  had  Iieeii  iiiiaMe  to  realize  owing 
to  the  great  hick  of  materials. 

The  identitj'  being  thus  demonstrated  ot  Ptolemy's  two  lakes  with  Lake 
Victoria  and  the  Albert-Albert  Edward  l)asin,  we  now  come  to  the  question 
of  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon.  That  these  uplands,  lofty  enough  to  feed  the 
reservoirs  of  the  Upper  Xile  with  their  snows,  are  to  be  placed  amiil  the 
Abyssinian  highlands,  and  more  particularly  in  the  mountains  of  Semen  ur  of 
Gojam,  is  a  view  that  must  be  absolutely  rejected.  To  it  aie  opp(}sed  the 
northern  position  of  those  mountains,  the  fact  that  the  Abyssinian  heights 
stand  altogether  outside  the  upper  basin  of  the  White  Nile,  and  perhaps  also 
the  altitude  itself  which,  although  in  some  of  its  peaks  rivalling  that  of 
Monte  Eosa,  is  still  too  low  to  justify  Ptolemy's  statement,  if,  indeed,  the 
Geographer  intended  to  speak  of  perennial  snows. 

The  Abj'ssinian  Mountains  l)eing  excluded,  only  two  upland  groups 
remain  that  might  aspire  to  the  honour  of  being  identified  with  the  ^lountains 
of  the  Moon.  These  are  the  Kilimanjaro-Kenia  (-'^)  and  the  Kuwenzori  groups. 
There  is,  however,  a  serious  olijection.  Ptolemy  (or  the  Arab  interpolation  ?) 
expressly  states  that  the  longitudinal  axis  of  those  mountains  is  developed  in 
the  equatorial  direction  along  the  parallel  of  12'  30'  S.  The  Kilimanjaro- 
Kenia  group  is,  on  the  contrary,  developed  in  a  direction  which  departs  little 
from  the  meridian,  while  that  of  Euwenzori  has  a  trend  nearly  from  S.S.AV.  to 
X.N.E.  Nevertheless,  this  at  first  sight  most  formidable  objection  may  perhaps 
be  overcome,  or  better,  toned  down  with  a  consideration  of  general  hydrography. 
We  know  that,  in  accordance  with  their  direction  relatively  to  that  of  the  lines 
of  water-parting,  rivers  are  normally  divided  into  transversal  and  longitudinal. 
The  first  have  a  trend  perpendicular,  or  nearly  so,  to  the  main  water-parting 
line,  while  the  second  are  jjaiallel,  or  nearly  so,  to  the  same  line.  To  which  of 
these  two  categories  belongs  the  course  of  the  Upper  Nile  ?  If  we  regard  as  a 
line  of  water-parting  the  undulating  ground  traversing  Unyamweziland,  and 
enclosing  on  the  south  the  Upper  Nile  Ijasin,  and  more  particularly'  that  of 
Lake  Victoria,  then  the  U^pper  Nile  will  be  classed  amongst  the  transversal 
rivers.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  we  take  as  main  dividing  lines  either  the  steep 
eastern  scarp  of  the  great  African  tableland  (the  watershed  towards  the  Indian 
Ocean),  or  else  the  series  of  heights  separating  Lake  All)ert  Edward,  the 
Semliki  valley,  and  Lake  Albert  from  the  Congo  basin,  then  the  Upper  Nile 
will  become  a  lontjitudinal  river.  Now,  bearing  in  mind  the  decided  trend  of 
the  Nile  in  the  meridian  direction,  it  is  highly  prolialile  that  we  should  incline 
rather  to  the  first  than  to  the  second  view,  and  accordingly  place  the  region 
where  the  river  rises  in  an  u|)laiid  tiact  lunning  perpendicularly  to  its  trend, 

293 


The  Rmvenzori  Range. 

that  is,  from  west  to  east.  But  at  the  same  time,  either  owing  to  our 
knowledge  of  the  existence  of  snowy  peaks  in  that  part  of  east  eqiuitorial 
Africa,  or  else  because  of  the  generally  admitted  principle  that  the  lai-ger 
rivers  rise  in  the  highest  mountains,  (-'■)  those  moderate  undulations  of  the  land 
were  without  more  ado  transformed  to  a  gi'oup  of  gigantic  highlands.  We  thus 
see  how,  despite  their  trend,  quite  different  from  the  equatorial,  the  two  groups 
of  Kilimanjaro-Kenia  and  Kuwenzori,  thanks  to  their  great  elevation,  came  to 
form  part  of  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon.  (-'•)  To  which  of  the  two  should  the 
preference  l)e  given  ? 

Respecting  Kilimanjaro-Kenia,  wo  have  to  consider  a  fact  of  vast 
geological  and  hydrographic  imjwrtance.  The  narrow  strip  of  seaboard  along 
the  Indian  Ocean,  where  prevail  the  Jurassic  limestones  and  argillaceous  schists, 
is  followed  westwards  by  a  chain  of  isolated  crystalline  heights  commonly 
designated  by  the  name  of  the  East  African  Schistose  Mountains.  West  of 
this  system  we  enter  a  zone  highly  remarkable  for  its  great  geological 
disturbances.  It  is  distinguished  alwve  all  by  the  great  East  African  Kift 
Valley,  a  vast  line  of  fissure  nuuiing  in  the  direction  of  the  meridian,  and 
extending  for  40°  of  latitude  from  the  Asphaltitea  Lake  (Dead  Sea)  all  the  May 
to  Ugogo.  The  trough  (in  the  east  side  is  to  lie  regarded  as  a  secondarv  rift, 
above  which  rise  Mounts  Meru,  Kilimanjaro,  and  pi-oliably  also  Kcni.i.  The 
whole  of  this  district  west  of  the  East  African  Schistose  system  sends  none  of 
its  running  waters  either  directly  or  indirectly  tn  tlic  Indian  Ocean.  In  other 
words,  it  is  e.ssentially  a  landlocked  continental  region.  (-")  Thus,  while  the 
east  slope  of  the  Schistose  Moiuitains  is  traversed  liy  streams  tributary  to  the 
Indian  Ocean,  the  few  rivers  of  the  west  slope  find  no  other  outlet  but  the 
chain  of  lakelets  which  follow  in  the  direction  from  noith  to  south  .dong  the 
meridian  rift.  The  aforesaid  Kilimanjaro-Kenia  group  stands  therefore 
alisolutely  outside  the  Lake  Victoria  and  Somerset  Nile  basins.  (-") 

It  is  otherwise  with  Kuwenzori,  which,  liy  its  east  watershed  not  only 
l)elongs  to  the  liasin  of  the  Somerset  Nile  and  of  the  regi(jn  north-east  of  Lake 
AUiert  Edward,  liut  also,  by  its  south  and  west  slopes,  to  the  liasin  of  the  same 
Lake  Albert  Edward,  the  Semliki  and  Lake  Albert.  Hence,  if,  as  is  jjrobable, 
there  exists  any  orographic,  if  not  geological,  link  between  Kuwenzori  and  the 
group  of  Viruuga  Mountains,  which  rise  to  the  south  and  south-west  of  Lake 
Albert  Edward  to  an  altitude  of  1.3,000  feet,  the  identification  of  this  highland 
system  with  the  Mount;iins  of  tlie  Moon  would  be  ail  the  more  confii'med. 
This  system  is,  in  fact,  the  only  one  in  the  whole  of  eijuatorial  Africa  that 
completely  satisfies  all  the  conditions  specified  in  Ptolemy's  Geography,  not 
even   altogether    excepting    that    of    the    general    trend,    wliich    is    precisely 

■297 


Appendix  A. 

equatorial  in  the  group  of   the  Nfumbiro  (properly  Muhawura — "  far  seen  "  ) 
and  Virunga  Mountains,  although  these  are  far  less  elevated  than  Ruwenzori.  (-'■') 


NOTES. 


(')  This  is  tlie  seventh  chapter  of  Book  IV.  After  imlicuting  tlie  geographical  positions 
of  the  two  lakes  sources  of  the  Xile,  it  would  naturally  occur  to  Ptoleniv  to  gire  that  of  tlie 
more  southern  snowy  mountains.  But  he  does  not  do  so,  and  onlv  speaks  of  them  incidentally 
in  chapter  8  of  the  same  book,  where  there  is  no  further  reference  to  the  Egyptian  river. 

(-)  CooLEY,  op.  cil.,  pp.  77-78. 

(•')  H.  KlEPKRT,  Lehrhvch  der  alien  Georirajihif,  p.  210,  note  2. 

(^)  Gcogi:  Mil.  1892,  Litteratiir-Bcricht,  No.  40. 

(')   Meteor.     B.iok  I,  chap.  13. 

C)  Hint'iire  de  la  Geographie,  pp.  109  ami  121  ;  Le  Nord  dc  VAfriqv^  dans 
VAiiliiinite  grecqiie  et  romaine,  pp.  21  and  486. 

{/)   M.ilFATTI,  Scritii  geografici  ed  elnografici,  p.  454. 

(*)  See  in  this  connection  the  iniportant  considerations  developed  bv  Ptolemy  in 
chaps.  4  and  6  of  Book  I. 

(')  The  defects  of  this  method,  and  the  serious  errors  committed  by  Ptolemy  in 
recasting  and  expanding  the  work  of  Marinus  of  Tyre,  are  excellently  exhibited,  with  his  usual 
clearness  and  shrewdness,  by  VlvlEN  DE  Saint-Martix  {Hiittoire  de  la  Oeographii; 
pp.  200  and  201).  On  Ptolemy's  geographic  system  specially  valuable  are  the  pages 
devoted  to  this  subject  liy  BrxBUEY  in  liis  Histori/  of  Aiicient  Geographg  (2nd  edition. 
Vol.  II,  pp.  546-579). 

("*)  Very  numerous  instances  of  such  numerical  reductions  arc  found  in  tlie  Geogrnphit. 
and  especially  in  Book  I. 

(")  (30'5'x6°)x|  =  30^4l5;  30°  5'-30°,  419=0°,085. 

('-)  Plol.  Geogr.,  Book  IV,  chap.  7.  Here  is  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  that  flow  from 
the  southern  lakes  ;  long.  60°,  lat.  2°  N. 

(*■')  Such  is  also  the  opinion  of  not  a  few  modern  getigraphers,  amongst  whom  I  have 
pleasure  in  mentioning  Dr.  Fklvx  BARLTorx  in  one  of  his  learned  dissertations  published  in 
1874.  under  the  title,  Doctrhifi  Ptolciitaei  ah  injuria  reveal iorinn  viiidii-ata^  p.  31. 

298 


Tlie  Eiiwenzori  Range. 

('■')  "His  (PtokMiiv's)  hititudi's  aiul  loMf;it»dfS  are  cleiirly  wortlilfss,  pxceirt  in  so  far  as 
flu>  former  represent  flie  broad  faet  that  these  hikes,  and  therefore  tlie  sources  of  tlie  NiU', 
were  aetnally  situated  soutli  of  tlie  equator."  So  Bunburt  in  the  quoted  work,  Vol.  II, 
pp.  814-15. 

V")  Cape  Aroniata  is  usually  identified  with  Cape  Guar.la/iii.  Henut  ScnLiciiTKK  {Proc. 
of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  1891,  p.  529),  places  it  niucli  farther  south,  and  identifies 
it  with  Mai  Asirad  (hit.  4'  30'  N.).  Ca|)e  Rhaptmn  is  placed  by  Ptolemy  at  one  and  a-lialf 
defiree  from  the  eommereial  emporium  of  Rhapta  in  the  direction  of  the  soutli.  Touching  its 
identity  with  any  of  the  coast  lieadlamls  in  that  part  of  Africa,  geographers  are  not  quite  of 
accord.  Miiller  places  it  at  Ra.i  Puna,  Berlionx  and  Schlichter  at  Ka.t  Mnmljamkii.  Nor  is 
it  easy  to  indicate  the  position  of  the  eommereial  emporium  of  Eliapla,  since  it  did  no(  lie  on 
tlie  coast,  but  somewhat  inland.  Still,  as  the  Kiver  Rhaptus  of  Ptolemy's  Geography  is  most 
probably  identical  with  the  Pangani,  not  a  few  geographers  place  Rhapta  on  the  lower  course 
of  that  river.  Bunbury  (op.  cit.,  p.  454),  says  that  Rhapta  stood  at  the  head  of  the  bay 
opposite  Zanzibar,  not  far  from  Bagamoyo. 

("■■)    Geogi:,  Book  I,  chap.  9. 

('')  Admitting  that  Rhapta  corresponded  to  some  place  i>n  (lie  lower  course  of  the 
Pangani,  Ptolemy's  latitude  7°  S.  would  differ  by  1°  30' from  the  actual,  the  mouth  of  the 
Pangani  being  at  5'  30'.  If  we  locate  Rhapta  with  Bunbury  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Bagamoyo,  the  agreement  will  be  almost  jierfeet.  In  any  cast',  the  nearly  correct  description 
of  the  eastern  seaboard  is  easily  ex]>lained  when  we  remember  that,  as  we  know  from  tin- 
Periplns  Marin  Erylhraei  and  from  tlie  language  of  Ptolemy  himself,  the  eoastlands  north 
of  Rhapta  were  at  that  time  very  veil  kTiowu. 

("*)   See  the  foregoing  note. 

('-')  Str.\BO,  Oeogr.,  Book  XVII,  cliap.  1,1;  Bkroer,  Die  gengraphixcheii  Fragmevte  dex 
Ji^ratoit/ieaei,  Vol.  I,  p.  302  sq. 

P)  Stanley,  /»  Darkest  Africa,  Vol.  II,  ]i.  270. 

(-')    Proceedings  of  tlie  Itayal  Geograjiliieal  Society,  1891,  p.  550. 

(~)  H.  Schlichter  ni  Proceedings  ofllie  Royal  Geographical  Society,  1891,  p.  534. 

P)  Bunbury,  History  of  Ancient  Geography,  Vol.  II. 

(-■*)  We  know  that  the  first  notions  regarding  these  gigantic  momitains  of  East  Africa 
<late  from  the  travels  of  the  missionaries  Krapf  and  Rebmann  (1848-1851). 

('^)   The  Monies  Alrapei  of  European  Sarmatia  may  serve  as  an  instance. 

(-")  Bunbury  argues  much  to  the  same  effect.  '"  The  precision  with  which  he  determines 
the  position  and  limits  of  a  range  of  mountains,  cttncerning  which  be  had  no  real  knowledge, 
and  which  had  no  existence  in  faet,  finds  a  jiandlel  in  that  of  thi-  Ifyiierboreau  Momitains  in 
European  Sarmatia  ;  and  there  seems  no  doubt  that  the  process  by  which  Ptolemy  arrived  at 
his  eonelusion  was  much  the  same  in  both  cases.  In  this  instance  he  had  learned  the  existence 
of  two  lakes,  which  lie  believed  to  be  the  sources  of  the  Nile  ;  he  had  learnt  also  the  existence 
of  a  range  of  mountains,  «0)«e  o/"  n'hicli  n-ere  so  lofty  as  to  be  cohered  with  .««oi»,  though 
situated  under  the  equator;  he  then  at  once  assumed  that  the  lakes  were  fed  by  the  snows  of 
the  mountains,  and  having  no  real  idea  of  the  position  of  these  last,  drew  them  on  his  map  in 
a  straight  line,  to  the  south  of  the  lakes,  extending  far  enough  to  the  east  and  west,  to  supply, 
as  he  conceived,  the  necessary  drainage."  See  History  of  Ancient  Oeograjihy,  Vol.  II, 
p.  6li'.     It  is  needless  to  observe  that  the  learned  historian  does  not  admit  with  Cooley  the 

2!)'.) 


Appendix  A. 


interpolation  of  tho  jmssiiwo  in  tlic  Gcojinipliv  whore  allusion  is  made  to  the  Mountains  of  tlie 
Moon,  or,  in  other  words,  he  holds  tlieni  to  have  been  written  by  Ptoleniv  himself.  "  The 
attenijit  of  Mr.  Cooler,"  he  writes,  "  to  discard  altogether  the  Mountiiins  of  the  Moon  as  an 
interpolation  in  the  text  of  Ptolemy,  due  to  the  Arabian  Geographers,  appears  to  me  wholly 
mitenable.  The  passage  in  whieh  he  speaks  of  them  (IV,  9,  3)  is  unconnected  with  thiil  eou- 
eerning  the  two  lakes  (IV,  8,  23),  and  probably  derived  from  a  different  autliority  ;  but  it  is 
not  inoonsisteut  with  it."      (See  op   cit.,  p.  617,  note  3.) 

{-')  O.   BaI'IUXN,  Diirch  Masai/and  ziir  Silqiiflle,  p.  133. 

(-^)  Before  these  geogra])hieal  details  were  known,  geographers  were  naturally  inelined 
to  identify  those  snowy  moinitains  of  East  Africa  with  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon  of 
Ptolemy's  Geograpliy.  it  will  suffice  to  uicnlioii  Chakles  Bekb  (0«  the  Jloiiiitaiiis 
forming  the  eastern  side  of  the  Site,  Ediuburgh,  IStJl)  ;  Vivien  de  Saixi-Maktik 
(Le  yard  de  CAfrique  duns  V Anlii[nile  grecqne  el  romiiiie,  Paris,  1863);  Etiexne  Felix 
Berliou.x;  {Dorlriiia  Ftolemaei  ab  injuria  recenlioi-um  riiidicatn,  Paris,  1874),  Sir  E.  II. 
BuNEUHY  (A  Jlis/ory  of  Ancient  Oeographi/,  Vol.  II,  p.  617)  ;  H.  ToZEB,  who,  in  his 
Historif  of  Ancient  Georiraphii^  jmblished  in  1897,  hence  subsequently  to  Stanley's  last 
great,  expedition,  writes  at  p.  352  :  "  The  intelligence  which  is  contained  in  these  two 
statements  (regarding  the  two  lakes  as  sources  of  the  Kile  and  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon) 
was  probably  transmitted,  not  by  way  of  the  Nile  Valley,  \\hicli  was  not  followed  by 
traders  beyond  tlic  marshy  region  \\luch  has  been  already  noticed,  t)ut  from  the  coast  in 
tlie  neiglibourhood  of  Zanzibar,  \^licrc  the  station  of  Khapta  liad  been  established.  On 
this  supposition  it  is  not  improbable  that  the  lakes  here  spoken  of  are  the  A'ictoria  and 
Albert  Nyanza,  and  the  mention  of  so  imusual  a  phenomenon  as  snow-covered  mountains  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  equator  supports  the  conjecture  that  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon 
are  none  other  than  Mounts  Kilimanjaro  (19,700  feet),  and  Kcnia  (18,370  feet),  which  lie 
between  those  lakes  and  the  sea." 

(■-')  Amongst  the  most  vigorous  champions  of  Staidcy's  view  is  H.  S.  SciILICHTEU,  who 
concludes  his  learned  work  on  Ptolemy's  Topojraj>hii  of  Easte<-n  E<jnalori<il  Africa  (1801), 
with  the  following  words  : — "  Mr.  Stanley's  discovery  of  this  great  snow  mountain,  surrounded 
by  a  series  of  other  jicaks,  forms,  so  to  speak,  the  key  to  the  whole  question  of  the  Mountains  of 
the  Moon,  ior  it  is  perfectly  clear  that  by  the  Ptolennieau  mountain,  the  snows  of  which 
feed  the  Nile  lakes,  only  Ruwenzori  can  be  nu'ant,  as  may  be  seen  from  a  glance  at 
Ml'.  Stanley's  map,  where  we  find  a  great  number  of  rivers  (I  have  counted  more  than  forty) 
whicJi  How  from  the  hciglits  of  Ruwenzori  into  tlie  Seniliki  ov  tlic  Albert  Kdw ard  Nyanza. 
\Vc  have  seen  that  the  western  end  of  the  Mountains  of  the  Jloon,  as  descrilied  liy  Ptolemy, 
coincides  with  Ruwenzori,  and  Mr.  Stanley  is  therefore  perfectly  justilli'd  in  claiming  to 
have  found  and  identified  the  lofty  peaks,  celebrated  in  antiquity,  in  which  the  Nile  takes 
its  rise,  and  which,  for  many  centuries  past,  were  more  enigmatical  than  any  other  mountain 
in  t]ie  world." 

Dealing  witli  a  question  whose  final  resolution,  in  tlic  absence  of  safe  and  positive  data 
ami  in  the  scarcity  of  actual  fa(;ts,  must  always  remain  ji  "  pious  wish/'  one  well  understands 

how    Schlichter's    conclusions  were    not    uiiaiiimou>ly  a ])te(l,  and    even    found    formidable 

opponents,  amongst  whom  Kaveustcin  must  l)c  sju-ciallv  meiilioned.  The  examination  of  the 
arguments  advanced  for  and  against  would  far  exceed  the  modest  limits  to  which  I  have 
eonliued  myself  in  thesi'  pages.     I  must  rest  satislieil  with   hi'iT  {piotiiig  tlie  ojiiiiion  expressed 

300 


The  liuwenzori  Eange. 

oil  tlie  subject  by  Sir  Henry  H.  Johxston  in  liis  recent  work,  The  yUe  Quest,  p.  2S:  "  Tlie 
present  writer  is  unable  to  understand  why  that  able  geograplier,  Mr.  E.  G.  Raveiistein,  has 
dovibted  the  identification  of  Ruwcnzori  witli  Ptob'niy's  Mountains  of  tlic  Moon.  It  nnist  be 
obvious,  wlien  all  facts  are  considered,  that  Ruwcnzori  was  the  principal  germ  of  this  idea. 
The  Greek  traders  at  Rhapta  (Pangani)  no  doubt  had  sonic  idea  of  the  existence  of  Kiliman- 
aro,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  cither  the  single  dome  of  Kilimanjaro  or  the  gleaming 
pinnacle  of  Kenia  would  impress  the  imagination  so  strongly  as  the  whole  hriUiant  range  of 
Euwenzori's  four  or  five  snow  peaks  and  thirty  miles  of  glaeiatiou." 


201 


APPENDIX    B. 


ASTRONOMIC,   GEODETIC   AND    METEORO- 
LOGICAL   OBSERVATIONS. 


L— REPORT   ON   ASTRONOxMIC  OBSERVATIONS, 
By  p.  CAMPIGLI. 

II.— GEODETIC   OBSERVATIONS, 
By  p.  CAMPIGLI. 

III.— REPORT  ON  METEOROLOGICAL  AND 
ALTIMETRIC  OBSERVATIONS, 

By  prof.  1).  0.\I01)i:i. 


In  this  note  are  coiitaineil  the  relations 
and  caleiilations  of  the  astronomic, 
meteoiologieal  and  geodetic  observations 
which  H.K.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi 
\\as  able  to  carry  out  on  the  route  from 
Entebbe  to  Bujongolo,  and  during  the 
exploration  of  the  Ruwenzori  Range. 

The  calculations  relating  to  these 
observations,  as  well  as  the  construction 
and  plan  of  the  topographic  maps 
accompanying  the  present  volume  were 
executed  at  the  Hydrographic  Institute 
uf  the  Royal  Navy  at  Genoa. 

The  way  liy  which  the  astronomic 
and  meteorological  observations  were  made,  from  which  were  olitained  the 
positions  and  altitudes  of  the  various  points  indicated  on  the  maps,  as  well  as 
the  methods  of  calculation  employed,  are  all  eml)odied  in  the  accompanying 
special  reports  drawn  up  through  the  care  of  the  Director  of  the  said  Institute, 
Mattia  Giavotto,  Captain  of  frigate,  the  sections  dealing  with  the  meteorology 
and  the  astronomic  observations  lieing  prepared  by  Prof.  Omodei  and  the 
"  Capo-Tecnico  "  Sig.  P.  Campigli  respectively. 


305 


I.— REPORT   ON  ASTRONOMIC  OBSERVATIONS. 

By  p.  CAJiriui.i. 

The  astronomic  determinations  made  by  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  the  Alutizzi 
on  the  route  between  Entebbe  and  Ruwenzori  are  the  result  of  solar 
observations  made  with  an  aluminium  sextant,  which  was  constructed  in  the 
engineering  workshop  of  the  Xaval  Hydrographic  Institute  at  Genoa.  Its 
graduated  arc  has  a  radius  of  14-5  mm.  (about  6  inches),  being  so  subdivided 
as  to  show  the  20  seconds  on  the  vernier.  Magnaghi's  astronomic  circle  was  used 
only  in  the  very  few  cases  where,  for  observations  at  the  meridian  or  in  its 
neighliourhood,  the  height  of  the  sun  was  such  as  to  make  the  use  of  the 
sextant  less  convenient. 

Of  course,  all  measured  heights  were  duplicated  at  an  artificial  mercurial 
horizon,  care  being  taken  to  reverse  the  position  of  the  roof  at  half  of  each 
series  of  observation;?,  in  order  to  lessen  to  the  utmost  the  influence  of  errors 
in  case  the  glasses  of  the  said  roof  should  eventually  become  prismatically 
affected. 

The  calculations  were  carried  out  by  means  of  logarithms  of  S  decimals, 
tables  of  7  decimals  being  used  only  in  calculating  the  mean  hour  at  Greenwich 
at  the  moment  of  emersion  of  B  A  C  81  from  the  lunar  disk,  as  observed  at 
midnight  between  the  11th  and  12th  July,  1906,  at  Bujongolo,  the  last 
astronomic  station  in  the  district  nearest  to  the  Ruwenzori  uplands. 

The  astronomic  refraction  r,  corresponding  to  the  considerable  altitudes  at 
which  the  astronomic  observations  were  made  during  the  journey,  was  calculated 
with  Bessel's  well-known  formula  : — 

/■  =  log  ('(  tang  :)  +  A  (log  B  +  log  T)  +  log  y, 

neglecting  the  factor  A,  for  apparent  zenith  distances  :,  under  77^  and  the 
factor  A,  besides  A,  for  apparent  zenith  distances  less  than  45  .  The  values  of 
the  elements  contained  in  the  foregoing  fornuila  wore  deduced  fiom  Albrecht's 
tables,  1894  edition.  But  the  Table  34/,  which  gives  the  value  of  log  B,  only 
comprises  barometric  pressures  between  GOO  and  7S0  mm.  (24  and  31  inches), 

.307  X  2 


A])pendix  Jl 


whereas  the  expedition  reached  altitudes  at  which  coiisideral>ly  lower  pressures 
had  to  1)6  recorded ;  hence,  besides  Albrecht's  34/'  table  the  following  was  also 
calculated,  and  is  here  itiserted,  as  it  may  be  found  useful  in  other  cases. 


Barom. 

logB. 

Barom. 

logB. 

Barom. 

logB. 

Barom. 

log  B. 

Barom. 

logB. 

mm. 

mm. 

mm. 

mm. 

mm. 

400  0 

27387 

440  0  ! 

23248 

480  0 

194fi9 

520  0 

15993 

560-0 

12774 

lO 

27279 

41  0 

23149 

81  0 

19378 

21  0 

15909 

61  0 

12697 

2  0 

27170 

42  0 

23051 

82  0 

19288 

22  0 

15826 

62  0 

12619 

3  0 

270G2 

43  0 

22953 

83  0 

19198 

23  0 

15743 

63-0 

12542 

4  0 

26933 

44  0 

22865 

84-0 

19108 

24  0 

15660 

64-0 

12465 

5-0 

26847 

45  0 

22752 

85  0 

19019 

25  0 

15577 

65-0 

I238R 

6  0 

26740 

46  0 

22660 

86  0 

18929 

26  0 

15494 

66  -0 

12311 

7  0 

26634 

47  0 

22562 

87  0 

18840 

27  0 

15412 

67  0 

122S5 

8  0 

26527 

48-0 

22465 

88  0 

18751 

28  0 

15339 

68-0 

12158 

9  0 

26421 

49  0 

22368 

89  0 

18662 

29  0 

15247 

69-0 

12082 

410  0 

26315 

450  0 

22272 

490  0 

18573 

530  0 

15163 

570-0 

12006 

11  0 

26209 

51  11 

22175 

91  0 

18485 

31  0 

1.5084 

71  0 

11929 

12  0 

26103 

52  0 

22079 

92  0 

18396 

32  0 

15U02 

72-0 

11853 

13  0 

25998 

53  0 

21983 

93  0 

18308 

33  0 

14920 

73  0 

11778 

14  0 

2.5893 

54-0 

21887 

94  0 

18220 

34  0 

14844 

74-0 

11702 

15  0 

25788 

55  0 

21792 

95-0 

18132 

35  0 

14758 

75-0 

11626 

16  0 

25684 

56-0 

21697 

96  0 

18045 

36  0 

14677 

76-0 

11551 

17  0 

25579 

57  0 

21601 

97  0 

17957 

37  0 

14596 

77-0 

11475 

18  0 

25475 

58  0 

21506 

98  0 

17870 

38  0 

14515 

78-0 

11406 

19  0 

25372 

59  0 

21412 

99  0 

17783 

39  0 

14434 

79-0 

11325 

420  0 

25268 

460  0 

21317 

500-0 

17696 

540  0 

14354 

580-0 

11250 

21  0 

25165 

61  0 

21223 

1  0 

17609 

41  0 

14273 

81-0 

11175 

22  0 

25062 

62  0 

21129 

2  0 

17523 

42  0 

14193 

82-0 

11101 

23  0 

24959 

63  0 

21035 

3  0 

17436 

43  0 

14113 

83-0 

11026 

24  0 

24856 

64  0 

2094  L 

4  0 

17350 

44  0 

14033 

84-0 

10952 

25  0 

24754 

65  0 

20848 

5  0 

17264 

45  0 

13933 

85-0 

10877 

26  0 

24652 

66  0 

20754 

6  0 

17178 

46  0 

13874 

86  0 

10803 

27-0 

24550 

67  0 

20R61 

7-0 

17002 

47-0 

13794 

87-0 

10729 

28  0 

21449 

68  0 

20568 

8  0 

170U7 

48-0 

13715 

88-0 

10655 

29  0 

24347 

69  0 

20476 

9  0 

16921 

49  0 

13636 

89-0 

10581 

430  0 

24246 

470  0 

20383 

510  0 

168:6 

550  0 

13557 

590  0 

10508 

31  0 

24145 

71  0 

20291 

11  0 

16751 

51  0 

13478 

91  -0 

10434 

32  0 

24045 

72 -u 

20199 

12-0 

16666 

52  0 

13399 

92  0 

10361 

33  0 

23944 

73  0 

20107 

13  0 

16581 

53  0 

13320 

93-0 

10288 

34-0 

23844 

74  0 

20015 

14  0 

16497 

54  -0 

13242 

94-0 

10214 

35  0 

23744 

75  0 

19924 

15  0 

16412 

55  0 

13164 

95-0 

10141 

36  0 

23644 

76  0 

19832 

16  0 

16328 

56  0 

13086 

96-0 

10068 

37  0 

23545 

77  0 

19741 

17  0 

1K244 

57  0 

13088 

97-0 

9996 

38  0 

23444 

78  0 

19650 

18  0 

16160 

58-0 

12930 

98-0 

9923 

39  0 

23347 

79  0 

19559 

19  0 

16076 

1   59  0 

12852 

99-0 

9850 

The  value  of  log  B,  given  in  this  table,  is  calculated  with  the  formula: 

logB  =  log  ({7-12407  -  10}//), 

in  which  li  is  the  barometric  pressure  in  millimetres.    (1  nmi.=  about  .;,Lthinch.) 

308 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


The  expedition  of  H.K.H.  was  supplied  with  four  pocket  chronometers  at 
mean  time,  and  before  starting  on  the  journey  these  were  kept  under  contml 
at  the  Hvdrographic  Institute.  During  this  period  of  control,  the  ahsolute  and 
daily  corrections  recorded  for  the  said  chronometers  at  C  of  mean  Greenwich 
time  yielded  the  following  results  : — 


Place. 

Date, 

.Wean 

Lange 

Lange 

Longines 

Lougines 

191  »j. 

time. 

5l),.5oi(, 

K,. 

5«,52U, 

K,. 

.560.229, 

K3. 

.56I1.2.-M, 

K,. 

Note. 

K,. 

Kj. 

K3. 

K.. 

Genoa    20  Feb. 

ll''-3;+9'-87 

■ 

-23«-73 

. 

-12" -43 

-.•)()■ -33 

-0-27 

-0-57 

+  i-:7 

+0-91 

26     ,, 

11  -4 

8  -26 

-0-32 

2T  -14 

-0-78 

-  1  -79 

1-65 

25  -39 

1-91 

3  Mar. 

12  -4 

6  -66 

-0-15 

31  -04 

-0-69 

+  6  -46 

2-03 

15  -84 

1-12 

8    „ 

14  -1 

0  -93 

-0-41 

34  -47 

+0-17 

+  16  -88 

1-16 

10  -22 

1-09 

13    „ 

14  -6 

3  -88 

SS  ■«2 

+22  -68 

4  -77 

-0-45 

-0-6O 

2-88 

0-50 

19    „ 

14  -0 

1  -20 

+0-20 

37  -20 

-1-07 

39  -95 

2-67 

1  -80 

0-32 

,.        24    ■■ 

12  -4 

3  -22 

42  -33 

53  -32 

0  -18 

+0'01 

-0-98 

2-13 

0-40 

29     ., 

U  -U 

2  -29 

-u-11 

47  -31 

+  0-11 

i'»-  .-i'-ag 

2-19 

1  -84 

-0-13 

3  Apr. 

— 

1  -74 

+  0-63 

48  ■-•i 

-0-29 

1    -14  -94 

2 -SI 

1  -19 

+  1-00 

In  jHK'ket. 

7    „ 

— 

J  -29 

47  -99 

1    -26  -19 

5  -19 

+  0-29 

-0-07 

0-34 

-4-38 

Naples''  14    „ 

~ 

6  -38 

47  -52 

2    -04  -68 

36  -88 

In  train. 

After  leaving  Genoa,  and  more  particularly  during  the  voyage  by  steamer 
from  Naples  to  Port  Said,  the  chronometers  were  left  unregulated.  But  at 
Port  Said  they  were  again  set  going,  and  on  20th  April,  1906,  compared  with 
the  chronometer  at  the  Police  Station,  in  order  to  record  their  absolute 
correction. 

On  the  26th  of  the  same  month  another  comparison  was  effected  at 
Jibuti  with  the  chronometer  of  Tli/'  Eljiliinstoiie  of  the  Indian  Navy,  and  on 
4th  May,  yet  another  with  the  chronometer  of  the  Post  Office  at  Mombasa.  \t 
Entebbe,  thanks  to  steps  previously  taken,  it  was  found  possible  on  i2th  May 
to  make  a  fresh  comparison  liy  wire  with  Mombasa,  so  that  by  means  of  these 
two  comparisons  was  obtained  a  first  diurnal  correction  of  the  chi'onometers  to 
be  used  in  the  subsequent  calculations. 

The  elements  of  comparison  appear  in  the  record  of  the  pocket  chrono- 
meters included  in  the  present  Report.  From  it  we  find  that  at  Mombasa,  on 
4th  July,  at  noon,  local  time,  there  were  the  following  absolute  corrections  on 
Greenwich  mean  time  : 

Ki  =  +  3"  16" 
K.,  =  +  3    26 


+  3 


34^-9 
9  -0 

10  -5 


£09 


Appendix  B. 

On  li'th  May,  at  Entelihe  (noon  at  Mombasa),  we  obtained,  by  the  above- 
mentioned  telegraphic  comparison,  as  correction  on  the  mean  Greenwich  time  : 

Ki  =  +  3"  16"  or-  0 
Ko  =  +  3  25  52-0 
Ivj  =  +  3     2    10  -5 

From  these  elements  we  get  the  following  diurnal  corrections  for  the  three 

chronometers  : 

Bi  =  -  2^-762 

B.  =  +  2  ■  215 

B.,  =  +  3  •  -137 

The  elements  respecting  the  chronometer  No.  -t  have  been  omitted  because 
on  7th  May,  when  the  party  reached  Entebbe,  that  chronometer  was  stolen. 

The  start  for  Euwenzori  was  made  at  Entebbe,  capital  of  the  I'^ganda 
Protectorate,  and  on  the  march  some  astronomical  observations  were  made  in 
order  to  fix  the  position  of  some  points  which  were  generallj'  those  of  encamp- 
ments. Obviously  it  was  not  a  ease  in  which  too  much  reliance  could  be  placed 
on  the  Greenwich  time,  as  indicated  by  the  chronometers  during  the  period  of 
one  month  of  rough  travelling,  that  being  about  the  time  occupied  in  reaching 
Bujongolo,  last  point  where  were  obtained  astronomical  observations,  and  where 
were  begiui  the  topographic  operations  for  the  survey  of  the  Ruwenzori 
highlands.  In  order,  however,  to  secure  the  greater  or  less  efficiency  of  the 
chronometric  observations,  it  was  found  expedient  to  observe,  with  the 
determination  of  the  local  time  at  Bujongolo,  the  emersion  of  B  A  C  81  from 
the  lunar  disk,  with  a  view  to  calculating  the  hour  of  Greenwich  time  at  the 
moment  when  the  phenomenon  was  observed. 

During  the  march  the  chronometers  were  carried  on  his  person  l)y  H.R.H., 
who  kept  them  carefully  wrapped  up.  This  expedient  should  have  reduced  to 
a  minimum  the  influence  of  the  changes  of  temperature,  if,  during  the  hours  of 
rest,  when  being  replaced  in  their  own  boxes,  they  had  not  had  to  feel  the 
effects  of  the  temperature  inside  the  tent.  Such  effects,  though  little  different 
from  those  of  the  atmosphere,  always  differed  greatly  from  those  due  to  contact 
with  the  human  l:)ody.  Still,  when  we  consider  that  the  period  of  repose  was 
daily  repeated  for  aJjout  the  same  length  of  time,  it  may  he  inferred  that  the 
daily  recurring  correction  cannot  have  been  affected  by  .serious  error  due  to 
this  cause. 

In  any  case  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  of  the  three  chronometers  one  alone 
displayed  a  sufficiently  regular  action,  maintaining  a  fairly  slight  daily 
correction.     This  may   easily  be  seen   from   the  record   of    the  chronometers. 

310 


I.  — Astronomic  ()bserv\ations. 

Here  Nos.  2  and  3  point  to  irregularities  in  their  movement.  For  this  reason, 
and  also  Ijecause  the  daily  comparisons  were  occasionally  omitted,  it  was 
considered  desirable  to  make  use  only  of  the  indications  of  the  No.  1 
chronometer,  which  was  in  fact  the  one  generally  employed  for  the  observations. 
With  the  -snew  of  fi.xing,  if  only  approximately,  the  daily  correction  of  the 
Xo.  1  chronometer  for  the  period  of  the  journey,  the  calculation  of  the 
astronomic  elements  of  Bujongolo  was  taken  in  hand,  and  here  were  recorded 
determinations  of  time  between  11th  and  2sth  June,  taking  the  latitude  at 
(p  =  0'  20'  16"  X.,  roughly  obtained  from  the  already  determined  elements. 
The  corrections  of  the  No.  1  chronometer  on  the  mean  local  time  were  for 
Bujongolo : 


11th 

June, 

3"  40"  *■  . 
3  43 

..  Ob.. 

^.  No 

.  32 
33 

3  48 

34 

3  49 

3.5 

26th 

1) 

19  19 

37 

19  23 

38 

27th 

?T 

19  38 

39 

19  43 

40 

28th 

») 

20  23 

20  27 

41 
42 

=  +  5" 

IS" 

39»- 

1 

=  + 

39 

■  1 

=  + 

35 

■  5 

=  + 

34 

•6 

=  +  5 

15 

33  • 

0 

=  + 

31 

•  9 

=  +  5 

15 

29- 

9 

=  + 

32 

0 

=  +  5 

15 

26- 

8 

„    -  +  29-4 

From  the  mean  of  the  results  for  11th  and   2Sth  June  respectively,  we 
get,  omitting  the  intermediate  observations  : 

11th  June,    3"  45""  C,„.  =  +5''   1.5'"  37^-1 

28th     „       20    25  „    =  +  5     15     28  -1 


Interval  H""'-'  16"  40"'  Difference  9^0 

Hence  :  B  =  -  0=-509. 
The  change  occurring  in  the  mean  daily  correction  of  this  chronometer  is 
seen  to  be  considerable,  if  the  value  just  found  be  compared  with  that  previously 
obtained  at  P^ntebbe  (  -  2^'762).  But  now  we  merely  require  an  appro.ximate 
value  of  the  longitude  of  Bujongolo  foi'  the  calculation  of  the  emersion  of 
B  A  C  81,  and  this  will  give  us  the  absolute  longitude  of  that  same  point. 
Hence  we  take  the  by  no  means  arbitrary  course  of  adopting,  as  mean  daily 
correction  of  the  No.  1  chronometer  during  the  journey,  the  mean  of  the  two 
daily  corrections  obtained  at  Entebbe  and  at  Bujongolo,  that  is  to  sav  : 
B,  =  -  ^'■^^■'  +  0"^Q9  ^  ^..g3_ 

*  The  date  is  astronomic,  and  the  hour  is  referred  to  the  mein  local  time . 

311 


Appendix  B. 

Referring  the  observations  of  the  26th,  27th  and  28th  June  to  the  date  of 
those  of  the  11th,  and  using  the  daily  correction  -  0*-509  we  get,  by  applying 
the  just  found  mean  daily  correction  1*"635,  the  following  values  for  the 
longitude  of  Bujongolo  : 


11th 

June. — 

Sun  at  AV. 

A=l» 

59"  .53^ 

8 

KG 

11th 

)j 

))                  )) 

,,  = 

53 

5 

j» 

11th 

)» 

»)                  )» 

J)  ~ 

49 

9 

it 

11th 

,, 

,,                  ,, 

)) 

49 

0 

)t 

26th 

n 

Sua  ;it  E. 

)j  ^^ 

55 

5 

»5 

26th 

>) 

)'          ?i 

yj 

54 

3 

)5 

27th 

)) 

))          J) 

J)  ^ 

52 

8 

1) 

27th 

»5 

••)          )) 

»i 

54 

9 

») 

28th 

)» 

»»          >• 

?j  ~ 

50- 

2 

)) 

28th 

J) 

)»                    )5 

= 

52  • 

8 

)» 

Grouping  these  results  for  each  single  day  of  observation  we  get : 
Bujongolo.— 11th  Jime     X  =  1"  Sg-"  5P-5 


26th 
27  th 
28th 


54-9 
53-8 
51-5 


Disregarding  further  considerations  as  to  weight,  and  given  the  degree  of 
approximation  now  required,  the  mean  of  these  data  is : 

Bujongolo     \  =  li^  59"  52'-9  E.G. 

This  value  is  used  in  calculating  the  Greenwich  time  at  the  moment  of  the 
emersion  of  B  A  G  81  from  the  lunar  disk,  which  phenomenon  occiu'red  on 
11th  July  under  most  favourable  conditions  for  observation.  The  determina- 
tions of  the  horary  angle,  obtained  for  this  occasion  with  the  view  of 
ascertaining  the  state  of  the  chronometer  respecting  the  mean  local  time, 
gave  the  following  results  : 


jongolo  : 

10th  July 

2P 

18". 

..01 

IS. 

No 

.47. 

Sun 

at  E. 

C,„,=  +5"  15-"  33-0 

10th 

21 

20 

48 

J) 

„    =  +             32-3 

nth 

20 

01 

56 

J) 

„    =  +5    15    34-9 

11th 

20 

03 

57 

j« 

„    =  +             33-7 

11th 

20 

07 

58 

)) 

„    =  +              32-4 

11th 

20 

11 

59 

)5 

„    =  +              32  •  9 

12th 

IS 

08 

60 

,, 

„    -  +5    15    34-4 

312 


I. —  Astronomic  Observations. 

Although  this  completely  agrees  with  thu  mean  teiiour  of  the  other 
results,  the  last  value  is  for  the  present  neglected,  and,  after  olitaining  the 
mean  of  each  day,  we  get  as  general  mean  : 

11th  July,  8"  42"'     C„„=  +5"  15"  33=- 1. 

From  the  observations  taken  at  Bujongolo  during  the  days  following  our 

arrival  we  had  (see  p.  311) : 

28th  June,  20"  25"'       C„„=  +  S"  15""  28»-l. 

Hence  for  this  interval  of  12-52  days  we  obtain  the  diurnal  correction  : 

K=+0'-398 
with  which  we  get : 

12th  July,  0"  of  local  time    C,„.  =  +  S"  1 5""  33^-3 

Moment  of  Occultation „  = +5*"  IS"  33''-2 

With  this  element  and  with  the  approximate  longitude  already  cjbtained, 
we  proceed  to  a  first  calculation  of  mean  Greenwich  time  at  the  moment  of 
emersion  of  B  A  C  81  from  the  lunar  disk,  the  moment  when  the  No.  1 
chronometer  indicated  10"  14™  4*  (Olis.  No.  55).  From  the  first  approximation 
we  got  : 

Bujongolo \  =  P  59""  59"-  2  E.G. 

The  calculation   for  a  second  approximation,  in  which  account   was  also 

taken   of  the   terms  of  second  order,  only  \ery  slightly  modified  the  result. 

Thus : 

Bujongolo \  =  1"  59"  59'-  33  E.G. 

As,  however,  the  value  of  the  longitude  thus  obtained  might  be  seriously 
affected  liy  even  a  slight  error  in  the  lunar  co-ordinates  given  by  the 
ephemerides,  we  consulted  some  astronomic  observers  in  order  to  ascertain 
whether,  about  the  time  when  the  expected  occultation  took  place,  any 
oliservations  of  lunar  cnlminations  had  concurrently  lieen  made.  This  was 
done  in  order  to  introduce  into  the  calculation  the  error  of  the  position  of 
the  moon. 

Prof.  Millosevich,  Director  of  the  Observatory  of  the  Collegio  Romano, 
in  Rome,  having  undertaken  the  determination  of  the  longitude  of  Tripoli, 
where  the  astronomer.  Dr.  Bianchi,  was  obser^•ing  transits  of  the  moon  at 
meridian,  proceeded  to  take  observations  of  lunar  culminations  at  the  Collegio 
Romano  from  the  2nd  to  the  7th  July,  1906.  From  these  he  obtained  for 
11th  July— time  of  the  occultation — a  correction  for  the  right  ascension  of 
the  moon=  -i-0*-18,  and  this  agrees  perceptilily  with  that  communicated  to  us 
by  Greenwich  for  the  same  date  =  +  0^'20. 

It  may  be  mentioned  that  Greenwich  also  supplied  us  with  the  cori-ection 
for  that  date  of  the  lunar  dediniition  =  +  P-8. 

313 


Appendix  B. 


Hence  the  same  Prof,  ilillosevich  advised  us  to  assume  with  full  confidence 
the  corrections  for  the  lunar  co-ordinates  received  from  Grei'invich,  and  these 
yielded  the  longitude  for  Bujongolo  : 

\  =  2"  0"'  G"-3  E.G. 

This  again  agrees  closely  with  the  value  2''  0"  G^'O  East  Greenwich, 
obtained  liy  Prof.  Millosevich,  who  was  also  good  enough  to  make  the  same 
calculation. 

The  latitude  was  obt;iined  from  two  meridian  altitudes  and  from  two  series 
of  circummeridians  (Obs.  Nos.  38,  43,  44,  46,  and  49  to  54),  observed  partly 
by  H.R.H.  and  partly  by  Commander  Cagni.  Between  the  results  of  the  two 
observers  there  occurs  a  considerable  difference,  the  origin  of  which  may  1)6 
attributed  to  some  anomaly  of  refraction.  In  fact,  H.R.H.  was  in  this  instance 
induced  to  depart  from  his  practice  of  observing  the  lower  liml>  of  the  sun, 
owing  to  an  unusual  optic  phenomenon  which  caused  him  to  notice  on  the  lower 
edge  of  the  reflected  image  a  false  liml)  which  would  not  have  allowed  a  good 
observation.  Hence  the  discrepancy  in  the  results  is  to  be  attriliuted  to  this 
particular  state  of  the  atmosphere.  Therefore,  in  order  to  prevent  the 
observations  of  H.R.H.,  which  were  the  more  numerous,  from  too  greatly 
influencing  the  results,  the  mean  of  the  circummeridian  series  was  first 
obtained,  and  the  resulting  value  taken  as  a  mean  with  the  results  of  the 
meridian  observations.     The  se^'eral  values  thus  obtained  are  : 

17th  June.  — Meridian        —  Commander  Cagni  0  =  0'  19'  50"  N. 

9th  July.  —        „  —H.R.H.  „  =  0    20  55     „ 

10th     ,,      — Circummerid. —  Commander  Cagni  ,,=  0    19   52     ,, 

Uth     „      —Meridian         —  H.K.H.  „  =  0    20   54     „ 

These  data  yielded  for 

Bujongolo  0  =  0=  20' 23"  X. 

With  the  longitude  of  Bujongolo  is  obtained  the  alisobite  correction  of 
the  chronometer  for  the  period  of  arrival  at  that  encampment,  and  subsequently 
the  mean  daily  correction  of  the  same  chronometer  for  the  period  occupied  by 
the  journey. 

Thus  was  oI)tained  : 

Bujongolo.— 19th  June,  3"  4.5"    ...     C,„=  +  5"  1.5"' 37=-l 

...       X  =+-2      0      6-3 
Ki=-f3    15    30-8 

This  absolute  correction  on  mean  Greenwich  time  corresponds  with  the 
date  of  11th  June  at  3''  45'"  of  mean  local  time.  And  as  at  Entebbe  on 
11th  May,  at  23"  31"  of  mean  local  time,  we  had  K,  =  3"  16"  34^-  9,  we  shall 

314 


I.—  Astronomic  Observations. 

get,  taking  Mccount  of  the  ditFerence  of  longitude  between  Bujongolo  and 
Entel>l)e  ( -|-  9™  45"),  the  daily  mean  correction  K,  =  —  2"-  123,  which  we  shall 
utilize  for  the  determinations  of  position  made  in  the  pei'iod  from  11th  Maj'  to 
11th  June. 

Owing  to  an  unforeseen  circumstance,  on  the  return  journey,  and  after  the 
arrival  of  the  expedition  at  Fort  North  Portal,  the  No.  1  chronometer  under- 
went, like  the  others,  a  perceptible  change  in  its  movement.  This  was  due  to  a 
considerable  delay  which  occurred  in  winding  it,  so  that  once  it  was  necessary 
to  proceed  to  the  revision  of  the  longitude  of  Fort  Portal  which  had  been 
determined  on  the  outward  journey.  On  the  return,  the  conveyance  of 
Greenwich  time  from  Bujongolo  will  lie  limited  to  this  intermediate  point, 
since,  owing  to  the  above-mentioned  change  in  the  movement  of  the  chrono- 
meter, it  would  be  impossible  to  convey  said  time  to  Enteblie  for  purposes  of 
control. 

Retaining  the  vahie  of  the  daily  correction  just  found  (Kj  =  —  2'  •  123) 
as  a  quantity  proportional  to  the  time,  and  with  the  (approximate)  latitude  of 
Fort  Portal  =  0'  39'  20"  N.,  we  get  the  value  of  the  longitude  from  four  series 
of  altitudes  (Obs.  Nos.  17,  is,  19,  and  20),  obtaining: 

Fort  Portal.— 31st  May.     X  =  2i'  1'"  32^-2  E.G. 

>J  >1  >)    =^  ol     ■?>      ,, 

)»  ))  J5      '^  ^  A  „ 

and  as  mean  : 

Fort  Portal     A.  =  2''  1"' 32^-5  E.G. 

a  value  which  is  adopted  as  the  longitude  of  said  place. 

The  latitude   of  Fort   Portal  is  obtained   from  a  series   of  three  circum- 

meridians  observed  on  31st  May,  and  from  meridian  altitudes  of  22nd  and 

28th  July  (Obs.  Nos.  21,  22,  23,  75,   and  86).     The  mean  of  the  five  results 

yielded  for : 

Fort  Portal     <^  =  0''  39' 28"  N. 

a  value  which  difters  little  from  that  employed  for  the  calculation  of  the 
longitude. 

Using  the  longitude  just  found,  we  get  the  absolute  correction  of  No.  1 
chronometer  at  Fort  Portal  (return  journey)  by  means  of  eight  series  of 
oljservations,  as  under  ; 

Fort  Portal.- 2 1st  .hi]y,  i''  11'"... Obs.  No.  73;  K,  =  -H  3"  1.5'"  16'- 1 

4   18  „         74;     „    =  15-9 

19  53  „         76;     „  =  17-5 

19  55  „         77;     „  =  16-5 

315 


Appendix  B. 


IS.  No.  78  ; 

Ki  - 

3" 

15"' 

18- 

■8 

79; 

11         ^^ 

20' 

1 

„         80; 

)i         ^^ 

22  ■ 

6 

81; 

11         ^^ 

22 

■  2 

Fort  Portal.  —  22nd  July,  19'' SB"" 

22iul      „  19  5.5 

23rd      „  20     6 

23rd      „  20     8 

Of  this  the  mean  for  the  double  .series  required  by  the  al)ove-mentioned 
inversion  of  the  ghiss  roof  of  the  artificial  horizon  is  : 

21. St  July,    -IMS'"  ...          K,= +3''15"' 16^-0 

21st      „      19    54  „  =  +              17-0 

22nd     „      19    54  „  =  +              19-5 

23rd     „      20      7  „  =  +              22-4 

Referring  these  values  to  the  date  coinciding  with  the  first  of  them,  and 
noting  the  hour  indicated  l)y  the  chronometer,  we  get  : 

21st  July  (civil)— (p.m.) :  /,  =  10''  57"'  49^..Kl  =  3l'  15'"  15'-8 

as  the  mean  on  Greenwich  mean  time. 

From  the  determinations  of  the  time  at  Bujongolo  on  the  10th,  11th, 
and  12th  July  (astronomic  dates),  the  results  of  which  have  been  given  at 
p.  312,  we  obtain  the  absolute  correction  of  No.  1  chronometer.  Eefening  all 
the  values  to  the  date  of  the  last,  and  passing  from  the  absolute  correction 
of  the  chronometer  to  the  absolute  correction  on  Greenwich,  we  get : 

13th  July  (civil)— (a.m.)  :  ^,  =  2''  51'"  6^..K,  =  3l■  l-S"'  28*-4 

from  which  in  the  interval  lietween  the  13th  and  21st  July  the  daily  correction 

of  the  chronometer  is  found  to  be  : 

Kj  =  -  1-521. 

As  already  stated  at  p.  315,  on  the  return  journey  the  chronometers  at 
Fort  Portal  varied  consideralily  through  lack  of  control,  .so  that,  before  leaving 
this  place,  we  proceeded  to  the  determination  of  their  correction  by  means  of 
six  series  of  altitudes,  the  results  being : 

Ki  =  +  3"  32"' 57"- 6 
51-0 
59-5 

„  =  59-9 

64-8 
64-7 

The  disagreement  of  the  second  series  induced  us  to  abandon  it,  the 
influence  of  some  error  in  the  observations  being  obvious. 

316 


27th  July. 

-Obs. 

No 

.82;  /,=  10''  20"  11 

27th     „' 

83;  ,,-10    23      0 

28th     „ 

84;  „=    2    21       0 

28th     „ 

85  ;  „  =    2    23      8 

31st     „ 

87  ;  „  -  10    25    44 

31st     „ 

88;  ,,  =  10    27    53 

I. — Astronomic  Observations. 

Referring  the  daily  values  of  the  absolute  correction  to  the  mean  date  of 
the  values  of  the  last  double  series  we  get  : 

31st  July  (civil)  (p.m.),  t..  =  10'' 26"'  48'. ..K;  -  +  3"  33"'  S'^- 0 
which  represents  the  absolute  correction  of  the  chronometer  on  Greenwich  time 
before  starting  on  the  return  journej'  from  Fort  Portal  to  Entebbe.  On 
reaching  the  latter  place  it  was  found  impossible  to  get  a  new  telegraphic 
comparison  with  Mombasa,  as  on  the  outward  journey.  Hence  proceeded  to 
the  determination  of  the  absolute  correction  of  the  chronometer,  using  for 
Entebbe  the  longitude  2''  9™  47'  East  Greenwich  given  us  by  the  competent 
local  authority.     The  result  was : 

16th  August.— Obs.  No.  110  ;  /,  =  10"  29""    7'  ...     K,  =  +  S*-  33-"  29"-  9 

16th       „                  ,,         111  ;  ,,  =  10    31     13  „  =                  28-5 

17th       „                  „         112;  „=    2    43    .5.5  „  =                  25-2 

17th       „                  „         113;  „-    2    46       1  „  =                  23-8 

AVe  see  (( /'cw/i  that  in  this  interval  of  little  over  16  hours  the  movement 
of  the  chronometer  indicates  a  strong  variation,  such  as  had  never  occurred 
during  the  whole  journey.  Instead  of  taking  the  mean  of  these  values,  it  was 
thought  expedient  to  use  the  restdts  alone  of  the  two  series  of  16th  August 
observed  immediately  after  the  arrival  at  Enteb1>e.     From  these  we  get : 

16th  August  (civil),  (p.m.) ;  lO^'  .-iO'"  10'. ..Kj  =  +  3''  3.3'"  29'- 2 

so  that  the  daily  correction  of  the  ehronnmeter  to  lie  used  in  the  interval  from 
31st  July  to  15th  August  was  : 

Ki  =  +   p-510. 

The  question  now  was  to  see  what  degree  of  confidence  might  l)e  placed 
in  the  daily  corrections  which  had  so  far  been  obtained.  From  the  fact  tliat 
the  longitude  of  a  few  points  was  determined  lioth  on  the  outward  and  the 
return  journey,  we  were  offered  a  means  of  control  which,  if  it  stood  alone, 
woidd  not  be  absolutely  safe,  since  it  was  alwaj-s  possible  that  the  erroi'.s  liy 
which  the  accepted  daily  corrections  might  be  afteeted  might  lie  such,  in 
magnitude  and  sign  (plus  or  minus),  as  to  lead  to  longittidinal  results  apparently 
concordant  though  really  very  incorrect.  As,  however,  there  were  several 
points  determined  under  such  conditions,  so  that  in  some  cases  we  could 
ascertain  the  degree  of  concordance  in  the  longitudinal  residts,  from  this  might 
be  inferred  Vioth  the  practical  value  of  the  daily  corrections  that  had  been 
adopted,  and  the  measure  of  confidence  that  might  be  placed  in  the  positions 
obtained  from  the  astronomic  observations. 

317 


Appendix  B. 

The  position  of  Ibanda,  a  place  lying  bstween  Bajoiigolo  and  Fort  Portal, 
was  determined  both  on  going  and  returning.  From  four  meridian  altitudes 
{Obs.  Nos.  27,  65,  66,  and  67),  we  obtained  for  this  point  the  latitude 
0  =  0°  19'  59"  N.,  and  from  this  were  deducsd  the  following  longitudinal 
values  :  — 

On  the  outward  journey  : 

Ibanda  Obs.  No.  28 A  =  2''  0"  4-t'-0  E.G. 

..        29 „=  43-1    „ 


On  the  return  journey  : 

Ibanda. — Obs.  Nt>. 


Mean  ,,  = 

=  2'' 

0'"  43 

'5 

»i 

62 

\-2» 

Qm 

43'- 

9  E.G. 

6;i 

)»  ~ 

41 

•5      „ 

64 

yt 

42 

•5      „ 

68 

))  ~ 

42 

•7      ., 

69 

>J  ~ 

43 

■5      „ 

Mean     „  =  2"  0""  42'-  8      „ 

Such  is  the  agreement  between  these  two  results  that  we  may  even 
disregard  all  considerations  as  to  the  weights  to  be  adopted  for  the  values 
■obtained,  whether  as  regards  the  number  of  concurrent  observations,  or  the 
length  of  time  during  which  Greenwich  time  had  to  be  conveyed.  In  this 
case  there  intervened  22  days  for  the  determination  of  longitude  on  going 
(that  is,  Greenw^ich  time  was  conveyed  for  22  days),  compared  with  a  mean  of 
about  5  days  of  conveyance  for  the  determination  madj  on  our  return. 

Moreover,  given  the  degree  of  accuracy  that  may  be  required,  allowing 
for  the  available  means  and  the  limited  time  at  the  disposal  of  the  expedition, 
we  found  it  advisable  to  adopt  as  the  value  of  the  longitude  of  Ibanda  the 
mean  of  the  two  results,  namely  : 

Ibanda A  =  2i'  0'"  43^-2  E.G. 

In  the  district  between  Entebbe  and  Port  Poi'tal  there  are  two  other  points 
which  offered  the  same  conditions,  and  which  consecjuently  contributed  to 
supply  means  of  control.  For  Kichiomi,  which  is  one  of  these  two  points,  we 
ol)tained  by  the  observation  of  a  meridian  altitude  both  going  and  returning 
<Obs.  Nos.  ]  0  and  99)  the  following  result  : 

Kichiomi 0  =  0    31'  20"  N. 

Adopting  this  value  for  the  calculation  of  longitude  we  oljtained  on  going  : 
Kichiomi.— Obs.  No.  11 \  =  2''  4"'  27^- 3  E.G. 

318 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


On  the  return : 


Kichiomi. — Obs.  No.  100 \  =  2"  4"  26"' 0  E.G. 

„       „     101  „  25-9    „ 


Mean \  =  2"  4"  26"- 0    „ 

Here  also  the  agreement  between  the  two  results  is  satisfactory,  and  for 
the  reasons  already  stated  we  retain  as  definite  value  the  mean  of  the  two 
results,  as  under : 

Kichiomi \  =  2''  4'"  26"- 7. 

An  analogous  process  is  taken  for  Muyongo,  where  the  latitude 
0=.  0'  30'  41"  N.  was  obtained  by  two  circunnueridians  (Obs.  Xos.  12 
and  13)  observed  on  going;  introducing  this  value  in  the  calculation  of  the 
longitude,  for  which  there  are  two  series  of  altitudes  on  going  and  two  on 
returning,  we  get : 

Going  : 

Misongc— Obs.  No.  14 \  =  2''  S-"  SG'^-.d  E.G. 

„         15  „  =  55*''  8     ,, 

Returning  : 

Misongo.— Ob.s.  No.  97 \  =  2''  3"  .5.5^-4  E.G. 

98  „=  .54-6     „ 

or  taking  the  simple  mean  : 

Misongc X  =  2''  3™  SS''- 6  E.G. 

Thus  we  get  a  third  test  regarding  the  practical  value  of  the  daily 
corrections  adopted  for  the  chronometer. 

And  since  the  results  of  longitude  were  repeatedly  concordant  in  a  measure 
greater  than  had  lieen  e.^pected,  we  may  proceed  to  the  calculation  of  the 
elements  of  position  for  all  the  other  points  determined  during  the  expedition, 
being  confident  of  incurring  no  serious  errors. 

BujoiKjti  (near  Lake  Isolt). — The  latitude  was  obtained  by  a  meriilian 
altitude  oliserved  on  the  outward  journey  (Obs.  No.  1),  and  the  longitude 
by  two  series  of  altitudes  also  on  going  (Obs.  Nos.  2  and  3)  : 

19th  May  0  =  0°  2.5'  44"  N \  =  2"  4-"  5.3- 4  E.G. 

„  =  2   7    54-5   „ 


Bujongo     0  =  0°  25'  44"  N \  =  2'>7°'53-9  „ 

(Lake  Isolt)  ,,  =  31-58' 28"    „ 

319 


Appendix  B. 

Bimbi/c. — Latitude  determined  liy  two  meridian  altitudes  (going  and 
returning,  Obs.  Nos.  4  and  107)  ;  longitude  l\v  two  series  of  altitudes  (return, 
01)S.  Nos.  108  and  109). 

20th  May  '■^  =  0-  31'  .56"  N. 

10th  August         „=0    31  .57     „ 

11th         „  \  =  2''  7»26=-l  E.G. 

11th         „  „  =  2    7    26-4      „ 


Biml.ye  0  =  0°  31' .56"  N.    ...  \  =  2"  T"  26»- 3      „ 

„  =  3r5r3-t"      „ 

Kijciiiiila. — Latitude    determined    by    a    meridian    altitude    (leturn,    Obs. 
No.  106),  the  longitude  being  estimated  at  2''  6"  E.G. 

Kijcinnhi. — 9th  August  0  =  0°  35'  55"  N. 

MmhiiiM. — Latitude  obtained  by  a  meridian  altitude  (going,  Obs.  No.  5), 
and  longitude  by  two  series  of  altitudes  (going,  01)s.  Nos.  6  and  7) : 

23rd  May    0  =  0    36'  19"  N.        ...        X  =  2"  5"' -iO'- 3  E.G. 

„  =  2    5    40  •  9      „ 


Muduma      0=- 0°  36' 19"  N.        ...      X  =  2    5    40  •  6      „ 

„=   31    25'  9" 

Kadha. — Position  determined  on  the  return  :  Latitude,  by  a  meridian 
altitude  (Olis.  No.  103);  longitude  by  two  series  of  altitudes  (Obs.  Nos.  104 
and  105) : 

8th  August  0  =  0    40' 34"  N.      ...       X  =  2'>  5-"  53^- 2     E.G. 

8th       „  „  =  2    5    50-8       „ 


Kasiba  0  =  0°  40' 34"  N.       ...      X  =  2'"  5"  52^- 0 

,,  =  31    28'0" 

Lwaiinttukuza. — Latitude  obtained  by  two  meridian  altitudes,  one  going  the 
other  returning  (Obs.  Nos.  8  and  102) ;  longitude  by  a  series  of  altitudes  going 
(Obs.  No.  9)  : 

24th  .May  0  =  0°  31'    4"  N.     ...        X  =  2"  .5™  1 6^- 5     E.G. 

7th  August  „  =  0    30  27    „ 


Lwamutukuza      0  =  0°  30' 45"  N.     ...        x  =  2''  5"°  16=-5 

,,  =  31    19'  7' 

320 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 

Kaiho. — Latitude  determined  by  ;i  circummeridiiui  altitude  going  and  four 
returning  (Obs.  Nos.  18,  91,  92,  93,  and  94);  longitude  results  from  two  series 
of  altitudes  on  return  (Obs.  Nos.  95  and  96)  : 

27th  May  0  =  0°  29'  56"  N. 

2nd  August  „  =  0   30   36    „        ...      ,\  =  2"  S"  7«- 8  E.G. 

2nd       „  „..0   30  09    „        ...      „  =  2    3    7-9     „ 

2nd       „  „  =  0   29   26    „ 

2nd       ;,  „  =  0   30   U    „ 

Kaibo  0  =  0°  30'    4"  N .       ...      \  =  2'"  3""  7"- 9  E.G. 

,,  =  30°  46' .58"     „ 

Bniiti. — Using  the  latitude  estimated  at  0  =  0  39'  30 ",  the  longitude  is 
obtained  liy  two  series  of  altitudes  observed  on  the  return  (Obs.  Nos.  89  and  90) : 

1st  Atigust  \  =  2"  2""  34»- 3     E.G. 

l«t      „  „  =  2    2    34-8       „ 


Butiti \  =  2"  2""  37"- 5 

„  =  30°  38'  37" 

IhiiDona. — With  the  approximate  value  \  =  2''  l""  17^  East  Greenwich,  the 
latitude  is  calculated  by  a  meridian  altitude  observed  on  going  (01)s.  No.  24)  : 
1st  June.— Dmvona 0=0°  33'  25"  N. 

Bu/aniika. — Latitude   determined    on    the  return    liy  a   meridian    altitude 
(Obs.  No.  70) ;  and  longitude  by  two  series  of  altitudes  (Obs.  Nos.  71  and  72) : 

20th  July  0  =  0°  26' 33"  N.      ...       \  =  2M"'4»-1     E.G. 

20th     „  „  =  2    14-6       „ 


Butanuka  0  =  0°  26' 33"  N.      ...       X  =  2'>  1""  4''-4       „ 

,,  =  30°  16' 6"        „ 

Bikmujn. — Longitude  oljtained  by  two  series  of  altitudes  on  going,  using 
0=0°  20'  20"  N.  obtained  from  the  maps  (Obs.  Nos.  30  and  31) : 

4thJiuie A  =  21' 0'"  27^-0  E.G. 

=  20     27-2 

XaUtawa. — Obtaining  from  the  maps  the  latitude  0  =  0°  20'  20"  N.,  the 
longitude  was  had  by  a  single  series  of  altitudes  at  the  artificial  horizon 
without  roof  (Obs.  No.  61) : 

Nakitawa  \  =  2'>  0™  19^-6  E.G. 

,,  =  30°  4' 54"        „ 

321  Y 


Appendix  B. 


Summary  of  the  geographical  positions  obtained  Ijy  astronomic  observations 
taken  during  the  outward  and  return  journey  between  Entebbe  and  Bujongolo. 


Places. 

Geographical  Position. 

Latitude  North. 

Longitude 

E.G. 

Bujongo  (Lake  Isolt)          

0     25     44 

31     58 

28 

Bimbye 

0     31     56 

31     51 

34 

Kijennila      ... 

0     35     55 

Muduma       ...          ...            

0     36     19 

31     25 

9 

Kasiba 

0     40     34 

31     28 

0 

Lwamutukuza          

0     30     45 

31      19 

7 

Kichiomi 

0     31     20 

31       6 

40 

Muyongo 

0     30     41 

30     58 

54 

Kaibo           

0     30       4 

30     46 

58 

Butiti           

30     38 

37 

Fort  Portal 

0     39     28 

30     23 

7 

Duwona 

0     33     25 

Butanuka     ... 

0     .36     33 

.30     16 

6 

Kasongo       

30     15 

9 

Ibanda 

0     19     59 

30     10 

48 

Bihunga       

30       6 

46 

Nakitawa 

30       4 

54 

Bujongolo    ... 

0     20     23 

30       1 

34 

322 


REGISTEII    OF    THE 
ASTRONOMIC    0B8Eli\'ATI0NS. 


32;?  y       .J 


Appendix  B. 


KEGISTER  OF   THE 


Civil  Date, 
190H. 


O 


Observer. 


Place. 


Latitude 

JS. 


S  d 

C  ''^ 

^  9 

"M 

^1 

Locgitiide 

Barom. 

■^^    . 

n^ 

E.G. 

mm. 

*0     3 

f^-! 

fc    o 
7    M 

""HJ 

.2=^ 

r  O 

en    u 

H^ 

H  ^ 

^-^ 

19th  Mav 


H.R.H. 


201  h  May 
23rd  May 


24tli  May 


25tli  May 


26tli  May 


10 
11 

12 

13 

14 


Bu.iongo 
(nr.Lake 
Isolt) 


Bimbye  ... 
Muduma 


Lwamutvi- 
kuza 


Kichiomi 


Muyongo 


Wonyongo 


h.  m.  8. 
2    7  54 


0  25  4i 


2     7  26 
2     5  41 


0  36  19 


0  30  45 


0  31  20 


0  30  41 


2     5  16 


2     4  27 


2     3  56 


663 

9 

661 

0 

)> 

666 

8 

658 

0 

654  -5 

11 

657 

■3 

656  0 

653 

•55 

652 

•0 

6.58 

•0 

657 

•0 

} 

26  0 


31  0 


24  0     29  0 


26  0 
22-0 
23  0 


22-0 


22  0 


28-0 


28-0 
23-5 
24-5 


29  0 


22  0 


24-0 


24  -0      24  0 


25  0 


25-0 


OA 

OAa 

OAv 

OA 

OA 

OAa 

OAv 

OA 

OAa 

OA 

OAa 

OA 

OAa 

OAv 

324 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 
ASTEOXO.MIC  OBSERVATIONS. 


Conditions 

under  whicli 

the  Aster 

was 
observed. 

Instrumental 
Height. 

Instrument 

of 
Correction. 

Hour  of  the 
Chronometer. 

-  u 

o  5> 

u  o 
■a  o 

Si 

Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 

Results. 

Sun  0       PS 

o           r        It 

141     6  20 

+  1     0 

h.    m.     s. 

h.    m.    s. 

(f>=0"25'44"N. 

Sun  11  to  W 

53     0     0 
52  40     0 
52  20     0 

+  1  20 

10  38  31  -0 

1 

+  3  16  19-7 

1        h.    m.     p. 
U=2     7  53-4E.G 

Sun  0  to  W 

52     0     0 
51  40     0 
51  20     0 

+  1  20 

10  40  36  0 

41  22-5 

42  7  0 

1 

+  3  16  19-7 

"I        h.    m.     8, 
•A  =  2     7  54-5  E.G. 

Sun  <>      PS 

140  52  30 

+  1  20 

.... 

.()  =  0"31'56"Jf. 

Sun  0      P.S 

139  47  20 

+  1  40 

<^=0°36'19"  X. 

Sun  I>  lo  W 

50  20     0 
50     0     0 
49  40     0 

+  1  45 

10  40  31  -0 
47  17  0 
47  58  -5 

1 

+  3  16  !  1  -2 

h.    m.     s. 
U  =  2     5  40-3  E.G. 

Sun  0  to  W 

49  20     0 
49     0     0 
4S  40     0 

+  1   45 

10  48  J2  -0 

49  24  -5 

50  8  0 

1 

+  3  16  11  -2 

"1         li.    m.     s. 

Va  =  2     5  40 -9  E.G. 

Sun  0       PS 

1.39  14  20 

+  1     0 

(;>  =  0'31'     4"N. 

Sun  11  to  W 

43  20     0 
43     0     0 
42  40     0 

+  1     0 

U     1  .57  0 

2  48 -0 

3  18  0 

1 

+  3  16     9  0 

!i.   m.     s. 
K  =  -l     5  16-5  E.G. 

Sun  0       PS 

133  50  20 

+  2     0 

((.  =  0°30'47"X. 

Sun  11  to  W 

52     0     0 
51  40     0 

+  10 

10  43  59  0 
44  J  3  0 

1 

+  3  16     6-9 

h.   m.     s. 
■\  =  2    4  27 -3  E.G. 

Sun    0    Cir- 
cunnn. 

138  28  40 

+  1  50 

16  35  25  0 

I 

+  3  16     5-2 

^  =  0   30' 51"  N. 

J, 

138  25  49 

„ 

16  40  30  0 

1 

+  3   16     5-2 

(|)  =  0''30'30"N. 

Sun  0  to  W 

44     0     0 
43  40     0 
43  20     0 

+  2  10 

11     1  48-5 

2  33  0 

3  18  0 

1 

+  3  16     4-8 

li.  m.    s. 
.\  =  2     3  .36-5  E.G. 

Sun  il  to  W 

43     0     0 
42  40     0 
42     0     0 

+  2  10 

11     4  00-0 

4  43  -0 

5  29  0 

1 

+  3  16     4-8 

h.  m.    8. 
.\  =  2     3  55 -8  E.G. 

.325 


Appendix  B. 


CiTil  Date,      Z 
1906.  J 


Observer.  Place. 


Latitude     Lonaitude     Barom. 
X.  E.G.  mm. 


21 


ill 

S   o 

P  = 

1^ 

(5^ 

27th  May 

16     H.K.H. 

Kaibo 

r        ,        „ 

h.  m.  j. 
2     3     8 

652 -0 

0 

24-0 

23-6 

OA 

3l5t  May 

•1 

17 
IS 
19 
20 

Fort 

Portal 

» 

0  39  28 

»» 

610 -0 

22-0 

21-0 

OAa 
OAv 

OAa 
OAv 

2     1  32        641  -0      22  -0     21  -0     OA 


1st  Jane 
2nd  June 


3rd  June 


23 
24 


26 


28 


29 


Duwona  ....  2     1  17        636  4     24  "O     24  "0     OA 

I 

Kazongo         0  21  30  ...  649  -0  ,  26  "0     27  "0     OA  A 


OAv 


Ibanda 


0  19  59 


2    0  43  '     652-8     26-5 

I 


25  5      OA 


650-0     25  -0     23  -0     OA  A 


„        OA  V 


326 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Condilions 
under  which 

the  Aster 
was 

observed . 

Instrumental 
Height. 

Instrument 

of 
Correction. 

Hour  of  tlie 
Chronometer. 

43 

Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 

Results. 

C                /            II 

.     „ 

h.  ni.    3. 

h.  m.      s. 

Sun  o     Cir- 

138     (i     0 

+  1  40 

6  36  29  0 

1 

+  3  16     8-2 

.(>  =  0° 

29'  56"  N. 

ciimni. 

Siiti  t)   to  E 

36  14  40 

+  2  20 

1  .58     5-0 

1 

+  3  15  .54-9 

1        '•• 
U  =  2 

36  35  W) 
36  52  20 

58  50-0 

59  28  0 

m     s. 
1  32  -2  E.G. 

37     2  40 

59  50  0 

Sun  0   to  E 

37  20  40 

37  45  40 

38  4  20 
38  15  40 

+  2  20 

2     0  28  0 

1  24  0 

2  3  0 
a  29-5 

1 

+  3  15  •54-9 

Y" 

m.     s. 
1   31  -8  E.G. 

Sun  0  to  E 

54  20     0 

54  40     0 

55  0     0 
55  20     0 

+  2  20 

2  37  37  0 

38  19  -5 

39  6  0 
39  49  -5 

1 

+  3  15  .54-9 

iji 

m.    s. 
1  :u  1  K  .G. 

Sun  0  to  E 

60     9     0 

60  18  20 

61  14  20 

+  2  20 

2  50  22  0 
50  44-0 
52  47  -0 

1 

+  3  15  .j4-8 

h. 
U  =  2 

III.      s. 

1  34  -7  E.G. 

Sun  0     Cir- 

134  31  40 

+  1     0 

6     8  50-0 

1 

+  3  15  55  0 

(f)  =  0" 

38'  45"  X. 

ciimiii. 

)» 

134  54  20 

+  1     0 

6  11     0  0 

1 

9J 

<(>  =  0 

39'  49"  X. 

») 

135     1  40 

+  1     0 

6  11  59  0 

1 

»» 

<))=!0' 

39'  7"  N. 

Sun  0       PS 

136  38  40 

+  2  20 

<()  =  0° 

33'  25"  N. 

Sun  0  to  W 

42  20     0 
42     3  40 
41  51  20 

+  1   20 

11     8  35  0 
9  12  0 
9  38  0 

1 

+  3  15  49-9 

h. 

ni.     s. 
1     0  -8  EG. 

Sun  0  to  W 

41  28  20 
41  18     0 
41  51  40 

+  1   20 

11  10  29  0 

10  52  -0 

11  51  0 

1 

+  3  15  49  9 

y. 

m.     s 
i    0-4  E.G. 

Sun  0       PS 

135  39  20 

+  1  30 

^  =  0° 

19'  26"  N. 

Sun  0  to  W 

44     0     0 
43  40     0 
43  20     0 

+  1   30 

11     5  16  0 
6     10 

6  44-0 

1 

+  3  15  47-8 

y 

m.     s. 
0  44-0  E.G. 

Sun  0  to  W 

43     0     0 
42  40     0 
42  20     0 

+  1  30 

11     7  30-0 
8  12  0 
8  56-0 

1 

+  3  15  47-7 

1     ''■ 

U  =  2 

m.     s. 
0  43  1  E.G. 

327 


Appendix  B. 


Cifil  ])ate, 
1906. 


Observer. 


Place. 


Lalilude 

N. 


2  c 

rz  o 

a  2 

<] 

ct_>  .2 

Longitude 

Barom. 

'2 

<0 

1^ 

E.G. 

mm. 

o 

o   = 

=  .2 

n 

.2=^ 

2  S 

?0 

H  = 

E-"^ 

^^ 

4tli  June 


lltli  June 


17th  .June 
27tli  June 


28th  June 


30 

31 

32 

33 

31. 

35 

36 
37 

38 

39 

40 


H.E.H. 


Bihunga 


Cora.  Cagni 


Bujongolo 


0  20  20 


0  20  23 


0  20  23 


h.  m.    8. 


2     0     6 


611-0 


4S8-4 


488-3 
489-2 


490-0 


20-0 


6  0 


5-0 
5-0 


7-0 


20-0 


4-0 


5-0 
6  0 


6-8 


1»  )) 


OAA 

CAv 

OAa 

OAv 

OAa 

OAv 

OA 
OAA 

OAv 

OAA 

OAv 


328 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Conditions 

under  wliicli 

the  .Aster 

■\vas 
observed. 

Instrumental 
Height. 

Instrument 

of 
Correction. 

Hour  of  the 
Chronometer. 

O    4> 

5 

Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 

Results. 

Sun  0  to  W 

47  20     0 
47     0     0 
46  40     0 

+  0  50 

h.  m.    s. 

10  .58  22  -0 
£9     6  0 
53  49  0 

1 

h.  m.     a. 
+  3  15  45-7 

h.  ni.     s. 
A  =  2    0  27  0  E.G. 

S.m  0  to  W 

46  20     0 
46     0     0 
45  40     0 

+  0  50 

11     0  34  0 

1  18-0 

2  2  0 

1 

+  3  15  45-7 

h.  ni.     s. 
■  \  =  2     0  27-2  E.G. 

Sun  0  to  AV 

P3  33  20 
63   14  40 
62  50  20 

+  1  25 

10  23  26  0 

24  9-0 

25  4  0 

1 

•    h.  ni.     s 
•  C,„,=  +5  15  39  1 

Sun  0  to  "W 

62  19  40 
62     8  40 
(!1   54  40 

+  1  25 

10  26  11  0 

26  39  0 

27  7-5 

1 

1                h.  m.     s. 
lC..,„=  +5  15  39  1 

Sun  11  to  \V 

60     0     0 
59  40     0 

+  1  25 

10  31  30  0 
32  14  0 

1 

.... 

,                h.  m.     s. 
.  C„„  =  +  5  15  35  -5 

Sun  0  to  W 

59  20     0 
59     0     0 

+  1  25 

10  33     0  0 
33  45  0 

1 

,                 li.  m.     3. 
•C„„=  +  5  15  .34-6 

Sun  0     PS 

133  22  23 

+  2  20 

,p  =  (f  19'50"N. 

Sun  11  to  E 

34  21     0 
34  38  40 

34  59     0 

35  14  30 
35  38  20 

+  3  40 

2     2  36  -5 

3  17  -5 

4  0  0 

4  36  0 

5  27  0 

1 

1                h.  ni.     s. 
yC„„=+5  15  33-2 
1 
J 

Sun  0  to  E 

36     9     0 
36  22  40 
36  35  40 

36  48     0 

37  4  10 

+  3  40 

2     6  36  -5 
7     6  0 

7  33  0 

8  0  0 
8  37  0 

1 

1                h.  m.     s. 
;.C„„=+5  15  31-9 

Sun  0  loE 

43     5  20 
43  17  20 
43  30  40 
43  47     0 
43  56  20 

+  3  20 

2  22     6-0 

22  33  0 

23  3-5 

23  380 

24  0  0 

1 

Ii.  m.     s. 
^C»„=+5  15  29-9 

1 

J 

Sun  0.  to  E 

44  26     0 

44  38  40 

45  0     0 
45  21     0 
45  41  50 

45  58  40 

46  22     0 

+  3  20 

2  25     5  0 

25  33  0 

26  18-0 

27  4  0 

27  50-0 

28  26  -0 

29  20-0 

1 

^1 

li.  m.     s. 
.C,„,=  +5  15  32-0 

J 

329 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 
1906. 

-a 

u 

o 

1 

u 
o 

i3 

3 

Observer. 

riacc. 

Latitude 

N. 

Longitude 
E.G. 

Baroui. 
mm. 

Thermom.       an. 
nexed  (Celsius). 

Temp,  of  the  Air 
(Celsius). 

P 

O        /        It 

li.  m.  8. 

o 

q 

29th  June 

41 

Com.  C.igni 

Bujongolo 

0  20  23 

489-7 

5-6 

5-6 

OA  A 

>. 

42 

n 

'» 

ij 

■■ 

" 

" 

OA  V 

9tli  July 

43 

S.A.R. 

2    0     6 

489-5 

13  0 

no 

OA 

10th  July 

44 

Com.  Cugni 

t 

»» 

488-5 

8-2 

9  0 

OA 

»» 

45 

»» 

»> 

11 

46 

)» 

:i 

2    0    6 

488-5 

8-2 

9-0 

OA 

11th  .July 

47 

HR.H. 

}) 

0  20  23 

489-7 

6  0 

6-0 

OAA 

It 

48 

" 

»l 

)i 

)) 

" 

)> 

OAv 

.. 

49 

J) 

>J 

2     0     6 

488-5 

7  0 

6  0 

OA 

■• 

50 

>• 

■' 

'> 

>) 

>i 

■■ 

)1 

>J 

51 

" 

" 

JJ 

>' 

" 

}) 

J) 

52 

!) 

•> 

» 

» 

•• 

" 

)) 

»> 

53 

)) 

ii 

)» 

J) 

)> 

)) 

J» 

» 

54 

" 

)i 

)> 

>' 

n 

J» 

»» 

330 


I.- — Astronomic  Observations. 


o 

Zi 

11 

Conditions 

under  which 

the  Aster 

was 
observed. 

Instrumental 
Heisilit. 

Instrumenl 

of 
Correction. 

Hour  of  the 
Chronometer. 

Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 

Results. 

1" 

O               /        // 

/     // 

h.   m.     s. 

h.  m.     s. 

Sun  0  to  E 

62  46  40 

+  1  .52-5 

3     6  12  0 

1 

> 

63     3  40 

0  50-0 

h.  m.     s. 

63  17     0 

7  19  0 

■  C„„=  +5  15  26-8 

63  36     0 

8     3  0 

63  57     0 

8  50  -5 

J 

Sun  0  to  E 

64  37     0 

64  53     0 

65  17  40 
65  36     0 
65  47     0 

+  1  52-5 

3   10  19  -5 

10  53  o 

11  52  0 

12  28  0 
12  58  0 

1 

h.  m.     s. 
-C„„=+5  15  29-4 

Sun  0     PS 

136  17  40 

+  1     0 

<t>=0''  20'  55"  N. 

Sun  0   Cir- 

135     9  49 

+  10 

6  39     5  -0 

1 

+  3   13  26-0 

<p  =  0=  20'  01"  Jf. 

cumm. 

Sun  0   Cir- 

135  22  20 

+  1     0 

6  41  21-0 

1 

+  3  15  26  0 

f  =  0'  19'  ■13"  N. 

cumm. 

Sun  0  to  E 

87     0     0 
87  20     0 
87  40     0 

+  1  50 

3  49  42-0 

50  26  0 

51  140 

2 

h.  m.     s. 
•  C„„=  +5  15  33-0 

Sun  0  to  E 

89  40     0 

90  0     0 
90  20     0 

+  1  ?0 

3  55  58  -0 

56  44  -0 

57  31  -3 

2 

h.  ni.     s. 
C„„=+5  15  32-3 

Sun  0^  Cir- 

136     8  40 

+  1  50 

6  34  14-5 

(()=0°  21'  12"  X. 

cumm. 

Sun  0   Cir- 

130  42     0 

+  1  50 

6  41  34-5 

,(,  =  0°  20'  58"  N. 

cumm. 

Sun  0  Cir- 

136  46     0 

+  1   50 

6  51  29  0 

,f)  =  0'  21'  13"  X. 

cuuim. 

Sun  0   Cir- 

136  43     0 

+  1  .50 

6  53  38  -5 

0  =  0°  20'  43"  X. 

cumm. 

Sun  0^  Cir- 

136  42  20 

+  1  50 

6  .54  12  0 

,;>=0°  20'  4G"X. 

eumni. 

Sun  0  Cir- 

136  41     0 

+  1   50 

6  54  44  -5 

0  =  0-  20'  32"  X. 

eumni. 

331 


Appendix  B. 


U 

£  a 

Civil  Date, 
19U6. 

o 

t 

o 
s 

3 

Observer. 

Place. 

Latitude 
N. 

Longitude 
JC.G. 

Barom. 
mm. 

Thermom.        an- 
nexed (Celsius). 

1  Temp,  of  tlio  Ai 
(Celsius). 

~  S 

o  o 

■aw 

11 

O          /          If 

h.  m.  s. 

o 

o 

12th  July 

55 

Com.  Ca^i 

Bujongolo 

0  20  23 

a 

56 

H.E.H. 

n 

" 

2     0     6 

489-2 

9-0 

9-0 

OA  A 

n 

57 
58 

)1 

)> 

H 

OA  A 
OA  A 

)> 

59 

" 

J) 

JI 

J» 

1) 

»» 

>] 

OA  A 

» 

60 

Com.  Cagni 

" 

" 

■• 

489  0 

7-0 

7-0 

OA 

14tli  July 

61 

)) 

Nakitavva 

0  20  20 

562  -85 

17-0 

15  0 

OA 

leth  July 

62 

ji 

Ibanda  ... 

0  10  50 

650  0 

22  0 

22  0 

OA 

17th   July 

63 
64 

'.i 

>) 

)> 

652  0 

22-0 

Jt 

21-0 

OA  A 
OA  V 

332 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Conditions 
under  which 

the  Aster 
was 

observed. 

Instrumental 
Height. 

[nstrument 

of 
Correction. 

Hour  of  the 

Clironometcr. 

- 

o  © 

a 
u  o 
©  c 

1^: 

Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 

Results. 

BAG   81— 

1 
O         /         // 

,     „ 

h.  ni.      s. 
in  U    4  0 

1 

h.  m.    s. 
+  5  15  32-2 

h.  m.      s. 
\  =  2  00  6-3  E.a. 

Emersion 
from     t  he 
lunar  disk  i 

on  the  mean 
local  lime 

Sun  0  to  E 

52  40     0 
5S     0     0 

53  20     0 

+  3  50 

2  44  40-0 

45  23  0 

46  9  0 

1 

h.  m.     s. 
•  C,„,  =  5  15  34-9 

Sun  0  to  E 

53  "iO     0 

54  0     0 
54  20     0 

+  3  50 

2  46  53  -5 

47  37  0 

48  32-0 

1 

h.  m.     s. 
•  C„„=5  15  33-7 

Sun  0  to  E. 

55  40     0 

56  0     0 

56  20     0 

+  4  15 

2  51  20  0 
52     4  -5 
52  49  0 

1 

h.  m.     s. 
•  C„„=+5  15  32-4 

Sun  0  to  E. 

57    0    0 
57  20     0 
57  40     0 

+  4  15 

2  54  18  0 
55     1  1) 
55  44-5 

1 

"1                li.  m.     s. 
lC,„,=  +5  15  32-9 

Sun  0  to  E. 

56  56     0 
55  12     0 
55  28     0 
55  40     0 

55  55     0 

56  15     0 

+  2  45 

2  49  42  0 
.50  16  0 

50  52  0 

51  20  0 

51  53  '5 

52  36  0 

1 

h.   ni.     9. 
!-C„„=+5  15  34-4 

J 

Sun  0  to  W. 

65     4  40 
64     8     0 
63     5     0 

+  1  25 

10  30     2  0 
32     7  0 
34  26  0 

1 

+  3  15  26-4 

1         li.  m.     s. 
U-2     0  19-(>  E.G. 

Sun  0  t )  W. 

27  23     0 
27     5     0 
26  41     0 
26  17  40 
25  52  40 

+  1   50 

U  52  31  0 

53  9  0 

54  2  0 

54  54  0 

55  46-5 

1 

+  3  15  23  3 

1 

1         li.  m.     s. 

)-\  =  -2     0  43-91E.a. 

1 
J 

Sun  0  to  E. 

44  51     0 

45  9     0 
45  27  40 
45  46  40 
45  59  20 

+  1  50 

2  26  58  0 

27  37  -0 

28  18-5 

29  0-5 
29  28  -5 

1 

+  3  15  22-4 

1         li.  m.     s. 
J-A  =  2     0  41-5  E.Gr. 
1 
J 

Sun  0  to  E. 

46  23  20 
46  42     0 

46  58     0 

47  8  40 
47  30     0 

+  1  40 

2  30  19  0 

30  59  0 

31  34-5 

31  59-5 

32  43  o 

1  1 

+  3   15  22-4 

1 

1        h.  ni.     3. 

Y\  =  2     0  42-5  E.G 

J 

333 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Hule, 
1906. 

o 

3 

Observer. 

Place. 

Latitude 
N. 

Longitude 
E.G. 

Barom. 
mm. 

o 

SI 

£  o 

z  ° 

11 
1^ 

O          /          // 

h.    m.   s. 

o 

0 

17th  July 

65 

Com.  Cagui 

Ibanda 

2     0  43 

6.51  -6 

2G-0 

29  0 

OA 

18th  July 

66 

9) 

?» 

)» 

652  -0 

23-0 

17  0 

O.A^ 

19th  July 

67 

)» 

)) 

») 

650  -95 

25  0 

27-0 

OA 

»J 

68 
69 

HK.H. 

)) 

0  19  59 

649  -45 

24-0 

23  0 

OA  A 
OA  V 

20tli  July 

70 

.. 

Bulanuta 

2     14 

645-0 

24  0 

24  0 

OA 

J) 

71 

>' 

" 

0  26  33 

644  05 

24  0 

24  0 

OA  A 

" 

72 

)» 

>» 

»1 

»• 

J> 

]i 

OA  V 

21st  July 

73 

)} 

Fort 

Portal 

0  39  28 

2     1  32 

638  G 

21  0 

21  0 

OA  A 

J) 

74 

;) 

» 

» 

S> 

1) 

J» 

)> 

OA  A 

22nd  July 

75 

M 

„ 

J» 

641-0 

19  0 

20  0 

OA 

)» 

76 

jt 

»l 

0  39  28 

J> 

636  0 

14  0 

12-8 

OA  A 

s» 

77 

i> 

J1 

)> 

'• 

•J 

)) 

>j 

OA  V 

23rtl  July 

78 

:j 

" 

■• 

'• 

641  7 

17-5 

17  0 

OA  A 

)» 

79 

" 

'• 

j» 

■• 

)> 

" 

fl 

OA  V 

24th  Julj 

80 

J) 

" 

>> 

)> 

640  1 

18-0 

16-5 

OA  A 

334 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Contlitions 

under  which 

tlie  After 

was 
observfid. 


Instrumental 
Hei"ht. 


Instrument 

of 
Correction. 


Hour  of  tlie 
Clironometer. 


12; 


Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 


Results. 


Sun 

0 

PS 

Sun 

0 

PS 

Sun 

0 

PS 

Sun 

o 

toW 

Suu 

0 

to  VV 

Sun 

0 

PS 

Suu 

0 

to  W 

Sun  0  to  W 


Sun  •)  to  W 


Sun  0  to  W 


137  27     0 

137  47  30 

138  7  40 
55  40    0 

52  20     0 

139  46     0 

51  22  40 

51  7  40 
50  50  20 

50  35  40 
50  24  0 
50     3     0 

54  11  40 

53  43  0 
53  52  40 
53     7  20 

52  46  40 
47  39  40 


Sun  0       PS  :  140  57  20 
Sun  O  to    E 


SunOtj    E 


Sun  0  to    E 


Sun  Ota    E 


1  Sun  0  to  E 


49  36  40 

49  53  20 

50  4  20 

50  26  0 
50  38  40 
50  51  20 

49  20     0 

49  40     0 

50  0     0 

50  20     0 

50  40     0 

51  0     0 

55  40     0 

56  0  0 
56  20     0 


+  2  55 
+  1  30 
+  1  37-5 
+  1  50 
+  1  50 
+  1  30 
+  2  10 

+  2  10 

+  1  20 

+  1  20 

+  2  20 
+  1  20 

+  1  20 

+  1  30 

+  1  30 

+  1  50 


10  49  26  -8 
10  56  43 -0 


10  58  52  -0 

10  59  25  0 

11  0     1-5 


11 


0  34  -0 

0  59  o 

1  44-5 


10  52  .54-5 

53  55  0 

54  32  0 

55  13  0 

10  55  57  -o 

11  7  40 


2  35  44  0 
36  20  0 
30  44  -5 

2  37  32  -5 
3S  0  0 
38  26-5 

2  35     5-5 

35  44  0 

36  26  0 

2  37  H  -5 

37  53-5 

38  36  -5 

2  48  3.>  -5 
49  19-0 
CO     0  0 


h.  m.     s. 


+  3  15  18-8 


+  3  15  18  S 


+  3  15  17  -3 


+  3  15  17-3 


<;)=0°20'37"N. 

<(>  =0°  20'    4"  K. 

<p^0°  19'47"N. 

h.  m.  s. 
A.  =  2    0  42  -7  E.G. 

h.  m.  s. 
A.  =  2    0  43 -5  E.G. 

(f)  =  0°  26'  33"  N. 

h.     111.        s. 

A  =  2     ]     4-1  E.G. 


1  h.    m.     s. 

U  =  2     1    4 -6  E.G. 


h.    m.     s. 
.K,  =  +3  15  16  1 


}., 


h.   m.     s. 
+  3  15  15-9 


<(,  =  0'  39'  59"  N. 


V 


h.    m.     s. 
+  3  15  17 -5 


1  ll.     111.      s. 

V  K,  =  +3   15  16  5 

1  h.   m.     s. 

^Ki  =  +  3  15  18-8 
J 

h.    111.     s. 
=  +3  15  20  1 


h.  m.    s. 
K,  =  3  15  22-6 


335 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 
1906. 


Obs 


Place. 


Latitude 
X. 


Longitude 
E.G. 


Barom. 
mm. 


3W 


^-  M       .S  ca 


-5  2- 


24tli  Jiiiy 

81 

27tli  July 

82 

■' 

83 

28tli  July 

84 

•' 

85 

)1 

86 

31st  JiUy 

87 

» 

88 

1st  August 

89 

" 

90 

2nd  August 

91 

•' 

92 

1) 

93 

•> 

94 

ii.R.ir. 


Fort 

Portal 


Butiti 


Kaibo 


O         I         II 


0  39  28 


0  39  28 


0  39  30 


h.    m.    8. 

2     1  32 

640  1 

" 

635  0 

)) 

J) 

'■ 

636-0 

635  0 

t» 

636  0 

" 

■' 

645-7 

3) 

2     3     8 

652-0 

18  0     16  -5  I  OA  V 


17-0  !  10 -0 


OA  A 


„     !      „  OAv 

16  -0  !  14  -0  I  OA  A 

„           „  j  OA  V 

i 

24  -0     23  0  OA  - 

15 -6      15 -O  OA  A 

„     !       „  OA  V 

19  -0  !  18  -0  OA  A 


„      OAv 


24  0     24-0     OA- 


*  The  Chronometer 


336 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Conditions 

under  which 

the  Aster 

was 
observed. 


Instrumental 
Height. 


Instrument 

of 
Correction 


Hour  of  the 
Chronometer. 


°  a 


15 


Absolute 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 


Results. 


56  40  0 

57  O  0 
57  20  0 

62     0  0 

61  40  0 

61  20  0 

60  40  0 

60  20  0 

60     0  0 

51     0  0 

51  20  0 

51  40  0 

52  0  0 
52  20  0 
52  40  0 


Sun  O      PS      142  25  40 


Sun  0  to  E 


Sun  0  to  W 


Sun  O  to  W 


Sun  O  to  £ 


Sun  0  to  E 


Sun  0  to  W 


Sun  0  to  W 


Sun  0  to  W 


Sim  O  to  W 


Sun    0   Cir- 
cumm. 

Sun    0    Cir- 
eumm. 

Sun    0    Cir- 
cumm. 


59  40  0 

59  20  0 

59     0  0 

58  40  0 

58  20  0 

58     0  0 

52  20  0 

52     0  0 

51  20  0 

51     0  0 

50  40  0 

.50  20  0 

50     0  0 

143     1  40 


142  51  20 

142  31  40 


I  Sun    O    Cir-  j  142  21     0 
,       cumm.        I 
remained  unregulated. 


/      // 
+  1  50 


+  0  50 


+  0  50 


+  0  30 


+  0  30 


+  2  20 
+  1  30 


+  1  30 


+  0  40 


+  0  40 


+  1  .30 


h.     m.     s. 
2  50  46  -5 

51  27-5 

52  12-0 

10  19  26  0 
20  9  0 
20  58-5 

10  22  9  -5 
23  2-0 
23  46-5 

2  20  17  -5 

20  59-0 

21  42  0 

2  22  25  0 
23  7  -5 
23  51  -5 


10  25     2  -5 

25  43-5 

26  26  0 

10  27   11  -5 

27  52  -0 

28  35  0 

10  39  46-5 

40  32  0 

41  55  5 

42  38  0 

10  43  21  0 
44  2-5 
44  45-5 

6  51  4-0 
6  52  10-0 
6  54  9-5 
6  55  25  *0 


h.  m. 


+  3  33  6-5 

+  3  33  6-5 

+  3  33  7-8 

+  3  33  7-8 

+  3  33  7-8 

+  3  33  7-8 


h.  m.   s. 
K,  =  +  3  15  22  -6 


Ii.  m,    B. 
K,  =  +  3  32  57  -6* 


h.  m.    s. 
/(,=  +3  32  51  0 


h.  m.   3. 
K,  =  +  3  32  59  -5 


h.  m.  s. 
If,  =  +  3  32  59  -9 

(f>  =  0'  39'  40"  N. 

h.  m.   s. 
K,  =  +  3  33  4  -8 

h.  m.    8. 
K,  =  +  3  33  4-7 


h.  m.    s. 
>-A  =  2  2  34-3  E.G. 


h.  ni.  s. 
U  =  2  2  34-8  E.G. 


^=0"  30'  36"    N. 
<(>  =  0°  30'    9"N. 
9=0°  29'  26"  N. 
(f)  =  0'  30'  14"  N. 


337 


Appendix  B. 


o 

i 

Civil  Date, 
1906. 

Observer. 

Place. 

Latitude 
N. 

Longitu'le 
E.G. 

Barom. 

mm. 

1 

2ml  August     95 


96 


6th  August 


97 

98 

99 

100 

101 


7th  August    102 

8th  August    103 
104 

105 

ilth  August  106 
10th  .\ugust  107 
mh  August     108 

,,  109 


H.E.H. 


Kaibo 


Mujongo 


Kichioiui 


Lwamutu- 
Ituza 

Kasiba 


Kijemula 
Bimbye 


0  30     4 


0  30  41 


0  31  20 


0  40  34 


0  31   ofi 


h.  m.  s. 


2     5  16 


2     5  52 


2     (5     0 
2     7  26 


0 

651-0 

23-0 

657-0 

25-0 

}i 

|>» 

653-0 

21-0 

652-0 

22-0 

>} 

i> 

657-0 

22-0 

658-0 

23  0 

657-0 

24-0 

)» 

J) 

661  0 

26-0 

662-0 

27-0 

664  -0 

26-0 

)» 

1 

23-0 


25  0 


24  0 
22-0 


23-0 

23-0 

24-0 


26  0 
26-0 
26-5 


i 
OAA 

OA  V 

OAA 

OAv 

OA 

OAA 

OAv 

OA 

OA 

OAA 

OAv 

OA 

OA 

OAA 

OAv 

^  Tlie  heiglits  marked  with  an  asterisk  were  taken  with  the  Magnaghi  circle  and 

338 


I. — Astronomic  Obsei-vations. 


1 

Conditions 
under  which  i 
the  Aster     [ 

was 
observed. 

[ugtrumental 
Height. 

[nstrument ' 

of 
Correction. 

Hour  of  the 
Chronometer. 

:l 

o  s 

o 

Absolut  e 
Correction  of 

the 
Chronometer. 

Results. 

^~' 

Sun  0  to  W. 

O             1             It 

51  20     0 
51     0     0 
50  40     0 

+  2  10 

h.  ni.       8. 
10  -41     9  0 

41  52  o 

42  32-5 

1 

h.  m.     9. 
+  3  33     8  0 

\- 

m.     8. 

3     7 -8  E.G. 

Sun  0  to  W. 

50  20    0 
50     0     0 
49  49     0 

+  2  10 

10  43  16  0 

43  58-5 

44  41-5 

X 

+  3  33     8  0 

\- 

jn.     s. 
3     7  -9  E.G. 

Sun  0  toW. 

20  58  20 
20  37  40 
20  21  40 

+  2  15 

11  44  33  0 

45  18-0 
45  52  0 

1 

+  3  33  12  C, 

h. 
A.  =  2 

ni .     9. 
3  55  -4  E.G. 

Sun  0  to  W. 

19  54  40 

+  2  15 

11  46  48() 

1 

+  3  33  12  -6 

li. 
A.  =  2 

m.     8. 

3  54  -6  E.G. 

Sun  0       PS 

146  50  30* 

-8     0 

^  =  0^  31'  .5.3"  N. 

Sun  0  to  \V. 

45     0     0 
44  40     0 
44  20     0 

+  0  40 

10  53  31  0 
54  12  -0 
54  52  -5 

1 

+  3  33  14  1 

Y- 

m.     8. 

4  26  -0  E.G. 

Sun  0  to  W. 

44     0     0 
43  40     0 
43  20     0 

+  0  40 

10  55  36  -0 

56  18  0 

57  1  0 

1 

+  3  33   14  1 

1    ''• 

U=2 

ra.     8. 
4  25  -9  E.G. 

Sun  0       PS 

147  13  30* 

+  1     0 

<;.  =  0° 

.W  27"  N. 

Sun  0      PS 

14«     6     0» 

0     0 

Sun  0  to  W 

54     0     0 
53  40     0 
53  20     0 

+  1  50 

10  33  16-0 

33  56  0 

34  40-5 

Sun  0  to  W 

53  00     0 
52  40     0 
52  20    0 

+  1  50 

10  35  23  0 
36     6  -5 
36  '!9  5 

Sun  0      PS 

148  30  45* 

0     0 

Sun  0      PS 

l.)8  55  4.5* 

+  1  30 

Sun  0  to  W 

51     0     0 
50  40    0 
50  20    0 

+  1  20 

10  37  49  -5 
38  31  0 
32  13  0 

Sun  0  to  W 

50     0    0 
49  40    0 
49  20     0 

+  1  20 

10  39  55  0 

40  37  0 

41  17-5 

+  3  33  17   1 


+  3  33  17   1 


11    +3  33  21  -6 


1  I    +3  33  21  •(! 


result  from  the  mean  of  thi-  readings  of  the  two  reflectors  of  the  instrument. 

.339 


(>)  =  (i°40'34"N. 

h.  ni.    8. 
x-2     5  53 -2  E.G. 


h,  m.    9. 
\  =  2     5  50 -8  E.G. 


(^=0'=35'55"N. 

.f)  =  0°31'57"N. 

h.  m.    9. 
A.  =  2     7  26 -4  E.G. 


h.  m.    s. 
\  =  2     7  26  -4  E.G. 


Z   2 


Appendix  B. 


1906.        >    o   I 

I    i   I 

3 

S5 


Place. 


Latitude  ,  Longitude    Barom.      _;  -^ 

N.  E.G.  mm.        £.= 


—     N 

s—  "E 

c  o 

5"" 


;  —        .  j;       =t 


16th  August    IM     H.R.H. 


°     '     "        h.    m.  s. 
Entebbe  0     311        2     9  47        667  5      22  0     24  0     O.VA 


111 


17th  August    112 


113 


666-0 


OAv 


17  0     24 1>     OA  A 


OAv 


340 


I. — Astronomic  Observations. 


Conditions 

under  which 

the  Aster 

was 
ohserred. 


Instrumental 
Height. 


Instrument 

of 
Correction. 


Hour  of  the 
Chronometer. 


Sun  0  to  W 

54     0 

0 

53  40 

0 

53  20 

0 

Sun  0  to  W 

.53     0 

0 

52  40 

0 

52  20 

0 

Sun  o  to  E 

68  2il 

0 

68  40 

0 

69     0 

0 

Sun  0  to  E 

69  20 

0 

69  40 

0 

70     0 

0 

h.    m.     s. 
0  10  28  25  5 

29     6-5 
29  48-0 


10  30  30  0 
31  13-0 
31  55  5 


-1  50 


■1  50 


^  %  Absolute 

=  =  I  Correction  of 

t  = ;  "'« 

.S  1. 1  Chronometer. 


Results. 


2  43  13  0 

43  55-0 

44  36  -2 


2  45  20  o 
46  0  5 
46  iJ  5 


— 

1             h.  m.    s. 
Ui=+3  33  29-9 

„_ 

1             h.  m.    a. 
l.ici=+3  33  28-5 

_ 

1            h.  m.    s. 
Ui=+3  33  25-2 

.._ 

"1            h.  m.    s. 
U,=  ^3  33  23-8 

341 


REGISTER 
OF  THE  CHRONOMETERS. 


Appendix  B. 


EEGISTER  OF 


Civil  Date, 
1906. 


i 

3 

"S 

.2  <X> 

s 

IS 

Su 

H 

■«] 

Chronoiii.  N.  1,  Lange  56509. 


c,. 


K,. 


k.. 


18tli  April  ... 
19tli  „  ... 
20th  „  .. 
20th      „      ... 


20th 

21st 

22nd 

23rd 

24th 

25th 

26th 

26th 
27th 
28th 
28th 
29th 
30th 

1st  May 

2n(l 

3rd 

4th 

4tli 


On  board 
Port  Said 


Port  Said  (comparison 
with  the  ehron.  of  the 
Police  Station) 


Port  Said 
On  board 


Jibuti      (comparison     with 
the  "  Elphinstone  ") 

Jibuti  .,  

Aden.... 

On  board 


Mombasa 


„  (comparison  with 

the   cbron.    of    the    Post 
Office) 


h.  ni. 
12  30 

9  30 

9  30 

14  0 

6  0 

o 

10  0 

25 

10  0 

28 

10  0 

29 

9  30 

30 

9  0 

16  0 

31 

7  30 

29 

9  0 

28-5 

9  0 

10  30 

9  0 

9  0 

30 

9  0 

31 

9  30 

8  0 

5  30 

h.  m.  s. 

9  15  0  0 

6  0  00 

6  21  0  0 

10  46  8  -5 

2  57  0  0 

6  33  0  0 

6  55  0  0 

6  36  0  0 

6  10  0  0 

5  55  0  0 

12  40  30  0 

3  59  30  0 

5  43  0  0 

5  54  0-0 

7  6  30  -0 

5  26  0  0 

5  53  30  0 

5  44  0  0 

6  19  0-0 

4  47  0-0 

2  12  0  0 

+  3  17  15-5 


8. 

-1  -29 


+  3   17     8-0 


+  3  IG  57  0 


^-1 


■34 


344 


I.— Astronomic  Observations. 


THE  CHRONOMETEKS. 


Chronom.  N.  2,  Lange  56520. 


Chrononi.  N.  3,  Longines  560229. 


Comparisons. 


C,. 


Ko. 


h.   m.    s. 
9    7  39  o 

5  .52  33 -5 

6  13  37  0 


2  49  36 
6  25  34 
6  47  30 
6  28  25 
6  2  19 
5  47  11 

3  51  34 
5  34  57 

5  45  49 

6  58  19 
5  17  41 
5  45  4 

5  35  26 

6  10  18 

4  38  6 
2  3  6 


h.  m.  8 
+  3  24  38  -5 


+  3  25  3-5 


!-  +4-31 


+  5-90 


+  3  25  52  0 


h.  m.  s. 

9  32  23  -5 

I 

6  17  19  0 
6  38  15  0 


h.  m.   p, 
+  3  0  0-5' 


3  14  14 

6  50  10 

7  12  0 
6  52  53 
6  26  46 
6  11  38 

4  16  0 

5  59  20 

6  10  4 

7  22  33 

5  41  l-l 

6  9  15 

5  59  38 

6  34  30 
5  2  21 
2  27  16 


-t  3  0  38  0 


+  6-46 


Ci-CV    C1-C3.    C.-C3. 


m.  s. 
+  7  20-5 

7  21-5 


in.  6.   I  m.  s. 
-17  23-5  -24  44  0 

17  19  0   24  40  o 


7  23  0  I  17  15  0  ,  24  38  0 


j.  +  7  -91 


7  23-8 

-17 

14-5 

-24  38-3 

7  26  0 

17 

lU-5 

24  36  -5 

7  30  0 

17 

0  7 

24  30-7 

7  34-8 

16  53  r, 

24  28-3 

7  41  ■(• 

16  46  -5 

24  27  -5 

7  49  0 

16 

38 -U 

24  27  0 

7  55  5 

-16 

30  0 

-24  25-5 

8  2o 

16 

20-5 

24  23  0 

8  10-5 

16 

4  0 

24  14-5 

8  11  0 

16 

3-7 

24  14  -7 

b  18-5 

15 

54  0 

24  12 -5 

8  25-5 

15 

45  0 

24  10  -5 

8  34  0 

15 

38-0 

24  12  0 

8  42-0 

15 

.30  0 

24  12  0 

8  53-5 

15 

21-5 

24  15  0 

8  54  0 

15 

16-8 

24  10  -8 

+  3  1  43  0- 


345 


Appendix  B. 


Civil  Date, 
1906. 


Place. 


g 

B 

.la; 

p 

g 

H 

•< 

Chronom.  N.  1,  Lange  56509. 


C 


K 


4th  Ma.v      ,. 

Mombasa       

h.  m. 
8  30 

h.  m.      s. 
5  20  30  0 

5th     „       .... 

Railway         ...          

10    0 

6  49    0-0 

6th     „       . 

„                

8  30 

4  59     0  0 

7th     „      .... 

Entebbe        

9  30 

C  22     0  0 

8th     „       ... 



9  30 

6  19     0  0 

9th     „       .. 

■,              

10  30 

7  14     0-0 

10th     „          . 

10     0 

6  45     0-0 

11th     „       ... 

,.               

10  30 

7  10     0-0 

12th     „       .... 

., 

8  32 

5  15     0-0 

12th     „          . 

Entebbe  (Telep;rapliic  com- 
parison   with     Mombasa 
Post  Office) 

9  30 

12th     .,        ... 

Entebbe                    

10-30 

7     9     00 

12th     

10  30 

7  11     0  0 

13th     

•> 

13  30 

10  18     0-0 

l-tth     „ 

,, 

11     0 

7  40     0  0 

16th     „       .... 

En  route  (Kutende) 

o 

10     0 

6  44    0  0 

17th     „      .... 

„         (Bweya)    

29-2 

9  30 

6  16    0-0 

18th     „ 

.,         (Mitiana) 

28-7 

10     0 

6  31     0  0 

19th     „ 

„         (Bujongolo) 

30-7 

9  30 

6  10  30  -0 

20th     „ 

(Bimbye) 

27-7 

9  30 

6  26     0  0 

21st      , 

„         (Kijemula) 

25-7 

13  30 

10  15  30  0 

22nd    „ 

„          (Madridu) 

28-2 

10     0 

6  55     0-0 

23rd     „ 

,,         (Muduma) 

23-2 

10  .30 

7     1  30  0 

24th     .,       . 

„         (Lwamutukuz  0   ... 

28-7 

10  .30 

7     2  30  -0 

2oth     „ 

(Kichiomi) 

24-2 

10     0 

6  47     0-0 

26th     „ 

„          (Muyongo) 

2(3-7 

10     0 

6  rjo     0-0 

27th     ,. 

(Kaibo)     

23-3 

10     0 

6  50     0-0 

h.  m.     s. 
+  3  16  34-9 


i--2-762 


-2  123 


346 


I . — Astronomic  Observations. 


1 
Chronom.  N.  2,  Lange  56520. 

Clironom.  N.  3,  Longines  560229. 

Comparisous 

tyg-              J\  .2. 

'    1 

C3.       K3.       k3.     Oi  —  C_>. 

C,-C,. 

C..-C3. 

h.  m.  s. 
5  11  35  0 

1 

h.  m.  9. 
5  35  43  0 

1 

111.  9. 
1        +  8  55  -0 

m.  «. 
-15  13-0 

III.  9. 
-24  8-0 

6  40  0  0 

1 

7  4  6-5 

9  0-0 

15  6  5 

24  6-5 

1 
4  49  58  -5          j 

5  13  58  -8 

9  1-5 

14  58  -8 

£4  0-3 

6  12  53  0 

6  36  53  0 

9  7-0 

14  53  -0 

24  0-0 

6  9  49  0 

.^^-^,.6  33  48  0 

.+3'--437   '''■' 

14  48  -0 

23  59  0 

7  4  43  -5 

7  28  43  0 

9  16-5 

14  43  0 

23  59  -5 

6  35  37  -5 

6  59  38  0 

9  22-5 

14  38  0 

24  0-5 

7  0  31  -5 

7  24  31  -5 
5  29  25  -3 

+  9  28  -5 

-14  31  -5 
14  25  -3 

-24  0-0 

ll.  111.   s. 

+  3  26  9  0 

J 

h.  111.  s. 

6  19  4-5+3  2  10-5 

7  23  23  -5 

1 

) 

-14  23-5 

7  1  25-5 

7  25  24-0 

+  9  34  -5 

14  24  -0 

-23  58-5 

10  8  20  -5 

10  32  18  -0 

9  39-5 

14  18  -0 

23  57  -5 

7  30  16  0 

7  54  13  -5 

9  44-0 

14  13  -5 

23  57  -5 

6  33  56  0          , 

6  57  55  -5 

10  4-0 

13  55  -5 

23  59-5 

6  5  47  -5          1 

6  29  39  -5 

10  12-5 

13  39  -5 

23  52  -0 

6  20  38  -5 

6  41  30-5 

10  21  -5 

13  30-5 

23  52  0 

5  59  59  -5 

6  24  10 

10  30-5 

13  31  0 

24  1-5 

6  15  18 -Sj 

6  39  26  -5 

]0  41-5 

13  26-5 

24  8  -0 

10  4  41  0 

10  28  50  -0 

10  49  0 

13  20  -0 

24  9-0 

6  44  0  0 

7  S  10  0 

11  0  0 

13  10  0 

24  10-0 

6  50  21  0 

; 

7  14  23  -5 

1 

11  9-0 

.  12  53  -5 

24  2-5 

6  51  10  0 

s. 
-  +  6  -264 

7  15  25  -0 

s. 
.+5-087 

11  20-0 

12  55  -0 

24  15-0 

6  35  31  -5 

6  59  51  -0 

11  28-5 

12  51  -0 

24  19-5 

6  43  19  0 

7  7  40  0 

11  41  -0 

12  K3-0 

21  27-0 

6  38  9-0 

1 

7  2  39  -0 

1 

U  51-0 

12  39-0 

24  30  0 

347 


Appendix  B. 


CiTil  Date, 
1906. 


Place. 


3 

^ 

.io 

a 

H 

■< 

Chronom.  N.  1,  Lange  56509. 


C,. 


K 


28th 

May    . 

29tlx 

„ 

30th 

J) 

3l8t 

1st 

June 

2nd 

)i 

3rd 

,, 

4th 

)> 

5th 

,, 

11th 

J, 

11th 

» 

12th 

„ 

14th 

„ 

16th 

,, 

18th 

)) 

24th 

„ 

25th 

„ 

26th 

)»       — 

27th 

)> 

28th 

j> 

29th 

,, 

29th 

„ 

30th 

11 

1st  July     ... 

* 

2nd 

») 

otli 

) 

En  route  (Butiti)    . 

(Fort  Portal) 


(Duwonii) 
(Kasongo) 
(Ibanda)  . ... 
(Biliunga) 
(Nakitawa) 


Bujongolo 


22- 
19- 
21- 
20- 
23- 
26- 
25- 
20- 
13- 
5- 

4- 
4- 
5- 
4- 
4- 
0  ■ 
4- 
6- 
4- 
4- 

4- 
4- 
6- 

4- 


h.  m. 

■2 

11     0 

•7 

14  30 

•2 

12  30 

•7 

10  30 

•7 

10     0 

■7 

11  30 

■2 

10  30 

■7 

12  30 

•7 

10     0 

■9 

12     0 

13  30 

•9 

10     0 

•9 

14     0 

•9 

7  30 

•9 

8  30 

•9 

8  30 

■2 

9  30 

•7 

10  30 

•5 

10     0 

'7 

10     0 

■7 

6  30 

10  30 

■7 

11     0 

•3 

10     0 

•0 

10     0 

■5 

10  3iP 

h.  m. 
7  39 

s. 
0-0 

11  13 

0  0 

9  24 

0  0 

7     8 

0  0 

6  58 

0  0 

8  27 

0  0 

7  11 

0-0 

9  26 

0  0 

6  47 

0-0 

8  31 

0-0 

10  29 

2  0 

6  56 

0  0 

10  43 

0  0 

4  10 

0  0 

5  24 

0-0 

5  20 

30  0 

6  21 

0  0 

7     6 

0  0 

6  55 

30-0 

6  51 

0  0 

3     9 

34  0 

7     8 

0-0 

7  48 

0  0 

6  35 

0  0 

6  50 

0  0 

7  26 

O-o 

i     li.  m.     s.       ■  . 
+  3   l.-j  30-8  '4- 


+  3   15  21  -8 


■ -0-509 


s. 
+  0-471 


"  Taking  the  cdniiiarisuns  (if  June  Uth  to  l)e  wrong,  we  are 

348 


I. — ^ Astronomic  Observations. 


Chronom.  Jf.  2,  Lange  56520.      '  Chronom.  N.  3,  Longines  560229. 


C. 


k... 


C:,. 


K 


Comparisons. 


C,-C. 


h.  m. 

7  27 

11  0 
9  11 
6  55 

6  45 

8  14 
6  57 

9  12 
6  33 
8  17 

6  42 

10  23 

3  56 

5  10 

5  6 

6  7 
6  52 
6  42 
6  37 

6  54 

7  34 
6  21 

6  36 

7  13 


li.  tn.  8. 
+  3  29  23- 


h.  m.  s. 
7  51  33  0 

11  25  16  0 
9  36  2  0 
7  19  55  "5 
7  9  40  -5 

I  8  38  30  -0 

7  22  22  0 
9  37  13  0 
6  58  0  0 

8  41  U-0 


h.  m. 
+  3  4 


m.  8. 

11  59 

12  12 
12  26 
12  32 
12  43 

12  52 

13  2 
13  12 
13  23 

»  » 


Ci  — Cn. 


c^-r,. 


48-3 


s. 


7  6  42  -0 
10  53  24  0 

4  20  20-5 

5  34  19-5 
— 2-611  5  30  4  0 

6  30  34  -5 

7  15  22  0 
7  4  54  '5 
7  0  17  -5 


+  13  530 

13  54-5 

13  52  0 

i  13  43  0 

8. 

}■  +5  197  13  35-5 
13  30-0 
13  27  -5 
13  23  0 
13  20-0 


+  3  28  39  3  ■- 


+  3  6  15-9  = 


7  17  3-5 

7  56  45  -5 
6  43  45  -5 

6  58  2-oj 

7  34  37  0 


13  17  0 
13  15-5 
13  12-5 
13  6-5 
12  46-0 


tn.  9. 
12  33 

12  16 

12  2 

11  .55 

11  *) 

11  30 

11  22 

11  13 

11  0 

s 

-10  42 

10  24 

10  20 

10  19 

9  34 

9  34 

9  22 

9  24 

9  17 

9  3 
8  45 
8  45 
8  2 
8  37 


m.  8. 
24  32 

24  28 

24  28 

24  27 

24  23 

24  22 

24  24 

24  25 

24  23 

p 


-24  35  0 
24  18-5 
24  12  -5 
24  2-5 
23  9-5 
23  4-5 
22  49-5 
22  47  -5 
22  37  o 

22  20-5 
22  1-5 
21  58-0 
21  8-5 
21  230 


referred  to  those  of  the  12th  for  the  values  K,,  K3  and  kj,  kj. 


349 


Appendix  B. 


CiTil  Date, 
1906. 


Place. 


e 


.§    « 


Chronom.  N.  1,  Lnnge  56509. 


C,. 


K,. 


K 


llth  July    ..      Bujongolo     .... 

IStli     ,,       .  ,,  (en  route) 


h.   ni.       h.  m.      s.     j    h.  m.      s.     |  I 
5  -9  '     8     0        4  46  2S  -5   '  ;  | 

5-9  I     fi     0        2  51     6  0    +:i  15  28-4    V 


2Ut      „ 
24th     „ 


Fort  Portal 


14-2 


14     0      10  57  49  0 
6  30        2  13     0  0 


■ -1-521 


+  3  15  15-8 


27tb  July — Through  a  great  delay  in  regulating 


27fli  J 

ily     .. 

Fort  Portal 

28tli 

,, 

J) 

30th 

,. 

„             

31st 

yy 

„             

2nd  Augu,-t 

Kaibn               

6th 

Kicliiomi 

16th 

Bimbje 

16th 

Entebbe         

22nd 

2i;th 

Mombasa  (comparison  with 
the    chronometer  of   the 
Post  Office) 

28tli 


h.    ni. 

14     0 

9     0 

10     0 

14     0 

13  30 

15  30 

10    0 

14     0 

10     0 

7  30 

14  30 

li.  m.    9. 

10  32  0  0 

5  40  0  0 

6  29  0  0 

10  26  4S  0 
9  46  0  0 

11  45  0  0 
6  40  0  0 

6  37  0-0 

4     4  0  0 


h.  m.    8. 


+  3  33     5  0 


+  3  33  29  -2 


+  3  33  19  0 


}.  +  1  -510 


s. 
- 1  045 


350 


I . — Astronomic  Observations. 


Chronom.  N.  2,  Lange  5Q520.        Chronom.  N.  3.  Loiigines  560229. 

Comparisons. 

c^. 

K,.                k.,.               C,. 

K,.                         k3. 

1 

C-C,. 

c,-cv 

C,-C,. 

li.  m.     s. 
7  34    0  0 

1  59  50  0 

h.  in.     s. 
2  19  4,0  -5 

12  28-5 
13  10  0 

m.     s. 
6  40-5 

m.     e. 
19  50 -5 

the  chronometers  they  varied,  and  No.  2  stopped. 


h.  ni.     s 

8  29  43  0 

3  37  43  -5 

4  26  39  -5 

7  43  17  -5 

9  41  50-0 
4  36  13  0 

4  31  43  0 


8  39     5-5 


h.  m.       8. 
lU  17  47  -5 

5  25  55  0 

6  15  14-0 


il  3i  14-0 


b.  m.   s.        li.  m.    8.  I    li.  m.     s. 
+  2  2  17  U  +0  1412-5-1  48    45 


2  2  16  -5 
2  2  20  -5 

2  2  42  -5 
2  3  10-U 
2  3  47  0 

+  2  5  170 


2  5  55  0 


14    5-0      1  48  1 1-5 
13  46  0     1  48  31-5 

13  460      1  4856-5 


351 


II.— GEODETK^    OBSERVATIONS. 

By  p.  CA.MPIGLI. 

Taking  as  starting  point  a  site  near  Bujongolo,  the  height  of  which  above 
sea-level  was  known  from  barometric  readings,  at  that  point,  which  for 
shortness  will  henceforth  be  simply  called  Bujongolo,  was  constructed  an 
astronomic  station,  the  latitude  of  which  was  determined  by  meridian  and 
cireummeridian  zenithal  observations  of  the  sun,  and  the  longitude  by  means 
of  lunar  occultations  of  stars. 

Then  in  the  neighliourhood  of  Bujongolo  a  base  was  chosen  and  measured 
between  the  points  A  and  />'  {sec  the  annexed  diagram  of  the  triangulation.) 


The  distance  was   obtained   either   directly  by  fixing   stations  with  the 
tachometer  at  the  two  extremes  J  and  B,  or  by  measuring  with  the  metric 

353  ^  A 


Appendix  B. 

tape  measure  and  stadiometer,  the   distances    intercepted  between  the   points 
B  c,  c  c',  c'  il,  (I  A,  from  which  were  had  the  following  results  : — 


Distances. 

Vertical 
Angle. 

Between 

the 

points. 

Measured 
with  the 
tape  line. 

Measured 

with  the 

Sta'lio- 

meter. 

Segments. 

B    c 
c    B 
B    A 

c      v' 
c'    d 
c      d 
d    A 
A    d 
A    B 

56  -135 

67  -620 
108  -325 

62-700 

60-00 
61  -5 

320  -0 
75-0 

1180 

ISO -5 
66-5 
66-0 

320-0 

15°  10' 

17  32 

18  02 

21  20 

22  22 
20     40 

7     06 

7     12 

18     18 

55  -SU 
55  -92 

65  -17 
100  -91 

C5  ■■18 
64-99 

■  165-98 
166 -77 

I    .55-905 

■166-375 

•   65-2:;5 
287  -515 

289  -33 

288-45 
287  -51 

Tot! 

il  lengtli 

to  be  aciop 

ed,  metres 

2S8  -43  (947  ft.) 

At  the  extreme  west  point  B  of  the  base,  the  height  of  which  over 
Bujongolo  was  also  measured  with  the  barometer  and  found  to  be  104  metres, 
solar  observations  enabled  the  expedition  to  determine  the  azimuth  of  one  of 
the  points  constituting  the  apexes  of  the  triangles  of  the  geodetic  network, 
which  thus  became  orientated. 

The  point  chosen  for  the  azimuth  was  the  Cagni  Peak,  distant  1882-9  metres 
(.5,980  feet),  and  the  following  results  were  obtained  : — 

Mean  of  four  values  on  the  right 

Circle 80'  .51'-29. 

Mean  of  four  values  on  the  left 

Circle 80'  .51'-09. 

Mean  value  of  the  azimuth  of  Cagni  Peak  from  Point  B  ..80°  5r-19. 

With  the  mean  value  of  the  base  of  288-4.3  metres  (945  feet),  and  solving 
the  two  triangles  B  A  Cagni  Peak  and  //  A  Edward  Peak,  we  oljtained  from 
two  parts  the  value  of  the  side  Cagni  Peak — Edward  Peak,  which  gave 
2883-2  metres  (9,4-56  feet). 


354 


Xt~iX£pitin 


CXlm^cvlo  ST!! 


dSoU<^  3f 


<'moe«in»«f''l 


Bujont/olo 


'^tolw3^ 


'ql"*  tJbUaC  tfC 


I?'/'  tJoxtixf  8'(' 


MAP    OF  ANGLES     MEASURED 

in  the  Ruwenzoni  Chain 


"\»J<iomttniv  ff^ 


Scale!  WOOOorlSS  inches  -I  mile 


II. — Geodetic  Observations. 

To  this  side  were  connected  all  the  points,  Bnjongolo  included,  which 
formed  the  apexes  of  the  network  in  which  was  comprised  all  the  snrvej-ed 
section  of  the  Kiiwenzori  Range. 

At  all  these  points  a  station  was  made  liy  measuring  lioth  the  vertical  and 
the  hoiiziintal  angles  by  means  of  a  prismatic  compass  from  F.  Barker  and  Son, 
London,  No.  19l'G,  except  only  for  the  two  e.vtreme  points./  and  /-■  of  the  base, 
where  was  employed  the  tachometer,  and  for  the  Cagni  Peak,  at  whiih  the 
observations  were  carried  out  with  a  small  field  theodolite. 

In  the  tabulated  Summary  A  are  indicated  all  the  tiiangles  dealt  with,  as 
well  as  the  value  of  the  oljserved  angles  and  that  of  the  calculated  sides. 

The  Summary  B  contains  the  orthogonal  co-ordiiuites  of  all  the  points 
referred  to  the  extreme  west  of  the  base  B. 

In  the  Summary  C  are  lirought  together  the  heights  of  some  points  which 
are  referred  to  Bujongolo,  and  were  obtained  by  means  of  geodetic  observations. 

Lastly,  Summary  D  is  an  epitome  of  the  heights  that  were  adopted  for  alt 
the  points  indicated  on  the  maps,  as  well  as  the  method  liy  which  said  innnbers 
weie  deducted. 


355 


Appendix  B. 


Summary  A. 
LIST  OF  THE  TRIANGLES. 


Name  of  the  Points. 


Angles. 


Sides, 
metres. 


Name  of  the  Points. 


Angle 


Sides, 
metres. 


Wollaston 
Edward    . . . 
Cagni 

Margherita 
P'dward  . . . 
"Wollaston 

Vittorio  Emaniiele 
Edward    ... 
Wollaston 

Margherita 
Wollaston 
Vittorio  Emanuele 

lolaiida     ... 
Vittorio  Emanuele 
Wollaston 

Bottego    ...         . . .  j 

Edward    ...  . . . ! 

Wollaston 

Umberto  ...         ...j 

Cagni        ...  . . . ! 

Bottego    ... 

Alexandra 
Wi  illaston 
Vittorio  Emanuele 

Margherita  (N.Pk.) 
Alexandra 
Vittorio  f^mannele 

Kraepelin 
Vittorio  Emanuele 
Bottego    ... 

Elena 

Edward  ... 
Vittorio  Emanuele 

Savoia 

Vittorio  Emanuele 

Mai'gherita 

Sella         

Cagni 
Edward    ... 

Grauer  Pass 
Vittorio  Emanuele 
Edward    ... 


157  37 
21  07 

23  16 

21   .30 

109  30 

49  00 

24  40 
68  40 
86  40 

59  00 

57  30 
83  30 

35  00 

108  00 

37  00 

10  00 

48  00 
122  00 

79  07 
15  37-5 
85  15-5 

58  30 
40  30 
81  00 

98  00 

74  00 

8  00 

85  30 
24  30 
70  00 

90  30 
54  00 
35  30 

53  20 

28  30 
98   10 

44  16 
44  14 

91  30 

107  30 
20  00 
52  30 


2883 
1485 
1628 

•2 
•0 
•2 

1628 
4187 
3352 

•2 
•9 
•9 

1628 
3634 
3894 

■2 
•2 
■9 

3634 

2581 
4212 

"  2 
•0 
•5 

3634 
6025 
3813 

0 

9 
1 

1628 
6968 
7951 

2 
2 
9 

7429 
2037 
7539 

7 
8 
9 

3634 

2768 
4209 

2 
1 

8 

2768 

2687 

389 

1 
0 
0 

4521 
1880 
4262 

7 
9 
2 

3894 
3151 
2261 

9 
2 

9 

2579 
15.34 
3183 

8 
7 
6 

2883 

2881- 

4129- 

2 
4 
4 

3894  • 
1396- 
3240- 

9 
8 
0 

Johnston 
Vittorio  Eman. 
Edward 

Knob 

B        

Wollaston 

Stuhlmann     .. 

Margherita     . . 
Wollaston 

F        

B        

Wollaston 

Moore 
Edward 
Cagni ... 

Weismaini 
Stairs ... 
Edward 

Portal,  Xorth 

lolanda 

Wollaston 

Semper 
Edward 
Wollaston 

N        

B        

Freshfield 

Camp  II 

I*!dward 

Savoia 

Moebius 
Edward 
Vittorio  Eman. 

Bujongolo 
Cagni ... 
Edward 

Portal,  South 

lolanda 

AVoll.aston 


83 

00- 

65 

30' 

31 

29- 

70 

12- 

49 

.56- 

59 

51- 

133  00 

41  00 

6  00 

73  33 
51  00 
56  25 

102  06 
58  53 
19  00 

49  53 

27  46 

102  20 

117  59 
31  30 
30  31 

48  58 
97  49 
33  12 

71  12 
66  56 
41  .50 

104  00 
65  00 
11  00 

104  10-1 
I  42  08-2 

.33  41-7 

39  00 

105  00 
36  00 

87  30 
51  30 
41  00 

0 
2 


3894-9 

3493 • 9 

556-7 

2098-1 
1709-4 
1832-2 

4200-2  m. 

3678-1 

1398-5 

2098-1 
1278-3 
2680-2 

2883-2 
1705-9 
1657-9 

2578-5 
3386-4 
1872-1 

6025  -  9 
5856 ■ 3 
4247-4 

1628-2 

1.520-9 

.320-2 

1.527-6 

1057-0 
874-1 

1958-4 
3005 • 9 
1829-1 

.3894-9 
3051  - 1 
2557  -  7 

2883-2 
2643 • 2 
1517-6 

6025  -  9 
4901-1 
5538-2 


356 


IT. — Geodetic  Observations. 


Summary  B. 

ORTHOGONAL  CO-ORDINATES  OF  THE   POINTS,  REFERRED  TO   B 

(EXTREME   WEST   BASE). 


Name  of 

the  Points. 

y 

z 

B — Extreme  west  base        

0 

0 

A — Extreme  east  base 

+     284-8 

+        45-8 

Cagui 

...          ...          ... 

+    1028-3 

-    1.505-2 

Erhvard 

-    1854-5 

+    1458-2 

AVollastoii 

-      345  -  4 

+    2069-5 

Vittorio  Emanuele 

-    1903-4 

+    .5352-8 

Margherita    . . . 

-    40S6-7 

+    3978-5 

lolaiida 

+     8G7 ■ 7 

+    4972-0 

Umberto 

-    1168-0 

+    8718-1 

Alexandra     . . . 

-    4187-8 

+    3789-5 

Kraepelin 

-      933-9 

+    9503-2 

Elena 

. . . 

-    3700-9 

+    2764-7 

Savoia 

-    3462-0 

+    2576-8 

Grauer  Pass  ... 

757-2 

+    2322-3 

Stiihlmann    . . . 

-    2899-0 

+    4716-8 

F       

• . . 

-    1622-5 

-1-    2133-3 

Moore 

-      455 • 3 

+    2347-4 

Weismann     . . . 

-    2311-1 

-    1897-3 

Stairs 

-     746-1 

-      869-9 

Roccati 

...          ...          .. . 

-    2805-6 

+    2714-8 

Bottego 

+      858-5 

+    8933-0 

:^Iargherita,  North  Peak     

-    4310-5 

+   4158-7 

Knob 

-    1594-5 

+     902-5 

Portal,  North 

+    4360-5 

+    5555-2 

Portal,  South 

+    4301-6 

+    3626-8 

Gamp  II 

-    2475-0 

-      262-5 

E       

-    3876-0 

+    .3025-2 

Johnston 

-    1532-9 

+    4937-3 

Semper 

-    1837-9 

+    1778-0 

Sella 

-    1882-9 

-    1423-2 

Biijongolo     . . . 

+     421-6 

+      114-2 

N      

-      420-5 

-      766-3 

Camp  VII     ...      ' 

Calculated 

+     561-7 

+    7229-6 

Lake  Kujnku        j; 

.   to  apex  of  <    ... 

-    1723-7 

+    2770-3 

Freshfield  Pass 

pyramid 

-    1443-5 

-     .500-0 

357 


Appendix  B. 


SUMMAKY    C. 

EATIOS    OF    THE    POINTS    REFERRED    TO    BUJOXGOLO,    WHOSE 
HEIGHT  ABOVE    THE  SEA   IS  3,798  METRES  (12,461  FEET). 

The  ratios  of  the  points  are  calculated  uith  the  zenith  distances  observed  at  the  nirions 
stations,  and  with  the  sides  obtained  from  the  triangulation. 


Name  of  the  Points. 


Zenitli 

Angles 

Obserred. 


Differences 
of  Level. 


Bal  ios 
referred  to 
Bujongolo. 


Station    B.       Extreme    west    base, 
determined  \vith  the  barometer    .. 

Cagni  Peak 
Edward   ,, 
Semper    ,, 
Signal  A  . . 


ratio 


Station  A.     Extreme  east  base,  ratio 

Cagni  Peak 
Edward    „ 


Cagni  Station,  mean  ratio 

Edward    .. 

Margherit:i 

Tittori'i  Emanuele 

TJmberto  . . 

lolanda     . . 

Elena 

Sella 

WoUaslon 

Moore 

E 

Stairs 


Vittorio  Emanuele  Station,  mean  ratio 

Margherita 
t>aToia 
Umberto  . . 
Johnston  . . 
WoUaston 


Alexandra  Station,  mean  ratio 

Vittorio  Emanuele 

Edward 

Elena 

jVIargherita 

Wollaston 

Margborita,  Nortli  Peak 


+  18°  47' 
+  22  16 
+  18  27 
+  11  31 


+  23=  24' 
+  22  30 


55'  30" 

5  30 

31  30 

5  30 

39  30 

37  30 

58  30 

5  33  30 

4  36  30 

4  42  30 

1  30  0 


+  5°  0' 
+  1  30 

-  1  30 

-  5  30 
-40 


0' 
0 
0 
30 
0 


+  ()  30 


1822  -9 

2359  1 

2680  -2 

288-4 


1637  -9 
25fi3  -4 


2883  -2 
5681  -6 
4837  -2 
7539  -9 
8142  -9 
4,s;i4  -0 
4129  2 
1485  0 
1705  -9 
5134-4 
2961  -5 


2581  0 
3183  -6 
3444  6 
onfi  -7 
3634  -2 


2768-1 
3298  -4 
1134  -6 

214-3 
4209  -S 

389-0 


+  620 
+  966 
+  894 
-  94 


+  709 
+  1062 


+  350 
+  606 
+  383 
+  275 
+  235 
+  482 
+  142 
+  144 
+  137 
+  423 


+  226 
+   84 

-  90 

-  54 

-  254 


-  194 

-  231 

-  99 
+   24 

-  443 
+   3 


104 

724 

1070 

998 

10 

10 

719 

1072 


1072 

1328 

1104 

997 

957 

1204 

86 1 

8nfi 

859 

1144 

SOU 


1104 

1330 
1188 
1014 
1050 
850 


1.302 

1108 
1301 
1203 
1326 
859 
1305 


358 


II. — Geodetic  Observations. 


SUJIMAKY  C — roniinued. 


Name  of  the  Points. 

Zenith 

Angles 

Observed. 

Sides. 

Differences 
of  Level. 

Ratios 
referred  to 
Bujongolo. 

"VV'ollaston  Station,  mean  ratio 

.. 

861 

Semper     .. 
lolanda     . . 
Edward     . . 
Si  airs 
Stiihlmann 

Sella           

Moore 

+    6'"  30' 
+    1    00 
+    7    30 

-  1    30 

-  7    00 
0 

-  1    00 

1278  -8 
6968  -2 
1628  -3 
2969  -9 
3748  -8 
3S15-6 
299  1 

+    146 
+    122 
+    214 

-  78 

-  460 

0 

-  5 

1007 
9S3 

1075 
783 
401 
861 
856 

lolanda  Station,  mean  ratio  . . 

.. 

.. 

971 

Bottego     . . 

-   3°    0' 

961  0 

-     50 

921 

Camp    IV,    ratio     determined     with     the 
barometer    . . 

710 

Grauer  Pass 

0° 

0 

710 

Umberto  Station,  mean  ratio 

.. 

'  ' 

1005 

Kraepeliu . . 

-  0"  8'  30" 

819-3 

-       2 

1003 

Edward  Station,  mean  ratio.. 

.. 

.. 

1071 

Vittorio  Kmanuele 

Moore 

VVeismann 

+    0°30' 

-  7    30 

-  3    30 

3894  -9 
1657  -9 
3386  -4 

+      34 

-  218 

-  208 

1105 
853 
863 

359 


Appendix  B. 


^ 

w 


S  o 


•ji 


o 

O 

m 
o 

H 
Q 


o 
o 
s^ 
o 

1-3 

pq 

'-^ 
o 

o 


fi    r-1  :;j 


O 
H 


^  C'  s 

..  -^  ^ 


w 

•J} 

P  5  -" 
^  ^  S 

is 

^« 
-J}   > 

P3 


W 
Z 


o 


1 

f1 

1 

At  sea-lcvcl. 

■g 

ooOiOxeocoJ>-'MM'MO'MX'^r*i>cor^No;t^x-*ao 
^  10  CO  ^  CO  ic  >-■:  •--:  10  L-i  i.-^  '^  LI  c^  C>  CD  CO  0  »f3  \o  CO  -*  0  71 

osco^LOioffiiccsCi'^OMcicooccO'-irHoocci^c:?! 

i-<t^O'MO:COwiO»Cif305-*'MOOOXO:r-*Oi'-^-^0 

wxc-j--Haii:^xcocccDiflCiGOQ0««ci'XC0X"»rai>a5 

i 

•otoSnorna:  1 

.-(if3C01>i>.-lt^rMi-'CD'M-*^Oi>Vf5<MCOCOC».'5l^^-*fi 
WI>0730St^>-^CDCOiOOi'ej<COi-(OOXQCDiOCS>-i?10 

i>o^copHOsoxxxt^^o      eoco^Oxccoj>Ci.-i 

1— (rHi— (1— (1— 1                                   ,-Hr- !>-<>— (.— ll— IrH 

Ratio 

■ob- 
tained 
with 

the 
Baro- 
meter. 

1078 

1102 
1327 
1193 
972 
1029 

1060 
1312 
1176 

390 

724 

104 

3                                    rH^^r^cOOW^^CDN'^iMOMWSXCOTOO'-^O^ 

*;                         J>  0  r^  CO  csi  Oi  0  00  00  xi>  <-(  0       CO  »  ^  0  00  0 -^  t>  0    1 

eft 

_o 

1 

•AI  dmiio  1       II    1    1    II    11    1    M    1    1    1    1    1    II    II    1  S   1    1 

1                                                       "^ 

■o^wquiii 

1003 

•BpUCIOJ 

921 

•■Bnaia: 

1303 

■pjBAVpa 

1105 

857 
853 

1302 
863 

■SJlK)g 

859 

^l^naTJing; 
ouonr\^ 

1014 

1298 
1188 

1050 

•nais«iio^VV 

983 

861 
85(3 
783 

1007 
401 

•Tupn'EX3|y 

1326 
1203 

859 
1305 

•w^iianSjupi 

1302 

•inSua 

IS2g|ggSSS£2 II 1  M  II  M  II 1 

«■ 

si  1  M  li  II  1  lli°  M  II  1!  i  II  1 

-<i 

719 
1072 

1 

-2                                                                                       r^ 

.  .1 ^ 

330 


in.— KEPUKT  UN  METEOKOLOGICAL  AND 
ALTIMETEIC  OBSERVATIONS  MADE  BY 
H.R.H.  THE  DUKE  OF  THE  ABEUZZI'S 
EXPEDITION  TO  RUWENZOKI  (190(i). 

By  Prof.  DOMENICO  OMODEI. 

The  meteorological  observations  were  made  during  the  whole  jomiiey, 
from  16th  ^lay  to  12th  August,  for  the  twofold  purpose  of  first  giving  an  idea 
of  the  climate  of  these  regions,  at  least  for  the  short  time  of  stay,  and  then  of 
determining,  at  least  approximately,  the  altitudes  of  the  various  places,  and 
especially  of  the  more  important  points  of  the  Kuwenzori  Range,  which  was  the 
chief  objective  of  the  expedition. 

The  instruments  used  in  the  observations  consisted  of  three  mercurial 
barometers  *  of  the  Fortin  type,  one  registering  barometer,  three  aneroids,  two 
hypsometric  thermometers,  three  thermometers  and  one  psychrometei-. 

Before  starting,  these  instruments  were  carefully  compared  with  the 
normal  instruments,  and  to  all  the  data,  which  are  recorded  farther  on,  were 
applied  the  terms  of  correction  thus  establislied. 

During  the  first  part  of  the  journey  from  Entebbe!  to  Fort  Portal,  from 
16th  to  2Sth  May,  the  observations  for  pressure,  temperature  and  humidity, 
as  well  as  those  relating  to  the  state  of  the  weather,  were  taken  exmy  day  at 
noon,  while  other  less  complete  observations  were  made  at  15  and  I'l  o'clock. 
The  summarj'  of  the  observations  is  contained  in  the  accompanying  Table  I. 
The  maximum  and  minimum  temperatures  have  reference  to  the  whole  period 
of  the  stay  of  the  expedition  in  a  given  station,  that  is,  generally  from  alwut 
10  or  11  in  the  mornintr  till  the  first  antemeridian  hours  of  the  next  dav. 


*  Two  graduated  from  720  to  240  mm.,  and  one  from  480  to  290  mm.  for  the  uplands, 
t  Here  there  is  an  observatory,  tlie  altitude  of  which  is  known,  hence  it  was  taken  as 

the  basal  station  for  the  determination   of  the  altitudes  of  places  between  Entebbe  aud  Fort 
Portal. 

361 


Appendix  B. 

At  the  KiiteMie  Obsorvatory  the  meteorological  observations  were  rogul;irly 
carried  out  three  times  in  the  day,  at  7,  U  and  21  of  mean  local  time,  which 
ditt'ers  2  hours,  8  minutes  and  45  seconds  from  mean  Greenwich  time,  whereas 
those  of  barometric  pressure  daring  the  journey  could  be  made  only  at  noon 
of  local  time. 

Hence  in  the  absence  of  synchronous  corresponding  data  of  Entebbe,  for 

the  pressure  the  mean  of  the  hours  7,  14  and  21   has  l)een  assumed,  and  from 

this  mean  the  pressure  at  noon  may,  generally  speaking,  be  taken  to  differ  Init 

slightly.     For   the   temperature  and  the    tension    of    aqueous  vapour  that  of 

the  nearest  hour,  that  is  14,  has  been  assumed.     In  Table  II  have  been  Ijrought 

totrether  the  data  of  the   observations   made  at  Entebbe*  between   16th  and 

28th  May.     From  the  data  supi)lied  by  the  two  Tables  I  and  II  were  calculated 

the  altitudes   of   the  various   stations    relatively   to   linteblie   by   means   of   the 

formula  :  t 

1  \ 

Z=  18400  (1,001.")7  + 0,00367  0)  

1 1-0,378-1 

\  ';/ 

(1 +0,00259  cos  2  X)(l  +  |±|^)  log  ^ 

where  Z  expresses  the  difference  of  level  between  the  two  stations. 
H|j  the  presstire  reduced  to  0"  in  the  lower  station. 
H  the  pressure  reduced  to  0"  in  the  upper  station. 

^  =  -'^J — ^the  mean  l)etween  the  tempei'ature  /,,  of  the  aii'  in  the  lower 


statioii  and  that  nf  /  in  the  upper  station. 

mean   between   the  vapour  tens; 
and  /'  that  of  the  upper  station. 


0  = '  "      •    the  mean   between   the  vapour  tension   f],  in  the  lower  station 

H^+JI 
2 
\  the  latitude, 

■;  the  latitude  of  the  lower  station  aliove  sea-level. 

The  headings  H,,,  /„,  /,,  H,  /,  /',  which  figure  above  the  columns  in  the 
following  tables,  refer  to  the  use  of  the  formula  for  the  calculation  of  which  use 
has  been  made  of  the  "  Tables  Meteorologiques  Internationales  "  (Paris,  1890). 

*  According  to  the  certiBcale  of  the  "  National  Physical  Laboratory,"  the  barometer  of 

till'  Entebbe  Observatory  has  a  correction  of  —  O'OUl  incli. 

t  'i'liis  foruuila  of  Kiilihnann  has  been  adopted  witliout  more  ado  as  tlie  most  general  and 
complete,  since  a  discussion  on  the  choice  of  aUimetric  formulas,  which  should  take  account 
of  the  recent  results  on  the  law  of  variation  of  the  meteorological  elements  in  the  open  air 
and  on  the  slopes  of  the  mountains,  would  not  hr  in  accord  with  the  few  available  data,  data 
which,  moreover,  cannot  always  be  obtained  under  the  best  condilions. 

362 


71   ; 

uljout 

,  232-8    ft. 

GO 

M 

I9f,-18  „ 

59 

)) 

17716  „ 

U 

»J 

4G-0     „ 

8-t 

J) 

275-60  „ 

151 

)J 

495-41  „ 

li:! 

,, 

370-74  „ 

I -.Mi 

») 

446-20  „ 

188 

)' 

556-81  „ 

lL'5 

)T 

410-11  „ 

I'jy 

)) 

652-86  „ 

298 

5) 

977-73  „ 

III. — Meteorological,  etc.,   Observations. 

The  following  are  the  results  olitaiiied* : 

Altitude  of  Bweya  ...   relatively  to  Entubhc  in. 

Mitiana 
Bujongo 
Bimbye 
Kijemula 
Madudu 
Miiduma 
„  Lwamutukuza  ,,  „         „ 

Kichiorai 
Misongo 
Kaibo 
Butiti 

As  it  is  almost  needless  to  state,  these  altitudes  have  very  uncertain  \alue, 
either  because  obtained  Ijy  isolated  observations  made  at  different  hours,  or  else 
because  to  very  slightly  different  levels  correspond  considerable  horizontal 
distances,  as  between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal  (about  225  kilometres  =  nearly 
140  miles). 

But  for  this  last  inconvenience,  greater  probabilities  of  accuracy  would 
be  presented  by  the  determination  of  the  altitude  of  Fort  Portal.  Here  there 
is  an  observatory  which  has  been  recently  founded,  but  the  height  of  which 
relatively  to  Entebbe  has  not  yet  been  determined  geodetically,  but  was 
obtained  from  the  observed  data  during  the  whole  quarter.  May,  June,  and 
July,  1906,  so  that  the  influence  of  the  various  soui-ces  of  error  may  be 
regarded  as  considerably  lessened. 

In  the  subjoined  Table  III  are  recorded  all  these  data,  the  outcome  of 
which  was  that  the  difference  of  altitude  between  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portalf 
is  355  metres  (1,170  feet). 

*  The  calculation  has  been  omitted  for  Katende  which,  as  sliown  bv  the  pressure,  stands 
at  very  nearly  the  same  level  as  Entebbe. 

•)■  From  the  comparisons  made  on  the  30th  and  31st  May,  and  again  on  the  21st  and 
24th  July  between  the  two  Fortin  barometers  of  tlie  expedition  and  tlie  barometer  No.  2,025 
(Xegretti  and  Zambra)  of  tlie  English  Observatory  at  Fort  Portal,  it  appeared  that  the 
former  gave  a  mean  indication  of  5-17  mm.  =  4  inch  (at  0°)  above  that  of  tlie  latter.  Since 
tins  difference  was  verified  in  an  equal  degree  witli  the  two  barometers  of  the  espedition, 
which  kept  in  perfect  agreement  with  each  otiier  at  Fort  Portal,  as  they  had  before  the 
journey,  it  was  thought  reasonable  to  apply  to  all  tlu-  pressures  yielded  by  tlie  barometer  of 
the  Fort  Portal  Observatory,  the  eoiistaiil  correction  5-17  mm.  To  the  end  of  November, 
1907,  the  correction  of  the  Kew  Observatory  Iia  I  not  yet  been  obtained  for  the  Fort  Portal 
barometer. 

363 


Appendix  B. 

A  result  quite  conformable  (the  difference  is  less  than  half  a  metre,  or 
18  or  19  inches)  is  readied  by  ass\nning  for  the  calculation  the  means  of  the 
data  of  Entebbe  and  Fort  Portal  for  seven  months  of  the  year  1905  (.see 
Table  IV). 

It  was  impossible  to  include  the  whole  year,  l>ecause  no  oliservations  were 
made  at  Fort  Portal  from  May  to  September,  1905.  Hence,  the  Entebbe 
Oliservatory  being  3,863  English  feet,  or  1,177  metres  above  sea-level,  it 
follows  that  Fort  Portal  stands  at  alwut  1,532  metres  (5,025  feet)  altove 
the  sea. 

After  a  stay  of  two  days  at  Fort  Portal,  the  expedition  started  on 
1st  June  from  Fort  Portal  for  Kuvvenzori. 

In  the  appended  Table  V  are  given  the  data  of  the  observations  made  at 
the  various  encampments,  as  in  Table  VI  the  corresponding  data  of  Fort  I'ortal, 
where,  at  the  recjuest  of  H.R.H.,  Mr.  John  de  Souza,  Director  of  the  Observa- 
tory, besides  the  ordinary  observations  for  the  hours  7,  14,  and  21,  made  one 
also  at  noon  for  the  whole  time  that  elapsed  between  the  departure  of  the 
expedition  from,  and  its  return  to,  Fort  Portal. 

From  the  data  of  Tallies  V  and  VI  have  been  calculated  the  following 
altitudes : 

Altitude  of  Duwona      relatively  to  Fort  Portal  about  m.  5-1=^     177 '0  ft. 

Kasongo  „  „  „  „  „  „  136=    4-i6-2  „ 

„           Ibanda  „  „  „  „  „  „  458=     518-3  „ 

„           Bihunga  „  „  „  „  „  „  388  =  1,273-0  „ 

„           Nakitawa  „  „  ,,  „  „  „  1,120  =  3,674-6  ,, 

Kichuehu  „  „  „  „  „  „  1,465  =  5,788-2  „ 

„           Buamba  .,  „  „  „  „  „  1,986  =  6,515-8  „ 

On  8th  June  the  expedition  reached  Bujongolo,  a  place  which  is  comprised 
within  the  Ruwenzori  uplands,  and  as  this  formed  the  basal  station  and  point  of 
reference  for  all  the  measurements  to  be  subsequently  taken  during  the  exjjlora- 
tion,  the  observations  were  here  made  regularly  from  16th  June  to  12th  July, 
under  conditions  far  more  favourable  than  those  that  would  be  secured  while 
&n  route.  The  instruments  were  suspended  fi-om  a  vertical  table  supported 
by  two  posts,  which  were  firmly  planted  in  the  ground  at  a  height  of  about 
five  feet  above  the  surface,  and  protected  from  the  effects  of  insulation  and  of 
the  rain  by  a  large  awning  extended  al>ove  at  a  distance  of  about  a  foot. 

At  Table  VIII  are  given  the  results  of  these  observations,  which  are 
recorded  in  full,  not  only  because  they  have  been  used  for  the  calculation  of  the 

364 


Til. — Meteorological,  etc.,  Observations. 

altitudes,  but  also  because  they  serve  to  give  an  idea  of  the  climate  of*  that 
interesting  locality. 

Then  at  Table  VII  are  brought  together  the  data  of  Fort  Portal  for  the 
same  period  of  time,  liearing  in  mind  that  to  the  pressures  reduced  to  0°  has 
been  applied  the  already-mentioned  constant  term  of  correction  +5-17  mm. 
Thenfrom  the  mean  data  of  Tables  VII  and  VIII  was  calculated  the  difference 
of  level  between  Bujongolo  and  Fort  Portal.  The  first  calculation  was  made 
with  the  data  of  the  synchronous  midday  observations  at  Bujongolo  and  Fort 
Portal,  and  was  found  to  be  2,276-7  imire.^  (7,408-5  feet). 

But  when  we  allow  for  the  considerable  difterence  of  level  between  the  two 
observed  stations,  we  cannot  assert  with  certainty  that  the  law  of  daily  variation 
of  pressure  is  identical  in  both  places,  hence  the  coincidence  of  the  hour  of 
oljservation  does  not  imply  identity  of  modifications  in  the  atmospheric  ebb  and 
flow,  so  that  it  becomes  advisable  to  try  and  take  advantage  of  the  other 
observed  data  too,  besides  those  of  midday.  Therefore  with  the  mean  daily 
values  of  pressure,  temperature,!  and  vapour  tension  for  Fort  Portal  (obtained 
from  the  mean  of  the  three  observations  of  the  hours  7,  14,  and  21  for 
Bujongolo)  are  associated  the  mean  values  of  the  pressure  and  vapour  tension 
deduced  from  the  two  observations  of  the  hours  9  and  17.  These,  when  account 
is  taken  of  the  normal  movement  of  the  daily  \'ariations  of  pressure  and  tension, 
.should  not  differ  greatly  from  the  tliurnal  mean. 

For  the  temperature  of  Bujongolo  we  have  assumed  the  mean  of  the 
maximum  and  minimum  temperature,  which,  in  the  absence  of  more  complete 
data,  is  the  one  that  approaches  nearest  to  the  mean  daily  temperature. 

With  the  values  thus  obtained,  and  recorded  at  foot  of  Tables  VII  and  VIII, 
the  difference  of  level  has  been  calculated  between  Fort  Portal  and  Bujongolo, 
and  is  found  to  be  2,2-55  -  7  metres  (7,376  feet). 

Taking  as  a  more  approximate  value  the  mean  between  this  and  the 
preceding  value,  we  get  as  the  height  of  Bujongolo  abo^e  Fort  Portal 
.'i',-?6Y>  mcfres  (7,4.32  feet),  and  adding  to  this  value  the  altitude  of  Fort  I'ortal 
above  the  sea,  the  elevation  of  Bujongolo  above  the  sea  is  found  to  lie 
3,79S  metres  (12,461  feet). 

The  camp  being  established  at  Bujongolo,  where,  as  already  stated,  regular 
observations  were  taken  three  times  daily  from  15th  June  to  1 2th  July,  the 
excursions  began  to  the  chief  places  in  the  Ruwenzori  Range.     The  instruments 

*  Owing  to  the  requirements  of  daily  life  at  the  Bujongolo  encampment,  the  meteoro- 
logical observations  were  taken  at  the  hours  of  9,  12,  and  17,  instead  of  7,  14,  and  21,  as  at 
Fort  Portal  and  Entebbe. 

t  In  the  calculation  of  temperature  no  account  is  taken  of  the  maximum  and  miiiinunn, 
because  at  times  they  disagree  with  the  other  temperatures  of  the  day. 

365 


Appendix  B. 


brought  with  us  on  these  excursions  were: — a  Fortiii  Imronietev  whicli  had  for 
a  hing  time  been  compared  with  another  left  at  Bujongolo  ;  an  aneroid  likewise 
compared  with  the  two  Fortius  ;  a  thermometer  for  taking  the  temperature  of 
the  air,  and  two  hypsometric  thermometers. 

For  the  more  important  points,  for  instance,  for  nearly  all  the  peaks,  and 
always  where  possilile,  the  measurements  of  pressure  were  made  with  the 
mercurial  barometer,  the  aneroid  Ijeing  useii  only  in  a  few  special  cases  where 
it  would  have  been  very  ditlicult  to  carry,  or  take  measurements  with  the 
mercurial  barometei',  and  also  for  places  of  secondary  importance.  The 
precaution,  however,  was  taken  to  take  down  or  record  the  indications  of  the 
aneroid  even  whenever  the  Fortin  was  used. 

Not  till  after  12th  July,  when  the  Fortin  got  damaged,  was  the  h^-psometer 
employed.  Whenever  it  was  possible,  the  observations  were  made  at  the  same 
hours  as  those  of  Bujongolo  (9,  12,  and  17),  but  occasionally  this  was  not 
possible,  and  then  we  assumed  as  terms  of  comparison  the  data  of  Bujongolo 
made  at  the  nearest  hours,  unless  there  were  reasons  for  adopting  the  mean 
of  two  consecutive  data. 

In  connection  with  this  preferable  choice  of  data  for  the  calculation  of 
altititdes  it  should  be  noted  that  for  places  for  which  the  daily  variation  of 
pressure,  temperature,  etc.,  is  known,  that  is  to  s&y,  where  the  hour  of  the 
ma.xima  and  minima  and  the  extent  of  the  daily  variations  are  ascertained,  it 
is  possible  to  reduce  a  determination  made  at  any  given  hour  to  another 
determined  hour.  But  in  the  present  case  these  fundamental  notions  are 
lacking,  and  for  regions  such  as  that  under  consideration,  meteorological  studies 
are  too  rare  to  enable  us  confidentl}'  to  extend  to  them  those  laws  that  have 
been  established  for  regions  of  the  temperate  zone.* 

For  Bujongolo  we  should  no  doubt  have  some  element  to  establish 
approximately  the  daily  movement  of  pressure,  temperature,  etc.,  but  the  same 
caimot  be  said  for  the  other  places  in  Euwenzori,  and  especially  for  the  peaks. 

For  these  reasons  the  heights  were  calculated  with  the  data,  such  as  they 
were,  without  modifying  them  in  any  way  on  the  ground  of  the  hours  when 
the  observations  were  made. 

Another  matter,  which,  however,  has  no  great  influence,  is  that  concerned 
with  the  humidity,  or  rather  the  tension  of  the  aqueous  vapour  which  is  always 

*  Let  one  example  suffice  to  show  what  caution  is  necessary  in  this  respect.  At 
Bujongolo  the  mean  pressure  at  9  o'clock  is  488-87  mm.  (see  Table  VIII,  6)  ;  at  12,  488-67, 
and  at  17,  488-08,  so  that  the  maiimum  of  the  morning  is  reached  before  midday,  and 
at  tliis  hour  the  barometer  is  already  falling.  On  tlie  other  hand  on  the  Siintis  Peak 
(2,467  metres),  the  maximum  of  tlic  morning  is  delayed  till  toward  14  o'clock,  and  on  Mt.  BUinc 
(4,811  metres),  till  towards  15  (Angot,  nieteorologie). 

366 


III. — Meteorological,  etc.,  Observations. 

found  to  a  greater  or  less  extent   in  the  atmosphere.      In  the  forimdu  which 
serves  for  the  calculation  of  the  altitudes  (.sea  p.  .'iGL')  there  occurs  the  factor 

1  -  0  378  rh  ^^'^^'"^  '^  ^'^  '■^^  mean  vapotir  tension  at  the  two  stations,  and   7  the 

'/ 
m^au   of  the  pressures,  and  this  factor  has  reference  to  the  influence  exercised 
by  the  presence  of  the  aqueous  vapour  on  the  readings  of  barometric  altitudes. 
For  Bujongolo  the  vapour  ten.sion   is  known,  l>ut  not  for  the  observed  places 
on  Ruwenzori,  as  here  no  psychrometric  ol3sei'\-ations  were  made. 

The  neglect  of  the  factor  relating  to  the  humidity  might  be  a  cause  of 
error,  to  eliminate  which,  at  least  partly,  a  mean  humidity  of  aliout  60  has  been 
admitted  for  the  stratum  of  the  air  comprised  lietween  Bujongolo  and  the 
observed  station.* 

This  humidity  of  60  is  certainly  less  than  the  true  mean,  since  at 
Bujongolo  the  humidity  i.s  always  very  high  (mean  89),  and  there  is  reason 
to  believe  that  it  is  always  considerable  in  the  other  places  too,  where  cloiifly, 
foggy  and  rainy  weather  prevail. 

On  the  Tables  IX,  X,  XI  and  XII  are  recorded  the  altitudes  of  the  various 
other  places  on  Ruwenzori,  calculated  with  the  previously  indicated  iwrmtf. 

Regarding  the  results  olitaincd,  it  may  lie  noticed  that  the  determinations 
made  with  the  mercurial  baiometer  were  found  to  agree  sufficiently  well  with 
each  other  whenever  it  was  possible  to  make  more  than  one  determination  for 
any  given  place,  and  they  agree  also  with  the  surveys  made  with  geodetic 
methods. 

Owing  to  the  irregular  behaviour  of  the  aneroid  barometers,  the  measure- 
ments taken  with  these  instruments  present  a  far  less  degree  of  approximation. 

*  'J'o  sliow  Ihe  possible  influence  of  such  a  correction,  reference  may  be  made  to  (he 
special  ease  of  the  Margherita  Peak.  Here  the  pressure  at  11  o'clock  on  18th  June  was 
414'0  mm  and  the  tempeniture  —  3°-3  Celsius  (20°'6  F.),  whereas  at  Bujongolo,  at  12  o'clock 
on  the  same  day,  the  pressure  was  4879  mm.  and  the  temperature  o'l  Celsius  (11'  F.), 
hence  the  mean  pressure  was  about  451  mm.  and  the  mean  temperature  0°-9  Celsius  (33°  F.). 
Had  the  air  been  saturated  at  this  temperature  the  vapour  tension  would  liave  been  487  mm. 
Admitting  a  humidity  of  GO  the  tension  falls  to  2'92  mm.,  with  wliieh  datum,  and  wit)i  the 
mean  pressure  of  4.51,  we  get  the  cologarithm  of  tlu>  term  of  correction  for  the  iiumidify, 
namely : 

colog. L_^  =  000103 

1-0  378'*' 

n 

Without  taking  account  of  the  humidity,  the  height  of  Margherita  Peak  above  Bujongolo 
was  found  to  be  1,324  metres;  with  this  added  it  becomes  1,327  metres,  that  is  to  say,  we 
have  a  rise  of  about  0-22  per  i-ent.  Admitting  a  humidity  of  80  the  height  would  become 
1,328'5  metres,  with  a  rise  of  0'33  per  cent. 

367 


Appendix  B. 

Ill  fact,  in  spite  of  every  care  taken  to  make  continual  comparisons  with  the 
Fortiii  l)arometer,  the  term  of  correction  did  not  keep  constant,  not  only  from 
day  to  day,  Idit  even  during  the  same  day  whenever  the  instrument  got  shaken 
or  was  exposed  to  sudden  changes  of  altitude. 

Hence,  to  avoid  errors  that  might  even  be  serious,  a  cautious  and  limited 
use  has  Ijeen  made  of  the  data  obtained  with  the  aneroid.  Thus,  the 
simultaneous  indications  of  the  Fortin  and  the  aneroid  being  noted,  and  the 
altitude  olitaiiied  from  the  former  being  taken  as  correct,  the  indications  of 
the  latter  have  served  to  establish  differences  of  k'\-el,  which  were  inconsiderable 
relativelv  to  the  point  of  comparison.  "When  this  process  was  completed  the 
comparison  was  renewed,  so  that  the  data  first  obtained  were  brought  under 
control. 

In  general  the  reported  data  result  from  the  mean  of  two  or  more 
determinations,  and  may  consequently  be  regarded  as  sufficiently  accurate. 

As  to  the  altitudes  of  the  places  passed  by  the  expedition  on  the  return 
journey,  that  is,  from  and  after  the  1-lth  July,  these  were  all  obtained  by 
means  of  comparisons  with  the  data  observed  simultaneously  at  Ibanda.*  Then, 
for  the  sake  of  uniformity,  they  were  reduced,  like  the  previous .  ones,  to  the 
common  level  of  Bujongolo. 

Amongst  the  determinations  made  relatively  to  Ibanda  was  that  of 
lolanda  Peak,  the  altitude  of  which  will  consequently  not  be  so  near  the  truth 
as  that  of  the  other  peaks.  And,  besides  the  inconvenience  of  Ibanda  lying 
still  lower  than  Fort  Portal,  there  was  also  the  trouble  caused  by  the  breaking 
of  one  of  the  mercurial  barometers,  instead  of  which  we  had  to  use  the 
hypsometer,  which  yields  a  less  degree  of  approximation  in  the  readings. 


NOTE. 

In  the  western  districts  of  the  Uganda  Protectorate  the  geodetic  survey 
has  not  yet  Ijeeu  carried  out,  but  the  far-seeing  British  Government  is  taking  it 
in  hand,  and  no  doubt  it  will  soon  be  an  accomplished  fact.  Hence  it  might 
seem  reasonable  to  refer  the  various  altitudes  of  the  Euwenzori  group,  not 
to  Bujongolo,  but  to  Fort  North  Portal,  the  exact  height  of  which  above 
sea-level  will  soon  be  known.  In  fact,  this  very  critical  point  is  being  seen  to 
by  Messrs.  H.  Y.  Tegart  and  H.  E.  Maddox,  who  have  recently  published  some 


•  For  the  altitude  of  Ibanda  relatively  to  Foi-t  Portal-  148  was  assumed,  this  being  the 
mean  of  the  observations  made  on  going  and  returning. 

36s 


III. — Aleteoroloiiical,  etc.,  Observations. 

valuable  studios  on  liuwenzori.  But  if  the  ilatu  have  nevertheless  been  referred 
to  Bujongolo,  it  was  because  they  offered  greater  guarantees  of  accuracy,  and 
this  for  the  following  reasons  : — 

First  of  all,  the  difference  of  altitude  between  Bujongolo  and  Fort  Portal 
may  be  regarded  as  near  enough,  having  been  obtained  from  a  considerable 
number  of  observations.  On  this  account  we  may  consider  as  partially  com- 
pensated those  sources  of  error  which  are  due  to  atmospheric  disturbances, 
such  as  may  have  a  great  influence  on  isolated  measurements,  especially  when 
dealing  with  very  remote  stations.  Such  would  precisely  have  been  the  case  if 
the  data  observed  on  Ruwenzori  had  Ijcen  directly  compared  with  those 
corresponding  hour  for  hour  with  Fort  Portal.  But  by  making  the  comparisons 
with  the  data  obtained  at  Bujongolo,  a  much  nearer  place,  one  may  fairly 
assume  a  greater  uniformity  of  atmospheric  conditions. 

Then  there  is  another  fact  which  shows  the  greater  convenience  of  the 
course  adopted.  It  is  seen  in  the  following  example  to  which  many  others 
might  be  added. 

On  7th  July,  at  12  o'clock,  on  Edward  Peak,  the  pressure  (reduced  to  0') 
was  428-5  mm.,  and  the  temperature  I'Q  Celsius  (34'"4  F.),  the  corresponding 
readings  being  at  Bujongolo  489-lG  mm.  and  3°-9  Celsius  (39°  F.),  and  at  Fort 
Portal  638-69  mm.,  and  23°-3  Celsius  (74°  F.). 

Calculating  from  these  data  the  difference  of  level  between  Edward  I'eak 
and  Fort  Portal,  and  then  separately  lietween  Edward  Peak  and  Bujongolo,  and 
between  Bujongolo  and  Fort  Portal,  we  get : — * 

Difference  of  level  between  Edward  Peak  and  Fort  Portal   ...   3,355  metres 
Difference  of  level   between    f]dward   Peak  and 

Bujongolo       1,074  metres 

Difference  of  level  between  Bujongolo  and  Fort 

Portal 2,249       „ 


Total  difference  of  level  between  Edward  I'eak 

and  Fort  Portal        •"5,323  metres  (1 0,900  feet) 

Therefore,  with  the  direct  calculation,  and  omitting  Bujongolo,  we  have  a 
difference  of  over  32  metres  (105  feet). 

Such  a  difference  arises  from  the  fact  that  whereas  the  law  of  Laplace 
is  based  on  the  hypothesis  of  a  static  equilibrium  of  the  atmosphere,  and  of 
a  temperature  and  lumiidity  which  decrease  regularly  with  the  altitude,  this 
does  not  take  place  in  the  present  instance. 


*  In  this  estimate  no  account  is  taken  of  the  tension  of  the  aqueous  vapour. 

369  2  B 


Appendix  B. 

In  fact,  the  temperature  l)eing  23° '9  Celsius  (75"  F.)  at  Fort  Portal,  ami 
r-6  Celsius  (34°-4  F.)  at  Edward  Peak,  a  difference  of  22°-3  Celsius  (72°-6  F.), 
if  the  decrease  occurred  proportionately  to  the  altitude  the  temperature  of 
Bujongolo  should  be  aliout  7°-2  Celsius  (-to'  F.),  whereas  it  is  only  3°'9  Celsius 
(39°7  F.).  This,  therefore,  means  that  the  column  of  air  has  a  lower  temperature* 
than  is  assumed  liy  the  theory,  so  that  to  an  equal  difference  of  pressure 
corresponds  a  less  difference  of  altitude. 

Lastly,  in  connection  with  determinations  of  this  nature,  it  is  not  to  be 
forgotten  that  results  now  well  established  are  : — 

1.  That  heights  calculated  by  means  of  thermo-barometric  observations 
are  generally  found  to  be  greater  with  measurements  made  by  day  compared 
with  those  made  by  night.  They  present  a  considerable  daily  range  with  the 
maximum  value  shortly  before  the  maximiuii  daily  temperature,  and  the 
minimum  one  or  two  hours  before  sunrise.  The  extent  of  range  is  influenced 
bj"-  the  season,  the  local  conditions,  and  the  state  of  the  sky. 

2.  That  the  altitudes  calculated  with  the  niean  daily  or  monthly  values  of 
the  observations  are  found  to  be  too  low  in  winter  and  too  high  in  summer  ; 
with  the  annual  mean  they  differ  little  from  the  actual  heights. 


*  Caused  probably  by  the  great  masses  of  ice  on  Buweiizori. 
370 


III. — Meteorological,  etc.,  Observations. 


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373 


Appendix  B. 


Table  IV. 


ENTEBBE. 


FORT  PORTAL. 


u 

a 

Pressure 

in 
inches. 

Asso- 
ciated 
therm. 
F. 

Psychrometer. 

Pressure 

in 

inches. 

Asso- 
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F. 

Psychrometer. 

Months. 

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7 

26  -281 

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7 

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24  964 

59  6 

58  0 

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81-3 

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66-9 

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69-9 

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24  979 

63  1 

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63  9 

25  098 

65-3 

64-1 

60  1 

« 

14 

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76  1 

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25  -075 

72-3 

69-9 

62-7 

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21 

•241 

69-6 

69^0 

66-4 

24  863 

63-5 

65  2 

60  0 

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7 

•272 

65  '7 

65  1 

63-9 

25  •067 

65-9 

61  -9 

59  5 

j>       •  • 

14 

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77^8 

75  5 

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25  048 

72^9 

71^8 

65  1 

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21 

•247 

69  5 

68  9 

66  6 

24  904 

63  0 

65-7 

59  0 

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7 

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66  4 

65-4 

64  2 

25  025 

64  1 

59-7 

58^4 

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14 

•227 

78^1 

75^0 

69  3 

25  098 

75  0 

71  9 

64  9 

»i       •  • 

21 

•246 

69  8 

69  3 

66  4 

25  885 

64-2 

68  5 

62  0 

Means 

26  -648 

71^8 

70^6 

67  1 

24  982 

66  8 

65  8 

60  6 

Correct  pres 

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educed  to 

0°  and  in  u 

im...  H„  = 

=  664  -28 

H  =  63 

7-70 

TempenituK 

*  m  c 

entigradet 

.... 

....  ^  = 

=    21-4 

/  =    1 

8^8 

Vapour  tens 

ion  ii 

1  mm. 

-  f.  = 

=    15^7 

f=    1 

17 

37-t 


III. — Meteorological,  etc.,  Observations. 


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375 


Appendix  B. 


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APPENDIX  C 


CONTAIN.S  A  SUMMARY  OF  THE  GEOLOGICAL, 
PETROGRAPHIC,  AND  MINERALOGICAL 
OBSERVATIONS  WHICH  WERE  MADE  BY  H.R.H. 
THE  DUKE  OF  THE  ABRUZZI'S  RUWENZORI 
EXPEDITION,  TOGETHER  WITH  A  LIST  OF  THE 
NEW  ZOOLOGICAL  AND  BOTANICAL  GENERA 
AND  SPECIES  COLLECTED  IN  THE  RUWENZORI 
REGIONS. 


Note. — All  these  observations  are  fully  embodied  in  the 
scientific  volume  whicli  is  published  only  in  Italian,  and  in 
which  are  also  described  and  illustrated  the  new  zoological 
and   botanical   specimens. 


381 


SUMMARY 

OF  THE  GEOLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS  MADE  IN 
UGANDA  AND  IN  THE  RUWENZORI  RANGE 
DURING  THE  EXPEDITION  OF  H.R.H.  THE 
DUKE   OF   THE   ABRUZZI, 


BY 


ALESSANDRO  EOCCATI. 


I.— UGANDA. 


Overlooking  for  the  present  the  recent  surface  formations  of  concretionary 
limonite  and  of  hiterite,  that  part  of  Uganda  which  was  traversed  by  H.R.H. 
the  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi's  Expedition  was  found  to  he  for  the  most  part 
constituted  of  the  crystalline  rocks  which  foi'm  the  arch;ean  plateau  of  Central 
Africa.  A  not  inconsideraljle  tract,  however,  of  the  region  traversed  is  covered 
with  sedimentary  formations  referable  to  the  Palaeozoic  Age,  and  in  the  inter- 
mediate neighbourhood  of  Fort  Portal  there  is  an  apparently  limited  zone  in 
which  the  crystalline  rocks  are  overlaid  by  recent  volcanic  formations, 
represented  by  stratified  tuffs  which  I  take  to  l:)e  of  subaqueous  origin. 

ArrJuean. — On  leaving  Entebbe  in  the  direction  of  the  west,  archiean 
•crystalline  rocks  are  followed  from  the  shores  of  Lake  Victoria  nearly  to 
Mitiana.  Here  begin  to  appear  the  pal*ozoic  formations,  which,  interrupted 
here  and  there  by  out-cropping  coarse-grained  granite  and  pegmatite,  extend  to 
■within  a  few  miles  of  Kasiba,  where  they  suddenly  disappear  altogether,  their 
place  being  taken  by  the  crystalline  rocks,  which  continue  westwards  without 
further  Ijreak  and  thus  constitute  the  whole  of  the  Euwenzori  Range. 

The  archsean  rocks  are  represented  by  mica-schists,  gneiss,  and  granites  (always 
associated  with  numerous  rjuartzites),  amongst  which  are  here  and  there  noticed 
intrusive  greenstones,  and  seams  of  iiegmatite,  microgmnite,  etc. 

382 


Summary  of  (ieulomcal  Observations. 


?D* 


All  the  gneiss  and  granitic  rocks  are  strikingly  conformable  in  their 
structure  and  composition,  and  their  characters  agree,  broadlj-  speaking,  with 
tlie  descriptions  already  given  Ity  those  writers  who  have  occupied  themselves 
with  the  crystalline  formations  of  South  and  Central  Africa,  thus  further 
showing  the  prevailing  uniformity  in  the  constitution  of  the  extensive  archwan 
plateau. 

In  the  first  archiean  zone,  that  is,  between  the  shores  of  the  lake  and  the 
overlying  primitive  formations  near  Mitiana,  the  iiiica-schkls  seem  to  prevail, 
these  being  associated  with  gneiss  and  thick  quarhife  l)eds.  The  mica  of  the 
micaceous  schists  is  the  muscorife  variety,  which  occurs  in  large  laminw,  thus 
forming  rocks  of  a  very  marked  schistose  type,  but  always  highly  retldened,  and 
often  somewhat  disintegrated  b}^  aerial  deinidation. 

When  we  pass  bej-ond  the  pala?ozoic  and  thus  re-enter  the  archasan  zone, 
we  find  the  region  between  Kasiba  and  .Mu3'ongo  constituted  entirely  of  a  lartie- 
grained  granite,  which  appears  to  form  a  range  running  about  south  to  north. 
In  this  granite  are  noticed  hydiomorphic  forms  oi  felspar,  which  in  their  gi-eatest 
development  reach  two  inches  and  more.  In  the  granular  mass  of  the  rock 
quartz  abounds,  while  the  hiotite  mica  is,  as  a  rule,  relatively  scarce.  Throughout 
the  whole  region  the  granite  is  always  profoundly'  metamorphized,  a  fact  which 
contrasts  with  the  relatively  fresh  aspect  of  the  rock  in  the  granitic  outcrops  of 
the  palaeozoic  zone. 

At  Muyongo  the  mica-schists  again  become  associated  with  gneiss,  the 
latter  predominating.  Such  association,  always  accompanied  by  quurlzite  lieds, 
and  in  places  by  minute  Motite  mica-scJdsts,  and  by  lalc-scliists,  is  continued  right 
up  into  the  Eiiwenzori  Range,  into  the  constituents  of  which  it  largely  enters. 

The  gneiss  is  of  a  schistose  character  which  is  never  very  distinct,  hence  is 
to  be  considered  as  a  granitic  gneiss,  the  micaceous  element  of  which  is  hiotite, 
and  presents  an  always  more  or  less  pronounced  kataclastic  structure.  Charac- 
teristic of  this  rock  are  everywhere  the  really  considerable  abundance  of  the 
ferruginous  minerals,  such  as  magnetife,  Umeniti',  and  Iientatili'  (the  changes  of 
which  explain  the  frequent  reddish  surface  of  gneiss),  and  the  constant  presence 
of  microcline,  which  becomes  the  prevailing,  one  may  even  say  often  the 
exclusive,  felspar  variety  in  this  rock.  This  indeed  is  a  fact  which  has  already 
been  recorded  in  other  parts  of  Central  and  South  Africa. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Ruwenzori  biotite  gneiss,  either  normal  or  with 
a  predominance  of  microcline,  is  partly  replaced  by  amphibolic  gneisses.  In 
several  districts,  but  especially  in  the  granitic  range  between  Kasiba  and 
Muyongo,  are  noticed  outcrops  of  pegmatite  and  micro-granite ;  here  the 
pegmatite  has  never  the  coarse-grained  structure  comparable  to  that  of  granite, 

383 


A])pcn(lix  C. 


although  some  specimens  present  a  typical  graphic  association  of  quartz  with 
microcliiie. 

In  the  Lwamutukuza,  jMuyongo  and  Fort  Portal  districts  I  noticed  in  the 
gneiss-granitic  formation  consideralilo  intrusions  of  diabase  rocks  of  granular  and 
sometimes  coarse-grained  structure.  The  specimens  collected  by  us  never 
contain  olivine,  nor  even  the  chloritic  green  pigment  so  common  in  the  rocks 
of  this  type  in  our  lands  ;  characteristic  is  always  the  abundance  of  ilmenite,  as 
also  the  basic  felspar  often  referalile  to  miorlliitc. 

Thanks  to  the  metamorphosis  of  the  pyroxenes  in  amphiboles,  which  may 
be  easily  followed  in  its  various  transitions,  some  of  these  diabases  pass  over  to 
('liidioiite ;  true  dimite  I  did  not  come  across  in  situ,  but  believe  that  it  occurs  in 
the  Kaibo-Butiti  district.  Conspicuous  also,  between  Fort  Portal  and  Duwona, 
is  a  thick  bed  of  overlying  hypersthene  gahhro  of  coarse  structure. 

Falwor.oic- — The  formations  which  represent  the  Palreozoic  Age  follow  for 
about  50  miles  between  Mitiana  and  Kasiba.  Their  eastern  limit  did  not  appear  to 
be  very  clearly  marked,  whereas  the  western  is  distinctly  defined  by  the  granitic 
range  which  I  have  described  as  extending  from  Kasiba  to  jNIuyongo.  It  is  in 
fact  against  these  very  escarpments  that  the  palajozoic  formations  are  inclined. 

The  rocks  met  in  the  district  are  sandstones,  arkoses,  quaridtes,  quartzite 
breccias  and  various  schists,  micaceous  or  talco-miaiceous.  All  these  rocks,  whose 
clastic  and  metamorphic  origin  is  readily  recognized  in  the  jjetrographic 
laljoratory,  are  for  the  most  part  coloured  a  deep  red,  and  correspond  perfectly 
to  the  rocks  referred  to  the  Palaeozoic  Age,  as  described  by  observers  in  other 
parts  of  Uganda,  as  well  as  in  Congoland  and  South  Africa. 

An  exact  determination  of  age  is  too  often  prevented  liy  a  total  lack  of 
fossils.  I  think,  however,  that  it  may  be  useful  to  point  out  how  some  of  the 
schists  met  by  me  greatly  resemble  analogous  formations  of  the  Permian 
Epoch  in  the  Alps,  and  how,  as  we  proceed  westwards,  the  series  seem  dis- 
tinctly to  pass  from  the  sandstones  to  the  schists,  thus  suggesting  a  steady 
increase  of  metamorphism  in  that  direction. 

liccent  fiiniHiiions. — These  are  represented  by  the  cona-etionari/  liinonite  (the 
ironstone  of  English  writers),  and  liy  lati'iite. 

The  concretionary  limonite  is  one  of  the  characteristic  formations  of  the 
Lake  Victoria  region. 

Already  on  the  east  shore,  and  then  in  a  typical  manner  on  the  west,  in 
the  Entebbe  district  and  beyond  it,  we  may  say  as  far  as  the  Kasiba-Muyongo 
granitic  zone,  the  ground  is  covered  with  a  concretionary  limestone,  at  times 
pisolitic  (pea-like)  or  vacuolated,  always  very  compact,  colour  shifting  from  a 
bright  red  to  a  brownish-yellow  or  dark  brown. 

384 


Summarv  of  Geological  Observations. 

It  supplies  the  Inulding  material  adopted  for  the  structures  of  ICuropeau 
type  at  Entebbe,  Mitiana,  and  other  places.  Its  chemical  composition  is  very 
constant,  containing  a  percentage  of  Fe  2O3,  which  varies  from  .51  to  ')5  per 
cent.  ;  hence  it  diflfers  from  that  of  the  limonite  nodules,  which  are  found 
in  laterite,  in  which  the  percentage  of  Fe  20.,  may  be  as  high  as  82  per  cent. 
In  this  region  the  limonite  forms  several  lising  grounds,  some  over  300  feet 
above  the  present  level  of  the  lake.  As  to  its  origin,  I  believe  it  was  deposited 
in  the  bed  of  the  lake,  at  a  time  when  it  was  far  more  extensive  than  at  present, 
as  is  evident  from  a  whole  series  of  indisputable  facts,  the  decomposition  being 
effected  by  a  mechanical  process  analogous  to  that  which  iti  lacustrine  basins 
originates  the  limonite  (bog  ore)  of  marshy  places. 

Hence,  in  my  opinion,  the  concretionary  liinonite  may  be  of  great 
importance,  as  serving  to  indicate  the  former  limits  reached  by  Lake  Victoria, 
of  which  even  Lake  Isolt,  near  Bujongo,  may  be  mei-ely  a  lemnant.  Similarly 
the  few  patches  of  concretionary  limonite  met  in  the  Butiti  di.strict  may  possible 
represent  old  extensions  of  Lake  Alliert.  In  the  limonite  are  embedded 
numerous  stony  fragments  and  nodules  varying  greatly  in  size.  This  detrita! 
material  is  for  the  most  part  represented  Ijy  quartz,  hyalitie  (glassy),  granular, 
or  jasproid.  I  rarely  noticed  nodides  or  fragments  of  gneiss,  or  of  pahKOzic 
rocks.  So  great  at  times  is  the  abundance  of  (piartzose  nodules  or  fragments 
as  to  give  rise  either  to  conglomerates  or  else  to  breccias  with  linionitic  cement, 
as  the  case  may  be. 

The  scenery  of  the  limonite  region  is  typical  in  the  form  of  its  rising 
grounds.  These  do  not  present  rounded  contours,  such  as  are  normally 
observed  in  other  parts  of  L^ganda,  but  constitute  elongatefl  hills  with  levelled 
summits,  divided  one  from  another  by  deep  fissures,  oi'  else  they  stand  isolated 
on  the  plain,  representing  the  remains  of  what  at  other  times  must  have  lieen 
the  unbroken  surface  of  the  ground.  In  this  respect  the  Entebbe  and  .Mitiana 
districts  are  characteristic. 

The  Inti'rife  resulting  from  the  transformation  of  the  felspar  rocks,  under 
the  action  of  the  atmospheric  agencies,  aided  by  the  high  temperatiu-e  and  by 
the  alternating  droughts  and  heavy  rains,  may  be  said  to  form  the  surface  layer 
of  the  ground  throughout  this  region.  It  is  found  not  oidy  in  the  gneiss  and 
granite  zones,  Init  also  where  the  palaeozoic  occurs  and  forms  on  the  rocks 
ill  situ  a  covering  of  various  thickness,  which  may  in  places  acquire  quite  an 
e.Kceptional  development.  Characteristic  is  always  the  inner  red  colour,  which 
is  due  to  the  excessive  oxidation  of  the  minicrous  iron  ores  that  we  have  seen  to 
be  present  in  those  rocks. 

In  the  laterite  is  often  noticed  an  abundant  micaceous  hematite,  which  in 

385  2  C 


Appendix  C. 

some  places  is  accumulated  liy  the  rain  waters  in  depressioiis  of  the  ground. 
Common  also  at  xarving  depths  are  great  l)eds  of  Jimmilr,  whidi  in  some  places, 
as  at  Butiti,  are  accompanied  by  oxides  of  mtinf/arKve. 

This  limonite  is  mined  liy  the  natives,  who,  liy  the  C'atalunian  process, 
extract  from  it  the  iron  which  they  use  in  the  mamifacture  of  arms  and 
implements,  an  industry  in  which  they  display  much  skill. 

Phmml  Features. — Owing  to  the  abundant  herbaceous  vegetation,  and  to 
the  thick  deposits  of  laterite  and  concretionary  limonite,  which  everywhere 
cover  the  ground,  I  was  unable  to  make  any  conclusive  stratigraphic  observa- 
tions. Nevertheless,  from  the  data  which  we  collected  it  seems  (juite  evident 
that  there  must  be  a  considerable  discordance  between  thearchiean  and  paleozoic 
formations. 

Erodun. — Amongst  the  phenomena  of  erosion,  which,  as  may  be  easily 
understood,  are  very  marked,  mention  should  l»e  made  of  the  denudation,  thanks 
to  which  the  older  rocks,  Ijeing  deprived  of  their  laterite  covering,  become 
exposed  on  the  surface  of  the  ground.  They  usually  assume  the  characteristic 
aspect  of  mammiform  oi'  hummocky  rocks,  the  so-called  roehes  iiniiifonnees  of  the 
French,  which  .so  strangely  resemble  the  glacial  features  of  our  lands.  The  fact 
is  explained  by  the  absence  of  the  factor  of  frost  and  thaw,  in  consequence  of 
which  the  rock.s,  instead  of  becoming  disintegrated,  suffer  only  a  surface  change 
and  rupture,  the  rul)bly  fragments  of  which  get  constantly  displaced  and  washed 
awaj'  by  the  rain  waters. 

Outwardly  the  rocks  often  present  a  crust  of  \arying  thickness,  which  is 
due  to  metaraorphism,  and  this  crust  adheres  in  the  loosest  way  to  the  under- 
lying mass.  Not  seldom  the  adherence  fails  altogether,  and  then  the  transformed 
surface  forms  .slabs  with  rounded  edges  merely  resting  on  the  underlying  rock, 
which  is  still  relatively  intact. 

This  phenomenon  is  seen  where  the  gneisses  crop  out.  In  the  case  of 
granites  there  is  further  noticed  a  cleavage  of  the  rock  in  great  blocks  of 
parallelopiped  form  which,  pi'esenting  greater  resistance  to  decomposition,  end 
liy  being  at  last  completely  isolated  and  detached.  In  the  vicinity  of  Muyongo 
hundreds  of  such  masses  occur  in  the  form  of  prisms,  cubes  and  obelisks,  at 
times  of  remarkably  regular  outline. 

Another  consequence  of  this  predominantly  superficial  disintegration  is 
a  peculiar  ruggedness  which  is  presented  by  the  surface  of  the  rocks,  and  is  due 
to  the  protruding  (piartz  that  resists  the  decomposing  forces,  while  the  felspar 
part  is  broken  up  and  carried  away  by  the  water.  In  the  zone  of  the  coarse- 
grained granite  this  protrusion  on  the  surface  is  noticed  even  in  the  case  of  the 
largely  hydiomor-phic  crystals  of  felspar. 

386 


Siiiiimaiy  of  Geological  Observations. 

In  some  tlistricts,  as  at  Kailjo  and  in  the  ncighljoiirhood  of  Fort  Portal,  are 
found  isolated  masses,  or  accumulations  of  masses,  on  the  summits  or  the  flanks 
of  hilly  elevations  consisting  of  laterito.  In  the  specified  districts  these  masses 
consist  of  diabase,  and  we  ma_y  take  it  that  their  presence  is  due  to  the  resistance 
of  certain  rocks,  perhaps  originally  in  the  form  of  dikes,  and  to  the  metamorphisni 
which  reduced  to  laterite  the  gneiss  or  granite  in  wliicli  they  were  embedded. 
In  some  places  it  is  not  improbable  that  it  may  lie  a  question  of  some  kind  of 
transport. 

Vulmukm. — Eecent  igneous  formations  are  met  at  the  eastern  foot  of 
Kuwenzori.  Here  they  serve  to  indicate  the  presence  of  one  or  more  lines  of 
fracture  in  relation  wdth  that  great  Uift  Valley  with  which  originated  the 
depression  comprising  Lakes  Tanganika,  Kivu,  Albert  Edward,  Alliert,  and  the 
Semliki  Valley,  and  which  contributed  to  the  isolation  of  the  liuwen/.nri  Kaiige. 
In  the  Fort  Portal  district  volcanic  action  is  indicated  liy  thermal  springs 
(Bntaiuika),  and  by  stratified  tuff  which  cover  the  ground  and  form  a  series  of 
little  volcanoes,  whose  craters  are  now  mostly  flooded  with  tarns.  Thev  form  a 
chain  which  is  disposed  very  nearly  in  the  direction  from  south  to  north. 

The  tuffs  of  this  formation  are  partly  compact  and  partly  of  loose  structure. 
All,  however,  are  of  subaqueous  origin,  and  thus  attest  the  greater  extension  in 
former  times  occupied  by  Lake  Albert  Edward,  which  nnist  piciliably  have  liccn 
united  with  Lake  Albert  towards  the  north. 

The  compact  tuffs  are  of  a  dark  hue,  and  very  hard,  and  yield  a  cement 
consisting  of  a  basic  silicate  rich  in  iron  and  easily  decomposed  by  acids.  Such 
tuffs  occur  in  all  the  craters  of  the  series,  only  more  or  less  transformed,  the 
change  consisting  in  a  tendency  to  acquire  a  red  colour  due  to  the  decomposi- 
tion of  the  silicate  of  iron. 

The  tuffs  of  looser  structure,  which  are  met  partly  in  the  craters  and  in  all 
the  surface  formations,  are  of  a  colour  passing  from  white  to  grey.  They  derive 
principally  from  fiagments  of  the  compact  tuff  cemented  by  calcite  after  the 
complete  discoloration  caused  by  the  metauKirphic  process.  The  enclosed  exotic 
fragments  ;ire  numerous,  especially  in  the  non-compact  variety,  and  the\' 
consist  of  fragments  of  the  most  diverse  sizes,  whether  water-borne  or  not. 
These  ingredients  may  for  the  most  part  be  considered  as  coming  from  rocks  of 
the  Kuwenzori  Range,  such  as  gneisses,  dialiases,  diorites,  garnet-bearing  rocks, 
amphibolites,  etc.  In  the  hill  at  Fort  Portal  the  tuffs  are,  moreover,  rich  in 
vegetable  remains  which,  unfortunately,  cannot  now  lie  determined.  In  the 
Butiti — Fort  Portal  region,  mineral  springs  are  also  niuuerous,  and  the  country 
is  suliject  to  frequent  earthquakes. 

387  2  C  2 


Appendix  C. 


I1._RUWENZ0RI    RANGE. 

Liflwlof/ical  Cmdihilion. — The  lliiweiizori  Range,  as  already  pointed  out  by 
Scott  Elliot,  is  regarded  as  a  part  of  the  archajan  formation  of  Equatorial 
Africa  which  has  been  upheaved  through  phenomena  of  dislocation.  In  fact, 
it  is  found  to  be  essentially  constituted  of  various  gneisses  and  mira-scJiists  in 
which  must  have  Ijeen  originally  enii)edded  the  (ireenslones  which,  after  l)eing 
exposed  by  the  phenomena  of  denudation,  to  which  they  offered  the  greatest 
resistance,  now  form  the  loftiest  crests  of  the  whole  range.  Ascending  the 
valley  of  the  Mobuku,  we  meet  with  a  regular  succession  of  rocks,  in  which 
first  occur  the  i/neisses  whose  correspondeueo  witli  the  analogous  rocks  of 
Uganda  is  olsvious. 

Amongst  these  gneisses  the  dominant  variety  appears  to  be  the  hiufi/e  and 
microdine  of  the  Fort  Portal  district.  With  it  are  associated  iinraeeous- 
niiiphiJiiiJitirs  and  amphibolitic  varieties  in  which  the  amphiholc  is  represented 
1)V  Iwnihknile.  In  the  amphil)olic  gneisses,  however,  the  microcline  is  rare  or 
absent,  being  displaced,  besides  orthoclase,  liy  an  aliundance  of  pla</ioclase 
referable  to  andesife. 

The  kafadusfic  structure  still  continues  together  with  frequent  metallic 
ores,  such  as  hematite,  magnetite,  ilmenite,  and  chroniite,  some  varieties  being 
rich  in   tnnriiudine  and   giimet. 

The  gneisses  range  up  to  about  11,600  feet  in  association  with  inica-sddsts, 
the  first  type,  however,  being  always  dominant.  Qmirtdtes  also  abound  both 
in  thick  beds  and  niidules. 

Above  11,600  feet  the  gneisses  disappear,  the  iima-sdtists  alone  persisting, 
associated  with  quart.:ites,  and  following  without  break  up  to  the  zone  of  the 
greenstones. 

The  rnica-schists  of  the  Mobuku  Valley  are  of  two  kinds,  which  constantly 
recur  :  /iiinutc  and  foliaceous  (lamellar). 

The  first  are  formed  of  minute  muscmile  lamina',  with  abundant  quartz,  and 
ne.xt  to  it  felspar,  mostly  andesite ;  in  these  the  schistosity  is  not  always  evident, 
while  their  compactness  and  hai'dness  are  very  great. 

In  the  foliaceous  kind  niuscoiite  prevails  in  large  white  silvery  laniina>, 
with  which  is  associated  a  little  minute  hiotitr,  while  qnaii:  and  felsjuir  l)ecome 
rare.     In  this  second  variety  the  schistosity  and  the  cleavage  are  clearly  seen. 

The  two  mica-schist  types  form  beds  of  varying  thickness,  either  standing 
quite  apart  or  else  passing  gradually  into  one  another.     They  are  always  and 

388 


Summary  of  Geological  Observations. 

everywhere  rich  in  tonrmalinc  uiul  metallic  ores,  ilmenilp,  rhromUe,  hematiU  and 
magnetih.  In  some  places  garml  anil  apufiti'  are  also  noticed,  while  in  the 
schistose  surfaces  fine  filirous  aggregates  of  riianite  and  xilliiiiiuii/c  are  common. 

On  the  Kichuchu  Plain,  hesides  the  existence  of  a  lahradorite  yncm,  the 
presence  is  conspicuous  of  some  dikes  of  bamlt,  which  ramify  and  intersect 
the  gneiss-mica-schist  formation.  This  basalt,  which  constitutes  the  only 
evidence  of  recent  volcanic  action  met  by  us  in  the  range,  is  microcrystalline 
and  of  holocrystalline  type.  On  the  Biamba  Plain  I  further  met  a  diuhusr  in 
which  the  opaque  element  is  represented  by  chromite  alone. 

Towards  12,000  feet  the  zone  of  the  mica-schists  disappears,  and  the 
greenstones  come  to  the  surface ;  these  constitute  exelu-sively  ,Mts.  Baker  and 
Stanley,  and  are  associated  with  gneiss  on  the  other  heights  visited  by  the 
ex'ijedition.  On  the  western  slope  of  ilt.  Baker  the  identical  mica-schists 
reappear,  which  we  had  met  in  the  Molniku  Valley,  but  on  the  west  side  they 
range  somewhat  higher  than  on  the  east. 

The  zone  of  the  greenstones  is  constituted  essentially  of  an  amphihiilili- 
schist,  in  which  the  schistose  element  is  more  or  less  evident;  it  is  usually-  micro- 
crystalline  and  formed  of  hornhlendf  with  quartz,  and  in  the  second  place  frhpar 
(mostly  andesite),  and  in  this  case  it  passes  over  to  a  diorite  schist.  From  this 
amphibolic  schist  are  developed  some  varieties  due  to  the  substitution  of 
(K'tinuUtf  for  hontlilijndt',  or  else  to  its  association  with  (jdrnrt,  lilofitf  and pi/id.reni-. 

Abundant  in  these  rocks  are  ilincnite  and  epidole,  the  latter  also  forming 
numerous  beds,  veins  and  nodules,  some  of  which  are  of  extraordinary  thickness, 
as  much  as  30  feet  in  the  longer  axis.  Moreover,  numerous  beds  of  (jmirtzite 
everywhere  accompany  the  amphiliolic  schists,  with  which  in  the  various 
mountains  are  associated  other  rocks  in  the  following  way : — 

Mt.  Baker. — Qvartsiferous  dimile  ;  compact  amphibolite  which  forms  the 
Edward  Peak,  on  the  summit  of  which  are  numerous  fulgurites;  cri/slaHiiie 
limestone  :  chlorite  schist,  epidosyte,  grenatite  ;  diubase. 

At  several  points  on  this  mountain  are  noticed  some  lenticels,  geodes  and 
small  veins  of  pyrites,  calco-pyrites  and  ilmeitile,  with  jelspars,  ijuart:  and  calcitr  ; 
on  Wollaston  Peak  a  small  vein  of  galena  with  a  gangue  of  calcite  crops  out. 

Mt.  Stanley. — Compact  amphibolite ;  amphibolic  schist  with  large  garnits, 
diorite  and  lahradorite  diorite  which  forms  the  Alexandra  Peak,  and  probably 
also  the  Margheiita  ;  it  is  noted  for  its  various  types  of  fulgurites,  epidodtes  and 
diabase. 

On  this  mountain  also  pyrite  and  especially  ilmcnite  are  plentiful,  as  are 
also  copper  ores  :  chulco-pyritc  tetrahedrites,  malachite. 

Mt.  LtiGi  Di  Savoia. — Here  also  amphibolic  schist  crops  out,  although 

389 


Appendix  C. 

the  inouiiiaiu  is  essentially  constituted  of  gneiss,  the  hiotitc  variety  and  uikivriine 
being  common  on  the  lower  parts  of  the  mountain.  This  gneiss,  associated 
with  wka-xchMts,  may  be  traced  from  Ibanda  liy  the  Mahoma  Valley,  not  only 
up  to  the  crests  of  the  mountain,  liut  probably  also  extends  to  the  south  and 
west  of  the  range. 

It  should  be  mentioned  that  in  Mt.  Lnigi  di  Savoia  there  are  lai'ge  dikes  of 
macroscopic  pcf/iiiati/e  i-ich  in  <iarnd  and  tounwdine,  haplite  and  micro-granite  in 
the  neighl)Ourhood  of  Stairs  Peak ;  diabase,  which  crops  out  at  Sella  Peak,  where 
it  aliounds  in  fulgurites  ;  diorite,  epidosyte  and  crystalline  chalk,  which  seems  to 
point  at  contact  between  the  gneisses  and  the  amphibolic  schists. 

^It.  Speke. — The  prevailing  rock  appears  to  be  a  granitoid  gneiss  with 
biotite  and  abundant  cpidole  ;  with  the  gneiss  would  appear  to  be  associated 
diorite,  amphiboUte  and  micro-granite. 

Mt.  Emin.  —Yields  qnarizitt'  and  a  diorite  analogous  to  that  of  -Mt.  Stanley. 

Mt.  Geshi. — The  dominant  rock  again  appears  to  be  ainphihoUc  schist  in 
association  with  quartzite  and  epidosyte. 

In  the  Bujuku  Valley  the  prevalent  form  appears  to  be  of  a  type  analogous 
to  that  occurring  on  Mt.  Speke.  This  valley,  as  well  as  that  of  the  Mubuku, 
would  seem  in  its  upper  reaches  to  open  out  in  contact  with  gneiss  and 
amphibolic  rocks. 

Teetonic  Structure. — The  tectonic  feature  by  which  the  Kuwenzori  ^lassif  is 
outlined  and  clearly  characterized  is  represented  by  two  great  zones  of  fracture. 
One  lying  to  the  west  is  of  vast  size,  having  given  rise  to  the  Semliki  Valley, 
and  in  this  direction  completely  isolated  the  enormous  mass  of  the  Kuwenzori 
Kange.  The  other  (eastern)  zone  of  fracture  is  less  marked,  but  well  outlined 
by  the  volcanic  formations,  in  which  are  included  those  of  Fort  Portal. 

In  relation  with  the  two  main  zones  of  fracture,  others  occur  in  the  interior 
of  the  range,  and  these  are  disposed  in  two  difl'erent  directions,  one  west  and 
east — that  is  to  say,  normal  to  the  chief  trends — the  other,  on  the  contrary, 
running  in  parallel  lines  from  south  to  north.  To  these  lines  of  iinier  fracture 
are  due  several  valleys  and  many  of  the  secondary  glens,  which  tend  to  give 
their  characteristic  isolation  to  all  the  principal  heights. 

The  stratigraphic  disposition  is  regular.  As  we  ascend  the  Molniku 
Valley,  we  everywhere  notice  in  the  gneiss  and  mica-schist  beds  an  incline  from 
east  to  south-east.  This  incline  is,  on  the  whole,  maintained  in  Mt.  Baker, 
and  is  clearly  seen,  for  instance,  in  Cagni  Peak.  In  Mt.  Luigi  di  Savoia  the 
east-south-east  slope  recurs,  with  a  tendency  to  the  south  which  farther  on 
becomes  due  south.  In  Mt.  Stanley  the  south-east  tends  to  change  to  west 
or  north-west,  although  the  south-east  to  east  incline  reappears  in  the  Bujuku 

390 


Summaiy  of  Geological  Observations. 

Valley.  Moreover,  the  slcjpes  of  the  strata  are  everywhere  very  steep,  in  places 
as  much  as  and  upwards  of  60 \ 

Kuwenzori  must  accordingly  lie  regarded  as  resulting  from  an  anticlinal  or 
ellipsoidic  upheaval,  ivith  a  slope  to  the  west  on  the  west  side,  t(j  the  east  on 
the  east  side,  passing  to  the  south  on  the  south  side,  and  proliably  to  the  north 
on  the  north  side. 

The  presence  of  this  ellipsoidic  upheaval,  comliined  with  the  phi-noniencin 
of  the  great  fractures  above  mentioned,  and  with  the  existence  in  tiic  cenrial 
parts  of  rocks  resisting  subaerial  disintegration,  would  explain  the  origin  uf  the 
Kuwenzori  Eange  and  of  its  lofty  sunniiits. 

Old  Gluriatian. — A  phenomenon  of  great  importance  is  the  vast  develoiinient 
of  the  glaciers  of  the  Kuwenzori  Kange  during  the  glacial  period. 

The  valleys  of  the  Mobuku,  the  Hujuku,  and  the  Mahoma  were  tilled  by 
the  glaciers  which  descended  from  the  chief  mountains.  These  uniting  in  a 
single  ice-stream  of  great  size,  and  filling  up  the  Lower  Mobuku  Valley,  nui.st 
have  easily  extended  as  far  as  the  plain  of  llianda. 

Proofs  of  this  early  glacial  e-\pansion  are  afforded  1iy  the  numerous  large 
erratic  blocks  ;  by  the  old  moraines  which  occupy  the  .Mobuku  Valley  from 
Bihunga  to  Kichuchu,  and  above  which  rises  the  Xakitawa  Plain ;  lastly,  by  the 
rolled  and  striated  rocks  which  are  so  common  on  the  higher  parts  of  the 
mountain.  Kegarding  the  Xakitawa  moraine,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  the 
lake  lying  south-west  of  that  district,  and  liy  the  observers  generally  considered 
as  volcanic,  is,  on  the  contrary,  inter-morainie. 

Disregarding  the  erratic  boulders  which  occur  on  the  plain  of  Ilianda,  and 
are  not  perhaps  due  to  direct  glacial  transportation,  the  first  undoubted  proofs 
of  old  glaciation  were  met  by  me  near  the  ascent  of  Bihunga,  that  is,  at  about 
4,500  feet,  whereas  at  present  the  glaciers  do  not  descend  lower  than  about 
12,600  feet. 

On  the  western  slope,  too,  the  traces  are  evident  of  the  passage  of  the  old 
glaciers  with  scratched  and  rounded  blocks  and  morainic  formations.  We  were, 
however,  unable  to  discover  how  far  they  had  ranged  on  that  side,  ;is  we  did 
not  advance  very  far  in  that  direction. 

Jlcccnt  Glaciatim. — The  Kuwenzori  glaciers  are  referred  to  the  so-called 
equatorial  type  ;  that  is  to  say,  they  form  ice-caps  which  are  at  times  of  great 
thickness,  and  more  or  less  completely  cover  the  summits  of  the  mountains. 
From  these  ice-caps  branches  ramify  downwards  and  advance  into  the  ra\nnes, 
but  seldom  range,  and  then  oidy  a  little  way,  beyond  the  lower  level  of 
the  perennial  snows,  which  here  lies  between  1.3,  .350  and  13,500  feet. 

The  po.sition  of  the  glaciers  once  determined,  the  lateral  moraines  may  be 

.391 


Appendix  C. 

neglected  ;  nor  do  the  iiiideilying  ones  appear  to  have  any  great  dev(;l(jpnieiit.s, 
judging  at  least  from  the  frontal  moraines,  which  are  never  very  extensive. 

The  position  of  the  glaciers  likewise  includes  the  existence  of  depressions 
in  which  snow  might  lie  collected  ;  falling  on  the  whole  surface  of  the  glacier, 
the  snow  passes  directly  and  rapidly  to  the  state  of  ice,  a  phenomenon  which 
is  easily  explained  by  the  atmospheric  conditions  of  these  highlands,  which, 
during  certain  hours  of  the  day  often  tend  to  develop  high  temperatures. 

One  of  the  characteristics  of  the  Kuwenzori  glaciers  is  the  presence  of 
enormous  cornices  from  which  hang  multitudes  of  large  stalactites,  which 
become  a  firm  support  to  the  cornices  themselves.  The  origin  of  these  curious 
stalactites  is  again  to  be  sought  in  the  special  meteorological  conditions,  which 
tend  to  rapid  changes  of  temperature  not  only  between  day  and  night,  but  also 
at  different  times  of  the  day  itself,  according  to  the  state  of  the  weather. 

Another  noteworthy  feature  is  the  water  welling  up  in  front  of  the 
glaciers,  which  never  presents  that  turbid  look  which,  luider  like  conditions, 
is  seen  in  the  melting  waters  of  the  Alpine  glaciers.  The  water  is  perfectly 
limpid,  which  shows  that  the  movement  of  the  glaciers  is  but  slight,  at  least 
at  present.  Hence  the  erosion  must  also  be  insignificant,  and  this  again 
explains  the  absence  of  considerable  underlying  mora)nes. 

In  fact,  all  the  Kuwenzori  glaciers  are  nowadays  in  a  state  of  rapid 
retreat.  Of  this  proof  is  afforded  in  the  recently  abandoned  morainic 
formations  which  are  noticed  in  many  places  ;  in  the  wide  areas  of  polished 
rocks  at  the  sides  and  in  front  of  the  glaciers;  in  a  zone  not  yet  invaded 
by  the  mosses  and  lichens,  which  are  typically  abundant  even  on  the  most 
elevated  tracts  of  the  range ;  lastly,  in  the  whitish  colour  so  often  noticed 
on  the  surface  of  those  rocks  which  have  only  recently  got  rid  of  the  mantle 
of  snow  and  ice  by  which  they  were  formerly  covered. 

Erosive  PlienoiKtna. — On  the  lower  part  of  the  Kuwenzori  liange  identical 
climatic  conditions  lead  to  the  identical  phenomena  of  meteoric  denudation 
that  are  also  observed  in  Uganda.  We  have  accordingly'  an  abimdant  laterite 
formation  on  which  a  rank  herlwceous  vegetation  is  developer] ;  here  also  is 
that  rounded  form  of  the  exposed  rocks  with  their  sham  aspect  of  roclies 
mvulonn^e^  above  indicated  ;  further,  the  outward  protrusion  of  some  of  the  more 
durable  components;  the  cleavage  of  the  rock  in  superficial  slabs,  and  so  on. 

The  zone  of  tbe  old  morainic  formations  is  clothed  with  a  dense  arboreal  or 
bushy  vegeUition  of  tropical  tj'pe,  and  this  protects  the  luiderlying  soil  from 
erosive  action.  Here  and  there,  however,  are  noticed  rents  and  rifts  caused  by 
the  torrential  and  swelling  waters,  with  formations  in  .some  places  of  tj-pical 
fungi-form  rocks,  as  near  Xakitawa. 

392 


Siinininry  <>f  ( Jcological  Ohsorvntions. 

Tovviirds  9,000  foot  tho  poisistoiitly  luuiii.l  cliiiiulo  j^ivos  riso  to  tho  zono 
of  tho  eryptojiuius,  :uid  to  tlio  Imgs  that  ooiistitiito  oiio  nf  tlic  chjilitotoiistic 
teiituros  of  Kuwoiizoii,  Fioin  this  ;iltitii<lo,  wo  iiuiy  sjiy  ri^ht  \\\)  to  tlio 
gliieiofs,  tho  ground  is  ovoi ywhoro  uiiiiitoi  ruptodly  oovorod  with  ;i  hoggy  \K".a- 
tiirf  layor  wliiih  not  soldoiii  i'c:ich(^s  of  oxooi^ls  ;i  thiciviioss  of  I'O  iiu'hos.  On 
this  sul>str:itiini  is  dovohipod  ;i  vigorous  vogotiitioii  of  niossos,  hi'p:itica' 
(livoi-worts)  and  liolions,  \vhi^■ll  sprcid  a  thick  iiianth^  ovor  tho  protiiuiing 
rocks,  tho  orratio  liouidors  and  tho  trunks  of  iho  troos,  whothor  li\  ing  oi' falion 
with  age,  and  for  oontiu'ios  aoounuihitiug  on  tiio  siu-faoo  of  tlio  ground. 

Over  this  ovorl^dug  stratum  of  hog  ami  vogotahlo  (h)tritus  thoio  is  Imt 
n  slight  How  of  water,  absorhed  ;is  it  is  ;is  l)y  a  lingo  sjiongo.  Tho  snrfato 
layer  thus  forms  a  protootiiig  oarpoi  for  tho  rocks  «  hirli.  wiioii  ihcv  i:iii  ho 
ijoon  iindornoath,  appear  to  ho  relatively  inlart,  escaping  as  they  do  in  gi'oat 
measure  from  the  erosive  phenomena. 

Beyond  tho  lioggy  zone  tho  smt'.-ii-c  action  <if  iho  niclcoric  agents  comes 
again  into  jilay,  but  it  must  act  very  slowly  in  eonsocjuenc(^  of  ihc  almridant 
vegetation  of  the  erustaceous  liehons  covering  the  rocks.  The  nature  of  those 
rocks,  largely  constituted  of  aniphiiiole  and  quartz,  also  e.xplaiiis  the  slighter 
action  of  atmospheric  denudation  whicii  has  freer  pl.iy  in  tho  gneiss  and 
mica-schist  zone. 

Attention  may  again  bo  called  to  tho  charactciislic  protrusion  of  the  locks 
composed  of  more  resisting  olomonts.  This  fact  is  appaicnt  in  the'  IkmIs  hI 
garnotdiearing  rocks,  where  the  largo  crystals  of  garnet  |)idtrude  with  an 
almost  variohu-  or  pitted  aspect.  Tho  phenomenon  is  typical  also  in  the  mica- 
schist  zone  on  the  western  slope  of  .Mi.  llakcr,  where  tho  mica-schi.st  is 
associated  with  abundant  cpiartz  in  lenticular  veins  and  thin  layers  which 
everywhere  form  jirotuborancos,  sometimes  even  very  conspicuous  on  the 
surface  of  the  groiuid. 

La.stly,  in  the  higher  zones  to  the  modifying  and  erosive  action  of  tho 
atmosphere  is  aildod  the  o.\tromely  potent  factor  of  frost  and  thaw.  In  this 
case,  wherever  the  underlying  rocks  are  iKjt  protected  by  the  masses  of  ice,  we 
Knd  long  stretches  of  ground  covered  with  loose  chaotic  and  shifting  detritus 
analogous  to  what  is  noticed  on  the  crests  ami  higher  slopes  of  our  Alpine 
heit,dit.s. 


393 


Appendix  C. 


ALPHABETIC  LIST  OF  THE  MINERALS  COLLECTED 
IN  THE  RUWENZOIH  RANGE. 


Actinolite. 

Albite. 

Apatite. 

Calcite. 

Chalcopyrite. 

Chlorite. 

Chromite. 

Diopside. 

Epidote. 

Galena. 

Garnet. 


Ilmenite. 

Magnetite. 

ilalachite. 

Microcline. 

Muscovite. 

Pyrite. 

Quartz. 

Tetrahedrite. 

Tourmaline. 

Tremolite. 


ZOOLOGY. 

New  Genera,  Species,  and  Sub-species  cotj.ected  by  the  Expedition: 

OF   H.R.H.  THE    DUKF.   OF   THE   ABRUZZI. 

Mammals     ...     Nyetinomus  Aloysii  Sabaudise,  Feata. 

Felis  pardus  sub.  spec.  Ruwenzorii,  Caincnino. 

Birds  ...     Anthoscopus  Roccatii,  .S((//Y(/fon'. 

Lagonosticta  Ugand;?,  Salradori. 
Bycanistes  Aloysii,  Salvadmi. 
Xylobucco  Aloysii,  Salradori. 

Reptiles       ...     Lygosoma  Aloysii  Sabaudise,  Peracca. 

Molluscs       . . .     Ennea  Roccatii,  Pollonera. 
Ennea  Sellse,  Pollonera. 
Ennea  Camerani,  Pollonera. 
Ennea  Aloysii  Sabaudise,  Pollonera. 
Streptaxis  Cavallii,  Pollonera. 
Urocyclus  zonatus,  Pollonera. 


394 


Zoological  List. 

Molluscs  Urooyclus  tenuizonatus,  Follmem. 

— cantd.     Urocyclus  suhfasciatus,  Pullmrra. 
Urocyclus  raripunctatus,  Polloutra. 
Atoxoii  ornatum,  PoUonero. 
Atoxon  Cavallii,  Polhnera. 
Dendrolimax  leprosus,  PoUonera. 
Mierocyclus  modestus,  Pullonera. 
Microcyclus  incertus,  Pollmiera. 
Triehotoxon  Eoccatii,  Pollimcra. 
Kirkia  nov.  gen.,  PoUonera. 
Helicarion  Aloysii  Sabaudise,  PoUonera. 
Vitriiia  Cagnii,  PnUonrra. 
Vitrina  ibandensis,  PoUanera. 
Martensia  entebbeiia,  I'oUiincra. 
Fruticicola  Ijujiiiigoleiisis,  PoUonera. 
Fruticicola  Bihungfe,  PoUonera. 
Bulimiims  Aloysii  Sabaudias,  PoUonera. 
Limicolaria  tussiformis  var.  nov.  ugandensis,  PoUmiera. 
Limicolaria  Eoccatii,  PoUimern. 
Limicolaria  rectistrigata  var.  nov.  simplicissimus,  PoUonera,  and 

var.  nov.  .simplex,  I'oUomra. 
Limicolaria  pura,  PoUonera. 
Limicolaria  pura  var.  diluta,  PoUonera. 
Limicolaria  Cavallii,  PoUonera. 
Glessula  De-Albertisi,  PoUonera. 
Glessula  ferussacioides,  PoUonera. 
Homorus  olivaceus,  I'oUonera. 
Subulina  Eoccatii,  PoUonera. 
Suliulina  linwenzorensis,  PoUonera. 
Suliulina  Euwenzorensis  var.  elongata,  PoUonera. 
Vaginula  Eoccatii,  PoUonera. 


Beetles         ...     Hydaticus  Eochei,  Camerano. 
Cillajus  Cavallii,  Camerano. 
Cillseus  Cagnii,  Canierano. 
Hydrophilus  Luanei,  Canierano. 
Li-Kus  Eoccatii,  Camerano. 
Sipalus  Aloysii  Sabaudiae,  Camerano. 
Eumelosomus  Aloysii  Sabaudite,  PangeUa. 

39.5 


Appendix   C. 


Dermaptera 


Orthoptera 


Myi'iapoda 


Crustacea 


Worms 


Pygi'licraim  livida,  l!(in-Ih. 
Anisolaliis  compressa,  limrlll. 
Genolabis  picea,  Borelli. 
Spongiphora  Aloysii  Sabaiidia?,  Bm-elU. 
Chsetospania  iigandatia,  BoreUi. 
Opisthocosinia  Roccatii,  BorcUi. 
Apterygida  Cagnii,  BoreUi. 
Apterygida  Cavallii,  BcrrelU. 
Ceratinoptera  portalensis,  (i'ii/lin-To!<. 
Hemithyrsocera  sabauda,  GiijUo-Tos. 
Blatta  ugandana,  Gif/lio-Tos. 
Pyrgophyma  ikiv.  gen.,  (JifiUo-T(i». 
Pyrgophyma  saliaudum,  (rifiliii-Tos. 
Euprepocneniis  il)andana,  Giiflio-l'of. 
Tylopsis  dubia,  Gi<iliii-Tos. 

Cryptops  Aloysii  Sabaiidiae,  Silreiitri. 
Scutigerella  Puwenzorii,  Silri:<fri. 
Phceodesmus  Aloysii  Sabaudiie,  Silrcstri. 
Habrodesmus  Cagnii,  Sihvstri. 
Julidesmus  Cavallii,  Sihvgfn. 
Scaptodesmus  Eoccatii,  Silvesfri. 
Scaptodesmus  rugifer,  Silvestri. 
Compsodesmus  Sella?,  Silvestri. 
TymViodesmus  iiisignitus,  Silvestri. 
Archispirostreptus  il)aiKla,  Silvesfri. 
Archispirostreptus  virgator,  Silrcstri. 
Archispirostreptus  iiakitawa,  Silvestri. 
Odontopyge  Aloysii  Saljaudiw,  Silvestri. 
Odontopyge  A\'inspearei,  Silrcstri. 
Odontopyge  Petigaxi,  Silvestri. 
Odontopyge  Ollieri,  Silvestri. 

Potamou  Aloj'sii  Sabaudi;¥,  Xchili. 
Synarmadilloides  nov.  gen.,  Xohili. 
Synarma<lilloides  Koccatii,  Xnhili. 

Dichogaster  Aloysii  Sabaiidiii.',  Coi/iietli. 
Dichogaster  Roccatii,  Cm/iiet/i. 
Dichogaster  Cagnii,  Coipu'tti. 
Dichogaster  excelsa,  Cocjnetti. 


396 


Botanical  List. 

Worms  Dichogaster  Duwoni,  ('oi/iirffi. 

— contd.     Dichogaster  Sella?,  Coijnrtii. 

Dichogaster  Kuwenzorii,  Voijndti. 
Dichogaster  demoniaca,  Coc/neUi. 
Dichogaster  toroensis,  Cugnetti. 
Gordiodrilus  mohuccamis,  Coi/tif/fi. 
Pareudrilus  palli(iiis,  Co;/ni'///. 
Eminoscolex  Rochei,  (Joijnetti. 
Eminoscok'x  Nakitava^  Civ/nelti. 
Neumaiiniella  a>quatorialis,  Coynctti. 
Alma  Aloysii  Sabaudise,  CocjneMi. 

Nematoids   ...     Strongylus  miuutoitles,  I'lininii. 
Strongylus  Cavallii,  I'aniim. 
Uncinaria  muridis,  I'artina. 
Physaloptera  Aloysii  Sabaudiw,  rarona. 
Physaloptera  Ruweiizorii,  Parana. 

Of  all  the  groups  of  animals  above-mentioned  the  expedition  collected  other 
already  known  species  ;  many  of  these  had  not  yet  been  recorded  in  the  Uganda 
and  Ruwenzori  regions.  Hence,  in  respect  of  the  distribution  of  animal  species 
also,  the  exf)edition  has  made  valuable  contrilnitions  to  our  knowledge  of  the 
African  fauna. 


SUMMARY  (3F  THE  PLANTS  COLLECTED  BY  THE 
EXPEDITION  OF  THE  DUKE  OF  THE  ABEUZZI 
ON  THE  RUWENZOBI  RANGE. 

Embryophyta  Siphonagama  (Auct.  E.  Chiovenda  et  F.  Cortesi). 

Species  collected     ...  ...     93. 

New  Species  ...         ...     18. 

Graminaceae     ...     1.  Andropogon  moliukensis,  Chior. 

2.  Deschampsia  ruwensorensis,  Chioi: 

3.  Festuca  gelida,  ( liior. 

4.  Oxytenanthera  ?  ruwensorensis,  Chiw. 

397 


A})pendix  C. 


Asteraceae 

...     5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 

10. 

11. 

iL'. 

Hosacese 

...   13. 

14. 

1.5. 

Ruhiaceae 

...   IG. 

Urticaceae 

..    17. 

Ciassulaceae 

...   18. 

Helichry.sum  Diici.s  Aprutii,  Cliiov 
Seiiecio  coreop.soides,  Cliior. 
Seiiecio  Pirottie,  Chior. 
Senecio  Mattirolii,  Chim: 
Seiiecio  Ducis  Aprutii,  Chiov. 
Senecio  Koccatii,  Chiov. 
Cai-duus  blepharoleptis,  Chiov. 
Erlangea  squarrosiila,  dtior. 

Ak-hemilla  Roccatii,  Ciiit. 
Ak'hemilla  Ducis  Aprutii,  Curf. 
Alchemillu  tiiik'ntata,  Corf. 

Euliia  ruwenzoreii.sis,  Curt. 

Parietaria  ruwenzorensis,  Cori. 

Seduni  Diici.s  Aprutii,  (^ll■t. 


Pteridophyta  (Auet.  K.  Pirotta). 


Species  collected  :    Hynieiiophyllaceffi. 
Cyatheacese 
PolypodiaceEB 
Lycopodiacese 


1 
1 

20 
2 

24 


New  species     ..;     4 

Cyatheacese...         ...     Cyathea  Sell*, /'//WAr  (ad.)  (int.). 

Polypodiaceae  ...     Woodsia  nixalis,  Pirntta. 

Asplenium  Ducis  Aprutii,  Pimtta. 
Elaphoglossuni  Ruwenzorii,  I'lwttu. 

Musci  (Auct.  G.  Negri). 

Species  collected        ...     38 
New  species  ...  ...     22 

Sphagnum  Aloysii  Sabaudise,  Negri. 

Sphagnum  Ruwenzorense,  Negri. 

Dicranum  petrophilum,  Negri. 

Campylopus  sericeous,  Negri. 

Campylopus  Cagnii,  Negri. 

Fissidens  Moliukensis,  Negri. 


398 


Botanical  List. 

Musci — canhl. 
Leptdontium  Gambaragarae,  Negri. 
Tortula  Cavallii,  Xetjrl. 
Anoectangium  Sellaj,  Xiijri. 
Anoectangium  fuscum,  Xc(jri. 
Anoectangium  flexuosum,  X>'//rL 
Zygodoii  Roecatii,  Xci/ri. 
Zygodon  hirsutum,  Xei/ri. 
Amphydium  Aloysii  Sabandise,  A^egri. 
^laeroinitriuin  fragile,  Xci/ri. 
Brachymeiiium  Cagiiii,  Xei/ri. 
Pohlia  Aloysii  Sabaudise,  Xnjri. 
Bryum  Selh*,  Xc(jri. 
Breutelia  auronitens,  Xegii. 
Catharina?a  Cavallii,  Xegri. 
Polytrichum  cuprcuni,  Xgri. 
Braehythccium  Koceatii,  Xegri. 

Hepaticae  (Anct.  G.  (iola) 

Species  collected :  Marchantiaceie  sp.     ...         ...         ...  3 

Jungermanniaceie  anakrogynoe  .sp.  ...  i 

Juiigermanniacese  akrogynaj  sp.      ...  LMi 

sp.  33 
New  species     ...     16 

Marchantia  Cagnii,  Golu. 
Marchaiitia  Sella>,  Golu. 
Marchantia  papyracas,  Gola. 
^letzgeria  ruwenzorensis,  Gola. 
Symphogyna  Sella>,  Golu. 
Syraphogyna  Aloysii  Sabaudi;e,  Gola. 
Anastrophyllnm  Gambaragara?,  Gola. 
Plagiochila  lajvifolia,  Gola. 
Plagiochila  Aloysii  Sabaudiae,  Gola. 
Lophocolea  Cagnii,  Gola. 
Bazzania  Roecatii,  Gola. 
Blepharostomnm  Cavallii,  Gola. 
Microlejeunea  magiiilobula,  Gola. 
Acrolejeunea  fuscescens,  Gola. 

399 


xA.ppendix  C. 

Hepaticae — nm/<l. 

Acrolejeunuii  lioccjitii,  Gola. 
Frullaiiia  Cavallii,  Gola. 

Lichenes  (Auct.  A.  Jatta). 

Species  collected    ...  ...     83 

New  species  ...      5  (var.  4) 

Usuea  arthroclada  Fee  v.  ruvidescens,  Jat/a. 

Parmelia  Piicalis,  Jaffa. 

Anaptychia  loieomela  Tre.  v.  soredica,  Jaffa. 

Caloplaca  citriiiella,  Jaffa. 

Pertiisaria  Roccatii,  Jaffa. 

Phlyctis  Ruwenzorensis,  Jaffa. 

Cladoiiia  squamosa  Hffm.  v.  macra,  Jaffa. 

Gyrophora  haplocarpa  Nyl.  v.  africaiia,  Jaffa. 

Lecidea  Cagiiii,  .laffa. 


Algae  (Auct.  G.  B.  Detoiii  et  A.  Forti). 


Species  collected :    Myxophycere 

ClorophycOc'B 
Bacillariacere 


...2  et  var.  1 

2 

35  et  34  var.  et  form 


New  varieties  :         Navicula  borealis,  Kw-fz. 
Var.  e.xilis,  Flcfoni  d  Forfi. 
Suriraya  ovalis,  Jlirl). 
Var.  euormis,  Dcfoni  rf  forfi. 

Fungi  (0.  Mattirolo). 
Species  collected     ...         ...     27 

New  genus  :     Aloysiella,  MatfiroJo  d  Saccardo. 

New  species  ;  Chsetomella  Cavalli,  Maffirolo  (SphseropsideiB). 

Aloysiella  ruwenzorensis,  Maffirolo  d  Saccardo  (Sphseriales). 
Hypoxylon  crassum,  Maffirolo  ef  Saccardo  (Sphferiales). 
Cladoderria  Roccati,  Maffirolo  (Thelephorefe). 
Favolaschia  Cagni,  Maffirolo  (Polyporese). 
Psylocybe  Sella>,  Maffirolo  d  Bresadola  (Agaricineae). 

400 


Botanical  List. 


SUMMARY. 


Total 

of  the 

collected 

Species. 

Total 

of  the 

Varieties. 

New 
Genera. 

New 
Species. 

New 
Varieties. 

Embryophyta  siphonogama  . . . 

93 

... 

18 

... 

Pteridophy ta  ... 

■24: 

... 

4 

Musci 

3S 

22 

Hepaticaj        

33 

16 

... 

Lichenes 

83 

5 

4 

AlgPe 

39 

35 

15 

O 

Fungi  ... 

27 

1 

6 

337 

35 

16 

71 

6 

401 


2  D 


MAGNETIC    OBSERVATIONS. 

NoTK. — Diiriiii;  tlie  expeilition  of  H.K.Ii.  to  KuuxMizori,  Coiiini.indur  Cagiii 
niulertook  the  magnetic  readings,  establishing  sttitioiis  at  eight  points: 

BujongoJo,     llianda,    Fori    Portal,    Kichionii,    BiniUya,    Knlelibc,     Port 
Florence,  Moniliasa. 

The  magnetic  instrument  used  I)}'  him  for  the  readings  was  modelled,  not  ijuite 
successfully,  on  the  French  "  Brunncr,"  and  of  the  small  size  suited  for 
travelling.  This  defective  apparatus  made  the  ol)Servati(jns  dittirult  and 
fatiguing. 

The  calculation  and  discussion  of  tiie  results  olitained  were  entrusted  to 
Prof.  L.  Palazzo,  Director  of  the  Central  Bureau  of  Meteorology,  in  ]{ome. 
This  specialist  was  fain  to  conclude  that,  in  order  to  derive  any  useful  data 
from  Cagni's  i-eadings,  he  would  have  to  rejjeat  the  readings  with  the  instr\iment 
in  question  and  with  another  more  accurate,  in  one  at  least  of  the  places  where 
Cagni  had  estalilishcd  magnetic  stations.  This  would  enalile  him  to  obtain  a  point 
of  reference  which  would  lie  useful  foi'  the  reduction  of  the  oliservations  made 
at  all  the  other  stations.  Fortunately  s>\ch  an  ariangement  is  now  rendered 
possible  by  the  circiunstance  that  Prof.  Palazzo,  who  left  in  July  charged  with 
a  scientific  mission  to  Zanziliai-,  proposes  to  land  on  the  way  at  Mombasa,  and 
there  take  magnetic  readings,  Mombasa  being  one  of  the  magnetic  stations 
included  in  the  itinerary  of  the  IJuwcnzdri  E.xpedition.  In  this  way  there  is 
reason  to  hope  that  sufficiently  correct  and  practical  results  may  lie  olitained 
from  Cagni's  magnetic  observations.  The  publication  of  these  observations  is 
thus  necessarily  delayed  till  I'idf.  Palazzo's  return  from  his  mission.  They  will 
then  form  the  subject  (if  a  separate  memoir,  which  will  be  pulilishcd  either  in 
the  Annals  of  the  K(iy.il  li\iliographic  Institute,  or  iii  those  nf  the  Central 
Meteorological  Bureau. 


403 


J    ABRUZZI 


a'C^EastGree 


Points  Pixed   by  observat 
Points  Fixed  by  calculation 


oFF'Portal  and  Entebbe  are  based   upon   barometrical  observations  taken 
nical  garden  oF  Entebbe,  and  near  the  residence oF  the  ColIectopoF  F^  Portal 


Route    oF   the    Expedition    oF    H,  R.  H.  the    Duke  oF  the   ABRUZZI 

FROM       MOMBASA-     TO        RUWENZORI 

May    -    August         190S 


J£l 


-<v         "^~-V_    EnteW..  . 
—^ f      ■     V  ■ 


Points  Fined    by  obeorvatu 
Point*  TiHsd  by  calculation  c 


IS  of  long  and  lat 
©na  onlyof  th«  coordinates 


Compiled  and  drawn  at  the  Hydrograph,  Inst  of  the  R'  Italian 
Navy,  undar  the  care  oF  the  Oiracton  Commendef  H  GIWOITO.  Genoa  I9i 


The  heights  of  F'Portat  *"■*  £"'•«>«  «'"°  ^^='^'^    "P""    baromctr-cal  obse^valiois  taken 
in  the  Botanical  garden  oF Entebbe  and  near  the  res.denceoF  the  Collectorof  f '  Fbrtal 


1 

ok 


jLat.  0° 20: 23"  North 
I  Long.aO'raVEastGreen" 

3S  =  1mile 


Steep   Incline 


THE   PEAKS,  PASSES  AND   GLACIERS  OF 

IB  IP"  ^T  iM  r^;  z  ©  m  u 

A  SKETCH-MAP  BASED  UPON  THE  OBSERVATIONS    TAKEN  BY  THE  EXPEDITION  Of  H.R.H  PRINCE  LOUIS  OF  SAVOY.  OUKE  OF  THE  ABflUZZI 

m   the   months  oF  June  and  July   1906 
Compiled  AND  dh*wn  ai  'he  Hyobocraphical   Institute  of  the  R'.  Itai  Naw,  under  the  care  of  the  Dibectoo,  Comm.  M  GIAVOTTO  -  Geno*  1906 


^.^5*4*^; 


,1  Lat.  0°  20: 23"  North 
JJOngoloUong.aO'rSA'EastGreen" 

58  inches  =  1  mile 


eps  hed 
n  feet 


GEOLOeKSAL   Sk»»oh- Map   Of  TMli;  CENTRAL  GROUP  OF 

Si  TU  ^3^  im  F?  ^  '©  IB  a 

by   A.  ROCCATI 


INDEX. 


Abnizzi,  Duke  of,  liis  associates,  29;  staiMs 
on  tlie  expedition,  32  ;  arrives  at  Entebbe, 
56  ;  leaves  for  RiiWi-nzori,  69  ;  ascends 
Mobuku  Glacier,  178  ;  scales  the  highest 
peaks  of  Buweuzori,  181-5,  186-9;  his 
work  on  the  central  group  of  peaks,  189 ; 
scales  Mt.  Speke,  239 ;  Mt.  Stanley  and 
numerous  passes,  243  seq.  ;  scales  the 
lolanda  Peak  of  Mt.  Gessi,  268. 

Albert  Edward,  Lake,  sighted  by  Stanley,  8; 
its  position  and  general  outline,  194  seq. 

Albert  Nyanza,  Lake,  its  basin  outlined,  194 
seq. 

Albert  Nyanza  explored  by  Gessi,  2. 

Alhertine  Valley,  105,  107,  194. 

Albertine  Depression,  194  seq. 

Alexandra  Nile,  Stanley's,  6. 

Alexandra  Peak,  109;  186,  200,  241,  215, 
scaled  by  H.R.H.,  181-5  ;  scaled  by  Sella 
and  Roccati.  248 ;  its  cornices,  225. 

Ankole,  Kingdom  of,  57. 

Aristotle,  his  "  Mountain  of  Silver,"  4. 

B. 

Bahinui  natives,  98,  99. 

Baker   Mt.    (Johnston's    Kiyanja),   153,   199, 

201,257. 
Baker,  Sir  S.,  names  the  "  Blue  Mountains," 

2,  242,  254. 
Bakonjo  tribe,  124,  125,  159. 
Baumann,    O.,   discovers   the  sources  of  the 

Kagera,    6 ;     his    "  Jlountains    of     tlie 

Moon,"  6. 
Behrens,    T.    T.,  liis  aliimetric   observations, 

221. 
Bihunga,  115  seq  ,  164,  262. 
Blue  Mountains,  the,  of  S.  Baker,  2. 
Botta,  E.,  photographer,  31,  142. 
Bottego  Peak,  238,  scaled  by  H.R.H.,  270. 
Broclierel,  J.,  porter,  30. 
Buaniba  canij),  132. 


Bujongolo  station,    132    seq.  ■.     return    fnn 

261    seq. 
Bujuku  Lake,  232,  264. 
Bujuku  Valley,   124,  126,  178,  203. 
Butagu  Valley,  10,  II,  204. 
Butanuka  village,  118,  163. 
Butiti  camp,  93. 
Buvuma  Island,  52. 
Byndia,  282. 


Cagni,  IT.,  topographer  and  magnetic  obser- 
ver, 29  ;  his  illness,  65  ;  rejoins  the 
espedition,  137,  163  ;  his  magnetic 
observations,  263. 

Cagni,  Mt.,  141,  202,  255,  256. 

Camp,  Nos.  I,  146  ;  II,  378  ;  III,  176  ;  IV, 
191,  192;  V,  i-35;  VI,  240;  IX,  266; 
X,  268  ;  XI,  275. 

Oastellani,  Dr.  A.,  discoverer  of  tlic  Sleeping 
Sickness  germ,  51,  55. 

Cavalli  Pass,  202,  241. 

Chawa  River,  ll!i. 

Climate  of  Ruwenzori,  26,  27  ;  of  Uganda, 
79,  80. 

Cuniiees,  a  characteristic'  feature  of  llie 
higher  ridges,  225. 

X). 

David,  J.  J.,  explores  Ruwenzori,  15. 

Dawe,  M.  T.,  his  botanical  expedition,  15. 

Dueru,  Lake,  105. 

Duwona  camp,  106. 

Duwoni  Peak,  13,  113,  123,  147,  178. 


Edward  Peak,  17,  132,  146,  201,  219,  250,  258. 
EkMia  Peak,  si'aled  by  II.R.IL,  186-9,  200, 

234. 
Emin  Pasha,  joins  Stulilmann's  espedition,  10. 


405 


Tnd 


c  X . 


Emin  Glacier,  241. 

Emin  Peak,  148,  199,  231  -leq. 

Entebbe,  capital  of  Uganda,  16  ;  rcaclieil  by 
tlie  expedition,  55,  56  ;  dejoription  of, 
58,  59;  iti.  meteorological  station,  217; 
return  of  llie  expedition  from,  282. 


Fauna  and  flora  of  Ruwenzori,  22S-30. 

Fislier,  A.  B.,  explores  Ruwenzori,  14,  15, 
100. 

Fort  Portal,  arriyaV  at,  97;  description  of, 
97  ;  route  to  Bujongolo,  100  secj.  ;  its 
position,  105  ;   return  from,  281,  282. 

FieshCeld,  D.  A\'.,  explores  Buwenzori,  17. 

Freshfield  Pass,  167,  202,  243,  255,  2.58. 

G. 

Gessi,  Mt.,  148,  201,  202,  238,  242,  259,  270  ; 

scaled  bj   II  E.H.,  268. 
Gessi,  R.,  explores  the  Albert  Jfjaiiza,  2. 
Glaciers   on  Buwenzori,  12,  134,  147;   their 

great  extent  during  the  Ice  Age,  223-4  ; 

their   present    state,  224 ;  tlieir  general 

character,  236,  237. 
Gnmt  Glacier,  240. 
Grauer,  R.,  ex]ilores  Euwcuzori,  17. 
Grauer  Rock  and  Glacier,  145,  201. 
Grauer's  Camp,  158,  256;  Pass,  257. 

H. 

HimaTallcT,  109. 

Hugues,  Prof.  L.,  on  Plolcmy's  "  Alonntains 
of  the  Moon,"  7 ;  and  .-Vpjiendix  A. 


Ibanda  camp,  112,  113  ;   the  general  rendez- 

Tous,  259,  265,  277. 
Igini,  I.,  the  cook,  31,  159. 
lolanda  Peak,  202,  238  ;    scaled  by    H.R  H., 

268;    Glacier,  216. 
Issango  river,  10. 


Johnston,  Sir  JI.,  explores  Ruwenzori,  12. 
Johnston  Peak,  201. 


Kagera  River,  discovery  of  iLs  sources,  6. 

Kampala,  Uganda,  59,  60. 

Kanjangungwe  Peak,  10. 

h'asongo  camp,  109. 

Kavirondo  Gulf,  46. 

Kavirondo  tribe,  44. 

Kenia,  Mt.,  its  discoTery,  4. 

Kichuehu  camp,  128,  129. 

Kigessi-Kissongo,  Lake,  203. 

Kilimandjaro,  Mt.,  its  discovery,  4. 

Kivu,  Lake,  194. 

Kiyanja  Peak  of  Johnston  (the  Semper  of 
Stuhlmann),  13,  140,  147,  152  ;  its 
glaciers,  166 ;  its  lakes  and  scenery, 
171,  172,  175. 

Kobokora,  Lake,  263. 

Ivraepeliu,  Mt.,  10,  202. 

Krapf,  discovers  Kenia  and  Kilimandjaro,  4. 

Kuruugu  torrent,  266,  274. 


Lugard,  Capt.,  founds  Fort  Portal,  97. 
Luigi  di  Savoii,  Mt.,  153,  190,  191,200,  202, 
251. 

M. 

Mahoma  river,  119. 

Manureggio  river,  275. 

Margherita  Peak,  109,  179  :  scaled  by  H.B.H., 

181-85,  2U0,  269;  its  cornices,  225. 
Marinus  of  Tyre,  quoted  by  Ptolemy,  4. 
Masai  tribe,  42. 
Mengo,  Uganda,  59. 
Migusi  Valley,  266,  267,  268. 
Missossi  ya  Mwesi,  Banmann's    "  Moimtains 

of  the  Moon,"  6. 
ilitiaua  camp,  90. 
Mobuku   Valley,   11,    12,  17,  100,    101  seq.; 

route   taken    by  most  of  the  explorers, 

21  ;  Glacier,  17,  143,  178  ;  River,  HI, 

120,  126. 
Moebius,  Mt.,  10,  200,  247. 
Molinelli,    Dr.    A.     C,    me  lical     attendant, 

29,  88. 
Mombasa,  railway  tenninus,  15,37;  history 

of,  3  t,  35. 


406 


Ind 


ex. 


Moon,     the     nioimtaiiit.    of,    Ptolemy's,    -l; 

Speke's,   5;   identiSed   by  St:ui!cv   with 

Ruwriizori,  5. 
Moore,  C.  S.,  explores  Eiiwenzori,  11,  12. 
Moure  Peak,  14(i,  15.5,  2(11,  26S. 
Mpango  Valley,  lufi. 

X. 

Nairobi  railway  station,  41,  42. 
Nainusha,  Lake,  191. 
Nakitawa  camp,  120. 
NapoleoTi  Gulf,  52. 
Nfumbiro  Mt.,  Speke's,  5. 
Ngeinwimbi  Peak,  10. 
Nile  Province,  .57. 
Korlh  Portal  Peaks,  2f>(j. 
Nyamwamba  Valley,  11. 

O. 
Oilier,  C,  Alpine  guide,  30. 


Petigax,  .1.,  .\lpine  guide,  30. 
Petigax,  L.,  porter,  30. 
Port  Alice  (Entebbe),  57. 
Port  Florence,  railway  terminus,  16,  37. 
Portal  Peaks,  148,  203. 

Ptolemy,  his  "  Mountains  of  the  Moon  " 
Tariously  identified,  5,  ti. 

«. 

iiebmann  discovers  Kenia  and  Kiliniandjaro, 
4. 

Rift  Valleys,  Kast  Africa,  194  spy. 

Roccati,  Dr.,  geologist  and  naturalist,  29, 
142,  190,  245  ;  his  geological  work,  2()3. 

Roccati  Pass,  202. 

Route  from  Entebbe  to  Fort  Portal,  70  seq., 
90 ;  from  Fort  Portal  to  Bujongolo,  100 
seq.  Route  followed  by  most  of  the 
explorers,  21. 

Rudolf  Province,  57. 

Rudolph  Lake,  194. 

Euisamba,  Lake,  8,  105,  195. 

Ruwenzori,  Mts.,  discovered  by  .Stanley,  1  ; 
identified  by  him  with  the  "  Mountains 
of  the  Moon,"  5  ;  variously  identified  by 
others,  7,  8  ;  explored  by  Stairs,  8  ;  by 
Stuhlmann,  10  ;  by  Scott  Elliot,  10  ; 
by  C.  S.  Moore,  11  ;  by  Fergusson, 
Bagge,  Doggett,  Vale,  Johnston,  Wylde, 


War.l,  David,  Freshfleld,  Mumm, 
Grauer,  Tegart,  Msddoi,  Woosnam, 
Wolhiston,  Dent,  Leggc,  and  Carruthcrs, 
14-19;  table  of  its  explorations  from 
1888  to  190(i,  20,  21  ;  its  highest  peaks, 
24,  179-85,  199  .vey. ;  its  glaciers  and 
passes,  202  ;  its  cornices,  225-27  ; 
climate  of,  27,  28,  227;  first  sight  of,  93  J 
its  main  features,  103  seq. ;  its  drainage 
areas,  195;  its  nomenclature,  195,  19t> ; 
its  position  and  general  trend,  199  ;  its 
watershed,  203  ;  its  river  basins,  203 ; 
its  ex])lorcrs  prior  to  II.R.  U.  204  seq. ; 
table  of  the  errors  made  in  the  identi- 
fication of  its  peaks,  218,  219  ;  compara- 
tive tables  of  heights  taken  by  various 
ob.i^ervers,  220,  221  ;  its  non-volcanic 
origin,  222  ;  its  snow  line,  227  ;  terrace 
formations  of  its  fluvial  valleys,  227,  228 ; 
its  flora  and  fauna,  228-30 ;  panoramic 
photographs  of  the  whole  range,  208, 
2(>9 ;  all  the  ascents  of  the  range  made 
by  the  expedition  tabulated,  278-80  ; 
return  of  the  expedit.'on,  281,  282. 

S. 

Savoia  Peak,  scaled   by  H,R  IL.  18fi-9;    its 

height,  200. 
Scott  Elliot  explores  Ruwenzori,  10,  11. 
Scott  Elliot  Pass,  176,  202,  232,  2.39,  242,  264. 
Sella  v.,  photograplier,  29,  88,  142,  190,  245. 
Sella  Peak,  202,  251,  2.52. 
Seuiliki   river,    the   Issango  of    Emin  Pasha, 

10,  195,  204,  250,  270. 
Semper  Peak,  10,  13,  147,  152,  201. 
Sosse  Islands,  Lake  Victoria,  55. 
Sibyl  steamer  on  Lake  Victoria,  46,  282. 
Sleeping  Sickness  in  Uganda,  52,  53. 
Snow  line  of  Ruwenzori,  227. 
South  Portal  Peak,  255. 
Spekc  Glacier,  235. 
Spekc,    Mt.,    109,    148,    199,    201,    231    .seq; 

sealed     by    II.R.H.,    239   ;       its    rocky 

monolith.  266,  274. 
Stairs,  Lt.,  explores  Ru.venzjri,  8. 
Stairs  Peak,  202  ;  scaled  by  H.R.H.,  2.55,  258. 
Stanley,    H.    M.,    discovers    Ruwenzori,    1  ; 

identifies  it  with  the  "  Mountains  of  the 

Moon,"  5. 


407 


Index. 


Stanley,  Mt.,  110,  148,  200;  includes  tlie 
highest  peaks:  Margherita,  Alexandra, 
Elena  and  Savoia,  200. 

Stuhlmann,  F.,  explores  Runenzori,  10. 

Stuhlmann  Pass,  202,  232,  2-12. 

Siialuli  natives,  82. 


Table  of  Ruweiizori  explorers  prior  to 
H.R.II.,  dates,  heights,  and  routes,  20, 
21 ;  table  of  all  the  Ruweuzori  heights 
ascended  by  the  expedition,  278-80. 

Table  showing  the  errors  made  by  various 
explorers  in  identifying  the  peaks, 
218,  219. 

Tables,  comparatiTe,  of  heights  taken  by 
various  explorers,  220,  221. 

Tanganika,  Lake,  194. 

Terrace  iorniations  of  the  Ruwcnzori  river 
valleys,  227,  228. 

Thomson,  Jit.,  109  ;  glacier,  200. 

Toro,  Kingdom  of,  57. 

U. 

Uganda  wasted  by  the  Sleeping  Sickness,  53  ; 
extent  of,  57,  58;  its  Kabaka  (King), 
(31 ;  constitution  of,  01  ;  former  misrule, 

02,  03  ;  spread  of  Christianity  and  Islam, 

03,  04  ;  natives  of,  74-70,  80-82. 


Uniberto  Peik,  202  ;   sealed  by  H.R.H.,  242  ; 

glacier,    241,  242. 
Unyoro,  Kini^dom  of,  57. 


Victoria  Nyanza,  railway  to,  10,  37,  3S,  39. 
Vittorio    Emanuele    Peak,   201,     238,   239 ; 
scaled  by  H.K.H.,243,  217. 

W. 

Waigga    glacier,  266. 

Wa-Kikuyu,  tribe,  42. 

Weismann  Peak,  10,  202,  253. 

Wimi  Valley,  11,  107,  204. 

Winifred,  steamer  on  Lake  Victoria,  46. 

Winspeare,  E.,  topograplier,  29,  33  ;  returns 

to  Europe,  36. 
WoUaston,   A.   F.  R.,  and    U.   13.  Woosuam 

explore  Ruwenzori,  17,  18,  19. 
Wolhiston  Peak,  140,  201,  256,  257. 
Wylde,  W.  II.,  explores  Kuwenzori,  14. 


Yeria   Valley,  11,  204. 
Yolanda,  see  lolanda. 


d' 


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